Lazeum

If you can make it work, let me know. I've tried to make it work, it did for some minutes and then nothing. I either tried datalogging on the MJLJ or on my LM2. It doesn't want to work anymore...

A proper designed bolt/nut clamped at the required torque (i.e. use a torque wrench if possible) should be designed to have enough clamping force to hold the mustache bar to the diff tight. The shape/size of the hole doesn't matter as long as it does not interfere with the clamping surface (flange of the nut in our case) The friction between the mustache bar, the diff and the nut matters. I second your advice about making sure there's no grease, dirt or defects in between parts.

I did see a difference at the time where my engine was pinging. Timing change to avoid ping definitely made a difference. Now, I've got a distributorless ignition I can change timing on the fly. I've got some lean AFR conditions at high rpm so I've done some tests. I have not seen any difference in AFR reading with engine running in proper conditions (no ping) So to answer your question: - Engine running properly, Timing does not interfere much with AFR - Engine running poorly, timing could have significative impact.

You should try xxf9 idle jet, they work much better than f8 units on L engine, at least on "old" Italian DCOEs (40DCOE-18). I would try 50f9 instead. It should help to get better acceleration too. Make sure your timing is ok. Too low timing would make the engine lazy and would create bog during acceleration also. Check also the jet deep inside the fuel bowl. Mine are closed with solder, they are 0 bleed jet to get the most fuel possible during accel. 34mm choke on stock L28 is on the high side. I had much better results with 32mm without compromising top end power while tuning some friends' stock L28. I'm running 135 & 34mm chokes with my tuned L28 engine and it is very rich, around 11:1 AFR (at least before engine run out of fuel in high rpm)

Your point regarding probe being partially clogged could be something to doublecheck. That's a good point I always run the car until it is fully warmed up prior to plug my sensor. However, I've lent the sensor to some of my friends, not sure they followed the same procedure. Anyhow, sensor was working well for them with no lean reading at high rpm and I've always experienced off the chart lean reading while at idle at speed, even when sensor was brand new. For the record, I also always calibrate the sensor before any session. This is obvisously something I should have done but it requires to drop the full exhaust. I could do it but it is a major pita; it is customed made, every section is spot welded to avoid it to become loose. Maybe something to think about in the future...

I thought I'd answered your message :/ Regarding my way of doing it is with a clamp made by Innovate. So I drive my car, go at WOT, steady/cruising operation and I record everything while driving. I can put my car on load, record and analyse everything quietly on the side of the road with the laptop. I can change jets along the road and go back. Same goes with timing, I analyze things out, change timing and go for trials. I'm going to order needle jets and see if that could change anything.

Hi, When I say, there is no change, I meant after retuning. Of course, each time I change something around carbs such as fuel pressure or choke size, I have to review jetting. Once it is setup, I always end up with lean AFR at the same rpm range. I'm also suspecting AFR tool. In the mean time, I've lend my sensor to some friends who were able to use it successfully with no problem (besides the ones they were trying to fix - and they both did! (injectors for one, fuel pump for the other, both on s130) - I've also changed my exhaust with the engine. So, exhaust has been also part of my investigation: no leak found, only tubing and tip have been changed. Exhaust manifold and muffler remain unchanged. I've added an intermediate resonator to lower noise level. - I measure AFR with Innovate exhaust clamp at exhaust tip, maybe something to investigate. I could add a copper tube to the clamp to get some gas deeper from the exhaust to avoid any potential wave reversion issue plausible. AZGhost623, you haven't said what are the needle valve you're running with your setup? Are they 200? Regarding Didier's commment... no comment!

Just to give some updates and also to try to get new ideas from members in order to solve my problems with my setup. A quick summary: since I've got my motor running with head made by Braap with Rebello "Street tight lash" cam, short block fully rebuilt by myself and distributorless Megajolt/EDIS ignition, I've never been able to eliminate some lean AFR at high rpm. My carb setup is as follow: 40DCOE18 with ported Cannon manifold on the carb side, enlarged at head side but still smaller than head ports. Main 135 air 180 F11 Etube 34mm chokes 4.5" aux venturis 45f9 idle jets 45 accel jets with 0 bleed valves 200 Needle jet Car is very responsive, pulls hard. It is very smooth to drive at all rpm. I can floor it (fast to some extend though!) in 3rd gear at 1200rpm and engine just goes with no problem. I'm basically missing only some hp at high rpm (too lean) where I can feel torque getting down around 5000rpm whereas it should go up to 6000rpm, as well as at mid rpm, being too rich. So I've tried to use systemic approach (fishbone/Ishikawa method) to my problem and eliminate one by one every problem I could foresee. Undercarbed intake: I've played with choke sizes, between 32mm and 34mm. It did not change anything. I consider undercarb situation not the cause of my problem (even if I need 45DCOE ) Carb tuning I've played with jets: - Main jets change the entire AFR curve. Lean spot becomes richer but AFR at mid rpm becomes also very rich. To be at 15:1 AFR at 6000rpm, I need to be at 11:1 at 4000rpm. - Air jet does not change anything at high rpm. I've been as small as possible (165), I ended up with engine cutting/starving fuel in tight right corners with no positive side effects. - Idle jet does not change anything either. - I've tried to plug the top holes on my F11 etube, I haven't observed any change at all. here's the curve with current setup during Etube test: Fuel supply NOK - I've changed fuel pumps from Carter unit (@3.5psi) to Mallory unit (at 2psi - for some reason I could not go higher) Result was some AFR translation, the AFR trend across rpm range was the same. As soon as I've changed main jet to get back to reasonable level, curves were similar. Fuel pump is not the cause of my problem. - Fuel lines Could some lines being clogged? I've changed all filters by new units, no change. Fuel tank has been cut open in 2, sanded, welded back together and it has received a full treatment to avoid corrosion. I've installed a fuel pressure gauge on my dashboard; fuel pressure is steady across all rpm range, including at red line. So I've put fuel supply at carbs out of the picture. - fuel bowl level. It is exactly the same for the 3 carbs. I've got 25mm from the top of the carbs cover to the fuel level. To check that, I keep cover on, remove etube and use a straw/tube from a can of WD40 that I deep into the carb while plugging the other side with my finger. Everything is spot on. - Fuel filling I've increased the travel of the floats to make sure needle valves were fully opened with fuel level being very low, it did not change anything. Timing NOK since I can play with timing I thought I might be so off timing could be a reason. I was running 34° max, I've tried 30° max, I've also tried 36°. There was no change at all on AFR curve. I've put timing out of the picture. So I start to be short on ideas. Something is not ok and I don't get it. Test on Etube seems to lead to some issue with fuel level, no change with clogged top holes tends to let me believe fuel does not go high enough around etube at WOT. So next test would be to try bigger needle valve, even if 200 seems quite big already. I also suspect the machine work I've done on intake. I've "just" enlarged the intake mostly at carbs side. Intake ports were smaller than carbs so I've made sure no step would stop air/fuel mix. Maybe I've made a thin/wide/thin condition leading to my problem. However, fuel and air are already mixed at that point, it would not explain why the engine runs lean. So.... what am I missing??? I need fresh minds to propose some new ideas. ...and thanks for the ones who read everything

I've done it many times, you can remove an oil pan from a S30 without lifting the engine. It is quite easy, you just have to tilt the pan in many directions without brute force to pull it out. N42 should have some square port but I believe there are some exceptions with some heads from Japan. If the head is the stock unit coming from your 280Z, you should be fine.

Hello, I've seen your message on Autosportlabs forum to check how to hook up your megajolt system. Unfortunately (for you, not for me ), I've got a 240z with originally a coil triggered from the minus side. My wiring does not apply to your 260Z then. You should check how people connect their stock tack to their megasquirt ecu, you should reproduce what they've done with success. Good also to see Leon's car going to a good home ...and welcome to the board!

I've used energy suspension kit from MSA and I'm happy with it. I was also concerned with TC rod bushings. I've installed them anyhow on TC rod without attaching the rod to the control arm, the load to flex the bushings at this position is not so high. I don't thing bushings stiffness is the only factor creating the failure we're all heard about. With large sway bar (1"), I've noticed some clearance issue with the TC rod. I've made some spacers below sway bar fixtures on frame rails to lower it by roughly 1/8" and fix clearance issue. That problem could also explain some failures. I also had a talk with Aaron from MSA, he advised me to go with poly at TC rod. In addition, car behavior with poly bushings at TC rod versus stock (and new) bushing is very noticeable.

I've done the first oil change on mine after 10 minutes of running. I let the engine for a minute or two idling and then put the engine at 3000rpm. Once it was warm, I stopped the engine and did an oil change. I also removed the oil pan to find a lot of debris (metal chips) and pieces of paper towel that were somehow clogging partially the oil sender. I was very careful during the build but it happened. I've cleaned everything, change the oil and oil filter. I then proceeded with breaking in procedure, I was going at WOT but I was making sure to never go above some rpm limits that went up over time (started with 3500rpm). I've got after 2000mi no oil consumption and a very healthy engine. Check also carefully valve clearance over time. Mine were moving constantly for the first 500mi. Now everything is steady, I can enjoy my engine with no back feelings Regarding your tune, if you've got knock, just back up a little timing to get safe.

You could also get some design done in silicone such as this aixbox. It's made in UK.

It's in French but this is how far a ZX in France has been restored if you ever talk about this thread. Pictures speak for themselves. He has shaped wood to match body geometry to "forge" steel sheets around it. Truly amazing. The man behind the work was a former Alpine employee who participate into Alpine cars history by making them. http://www.datsun-france.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4284

You did that!!?! Shame on you Paris is good at night but overall I just run away from it: traffic jam, overpriced, unsafe, dirty, noisy, people unhappy.

Your statement about French being not active on this board is wrong! You won't find any Z owner in Europe next weekend because we're all in Le Mans for Le Mans Classic event! We gather French, Brits, Dutch and Begium owners for a good weekend around the track. Enjoy the trip! Best places to be in France are not big cities but small countryside. This is where the people are nice and the food excellent. Just run away from Touristic places

It seems to me something was off with your alternator. It was a good move to have it checked. If the battery is still able to hold its charge, it should be fine. O'reilly tested it so I would put it out of the picture. Alternator regulator should hold tension around 14V if it is charging. On my 240z, the regulator is not part of the alternator, so it seems to me you haven't checked it yet if it is not part of the alternator. So it could be a reason. 2nd alternative could be a loose belt. It is not tight properly, alternator could have not been run properly leading to malfunction. it should also be the correct size; somehow, previous owner on mine had different wheel sizes between water pump, alternator and pulley. I had to run 10mm wide belt ; too small for water pump but good for pulley - it was slipping. I now have a different pulley, belt is now 13mm wide, it fits perfectly, there isn't any slippage anymore. To make sure, I would plug a voltmeter on the battery while car isn't running, check voltage, start the car and see if voltage changes. You should read 12.5V not running and around 14V when running. You might want to rev a little in neutral to see if voltage changes while you're at it.

You should be fine using this manifold with 40DCOE even if it is not ideal. Here's a post where I've been asking similar question. You should take a look.

I believe you've answered your own question. I had to machine and port my manifold to match carb output on my Cannon Weber manifold to go with 40DCOE.

I bought mine at Clark's Discount The owner is very nice and very fast.

You need to check if that's normal or not. I believe on 260z you might have a electric fuel pump used only to prime carbs before starting the car. You need to check how and when the pump works. A voltmeter and/or FSM would help you there. If the electrical pump is an aftermarket unit (Mallory, Carter, Holley, Facet, etc.) you might be able to use it, you need to check that. You might also need to change the wiring if the electrical pump you've got is stock. It has to work also after engine has been started. You need 12V when ignition switch is on "ON" position. You also need to think about safety: how are you going to manage fuel pump in case of car accident? You do not want the pump to flow gas if you've been into major accident. You either need a switch that works with oil pressure (as it is done on S130) or an inertia switch. I got one from a donor car in a junkyard for $20. People recommend using cheap and quiet RX7 fuel pump easily available if your engine is stock FYI.

I would also be curious to see AFR levels. There's some power to be gained somewhere here.

With low engine load (i.e. low fuel mix inside combustion chamber), mixture burn rate is slower than at full load. To run properly at partial load, you either need to get more fuel or get ignition occuring earlier than what a simple mechanical dizzy can do. It is much more efficient to control timing than to compensate poor engine control with high AFR, hence vacuum advance system. Bottom line, at WOT, you won't notice any change between pure mechanical advance based on rpm only & full engine timing control => no interest for racers. Changes would be very noticeable at low load and transient states (which makes the engine more reactive - feeling more powerful). Fuel economy will be much more efficient, you can get as much as 30% fuel economy with good timing. I'm controlling timing with TPS instead of MAP, difference on the street is night and day.

Mine was flexing very easily under almost no load. Middle of the airdam was starting to go downward. Since, I've made a simple brace. I took a steel pipe with thin wall and 1/2" diameter. I've flattened both sides, I've twisted the end that goes to the airdam to make the pipe follow the airdam inside shape, other side is flat. I've then drilled both sides, one to allow a M6 bolt to be attached in front of the radiator, one other hole at the other side to allow a rivet to be installed at airdam. Not sure, if it is very clear.... I need to take some pictures. Total cost was a pipe at 2€ at hardware store, a rivet and 1hr of my time. [EDIT]: I've found a picture on my PC Airdam is very solid now, nothing moves, it is straight again since there's some tension wit the bracket to hold the airdam. Rivet is just to avoid the bracket to slide sideways.

Of course, I do understand French, it is somehow my native language Rule of the forum is to speak in English, so I do it (I've lived many years in the US so that's no problem) The head is definitely the main part of the build. You'll see on the board that reliability comes from the bottom end, power from the top part of the engine. My head work with hardware was not cheap (above $2000) but difference with previous stock head was huge. When I told you some regrets having ITM pistons, it is because some want always more. At some point, cast aluminum pistons are going to limit the potential of your build. Since it is not easy to change them, it is something to take into consideration if you ever expect to go above 7000rpm on a regular basis. As far as I'm concerned, my car is a road car and it fully meets my expectations.