Scottie-GNZ

Sorry, it only fits a 1st-gen with the nissan tranny.

Lone is correct. The 200R4 is the trans that came with the Buick GN. Stock, they can handle quite a bit of power. However, I cannot guarantee that the internals of a 200R4 behind a NA is as robust as the one in the GN.

Jason, I assume you are using the boost retard mode feature. Just curious why you did not just go with SDS "E" or even "F" and let the SDS do the ignition control. Anyway, that is a really tough question to answer since you have to figure out how to combine the 2 wiring harness into a single plug on the MAP sensor. I would call either of the vendors and ask because there is a possibility the warranties could be voided, especially if you have to return the faulty item and they see the wiring harness mod.

Tim, nice work.

You're scaring me, man! I just ordered a larger rearview mirror so I can get a better view of your wicked setup . How come you are not posting a pic of your wheels? I, at least, want to see them. BTW, I got the package. Thanks.

Since you are running so much boost, before you run the car hard, turn the boost down a notch to be safe, then work your way back up. Good luck.

I had a terrible experience with head studs in my Buick V-6. Head studs, when screwed into a water jacket, acts like a wick if the threads do not have the proper sealant on them. Since the L6 came from the factory with head studs and I have never heard anyone report the same problem, then maybe it is not an issue with that engine. Just follow the product's procedure for thread sealant and torque specs.

Just be aware that BMW uses an odd 5-120 bolt pattern.

I think I would shy away for a high-HP turbo setup.

BLKMGK, I am using a Precision Turbo, model PTE-51. Cost was $600 outright and it supports up to 585hp and more if you upgrade it to a bigger exhaust housing, assuming you can deal with the added lag. The one thing to be aware of is that the turbo flange for a stock GN header is 3-bolts as opposed to the more popular 4-bolts. Most GNers stick with the 3-bolt until they get way up there in HP where they have more of a selection of 4-bolt turbos. If you were starting from scratch, you can go either way and if you go 3-bolt GN-style, you can go a long way before the selection gets thin. You might recall Mattback getting 357RWHP from his 300ZXT. He is using a TE-44 which is a very popular turbo among the GN crowd and good used ones can be found for around $400. He is no where close to maxing out that turbo. It is really a mystery why other turbo vendors charge so much. I can certainly understand ceramic wheels and ball-bearings, but a standard big-hp turbo for a GN should be no more or less expensive than a standard generic big-hp turbo. The debate about a TT-V8 vs a single-turbo is an interesting one. The issue of turbo lag with a single turbo can be minimized by selecting a properly configured turbo. Certainly the TT can make more HP, but if you are talking 500 vs 900, then you have to ask yourself if your engine can support that extra HP. The complexity of making a crossover for the exhaust for a single-turbo is probably no less complex that the I/C plumbing, the I/C itself (dual in/single out) and 2 DPs for a TT setup. IMO, if you are looking for a 500+hp turbo-V8, a properly configured single-turbo will get the job done. Just understand the volume of air you think you will be moving and configure the turbo, I/C, cam, etc to suit the need.

I have a full set. Still do not know specifically what I will be doing for front brakes yet, but it will probably be at least 12". The wheels are really growing on me and so I just might stick with them and get a 2" 4-4.5 to 5-4.75 adaptor.

Think folks will find this useful. http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_coolers.html

Stony, the pic needs to be on a computer accessible to the Internet. The address used to access it is the URL. Once you know the URL, then when posting, click on the "IMAGE" Instant UBB CODE just below the text window and insert the URL.

Cyind, more than happy to lend whatever assistance I can but I would not be so quick to want to narrow yours. The key is the dimensions of your wheels and the main dimension is the distance from the hub mount point to the outside edge of the wheel. The Z-28 wheel is 8" wide but has a 55mm offset meaning that there is only about 1.83" to the outside edge. If your wheel, e.g., is 16x9 with a 6" BS (typical of a Centerline), that would give you 3" to the outside edge. Switching to the Z-28 wheels would move the wheel/tire in about 1.17". Not meaning to suggest that you swap out the Centerlines for the Z-28s, but it is an option to narrowing the IRS. Personally, the Z-28 wheel looks good on a Camaro but on a smaller, sleeker car like the Z, I think it looks great and in the world of aftermarket wheels, it is a bargain.I would suggest you find a Z-28 wheel/tire for a quick trial fit, maybe from a friend or body or service shop that has one in for extended service. Jeff, I am not thinking about running the car just yet , it will happen. I will be going tomorrow night to support a friend and there is a big import meet this Sunday that I plan to spectate (that will be painful). If you and Z-Gad plan on going, let me know.

Zfan, where did you put it? What size pipe? Any pics?

Car has been off the jackstands for a while now waiting for the coilover shocks which finally arrived today. Unfortunately I will not be able to do anything further until the weekend. Damn, hate when work gets in the way. Here is the car on the ground at the desired ride height with 255/50-16 DRs mounted on 16x8 Z-28 wheels. Those wheels are only 17lbs/each.

Think you need to get some louvers in that hood over the I/C. That is really light for a 300ZX. Nothing out of the norm with your timeslip. That was only about 300RWHP and you are giving away about .4 at the starting line. You need to consider some DRs to get that 60' down and car should be in the hi-11s. Are you planning on coming over to Orlando this coming Sunday (11th) for the import meet? Let me know.

Anyone looking to do a high HP NA V-6 has several options, but if you are serious about approaching 400hp, you really only have 2 choices, the 4.3L Chevy or the Buick 3.8. Both base production engines would require extensive internal work to hold together with that much HP. Luckily, Buick produced such and engine that could be purchased from their catalog. This engine is referred to as the Stage II and is the engine that dominated Busch GN before they abondoned V-6s. It is also the same engine that is (was) used in the Indy Lights and produced 465RWHP. In turbocharged form, it was used in Indy cars and usually took the pole for the Indy 500 and of course the fast drag racing Buicks are pulling 1000+hp in street-driven cars. There is currently a Busch GN engine for sale and if anyone is really serious, DO NOT HESITATE. http://www.turbobuicks.com/ubb/Forum11/HTML/000729.html There is no way in hell anyone can duplicate that HP potential for $3000.

Matt, you have the I/C BEHIND the radiator??? Yikes!!! Supra do not lauch strong but you really left him sleeping. What was the 60'? Did you put the car on the scales? My guess is 3350# with you in it. Whare exactly is the Bradenton track and how would I get to it from Orlando? Is it also called DeSoto.

That Ultra-Flo would not work for me becauseit is 4.5" thich. As for a fitting a Z in the standard position, I think a 21" long body is pushing it and a 3" piping would probably make it almost impossible.

Mike, the Spintech looks like the best option so far with the 2.25" thickness and oval pipes. The shop that does all my exhaust work happen to be a Spintech distributor and deals a lot with oval tubing. http://www.certifiedmuffler.com Next time the car is in the air I will mock up a 9"x16" cardboard muffler and see how it fits.

I am coming up on 2 yrs with mine, pushing 400+hp, with a monster I/C, large oil cooler and trans cooler in front of it. Overheating is not a concern even in FL. I think it helps that I have a mixture of ~15% antifreeze, and a bottle WaterWetter and RMI-25. I run a J/Y 16" fan that is in a full 19" shroud sealed to the radiator core. It does not have provision for a tranny cooler or petcock and you must fabricate mounts, but IMO, worth the little hassle and it looks good too.

Assuming about 3300# and good traction, I project low-mid 12s. Still very impressive.

Matt, that is impressive. What turbo? I keep saying the difference between 8# and 16 # is frightening and this is a perfect example. At 16#, you matched the peak of the 8# run at only 2700RPM. Bring that puppy over to Orlando on Nov 11th for the import meet.