Scottie-GNZ

Very nice car!

Nicely done. Where did you get your hatch? Does it mount upto the OEM brackets? How much?

Only $2500!!! http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/0/0/17310300.htm Looks like a 84-85 turbo engine to me.

1fstz, I hate to break this to you, but if you want to launch the car with slicks and NOS, I recommend you go with a Ford 9" or a built-up 8.8. 142+mph is an indication that the car can go quicker if you can launch it like you want. I stayed with the IRS because I still consider my car a street car and still like to go around corners (yeah, I know, everybody thinks I am just a drag racer). I know I can get my 60' down to mid-1.50s with DRs and I am happy with that and anything else is gravy.

That is the engine from the glory days of the Nissan IMSA GTP project.

The Buick StageII engine that was used in the Busch GN series were carbureted and made phenominal HP. The intakes are so good that the Buick turbo folks uses that adaptor to get a huge TB on the intake and make the necessary mods on the ports for injectors.

That Rogue Vette is a serious ride with some serious $$$. That is a Buick Stage II engine.

Drop me an email and let me know your plans.

I was in Margate on Friday. Would certainly like to meet up with you. I am in east Orlando, about 20mins from the 520 exit on I-95. Thanks for the links and most of them have been bookmarked, but none was of help for this particular issue. Guess I will just have to do it race car style. I will have to pull the hubs off again.

Tom, you can certainly go a few #s over but I am not sure I feel comfortable recommending going up to 20#. I ran 17# and the power was phenominal. If you go over 15#, the ECU will use the last values in the related maps, in this case, MAN PRESS and IGN RETARD. So, the trick is to add a little more fuel onto the last boost setting in MAN PRESS and pull out a couple of degrees timing on the last boost setting in IGN RETARD. Try running 17# and keep a close eye on the Duty Cycle. BTW, when you do go to a 3-bar, the mappings will be a little different, with slightly less granularity. However, since you are venturing into serious grin factor territory, it seems you have a handle on the maps and should have no problem transcibing from 2-bar to 3-bar. 18-20# on race gas. You are in for some serious fun .

Cannot believe I do not have a burnout vid or picture. Only thing close is a split-second at the beginning of this video. http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/gnz_vs_supra.mpg

Grumpy, where is Loxahatchee? You ever replaced the C4 rear toe rods with a bumpsteer stud kit? Cannot find a kit that fits because they are all for the front spindle and the rear has a different (bigger) taper.

It would be a very tight fit. If the funds are tight, you might not want to take this on or it might take forever. GN engines are torque monsters and it would twist that frame like a pretzel if the IRS did not disintegrate first. Plan on substantial frame stiffening and another beefier IRS. Do not want to discourage you but also do not want to see you get into something you might not be able to finish. As for the GN engine, the only ones I would recommend are the intercooled 86-87 or Pontiac TTA.

I believe the L6 is about 420lbs, then add the flywheel, clutch, about 75lbs for the trans and that should make them about even. However, keep in mind that entire Buick engine will be behind the front wheels. I have uprated front springs but do not remember the rate. My rear spring is 160# but I lean towards 1320. Having adj shocks allow me to go full soft at the strip and medium on the street. If you are 80/20 then go for the 80% but keep in mind that stiff springs are not good for drag racing especially if you have a lot of power and sticky tires. Wheelhop!!

http://www.torquecentral.com/techdocs/GM/ls1/LS1_Tech_article.htm

Hopefully the FPR you have is adjustable. Increasing the pressure will increase the injector flow to correct a lean condition or allow a little more boost. Although the increase will not be tremendous, you also want to make sure the pump can handle the increased flow demand. Regardless of what pump you running, you want to "hard-wire" it by running a 10-gauge wire from the alt to the pump through a relay. Run a 10-gauge ground from the pump to the battery, then use the original pump hot lead to trigger the relay. I would be willing to bet you are probably getting 11+V at the pump at full boost with the original hot lead. Not good. In order to know the result from increasing the fuel pressure, you need to know the injector flow rate and the rated pressure. Divide the new pressure by the old pressure. Find the square root of this number and multiply it by the flow rate. E.g., if the injectors you have flow 300cc @ 36# and you increase the FP to 42#, the injs will then flow 324cc. That should allow you to run another 20+hp. Understand though that the increased flow is across the board and so you will have it at idle also. Might not impact idle that much but you should expect it to idle a little richer. This is where a programmable system shines. Remember to adjust the FPR at idle with the vacuum line off and capped (for a normal idle). This simulates 0 MAP so do not be surprised when you see the FP drop when you replace the vacuum line.

Rickybell, I empathize with your dilemna. Even with that size tire, you will be lucky to get 116+ with the 3-spd. I faced the same dilemna with the GN engine trying to get up to 125mph in 3rd gear and avoid shifting to OD. My first tire choice for your use would be the Nitto drag radial. Great traction especially if you can get some heat in them, excellent street tire, good in the rain and 7,000 miles is not out of the norm but you can forget that with the welded diff. Next choice if the Toyo Proxes RA-1. Same traction properties as the Nitto. They come with only 8/32" and get better when they get down to 4/32 or less BUT extreme caution is needed in the rain. They have a 255 not 245. If you want ultimate traction and have no regard for wear or wet weather, then get the BFG DRs. They wear out just looking at them , but they are good down to the cords showing . I cut a 1.62 with the BFGs having no trace of treads. Once they start wearing, you have to watch for someone in front of you spitting in the road . As Terry said, they will fit, but the BS is the key. Do not surprised if you need a spacer for the 5.5" BS unless you have coilovers. Is that 3.36 a R-200 or the original R-180? Regardless, wheelspin is what is saving your rear-end up to this point. Options I see you having are: NISMO 3.15 R&P, trans with an OD or a cam kit that will get you another 300+ RPMs. Good luck.

Jim, now that I know the optimum EGT for my setup, I will eliminate using the O2 all together because my chip runs in open loop mode only and the race gas eventually contaminates any O2, even heated ones.

I am almost certain the Ford 4-bolt pattern is 4x4.25.

They have to be making at least 2000hp to be competitive.

quote Well Norm, depends on how you look at it. I think one should always shoot to be faster, not the fastest, because as the old adage goes, someone is always faster. Keeping up with the "Joneses" ,pun intended, Ron , is EXPENSIVE. As light as your Z is, a mild 320hp turbo setup puts you in the mid-11s and with your mechanical and driving skill, piece of cake. Think that is not fast enough? Look in Andy's chart and see how many of us are quicker and what we are running to do it. Think of the fun you will have venturing into new ground.

TURBO, TURBO. Come on over to the dark side.

A custom rodder's dream. http://www.colemanracing.com/prodex/ Look in the Steering section for heim joints (rod ends). Glad to see you are on it Larry. Keep us posted.

Mike (Z-Gad) came over Friday night to help me put the finisihing touches on the installation. Connected the brake lines, bled the brakes, mounted the wheels/tires, mounted the hood. Oh Yeah, looking good. Fired her up and she purred like a low-compression, weak-kneed, Yank V-6 Racheted the shifter into 1st to activate the transbrake, hit the loud pedal, Voila, spools up to 10# boost with ease. In the background, the Orlando Magic are kicking butt and I am just beaming with pride on how the car sits and how the gumballs fill up the fender flares. Saturday morning I back it out of the garage and wash it for the first time since, oh.... Drive out onto the street and made a mental note to check the tire pressure as the rear felt a little squirrelly. I go one block and PANIC!!! Wheels feel like they about to fall off and I envision one of those comedic skits where the wheels fall off and the car collapses. What the hell did I forgot to tighten? Not like me as my buddies sometimes kid me when I stand there pointing at things like I am paying "enee, menee", making sure I did not forget anything. I make it back to the garage and jack up the rear and everything that is bolted up is tight. I do the "hands on the tire at 12 and 6" test and it is solid. I do the "hands on at 9 and 3" and WTF, I can move the tire huge amounts, both sides!! Turns out the toe rods are badly worn in the part that looks like a wheel cylinder. The ends of the rods have little balls that fit on a socket and rotates to allow the rods to move up and down with the suspension travel and also allow the rods to turn when adjusting the toe. The balls are so badly worn that I can move them IN/OUT at least 1/16"!! I am really ticked that I missed that especially considering that I had the rods narrowed. I located a used one at at a junkyard Saturday afternoon, but it did not feel as solid as I wanted. Seems the price for a used one is about $100 + $40 to have it narrowed. Did not even bother calling Chevrolet to see what a new one cost. Checked the catalog of the custom shop in Tampa and they make a custom replacement with heim joints, $260!!! Are these guys nuts, I can make that myself. Called Coleman today and ordered 16" aluminum tie-rod sleeves, with LH & RH threaded ends for $11/ea. The 5/8" heim joints are $12.50/ea. I will use 2 hiem joints on the inside and the OEM tie rod ends on the outside. Couple of $$$ to fab the bracket and it should cost about $85. I just have to be careful that the heim joints are positioned correctly on the bracket so the rods are level with the road surface (like in the picture) to not induce bumpsteer. Another bump (sic!) in the road. Kick myself in the butt for not thinking of making the rods in the first place, considering I paid $40 to have the bad ones narrowed. Oh well.

Oops, sorry. The gear ratio recommendation is even more applicable.