Lazeum

Going with electronic ignition is not only good for better control & stability of timing, it also allows to control timing when engine load is low. It will make your engine running way smoother but you will also have way more torque available with part throttle. Hence, It will lower your fuel consumtion quite significantly. It also reduces average engine temp. Total cost on my side to convert from dizzy to electronic ignition: 1000€/$ Side question about EDIS controller: you need coil but also a module to control spark, that's what called EDIS. So you have Megajolt =>EDIS module=> Coil pack

Hi, My Z is running with Megajolt for nearly 10 years now with no problem. Motorsport Electronics in UK is also doing a "box" called nodiz that seems to work very fine (I'm having their ME442 ecu to run in my soon-to-be Turbo Miata) You can see my build here => https://forum.autosportlabs.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3557

Mine will go on a rotisserie, that should help getting the media away.

I had mine media blasted last week (plastic/rubber powder). We've chosen with blasting company not to use sand because of risk to warp metal. Result is good, no warpage at all. I cannot be happier so far with the outcome (including very few rusted spots for 49yrs old shell ) Surface finish after media blast was very good. We can clearly see differences in metal & previous repair attempt (with rivets 😢 ) Next question would be "how long it would take to get rid of media inside car now.

Thanks for feedback. This will be too much modifications for the time being. My car is about to get a full frame off restoration - hence why my trans is out of the car now. But I'll keep that in mind then for the future - we never know, don't we? It seems our cars are never finished. For the last 12 years of ownership, there's always something happening

I’m aware about it. Not sure, I’d like to go this way yet.

The lever is tight going into gear. It is only loose going from neutral to 1st/2nd gears. So I guess it is made this way by design. It gives me an anwser to why I can't find a way to make everything tighter. It seems my option would be to look for S14 gearbox which is easy to find cheap in Europe (1 is avalable at 10mi from my place for 450€). I'll have to check if mods required are worth doing but that's a personal decision Thank you for your inputs

Not sure how to call those "springs" if there's any. There's no wobble on my lever. I've got brass bushings installed a long time ago, lever ball joint bushing is also ok. My question is about the force/load that should push back the lever to neutral position between 1st/2nd and 5th/Reverse. I can feel a good spring effect towards 5th/reverse but none between neutral and position between 1st/2nd gear. It is very loose. My trans is a FS5W71B. It is now out of the car. I was able to remove the return checking spring close to the lever. It is in very good condition. I can also see a groove on the striking rod. I can see a secondary groove being machined along the main one. Because of this "secondary" groove, the plunger does not provide any spring back effect in one direction. Looking at the design of the striking rod, I tend to believe it was made on purpose but I may be missing something here. Should I look somewhere else on the trans? Is there a spring I've missed? I daily drive a Miata nb2. I wish the Z would have a shifter as tight as the one from the Miata. Any help or comment would be appreciated

Stupid idea but are you sure you haven't mixed up the 2 wires from the crankshaft sensor? This is a very common mistake (I did it myself)

I was fine with stock N42. Issue happened with P79 ported by Braaap (issue was with casting, not porting)

That's right. The intersection of intake runners and head port made flow section being inconsistent. Weird knowing intake (Cannon Manifold with 40 DCOE) were used in the past on different head with no problem. I'm talking about 2mm difference between #1 & #6.

I was chasing some AFR issues for years until I realized my intake manifold was not properly aligned with head. It was causing too lean condition on first 3 cylinders and too rich AFR on last 3 cylinders. Maybe worth a check? I found it while I was disassembling intake to port it.

My car would stall as well if I do not have choke enabled or I would have to play with gas pedal as long as the car is not moving. We could live without it but it is nice to have it.

Recommendation means feedback from people, doesn't it? My best recommendation is to follow some youtube channels. The 2 best ones to me are: The Fabrication Series & Welding Tip and Tricks

Your setup is very neat. I’ve been thinking about a solution for awhile. Your setup looks so simple - which is great - I’m jealous you thought about it, not me :) congrats!

I've also invested into TIG welder last year. We all have super projects to go such as roll bar, sway bar, braces, etc. At the end, we all need some learning curves and I got into furniture making. Simply because the risk to kill myself with a table or a lamp is lower than with chassis braces in my Z. So I've got a welder and I haven't yet made any automotive parts ! Between welding techniques, how to set up the welder, choose the right cups, tig rod, gas flow, etc. it takes a lot of time. We all make the same mistake: we believe because we have a welder, we can weld. This is far from being true. ...and when you believe you start to master the new toy tool, you start realizing that welding make everything moves. Something square at the beginning end up being all over the place at the end. So come new questions: heat management, how to tack and clamp stuffs, etc. You also realize you do not really know how to cut and shape metal. So it is not always only about welding but also preparation. It takes almost as much time to learn how to properly shape metal as welding. I have a IGBT Tig 200, same as Powerlast i-TIG 200T and I'm very happy with it. Having AC/DC TIG is for sure a nice feature but I could just use titanium instead if required 😅 Budget comes into play also. I'm way over 1500€ ($1500) with my setup when you add everything up. I believe having a digital inverter TIG is a must now. I love the pulse feature, high frequency start, slopes, etc. It really helps to control puddle and consistency for beginners with pulses. Because pictures are cool, here are some of my projects: A lamp with Edison type bulb, 10 hrs of work to make it. Cool project because it really teaches how to spot weld. A second lamp because I've found cool rusty chains that inspired me Because we all have to start somewhere: A bottle opener. You have no idea how popular it is. I've build 5 of them - I own none. Each time friends come at my place for a drink, they are begging me for one so I gave them apart. With this project, I was also able to play with arc length and heat. I was able to make some heat treatment to make the hook harder. Last project was a coffee table. My work of art (so far!). I've spent 40 hrs minimum in the making. Oh, and I had to learn how to work on reclaim wood also ! Almost done. I still need to finish the legs (hence the board below to avoid scratching the hardwood floor)

From what's left under the hood, I would advise you to go all in with prep work. I've been there and I don't regret it at all. Looking at the shape of your block, hot tanked it is the way to go. Mine was in way better shape and had a lot of mud in coolant areas. Surfacing the block is not very expensive. I've paid around 50 for it. When it comes to cylinder walls, I don't see well but you should see some scratches. If you don't, you will have a least to hone them again. Check also for cylindricity. If they are out of shape, you also to move to bigger cylinder/rings.

@Ironfoot In your 4G Prelude, you had a dizzy but timing wasn't controlled inside dizzy. It was already ECU managed providing proper timing.

Electronic ignition is not about getting proper timing at max rpm, it is also how you control timing that matters. Any good "old style" dizzy can do that. But can you easily get 16° of advance at idle, 36° at high load/high rpm and 50° at low load/medium rpm? You can only achieve this with an ECU and good sensors. People say you cannot run Triples with vaccum advance, it is a shame because we're loosing driveability big time without it. Read document attached to convince/educate yourself if you'd like, it is full of good info. Pertronix or other systems going into stock dizzy without any kind of adjustments are a good upgrade over stock but nothing compared to full timing control. Weber-dcoe-fuel-economy-study.pdf

Sorry for late answers. I did not receive notifications.... To answer questions: TPS was easier to setup . With Map I would have been afraid to have pulses issue without tapping all runners together for proper signal. MAP would indeed provide a better resolution and better control but it is not so much required afterall. The mount. I designed it on CAD software and I've asked a machinist I was working with to make itfor me. So he did with CNC machine. If you're interested, CAD file should be available somewhere. If it is not, I can share

I've got a megajolt setup on mine and I love it a lot! It has been on my L28 for 5 years without any flows. When it comes to cost, everything including, I came up with a cost of nearly $1000. All the bits and small parts required make the bill bigger than expected Besides benefit of tuning timing for HP, with TPS or MAP control, you will be able to get proper timing at idle and low rpm. Results would be better driveability/smoothness, better low end torque, lower fuel consumption in addition to higher torque and HP. Here's a how-to I've made several years ago

You should go and read the thread about Weber carbs. It is loaded with good info. Regarding your concerns, you need to check and share your setup with different jets sizes before anyone could help you out. Check also your float level with correct fuel pressure, give us details about how you setup the idle screw (how many turns?), the kind of triple you have (45DCOE142 ?), etc. Some were having troubles to tune the newer 45DCOE. The fix AFTER ALL ADJUSTMENTS WERE TRIED was to drill an extra progression hole. Good luck!

I had the issue when doing some tuning for a friend. It happened the brackets holding the pushrods where too close to the carbs, they were rubbing against carb body. We had to add some washers between the carb and the brackets to get some extra clearance. It could also be because the nut of butterfly shaft is too tight. Try to remove the bracket/hardware to control carbs and check if they are still sticky. Your carbs are most likely fine.

Your study is interesting! You should plot the AFR vs. Rpm. It would be easier to compare data.

Good work with the exhaust and the video! I experienced the same outcome. I've made my own resonator with a friend and the drone / exhaust sound get quieter at steady rpm. Sound at WOT did not change much, which I don't complain about since I love the sound of the L6 with DCOE!