Scottie-GNZ

Does the brake m/c resorvoir need to be at the highest point in the braking system? E.g., if something like a line-loc is inserted in the brake lines but ended up being above the resorvoir, would that cause a problem? Seems like since the brake system is not pressurized until you depress the pedal that the fluid in the line-loc could flow back to the m/c possibly causing air pockets.

The term V8 is so loosely used that the uninformed thinks it means instant power and speed. A V8 is not a V8 is not a V8 and there are so many variations of a "Chevy V8" it makes your head spin. There are Chevy V8s that in a Z would have a tough time beating a stock NA L6. Do not swap in "a V8" just to have a V8 if you are after performance. Learn which V8 models have performance built-in so you do not spend a ton of dough just to get it to perform decent or wonder why a lightly-modded L28ET beats the pants off of it. As for your specific question, it is best answered if you state your performance goal, budget and mechanical skills. No slight intended, but since you are on this forum, a stock L28ET in a 79 280ZX is not a quick car by ANY measure. Any decent performance V8 will outperform it but do you have the skill to pull off the V8 swap? If you have the budget to add the right mods to the L28ET then things get interesting. Bottom-line is, there is no single answer w/o a clearer question and answering some other questions first. Whatever you do, do not buy a "cheap" V8 because that is all you can afford. The price of the engine is the tip of the iceberg so if you are on a budget go with the L28ET and research this forum for low-$ mods. If yoiu have the $$$ and skill to do the V8, you have come to the right place. Do some research and learn which engines are the best choice and find a member who has already pulled it off and make him your next best buddy. Good luck.

Some of the straightline traction problems might have to do with tire you are using, i.e., a 17" tire with little sidewall and what it has is super stiff. Willing to bet a 235/60-15 DR would have better grip under that specific circumstance. Anyway, I know exactly what you are experiencing and why my rear tire is the biggest Nitto DR I can fit. It is also why I preach to those who dream about 400-700hp in a street Z that they have no idea what they are getting into. Just need to undertstand it and respect it. You simply do not instictively hit the throttle, you plan and modulate it unless you think smoking tires and going sideways is cool. trust me, it is not, but then again I am an old fart

For sure the LSDs are 12mm.

I gave up trying to find that metric adaptor and ended up cutting off the fitting and using a 3/16" compression fitting. My hope was to be able to bypass the line-loc in case of emergency and put the brake line back stock w/o having to reflare the line. Now the flaring kit will have to be part of the road toolkit. Thanks everyone.

Either hope that 240Z Turbo sees this post and chime in or contact him directly. He was running a modified JATCO down to 11.1, I believe, and would have gone quicker except for some convertor problems. He switched to a P-Glide and went 10.60s 1st time out. I am sure he will have good JATCO feedback for you from his experience.

I assume you are referring to this: 10mmx1.0mm male to 1/8" NPT female I will give them a call also but I believe that is the opposite of what I am looking for. That looks like it would allow you to connect a 1/8 NPT male to a 10mmx1.0mm female. I need to connect a 10mmx1.0mm male to a 1/8" NPT female. They might be able to source one or I might have it backwards.

Jeff, I will give Amazon a call tomorrow followed by Maryland Metric. I am willing to bet MM has what I want but my head hurts trying to find anything on their webpage. Mark, I actually have metric to AN but it would also require a AN to pipe and I am trying to not make this look like a Rube Goldberg contraption. What I am doing is plumbing in a line-loc and at the outlet of the line-loc I am tee-ing in a hydraulically-operated throttle stop for limiting RPM on spoolup. The more direct adaptors I use, the less klutzy it will look. : Don't ask. You will just have to see it

Anyone know a good source for metric brake adaptors or better yet, have one of what I am looking for? I want to go from a male 10x1.0, inveterted flare to a female 1/8 pipe so I need a fitting that will have a female end to accept the 10x1.0, inverted flare and male 1/8 pipe on the other end. Every place I see selling adaptors seem to only have male-male.

I agree that the compressor will be more accurate. OTOH, not sure if it makes that big a difference as you will set the adjustment not based on the reading at the compressor but what you see on the boost gauge which should come from the after the TB.

IMHO, if you are looking to make less than 400hp you do not need custom manifolds. What I would recommend is manifold that moves the turbo forward that would give more even cyliner flow into the turbo and allow you run a full T04 with room for a good DP. A simple log-style manifold made from weld-els would do it. I have discussed this with a buddy of mine and he could make such a manifold with the correct flanges and supply it with a nice DP, IF THERE WAS INTEREST.

Hey, you lost? :D Tranny is out again but I am targeting the SEMCC at Reynolds for its track debut.

jgkurz, same car. Name is John Lindsay and he is from Idaho. Funny thing about how quiet it can be is that I usually cannot hear my car doing a burnout and running down the track because of the noise from the opponent. John K, funny thing about the "cost" of the Turbo Buick setup is that in the long run it is probably less costly. It typically has a higher entry fee but I imagine about the same as a LS1/T-56. However, with little or no investment, just tuning and race gas, you can go to the track, turn the wick up and gain 60-75hp!

Note that he is limiting his stall speed at the line to 3000 RPMs. That combined with the automatic helps reduce breakage. He pushes his engine to higher revs so he can run a little stiffer gear. Because I had a stronger rear I was able to launch with a much higher RPM, sometimes flashing to 4800 , but limited my RPMs to about 5700. My shortblock is bone stock except for hyper pistons (some would argue that makes it weaker ..) and ARP rod bolts. Like John, we have spent lots of time tuning to get the most out of the least. And, like me, John drives his car 100s of miles to race it.

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=211282#post211282

In case no else said it, "WELCOME BACK".

http://www.gnspyder.com/

Set the FP to 37# with the vacuum line off and I like to cap the open with my finger to keep the idle "normal". Once you reconnect the line, vacuum will drop the pressure a bit and that is OK. If you lightlyress the accelerator and bring the boost gauge up to "0", the FP should be 37#.

You can go as quick as you want with the R200 if you have the HP. The question is how are hard do you want to launch the car off the line. 1FastZ will be the first to admit he launched softly to not break the rear-end and you will break axles (halfshafts and stubs) before you break the diff. I think his 60' was in the low-1.60s.

Hmm, interesting. Although I would not go so far as to say a stroker is a waste, I thought I was the only one who thought it was not necessary. Unless you have an unlimited budget, the focus should be on the bolt-ons as that is where you get HP on a turbo engine, not from the internals. if you are going for 350+, forged pistons, headwork, mild turbo cam not "race" cam like Bleach said. You then put all your focus on the right combination of parts especially the engine management, I/C and turbo. And, remember, a turbo has 4 major components that can have an effect on how the car performs. Choose them wisely. With the right combination of bolt-ons, careful tuning and the required octane, you would be surprised how much boost you can run. The way I look at it, a 3.1 buys you 10% displacement which in theory will buy you 10% increase in HP. I can get the equivalent with careful tuning and 2-3psi more boost that cost me nothing. I say save the money for the stroker and contact the Buick turbo community about adapting one of their alcohol injection setup to work on the L28ET. With that you run 23psi with 93-octane. You have not lived until you experience a well tuned turbo engine at 23psi or more. Now, all the 3.1 turbo strokers that have been completely trouble-free, raise your hands. Driftin, while your idea is not "normal", it has been done. See 240Z Turbo.

HORN! No need no steenkeen horn! One look in the rear view mirror at that mass of aluminum comeup on you should scare you out of the way There sure is going to be a lot of shiny stuff to ogle at the next SEZM.

10 thumbs up!

I attended this event this past weekend but it was rained out and rescheduled for 10/9 and 10/10. I cannot return and have 2 sets of reserved tickets for sale on eBay. The 2 sets of tickets are for Sat and Sun and have a total face value of $218. They are right at the starting line. I am selling the 2 sets of tickets for $145 (Buy-It-Now) and that price includes USPS Priority mail to get them to you ASAP. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=2272181038

Awesome car. BTW, that's not just a Geo Metro with a Buick Turbo stuffed in it. It is a tube chassis car that has been lengthened slightly and the body has been chopped slightly. He still has not tapped the full potential of that engine. He could easily pull another 75hp out of that setup.

If you are doing 3" mandrel, I would not be concerned about those bends. That exhaust was on the Z until it was laid to rest and took the car to the times you see in my sig which equates to about 520 at the wheels. Unless you are putting out more HP than that, do not get caught up in splitting hairs and worrying about things like not having a 3" DP, too many bends in the exhaust or I/C plumbing, etc. Focus on tuning and tuning to run as much boost as possible w/o detonation. There is lots more to gain from careful tuning than things that too many people worry about.