Lazeum

With dished pistons you could create some quench with the solution on the right on my picture. I've made this drawing with MS PPT, the intent was to show a concept So even with dished pistons, a correct designed open chamber can get some quench, that's the basic idea.

Have you considered cold galvanize solution followed by paint? Cold Galvanize solutions will bring a layer of zinc that will avoid your steel parts to be corroded. It's a very similar effect as electric poles or barrier you may see everywhere on the street. If it chips or get scratched, potential difference between Zn and Fe will make the zinc to corrode first (White rust) living the steel in good shape. I'm going to redo my suspension very soon, this is the route I'm going to take. 3 randoms links for info: http://www.zrcworldwide.com/p_zrc.asp http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?id=4 http://www.clearcoproducts.com/cold_galvanize_sprays.html

Seriously, there isn't much difference. You're being picky with such details When you look at Wikipedia (ok, not the most reliable source   So if the class is not shown, the grade of the bolt become lower?   Based on the last comment, should we consider the grade as "Mild Steel" or "High Strengh Steel"? So lower grade of steel bolt will have a lower property class ? When I read the last quote, seriously, what's the difference? I'm playing the smart ass but I don't feel there's big differences... There're also a lot of humor in my message, don't take it too seriously  Â

It's funny to see how each thread about 2 heads end up being a N42 vs P90 discussion & detonation   Just to bring more details about detonation. Hopefully I'm right (  ) & it will help enlighten the concept for others Detonation is due to 2 explosions in one combustion chamber. One is created by the spark plug, the other by the high pressure built in the chamber because of the first one. So the game is too have the explosion from the sparkplug to occur fast enough to burn everything before the pressure becomes too high to ignite the unburnt remaining gases. So 2 parameters comes into play: the distance the flame has to travel & how good the mix is between air & gas. I've drawn some sketches, between how the flow air/fuel is mixed + distance, I was trying to show why quenched chambers are more suitable.

I don't take it as an offense but what would be the difference between a grade and a class? Should we say grade for nuts and class for bolts? bolt class 10.9 means that ultimate strength is min 1000MPa (145ksi) and yield strength is 1000*90% = 900MPa min (130ksi)

I did not expect such answers! I'm the first one to believe those kind of movies could be odd but I think this one was worth sharing. I guess I'm becoming older than I thought (30 ...so old )

It's kind of hardcore but the message is strong... It has been shared on local board, so I forward here too. TAC Campaign Drive safe! I don't think it is new from this year... hopefully not a repost

Regarding cam specs, Rebello is quite secretive about it. I don't have much info about it. Braap basically was in contact with Rebello, he described my setup, my goals (street car on twisty roads - target was torque all over the rpm range rather than max HP) and the work being done on the head. Rebello then has grinded the cam to match the setup. I've relied on Braap experience regarding the setup. I have also to say that asking a head builder to help could also be a good experience. I've learned a lot in the whole process since a lot of info have been shared over time with good support afterwards Regarding price, your best option would be to ask directly to Braap about a price range. I don't know if he wants me to share those kind of data...Â

What you've stated on the first post is about right. Regarding the P79, I don't think there's anything wrong with it. Myself, I have a P79 made by Braap that was showing drastic improvements over my previous stock N42 head. Camshaft were also different so it is not only an issue with the head, you also have to match the camshaft. I went from a Schenider symmetrical cam (Stage II @ MSA) to a Rebello Street assymetrical cam FYI. My setup is a NA 2.8L, see my signature for some details. I know I'm not the only one to have it. Regarding liners, I believe it has been measured than P79 does not flow less than P90. Liners can fall down, worse case scenario, they end up on the car behind me with my current exhaust Regarding price afterwards, you have to know where you're going, head jobs are not cheap (way over 1000$). I wanted to keep the L6 in mine for many reasons (stockish engine, L6 sounds, regulations, Car value ...) so I've taken this route and I don't regret it.

I'll keep your idea in mindÂ

i like the tapped oil restrictor idea I might have the appropriate parts available at work. A set screw should not be too difficult to get. thanks guys for your ideas!

 Already in china?!?  The mods you're talking about are blocking the oil path in the block and reroute the oil thru hoses to the pump, aren't you? I will certainly follow Paul's advice and pull the engine out of the bay. If so, mods would not be so challenging I guess. And regarding your idea, if there isn't any source to support your 'hear-say', not sure if I should trust it! Aren't you concerned with the flow being turbulent because of the edges in the hole shape???Â

I'll look at your proposal Paul   I post you a picture of the block. I'm not so far behind from your recommendation... and I've got everything next to the car to pull the engine out. Not sure I like the way the engine is right now (but I do learn a lot on the process) but I've decided to do it right to get this trouble far far behind me in the future. I've disassembled as well the oil pan, There was a lot of metal chips everywhere inside, some were big enough to get trap by the oil strainer (is it how we name the big stuff that suck oil from the pan??? ) but there was also a lot of shiny little particles everywhere. Cylinder walls look perfectly fine, that's already a good point I do have a friend who already proposed his help. He owns a performance shop close to my place so finding a engine shop should be a no brainer.

I'm aware restrictor should not get loose. My idea of the failure would be: Restrictor loose => loss of oil pressure => Engine damage On the other hand, it is a very small piece that should be quite easy to reproduce... Not sure though if I can source it somewhere. For the time being, my best solution would be to leave my engine alone and start the building process. I'm still consedering however the high flow pump.

Over night I also thought the best solution might be to replace the current restrictor by a new one drilled out of the engine. I would need a new restrictor to do so. Either I buy one (if it exists... MSA?) or I can fabricate one out of brass but I do not know the dimensions (but I can guess them from the current part).

Thanks Guys for the answers I need a air blower then which I don't have currently but it should not be a show stopper.

It might be a stupid question but when I was ready to drill the restrictor I came accross the question about "how to remove the chips afterwards from the blocck??   I mean, it seems the bolck inside is not a strtaight pipe where you can blow air thru it with only one way to go out. Chips can get stuck in remaining oil, they can also go thru the tensioner oil path way for instance. So I'm questionning if I should do it or not?    I might do more damage than anything else... What's your opinion?

I can read your post 10 times. I still don't get it... What do you mean?

Cities are not so fun, I would agree but don't worry for me & the Z; I have a nice playground in the forest where the Z is Loud exhaust keeps the dears, boards and other encounters far away from me.... We've got a lot of classic rallies as well where the Z is more & more well received

 I don't share at all your point of view. I lived 5 years in MI and I always though traffic made sense: very easy, no need to think.... but soooo boring to drive, everything is straight (at least it was in Detroit Metro area). ...and left lane is also for people at "advertized" speed in Europe  Complexity of French system makes the license also very hard to get. It costs 1500€, an average of 30h to study the rules and get your written exam and 30hrs driving with 6 months lead time between each exam if you happen to fail the first one (50% of success - 1 mistake and you're out!)

Living in Paris, I would have to disagree with the traffic comments It is a freaking mess here! Cars are coming from your right, from your back, from your left... you get stuck in the middle of a cross road because there's a traffic light stopping you. As result, people cannot cross because you're on the way with no way to move... There's also automatic radars every where. 1kph + 5% speed tolerance above real speed limit and you'll get a ticket in your mailbox 3 days after. It is telling you what to pay and how many points on your license you've lost... I get a ticket for 91 recorded instead of 90kph at 2am on an empty 3 lines highway. It makes no sense... They start putting speed bumps everywhere and there are HUGE. With my Z, I have to go super slow (2-4kph) and avoid going straight on it to have 1 wheel at a time... On the other hand, roads are in good shape. Country side is super nice with twisties every where, beautiful landscapes and very nice restaurants & places to stay. Moreover speed limits are not as controlled as it is in big cities as long as you're not in a village... Regarding your plan, there's also a Z community in France. I'm sure we're going to be more than happy to help. Some NZ people went to France, they've spent few days with the crew in Marseille, Monaco, etc..

If YOU say so

 FYI with car OEM's, we use grade 10.9 with Zn coating and they hold very well. those are also cheap, no need for stainless since you can get something strong, cheap that can look good (ie Shinny or black)

Oil restrictor on top of the tensioner is going to be untouched. BAsed on discussion on this board & "How to modify....", it is not required. Since it used only to "spray" some oil on the chain, I guess I'll be ok with only some mod on the restrictor in the middle of the block We should see each other soon, we can discuss further about the pump

Thanks didier for the proposal!!!   But if I increase oil restrictor size, should I still use a regular oil pump?