Lazeum

 Indeed!!!   I'll check what I can do in the regard. Otherwise, I've seen the part about modifying the oil path but that is for another time. Since I don't have a turbo to trash I can skip this part   (I'm kidding - I've already trashed a Rebello cam because of lube, no need to start again)

I'm driving the car for a year and I get used to it. As you're suggesting, I'm just going easy with the throttle. Stock suspensions might also be one contributor. 80000mi & still stock shocks might not be good. the only mods made are locking collar to lock the rear cradle & poly bushings for steering rack & tension rods. With the toyo's, I don't break loose the tires as easy on straight line as it did with Pirelli's. I can go at 80mph quite easily; I did not push 100mi enough to let you know if I can get that fast safely. By reading again my previous posts, it sounds like my car is uncontrollable which is not the case but you definitely have to pay attention to what you do while turning under the rain. If you don't touch the throttle on corners, the rear does not break loose (it will understeer like every normal stock car).

I did not know the accusump solution it is good to know but it looks quite complex. I've just checked baffled pan price... I'm gonna wait! I forgot how much is was! I've also spent some time to read "how to modify Nissan OHC engine" with no luck regarding oil path porting. It is in lube section? maybe block preparation???

When you know the price of Weber, custom head and such, I believe it is cheap economy to question the need of a new pump Tony, I haven't seen anything regarding port matching for oil passages. I'll check in the book tonight, thanks for the advice. Since everything is apart now, I guess it would be easy to do (and stupid to do not do). Car btw would most likely be for the street It seems to me a baffled oil pan would be a nice safety part before racing the Z.Â

The list is long on my side I'm disassembling the motor currently so, radiator is removed as well as the oil pump, the alternator, the water pump, front cover, timing chain kit, oil, oil filter. I've inspected everything and I 'm waiting for a engine hoist to remove the oil pan & front cross member to get it cleaned and refreshed. Next job would be engine rebuild  and suspension overhaul.

 I switched the tires already and it helps. Stock ones are Pirelli's P6000, they should be banned off the roads. But still with some Toyo's P4 225/45/17 car is "dangerous" on the wet. If front wheels are not straight and turbo spools, you go sideways.

Thanks Josh for your comments. I know oil pump is not so expensive so I might get a new one. Especially since I need to order gaskets also at the same time (front cover is down as well as oil pan currently)

 I was fighting for almost 4 months with some headlight issues. My harness is modified to meet European legislation regarding position & headlight regulations. Regardless of the outcome (it is fixed now!), here the method I believe we should all use when you have a electrical issue on lights. To answer curiosity, the culprit on my side was a loose sidemarker bulb (I had to connect ground from position light to sidemarkers to meet regulations). I changed it and it fixes all my troubles. The bulb was working properly besides the short. My lack of method made me chack every wires possible from the harness, I've dissassemble the whole steering column harness and switches to control everything, etc. So to the method, you should remove all the bulbs from your harness. For the park-lights fuse: sidemarkers, position lights & tail lights. That will open all the circuits. Check your system by turning it on & inspect to see if your trouble is still present (if yes, it means you have a short in your harness system). Then 1 by 1, reinstall the bulbs and check in between each of them if your trouble comes back. As soon as it comes back you can now narrow down your researches. Regarding the fuse box, you can also check the resistance between contacts to inspect for loose connection. Good luck because electrical stuffs are a pain! My topic is it could help: Very Frustrating Electrical Issue with lightsÂ

 I'm currently in process on rebuilding my engine since a lube issue damaged it. It was still running but since something was odd, I've decided to take apart the engine and inspect every oil passages to make sure everything will ok after the fix. Cam & retainers were damaged, some metal flakes ended up in the oil. I've taken apart the oil pump, it does not look so great but I'd like to know thoughts from experts There are some major scratches on the edge of the inner shaft, rotor is quite rough as well. I'm quite concerned to put it back on the engine, I don't want t have some lube issue in the future (who wants???) Head/Cam is having the internal oiled cam + spray bar. I expect to enlarge the oil restrictor by 3mm. So I'm thinking a large flow turbo oil pump might be part of my plans for the future... What do you guys think?

I daily drive a S14a which is stock (besides wheels & bushings). It is called 200sx here in Europe because I do have the SR20DET in it (and LSD). Car is very unsafe on the wet, a small hit on the throttle and the car spins, quite fun when you expect it, much less when not (such as wanting to pass somebody at WOT on highway at 80mph/4th gear & go sideways) It is more a saloon car than a sport car but to daily drive a turbo car is fun. Nistune, Eibach springs are waiting quietly in my garage... Issue as stated previously is Silvias are made to be modified, so I might throw money in it (usual bolt on: TBE, MBC, Filter, fuel pump) Dampers and brakes would be the next mod before any power stuff since stock ones are really not tuned for spirited driving.

You should check what kind of boost the T25 should be able to run based on its compressor map. With your current setup, I would believe you should be able to run optimal boost level; injectors & stock MAF might be your restrictions there if they are still stock. Stock turbo should handle 12-13psi of boost.

Those would be a grade 5 or little bit below ISO grade 8.8. I guess you should be good to go At the same time, I don't know what Nissan was using at that time (I haven't seen anything written on them)... For your info, I was using grade 10.9 on GM vehicle I have been working on.

They look ok but can you certify the grade of those bolts? At least for the structural ones. The package looks quite good but it would be nice to know it is well planned from scratch

Based on comments from everyone, it would make sense to me to change the "check the box to approve the rules" with: " Write down the following key words on rules to create your account: - I search before posting - Correct Spelling and grammar are mandatory - Etc..." That would be a way to be proactive and avoid (hopefully) useless topic & questions. I'm the first to admit rules are usually ignored when clicking the check box. Another solution will be to have automatic signature "Noob Inside" for the first 20 posts

Tony, I fully agree with you when reading your post. "Fear" in my answer was more "trying to think before posting something irrelevant" . You also have to admit we're all in front of a computer, our behavior wouldn't be the same in face to face. So "the greasy man that looks like a serial killer" in a dirty garage would feel differently than TonyD in front of a computer with a kid/noob asking to get more power from his rusty Z  (or not  )

I kind of agree with Kinser. I've never been bashed for asking questions but I felt bad asking question at some points because I feared the answer: Search! There's a lot of info that get lost or hard to find over time. I do understand it is coming from dumb topics from beginners (who hasn't been one at one point?) Afterwards, topics such as "what kind of springs?" "How to increase power?" show obviously the lack of research and should be avoided to keep the quality of the board but there're many ways to mean it. When it is your 1st post and you don't know the board, you can be discouraged and move along. Some will tell me: "good, the member was not into it enough if he left", I would believe it is sad because Z are great cars with very knowledgable community and he will never know it! It happens on the FR board no later than last week. A young owner came, first ever post was "where to buy 260z exhaust?" (and only this). The answer was "you suck, say Hi first and search!". Bottom line, he kept the car not even 1 month prior selling it because he believes Z community suck (1 rough answer from 1 member who's usually friendly). It think it is bad; next action on his side will be to spread the news about how bad are Z owners... and some people will believe it with reasons.

Are you sure you're smelling burnt fuel? I have a very smelly car, it was because some hoses in the cabin were rotten, gas vapor was going into the cabin. Replacing the hoses fixed the issue.

I don't know your carbs very well but with your setup Webers with same choke dimension do not run out of air. I don't think it would be your case. If I remeber well, Mark (RedBaron) gets 275whp out of 40DCOE with custom 36mm chokes & L31 setup. Your AFR is also quite rich at low RPM. I would try a different main and/or air jet and check how the AFR curve behaves. One more point, if you're using logworks to post treat your data, you can plot a X-Y curve with rpm vs. AFR, much easier to read

Wideband is really a must, until you get one, it would be difficult to guess what would be required. As I said earlier, timing might have to be adjusted if you never did it. Either a dyno or some software (I use Powerdyn software) would tell you if you're going the right way as far as a Best available torque at any given RPM (hard to get on old distributor on the whole power band...)

Here's the link from the French forum where you could see some pics of the distributor. http://www.datsun-france.com/forum/showpost.php?p=19284&postcount=44 There'are some Datsun fans in the south of France, some are knowledgeable (a Datsun 240z GrIV is being built over there ) To setup up your timing properly, you'll either have to do some test on our own or find a specialist to tune it right but it might cost a lot for little gains. I had a Schneinder cam (stage 2 - 274/274), the car was fun to drive (with the new Rebello cam it is even better!!!)

You can physically interchange the camshafts to any head. You'll have to make sure springs, rockers and lash pads are matching your new cam. Afterwards regarding your engine & performance, you might have to adjust your timing in order to get the most out your new combo (Detcan, AFR wideband would be a must). Since you have a mallory Unilite, it is a very simple operation to do to change your timing. Since it is free (but time consuming) you should proceed. I use several drill bits with different diameter to adjust total timing. => Looking at your location you might be close to me. If you did not have any support in France, you might want to check out French communities if it hasn't been done yet (I don't know neither your pseudo nor your setup).

you'll end up keeping it anyway since it is very useful I became the guy who can check AFR from any car. I have now a lot of new friends. I'm also always tweaking my car since my carbs are never perfect...

I was reluctant to buy it as well because of the price. I ended up buying one anyway since I haven't found one used. It is a nice engineered piece of equipment with patents on it which kind of justifies the price IMO

 I used to have a stock N42 head, Flat tops with Schneider Stage II cam and 40DCOE. With this setup, I never had any problem. Car was running strong with no fuel starvation. Now, I'm running a Port & Polish head with Rebello cam, mech fuel pump is not able to keep up; I had fuel starvation in full pull at WOT in 4th & 5th gears on highways. AFR are however quite rich (10.5AFR at WOT), it could also explain why I needed so much fuel. I had to let off, wait for 5 seconds prior to get some power again. So I've moved to a elec fuel pump and it has fixed the problem. Bottom line is if you have a nearly stock setup, you should be fine. If you have done extensive mods, mech fuel pump might be not enough. My advice would be to run your car and see how it goes; problem will only appear at high speed, your car will still be driveable even it mech pump is not good enough. It would then be time to think about upgrading your system with the confidence you need itÂ

That's good to know! I'll have to give a try someday, thanks for the tip!