Lazeum

Yes, it is just a bolt on affair. You can keep the nut from your old diff. Make sure you torque the nut to the correct spec. You need a fairly large torque wrench to do so.

I'm in process of swapping my old stock N42 head with Schneider cam with Braap P79 "street" tuned head and Rebello cam  (car should start next Weekend!!!) Since the carbs were out, I wanted to check float level, linkage, jets, etc. I'll have to tune again almost from scratch my carbs and I found out my accel piston (in red circle in picture attached) is not at the same height on every carbs. Does anybody know how to sort that out? Since I will redo the whole tuning process, hopefully I'll be able to learn a little more again about those. It will be soon time to get some more jets If Mark is reading, I believe after a lot of reading the rich point in the AFR curve could be linked with pulse in the intake (my setup is Cannon manifold, DCOEs & roughtly 2" air horns). One way to check it would be with different or no air horn (but something would have to hold the chokes in place during the test. I've also learn that having a solid plate close to the air horn (K&N style air filters) could also help getting more power. In some specific case, I will not be a restriction but more like a mirror that could help with pulses. this theory might need some investigations....

You did not look good enough (it is not so easy, I admit it!) So here is a good thread about your concern even if the initial question is different from yours.

Wire transfer from the bank is probably the most expensive. I had no other choice than doing it to purchase stuff in UK whereas I'm in France. Total cost from my bank for around ~300€ was an additional 23€ + 6£ for the seller. It is a lot, I'll never do it again! I would use credit card with shops and Paypal with individuals (free if it is a private seller).

I had one but for Evo you have to get the one for DSM. there're 2 versions, the one provided with my TT was the wrong one, so I had to make some mods

I used to be in Michigan but I've moved on the other side of the ocean On the board, you have Tim in Dearborn that have a E85 L6 Turbo pushing way over 500whp. There's also the previous owner of my Z, Jeff, he is more on Classiczcars than HBZ, he still has a s30. Besides those members I've met some Z guys over there, either on the roads or on a parking lot. I've seen also some heavily modified Z at the Dream Cruise, so there're other ones hidingÂ

I had some issues wiring a timer to my previous car (Evo 8) The way to figure it out was with a voltmeter. You just have to check the tension with the ignition lock at several positions. So my advice is to get a voltmeter and connect each wires according to the manual at the correct terminals.

Tony,You're very sensitive with vocabulary I use to call the starter system the "choke" since it is what is written on the lever in the cabin, that's all! I also add some translation discussion between choke & Venturi, so I understand your concern. Regarding how the system works, we're on the same page. Mike, the plate is a heat shield to avoid issue because of exhaust manifold heat (vapor lock for instance). For the leak, difficult to tell. It looks greasy to me. it could be many things, it is hard to tell without being in front of the engine. It could also be the carbs fouling out some gas (because of bad timing, too high fuel pressure...).

The levers you're showing are for the chokes. On my setup, I had to start with the choke on depites of all the comments I'd got from many people telling me on DCOE is not necessary to have them to start the car. the setup was a L28/N42 with quite high compression for street use (10,3?) that could explain why cold start was difficult too. See below a picture of my engine bay, choke cable is a very regular cable, similar to the ones used on bikes for brakes, hooked up under the dash as described on the post above. It is very straight forward installation (in addition to an unexpected good anti thieft device ).

Nothing for me this year since I'm not in the US anymore... Instead I'll own a full monthly paycheck to the state (if it is not more) However last year, I'd got a full prep P79 head with Rebello cam done by Braap with tax return!

My bad you're right

Total advance of 55°???? That seems huge to me. I run around 30° on my high comp (bad) setup. I'm expecting 36° with my new correct build. That's 20° difference!!!

You mean one like this that whines a lot? I'll try to quiet it down (not to overload it, good damping with the rest of the body, etc...)

Thanks guys for the ideas I'm going to do mine very soon. Based on comments, it seems easier to just cut the pins at described in the Atlanticz web page and replace them with new ones I've already got. Don't PB enlighten with fire?

So basically you're telling us the FPR helped you even if you fuel pump was only rated to 4 psi vs. the regulator at around 3psi? Isn't it contradictory with what you told me on post #29?

That is new to me, adjusting the FPR has some effects on pressure gage readings however.

It is off topic but the Cannon manifold is having a hollow beam between runners. Would the copper line help to get vacuum more efficiently for brakes?

I'm not sure to understand clearly what are the options available regarding our fuel setup. There're 2 types of fuel pressure regulators (FPR): returnless and one with return line. This is all the setup I could come up with those FPR: #1 is the setup I currently run. I also run a mech fuel pump between the FPR & the first carb with electrical fuel pump out of the car (R200 mustache bar was on the way). I works quite well with the disadvantages we talked about in the thread. #2 is the same as #1 with the fuel line going back to the tank (with stock lines?). IMO, this sytem would not work since pressure at carbs will not be equal and will not meet 3 psi reqm't. #3 I've moved the FPR after the carbs to keep the pressure up. I don't think it works since pressure on carbs will be the one the fuel pump can produce. Would that works with low pressure fuel pump such as Carter pump? #4 The FPR is having a return line. however, I'm afraid with such a setup pressure with be high after carb pouring up fuel back to them making pressure too high for carbs #5 would work quite well to me but what would be the benefit from #1? It might only help to relief some loads to the pump but would not help for vapor lock. I think I could also have made a 6th version with no restrictor with or without return line based on #1 & #2 setups. What would finnaly work best? I guess the important points are: - feeding carbs with fuel at any circumptances - to not overload the pump to keep it reliable and "quiet" - to avoid head soak & vapor lock With the new setup for 2010, I'm probably going to remove or open 100% the restrictor (to keep the gage on top of it to check pressure), plug the return line and use my low pressure Carter pump. My Exh manifold is ceramic coated, no heat shield under carbs, no thermal protection on fuel hoses.

I was in front of the car yesterday. I cannot even be a parts car It could only become a nice sculpture in the middle of a bid living room. There was nicest car around to buy IMO for that price (if we are still talking about car...)

Way of topic but thanks!

Interesting reading there Some extra info regarding WBO2 from Innovate Motorsports

Off topic but I do have a Mallory 6AL (very similar to the MSD version), which wire is it? I've never noticed such a feature. It could be very interesting!

From Paris (actually not, I'm in Poland far away from my Z ) I second what you just said! There's a trick to start old car with mech pump. On mine, I've installed a kill switch to avoid to drain the battery when car is not used. It happened already 3 times to forget the switch, 3 times the ride I was expected was a rain check. It also helps against thieves; my dad has tried to show off to some of his friends how nice my car sounds , he was never able to start it

This is not particularly the reason. The biggest concern as Paul said is you will change the friction coefficient with the lube. Moly lube or motor oil won't have the same properties. As a result, with the same torque applied to the bolt, you won't get the same tension on the bolt, thus same behavior of the head/engine that could lead to HG failure. A bolt to be efficient has to be pulled until you reach a tension zone close to yielding point (10-15% before to be safe since nothing is perfect and you'll have variations everywhere: dimension but also material properties). You'll be amazed to see that when you torque a bolt to this point, 70% of the torque applied is to counteract friction to turn it. Only 30% (if it is not even less)will be "used" for bolt tension. Change the friction coefficient by 2 (from unlube to lube with moly is probably realistic), you'll have drastic change happening in the bolt. Same goes for everything. Suspension bolts are also very important. If you don't torque them properly, they might get loose overtime but they will also allow slippage of components in between each other (you will ultimately shear the bolt leading to failure). IMO, it is dumb to try to torque bolt to torque spec if you don't have the right conditions. Try to torque a rusted bolt to torque spec is useless, bolt should be changed, thread should be cleaned! The same way, to put some lube where is it not specified will result in a bolt with too much tension, you'll get past the yield strenght and you'll get less tension than expected leading to the same condition! (as soon as the bolt will yield, its section will reduce somewhere) Since I'm in it, by going close to yielding with bolt, you'll change the microstructure of the metal, it might change the strenght of the bolt, torque will then not be similar to obtain same performance (if reachable again!) So critical bolts torqued to spec (ie close to yielding) should be scraped each time they are untighted/torqued again. In the inductry, we could usually autorized 1 reused of the bolt depending on the criticity of the usage. Critical usually means "deadly" (suspension, steering, braking) Engine failure is critical for our wallet only Example: - Bolt used on suspension, no reuse (who wants to see his wheel popiping out of his vehicle???) One more comment on bolts, there're grades to know there properties. So depending on the grade, you'll change how you should torque them (standard head bolt vs. APR is a good example). So to buy hardware store bolt to replace stock bolt is not a good idea. Paul is very right: don't second guess, do what manufacturer is telling you BUT be smart and check correct conditions are met. Hope that helps ==> Most of my comments are off-topic, sorry for the OP

You forgot the noise as well the noise!