Scottie-GNZ

JWT does not need the car to fix the problem. They need to reprogram the chip. Assuming the FP is unchanged, then the only thing you added that might have an effect is the DP. Like headers on a N/A, a more efficient DP could cause the engine to run leaner because of the more efficient scavenging and less backpressure. What you are experiencing in 3rd vs 1st/2nd is normal. The engine is under more load in 3rd. You need to give JWT a detailed description of exactly what the car is doing and let them reprogram accordingly. Hopefully this is a part of the service you paid for. That is how it works with systems like that. You have to go back to the chip burner every time you make a change on the fly. With programmable you make the changes accordingly on the fly. One of the reasons I like the SDS so much is because of the "WHAT IF?" knob (Rich/Lean knob to SDSers ) where you would simply richen or lean the mixture when you have a problem and based on the engine reacts to the knob, you adjust the fuel or timing map accordingly. I know that does not help you much, but you are completely reliant on the chip burner to guesstimate what your engine will do. BTW, I know you say you are running 20* timing but that is really a meaningless number when you are in boost. What matters is what JWT put in for full advance and retard as boost increases. Do not get frustrated, just work with them to reprogram based on the problems you are having.

So let me see if I have this correct. You have aftermarket injs that are supposed to be set at 43psi. JWT says it is OK to run them at 37psi and you are running lean on boost. Hmmm. You realize that running those 420s at 37# makes them more like 390 or less and somewhat unpredictable? So, you up the FP and the boost problem improves (the idle is understandable as Jeff said). I wonder why they told you that and what other compromises did they make in that program. I would stop giving things a try such gapping plugs at .025, fiddling with static timing without knowing how that affects the timing map they built, etc, etc. Let them correct the fueling for the injectors you bought at the FP the injs were designed to run.

GSL392. That is the one you want and yes, the inlet/outlet are amazingly tiny, but I ran that pump to close to 500rwhp.

Did not see a response to my question about the injs.

IMHO, you have all the right key components (hybrid turbo, Spearco and TEC3) to make 350-400hp w/o opening the engine. I think the stock cam is fine for that HP and even though the porting would help, I would spend the money elsewhere. I would invest it a WB02 and depending on how the car is to used, sticky tires. No point in having all those components on the engine and not have it properly tuned. No point in having 350-400hp and not be able to ut it to the ground. Others will think differently but I believe in maximizing what you have before upgrading and 350hp is not the limit of your setup unless you are trying to do this on pump gas.

Interesting post which I am sure will stir up a lot of debate and what it will really come down to is one's preference. However, nothing irks me more than a general categorization of turbo cars. Cyrus should have said "My 2JZ setup" not I6 turbo, in general. I say this because of some of the statements he made about his setup such as "it's slow building power", "The lag of the I6 even with sequential turbos is about 1.3 seconds", "The I6 has torque only when RPMS are high", "The I6 runs on 100 octane". I was also a little surprised by the "The I6 rough" statement as my experience with that engine is that it is silky smooth. This one could be debated until the cows come home and all most will be doing is expressing their preference. At least Cyrus has 1st-hand experience with both to express his results. Having buit 2 V8 Zs, I also have my preferences but boy, what I could do with an LS7 . Come to think of it, I would love to tweak a 2JZ myself.

No immediate plans to but I will look into it. I do not just weld these up in my backyard and it is a royal PITA having the flange CNC'd, another shop doing the mandrel bending and another shop doing the tig welding in a jig. I am sure Jeffp can testify to that and I was basically doing the turboZ folks a favor.

Are those 420cc injs aftermarket like RC? Most aftermarket injs should be set to ~43# at idle/line off and if so, that might be the problem. Might want to double check that with the manufacturer. Dont worry about how it idles for now, make sure it pulls under load w/o detonation and when it does, you will need to have it remapped for idle.

The main problem with 500, 600hp is in your right foot and the grey matter between your ears. Understand what you have under the hood, RESPECT it and resist the urge to "showoff". Oh yeah, a pair of really sticky rear tires also helps Somewhere around 520rwhp and I use fat drag radials as my everyday rear tire. Anything else is instant wheelspin or worse, a spinout. With such power at your command, the appropriate chassis, suspension and brake upgrades are a must. With those and your discretion you have a really fun and suprisingly streetable car. BTW, my car is turbo and if the 500-600rwhp requires big valve heads and a rumpity-rumpity cam, then in-town driveability will not be so enjoyable.

This car had better be at the Sept SEZ. No excuses!

Wolves? I can buy a 12.27 @ 114 making it a very hot NA setup but a 1.2 60' on street radials is not only not believable, it is impossible to do. 1.2 60' are made by 8-sec cars. Either a typo or the track timer was broken putting the entire timeslip in question. Good suggestion Richard.

Hey Jersey, thanks. I am now in the database but ironically I have only the 3rd quickest 60' because of that stunning 1.20 from the NA 280ZX and a race car. Maybe I am cixelsyd and it actually says 2.10 for an NA 280ZX on street radials. Seems logical.

A 1.2 60' on street radials? Dang, what am I doing wrong. Sniff, sniff, what's that I smell? Trying to upload mine but it wo'nt let me without a timeslip. Tried scanning the timeslip but the ink is too light to make a legible copy.

Nice video. Probably the best video of Pike's Peak competition is one entitled "Climb Dance". It is Ari Vatanen driving a Peugeot "Killer B" rally car in '88. I have watched it 1000 times and cringe every time. This clip won several awards. Definitely worth chasing down and simply too big for me to host it.

7-sec' date=' HARUMPH!, GN-powered. [img']http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/opel-gt.jpg[/img]

Welcome to the club!

Yes they are.

Congrats on a great find. Mine had a 302SBC and a late 914 tranny which rendered 1st gear useless. I used a Kennedy Engineered Products conversion kit and things like mounts, cooling, etc were home-fabbed. The Renegade kit should be more complete and with that tranny you can romp on it hard. I hope the owner went with a small high-revving engine instead of a high-torque monster. Guaranteed that car will scare you silly

Hey, that's F1. Those headers are made from unobtanium.

Nice numbers!!!

Unless I am missing something or there is something different about your setup and intended use, this sounds wrong. A line-loc, as used for drag racing, is designed to be used on the front brakes. It can be used on the rear brakes, like I am doing, but it must be installed backwards and a different technique used for the burnout.

TTT Z-Gad has one of these in his turbo 240Z and the neat thing is that he was able to offset it slightly to one side to solve the fan clearance issue with the L28s. BTW, that is the fan setup you see in my sig.

CONGRATS! So close, but do not beat yourself up over not getting it since you know the car is capable. Just keep tuning and getting more seat time, the 2 best ways to go quicker.

It would seem that way but not reaaly. When I find a drivetrain with better price/performance/economy/lightweight/durability, I will try it. However, my 2 previous hybrid Zs were Chevy 350 SBCs. My other hybrids, including some built before many of you were born, include: VW Bug/140hp Corvair, MGB/3.8L N/A Buick, Vega GT/215ci Buick, 914/Chevy 302 and some Sumbeam Tigers. Just tore my shortblock apart after 5yrs, 4mos and 500+ passes because some coolant got into the crankcase from the blown head gaskets and scored a couple of main bearings. Hard to find anoher package that can top that.