Lazeum

Going with electronic ignition is not only good for better control & stability of timing, it also allows to control timing when engine load is low. It will make your engine running way smoother but you will also have way more torque available with part throttle. Hence, It will lower your fuel consumtion quite significantly. It also reduces average engine temp. Total cost on my side to convert from dizzy to electronic ignition: 1000€/$ Side question about EDIS controller: you need coil but also a module to control spark, that's what called EDIS. So you have Megajolt =>EDIS module=> Coil pack

Hi, My Z is running with Megajolt for nearly 10 years now with no problem. Motorsport Electronics in UK is also doing a "box" called nodiz that seems to work very fine (I'm having their ME442 ecu to run in my soon-to-be Turbo Miata) You can see my build here => https://forum.autosportlabs.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3557

Mine will go on a rotisserie, that should help getting the media away.

I had mine media blasted last week (plastic/rubber powder). We've chosen with blasting company not to use sand because of risk to warp metal. Result is good, no warpage at all. I cannot be happier so far with the outcome (including very few rusted spots for 49yrs old shell ) Surface finish after media blast was very good. We can clearly see differences in metal & previous repair attempt (with rivets 😢 ) Next question would be "how long it would take to get rid of media inside car now.

Thanks for feedback. This will be too much modifications for the time being. My car is about to get a full frame off restoration - hence why my trans is out of the car now. But I'll keep that in mind then for the future - we never know, don't we? It seems our cars are never finished. For the last 12 years of ownership, there's always something happening

I’m aware about it. Not sure, I’d like to go this way yet.

The lever is tight going into gear. It is only loose going from neutral to 1st/2nd gears. So I guess it is made this way by design. It gives me an anwser to why I can't find a way to make everything tighter. It seems my option would be to look for S14 gearbox which is easy to find cheap in Europe (1 is avalable at 10mi from my place for 450€). I'll have to check if mods required are worth doing but that's a personal decision Thank you for your inputs

Not sure how to call those "springs" if there's any. There's no wobble on my lever. I've got brass bushings installed a long time ago, lever ball joint bushing is also ok. My question is about the force/load that should push back the lever to neutral position between 1st/2nd and 5th/Reverse. I can feel a good spring effect towards 5th/reverse but none between neutral and position between 1st/2nd gear. It is very loose. My trans is a FS5W71B. It is now out of the car. I was able to remove the return checking spring close to the lever. It is in very good condition. I can also see a groove on the striking rod. I can see a secondary groove being machined along the main one. Because of this "secondary" groove, the plunger does not provide any spring back effect in one direction. Looking at the design of the striking rod, I tend to believe it was made on purpose but I may be missing something here. Should I look somewhere else on the trans? Is there a spring I've missed? I daily drive a Miata nb2. I wish the Z would have a shifter as tight as the one from the Miata. Any help or comment would be appreciated

Stupid idea but are you sure you haven't mixed up the 2 wires from the crankshaft sensor? This is a very common mistake (I did it myself)

I was fine with stock N42. Issue happened with P79 ported by Braaap (issue was with casting, not porting)

That's right. The intersection of intake runners and head port made flow section being inconsistent. Weird knowing intake (Cannon Manifold with 40 DCOE) were used in the past on different head with no problem. I'm talking about 2mm difference between #1 & #6.

I was chasing some AFR issues for years until I realized my intake manifold was not properly aligned with head. It was causing too lean condition on first 3 cylinders and too rich AFR on last 3 cylinders. Maybe worth a check? I found it while I was disassembling intake to port it.

My car would stall as well if I do not have choke enabled or I would have to play with gas pedal as long as the car is not moving. We could live without it but it is nice to have it.

Recommendation means feedback from people, doesn't it? My best recommendation is to follow some youtube channels. The 2 best ones to me are: The Fabrication Series & Welding Tip and Tricks

Your setup is very neat. I’ve been thinking about a solution for awhile. Your setup looks so simple - which is great - I’m jealous you thought about it, not me :) congrats!