Scottie-GNZ

BLKMGK, I know SupraTTs are FAST and despite how QUICK my car is (note the distinction), I would never mess with one on the top-end. However, that 70 to 115mph time is a little hard to swallow for anything but a 500+rwhp engine. That time might be because it was done on a dyno as opposed to on the road/track. For a comparison, I pulled out the datalog for the run I had against that SupraTT and my time was 5.8. On that run, the car died big time on the top-end and maybe that cost me .2, but still would have been a far cry from a modded SupraTT. Despite me questioning the time, I am not sure I would want a piece of you from 100mph on up

Did you see the inj duty cycle when it was detonating? Certainly could be the timing, but you want to make sure the DC was not out of whack.

Tony, not sure what you consider a good price for an NPR, but see my post in the Buy/Sell section.

Hey Ron, did my post help?

Not sure about the exact weight, but with some serious searching on the web you should be able to find it. I would say even if the worse case was that the weight is equal to the L6, the short V-6 should end up behind the front wheels for an improvement in weight distribution. Look at the position of the L6. There is almost 2 cyls ahead of the front wheels. Oh yeah. Welcome aboard!

Keep in mind that there are people who look at a wicked V-8 Z and ask the same question. If you look beyond the fact that it is an old Celica and study the detail and specs, it is one hell of a ride.

OH YEAH!! Another Central Florida bad boy in the making.

Dan, glad I am not the only one who got no response from them.

Nicely done.

BLKMGK, I love that pushlok stuff. I am using it for my tranny cooler lines and for some short connections between my fuel pump, filter and braided feed line. Once you push that fitting on, the only way to get it off is to cut the hose. If you get it, use Parker or Aeroquip. I do not know the 200R4 line pressures but I would guess, especially with the shift kit that it is astrononmical (150-200#). For my fuel, I run 42# static FP plus 24# boost. The RX-7 we are building is being done entirely with pushlok. It will have 550hp and we expect to run 10.0. BTW, it comes in different colors too.

Since this is a hybrid, it is almost certain that the problem is the powertrain angles. Since you probably do not want to mess with the angle of the engine/trans, focus on changing the angle of the nose of the diff. Decel vibration usually means the nose of the diff is too low relative to angle of the tranny, so the diff nose needs to raised. However, don't go raising it without knowing the relationship of the 2 angles since sometimes it only takes 1* change to correct it.

Ron, I do not think anyone can build you ignition maps that will be just right for your setup. I suggest you follow my guideline to establish a baseline, then adjust from there. Here goes. VERY IMPORTANT, to properly set up the ignition for boost, you have to build 2 maps, IGN and IGN RET/MANPRESS. IGN sets the initial timing and advance and IGN RET/MANPRESS (ignition retard based on manifold pressure) retards timing based on boost. The combination of the values of the 2 maps is the total ignition. First, build a IGN map with 20*BTDC at idle and ramp it up to 34* at 3400RPMs (full advance), then take that 34* value all the way to redline. Next build an IGN RET map that starts to retard the timing at say 2-3# boost and ramp it up to retard 10* at 15# boost so that the total timing is 24* at 15# boost. Since you are just about guaranteed to be running over 3400RPMs at 15# boost, you would then have 34* advance minus 10* retard for a total of 24* @ 15#. If you have a 2-bar MAP sensor, that is as far as you can go and any boost beyond 15# will have 24* timing. If you have a 3-bar sensor, continue pulling timing at 1* / 1# which would net a total timing of 19* at 20# boost. Remember, this is a baseline and you need to monitor and tune from that point, especially if you intend to run 20# on pump gas. Remember Morgan? He started with that baseline and he ended up adding more timing and the car responded well. Hope I did not make it confusing. This is for all who will eventually be programming their SDS. I am intentionally not providing a full map because I think it is a good idea to understand the principle so you can build your own and more important, know how and why adjustments need to be made. Hope I am not coming across as the "school-mom" . As for the FP, I am not sure so you might want to ask on a RX-7 board or maybe BLKMGK knows. Typically, OEMs are set at 36# and aftermarkets at 43#.

Dan you picked up 36rwhp between the 13.2 and last night and I lost almost double that . Did you leave early?

My track follows the NHRA rules but do not enforce all the rules like they should. They are strict about not racing in shorts, helmets for quicker than 12.99 and jackets and a cage for quicker than 11.99. They have never questioned me or the legion of racers we all know are running welded rears and a 300ZXT went high-9s with the OEM IRS. He switched because of breakage. Off the top of my head, here is what I recall. A relocated battery must be in a sealed metal or special plastic box. It must have a master cutoff switch with the switch itself outside the car and clearly marked. A fuel can have a max capacity of 16-gals and must have a firewall of (I believe .032 aluminum and .024 steel) to seal the interior from the cell. The top of the cell must not be above the tires. HTH

Here are the specs as listed on the Buick Forum. A lot of it is turbobuick-speak, so I threw in some explanations in parens. He thinks it weighs 2800# with driver but that sounds heavy,although a Ford 9" does add weight. 1972 Toyota Celica with a 87 TR drive train. PTE 44 turbo @ 20psi on pump gas. Jay Jackson’s 62 mm throttle body, ported and polished plenum and intercooler. Solid MAF pipe, K&N Filter. Blue top injs (36#). Hot wired 255 L/hr Holley inline FP., AFR. AC CR43’s. Type II coil pack and module. 8.5 Magnecor’s. Hand made TH style DP, 3” exhaust split to two 2 ½ inch Magnaflows. Built 200 4R tranny, B&M cooler, stock D5 converter (2400 RPMS), B&M Megashifter. Chopped Ford 9” four link setup @3:25 posi rear with a 300 ZX disk brake setup. Air bags, Bilstein Rally shocks. 85 Supra 57 mm piston 10” vented rotor front brake setup. Hurst Roll control. Tokico race struts, heavy duty coils. Nissan 300 ZX 15/16 master cylinder. Dunlop SP 5000 205/50ZR 15’s, Ford power steering rack. DirectScan (datalogger), Caspers Knock gauge, Autometer 30/30 boost/vacuum gauge, Autometer tranny temp gauge. Jay C’s 94, Red’s 100, Thrasher 92, and my own chips

Great thread. The basic principles of an internal combustion engine does not change whether it is NA or forced-induction. How much mass can you pack in the combustion chamber at compression? The beauty of forced induction is that you have compression in the turbo/s-charger, then that compresed mass in forced into the cylinder and compressed. Think about the actal compression ratio at that point! Can you say detonation, if you are not careful? BANG...and people are amazed that a forced induction engine can make torque equal to an NA twice its size.

Turns out that car belongs to someone on the Turbobuicks forums. It is a trick piece and I will post the details soon. I think anyone here can appreciate a setup like that.

Interesting design. I wonder if he has a percolation problem? MOF, I am surprised the carbs have not melted considering how close they are to the headers which are not even coated. Not meaning to be picky, just wondering out loud.

Rick, excellent point on compliance and dealing with square edges and expansion joints. As I am dialing in the Vette IRS, I believe using poly bushings in the suspension links was a mistake and I will probably switch to new OEM rubber bushings. Another $35. Damn, this project is getting expensive I am running 160#, 12" rear springs, but as Rick pointed out, a longer spring allows for a softer spring. Besides, I need them for the 1320 and my old bones like a plusher ride.

Click on the "Z" link in the upper left hand corner and look at the beautiful hybrid Zs. WOW!!!

What a sleeper

How much more boost and timing are you running over stock? Even if you ran the same amount of boost, doing it through a more efficient I/C and with better fueling and timing, the HP increase is surprising. Case in point, the GN engine is rated at 247hp at 12psi boost. With a more efficient I/C, more agressive fueling and timing, a bigger turbo and race gas, I can double the boost and make 420+rwhp and 500+lb/ft of torque. Just control detonation!

The Supra I was thinking of was yellow but it was campaigned by Dave Schardt(sp?). He gave up and runs a competitive 911.

Come to think of it, who cares about flywheel HP? Thats for the watercooler and brag racing. 530hp? Oh, you run hi-9s? Get your butt down here or lets get together at Bradenton for a Sat morning T&T.

The formula I use spits out 413rwhp. I prefer that formula because it takes ET, MPH and weight into consideration. Most of the others calculate HP based on ET or MPH and if you have a bad launch and get a slow ET but high MPH, there is a disparity between the 2 calculations. However, all close enough as long as you consistently use the same formula. They appear to use a 23% loss to calculate flywheel HP. Even using a conservative 20%, I get 516.25 at the flywheel. Why are you so surprised? I love applying the HP formula to some of the ridiculous claims you see in the auto rags.