Scottie-GNZ

6-pt, chromoly, weld-in rollbar done by the same shop who did Z-Gad's car. Awesome work!

Expect to pay about $150/wheel + shipping both to/from. Unless you are just hung up on swastikas, it is not worth it, IMO. When you run a true slick you do not necessarily need a very wide tire so the Phoenix 26x6-15 might fit just fine. Phoenix recommends a 7" rim. HOWEVER, keep in mind that slicks are bias-ply and you SHOULD run a bias-ply front tire also. IMHO, not worth it either. Been There, Done That. Go to the Mustang boards and get a pair of used 15x7 or 15x7 Draglites and buy a pair of 235/60-15 MT DRs. I am running 255/50-16s on 16x7.5 Z32 wheels and they hook like mad when you get them heated up. Already have a 1.51 60' w/o trying as I was focused on other problems the car was having. DRs have come a long way and these are as close to a slick as it gets. You do not have to deal with top-end stability issues, or driving in rain or leaks and punctures and most of all, changing tires when goint to the track.

Before you make any upgrades, how much HP did it make on the dyno or how much were you expecting if it was not dynoed? 11.30 @ 121.97 is 390rwhp by my calculator.

Sorry. Should have said "what was done". Been in the car for a while. The finished product is a stock RX7 suspension with a C4 diff and TII CVs. - The RX7 diff and rear cover was removed - The C4 rear cover was narrowed - The C4 diff stubs (u-joints) were modded to add with an adaptor to allow bolting up to stock TII CVs - Simple front mount was made See pics which include the narrowed cover, the diff in place with the stock diff stubs, the modded diff stubs, the finished product installed. Car retains the great ride and handling of the stock RX7 suspension and has already clicked off a 1.51 60' on DRs without really trying hard. With the 3.07 ratio, recorded 33mpg on a stint from Reynolds, GA where construction limited speed to an average of 60-65mph. HTH,

If you are free check it out. The race coverage is usually lousy with them trying to coverage 2 days action in less than 30 mins but still worth watching. The Titan Pro-Mod went 6.41 @ 217+!!! and a FWD car broke 200mph trapspeed.

I am a diehard Porsche fanatic but too many Porsche owners are full of themselves and truly believe their cars are invincible/unbeatable. Now, if the 914-V8 owners made the swap after driving their 4-cyls, you can certainly understand how they "Feel" about the car's performance. OTOH, there are a lot of V8 Zs out there who believe just because they have a "V8" their car is fast. If one of those V8 914s run up against a Z with a 305 or stock 5.0, et al, you can understand where the belief comes from.

That's what I am doing in my RX7.

A quick and dirty formula for estimating how much HP an inj can support is as follows: (inj cc / 7) * # of cyls = HP @ 80% DC In the case of the 370cc injs in a 6-cyl, that is 317+hp, so he is not out of inj, IMO. First thing I would do is "hot-wire" the pump because if you using the stock pump wiring, you are lucky if you are getting anymore than 11-12V at the pump. Run a 10G wire from the batt to the pump through a relay. Run a 10G wire from the pump to ground. Use the original pump + wire to trigger the relay. Next thing is as someone else suggested, put a tee after the FPR and get a FP gauge on a long enough hose so you see the FP as the turbo is into boost. Nothing worse than not having enough fule volume or pressure under boost. Once you are assured the fuel delivery system is correct, then "fiddle" with the AFM, else you will be making adjustments at the AFM that will mask a fuel problem.

Do not show up at the next SEZ without it!!!!

Greg, glad to see you are still trying to finish that Z. Show us some of the progress. Still running the SII GN?

I think what Yo said was overlooked or misundertood. If he is referring to "spool up" as in spooling up the turbo at the starting line for a launch, then he is absolutely correct. That is a well known drag racing trick. Ever seen/heard some of the big HP turbo cars doing all that popping and farting at the starting line before a launch? What is happening (in most cases) is that the timing is being drastically retarded and the fuel is being leaned out to help spool the turbo quicker because there is not sufficient exhaust flow needed for those big turbos. The chip I use, Translator +, has the same feature. It senses the TPS open but 0 MPH and assumes the turbo is being spooled at the starting line and retards the timing and leans out the fuel mixture to help speed the spool up. Once it senses the car moving, it reverts to "normal" settings. You obviously do not want to do that for very long! As for retarded timing = less power, I agree, BUT.... you do want to retard the timing as boost increases so you can have the capability of running more boost. More boost will always make more power than more timing. As for the topic of the post, the problem is not the turbo. Several possible reasons have already been touched on, such as rich mixture at low RPMs/boost, exhaust leak between the head and turbo. If the problem is not resolved, it could actually be worse with a bigger turbo, especially if anything is done for more power on the turbine side.

That is the person to contact to spec and buy your hybrid turbo. However, the stock turbo should have no lag so you want to look into what is causing that. Best guess is that the engine is running too rich at low boost. Need to address that before you install a bigger turbo.

I take that as a compliment. BTW, just realized I put this in the wrong forum so could someone please move it. Thanks.

Here are some cool pics I found buried on my computer.

http://media2.big-boys.com/bbmedia/japtalentshow.jpg

I look into my crystal ball and see an *** whupping at the next SEZ. Mine....and everybody else's.

Here are some smilies that would get a lot of use here.

When that things comes on full boost, seems everything else is going in reverse. GAWD, I've got to get mine back on the road soon.

Let me start off by saying that if someone else on this board is attempting to make and sell one, I will not "compete" with them. In addition to that, I am just a regular guy who designed the DP but had it professional constructed by several shops, both 200 miles away (CAD/CNC for the flanges and jig/SS pipe, bung/mandrel bending/TIG-welding/polishing by another shop). Way too much hassle for no profit so the price would definitely be higher. SS is expensive and mandrel benders are far and few between. I wanted a single pipe with the only welds being the flanges and bung. SS cost is about the same as mild-steel + quality ceramic-coating. I know because the original I did for myself in the pic was done that way. The c-coater was another shop 100 miles in the other direction :D I will take SS/TIG over mild-steel/coated anyday for a DP. No slight on anyone who can only afford just mild-steel but the extreme heat combined with condensation from the exhaust is a mild-steel killer. My DP was designed to fit 1st-gens with the Nissan 5-spd. There are fitment issues with the T5 and it does not fit the 280ZXT.

Very nice! Subtle but yet aggressive look.

I usually do not post when I see people building cars specifically to do street racing but I will leave my opinions out of this. You did not say how quick you want the car to be and considering the weight of the completed swap (my guess is 3600lbs w/driver) anything but a healthy V-8 will be no quicker than the run-of-mill street car. You might consider investing in fixing the engine and making a tidy profit from a resale and going with a lightweight S30 instead. A 12.50 car is average these days on the street and your 3600lb Z31 would require about 365+ at the wheels while a 2800lb 240Z would require 285. If you are going SBF, forget the average 5.0L as it will need lots of steroids to get your 365rwhp. IOW, be prepared to dump $$$ in the engine. Anyway, I remember seeing one so search this forum and do a Google with lots of search combinations.

I wo'nt bother to do the math since in either case it is amazing but the F1 engines might top that. New F1 regs say the engine must last for practice, 2 qualifying sessions and the race for 2 consecutive race weekends. Probably much less hours than NASCAR but those 3.0L N/As are being revved to 18-19,000RPMs and probably 1000s of gears changes during that span. Like I said, in both cases, simply amazing. Upcoming rules will change the engine config from 3.0L V-10s to 2.4L V-8s and rumor has it some of the engines are already seeing upwards of 20,000RPMs on the dyno. Did I change the subject? Sure did because this topic is headed down an endless path :D

Sounds like an awful lot of trouble and expense just to have matching size studs. No one is going to notice the difference and it is not like the 12mm studs (compared to 13mm) are weak. I have been running 12mm studs on all my cars and with Weld Draglites/slicks on the rear of the Z not being hub-centric.