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So basically my curious hypothetical correlation between displacement and cfm is pretty debunked. Well that's good. I was skeptic when I saw such a high number. I mean it's an l6 not like a 440+6... Well the panel filter should be able to easily support that much air, if I can make up my mind. Me fasha suggested building a rail inside the box and instead of making the face come off, give it a narrow lid and slide the filter down from the top so that when it needs a cleaning, nothing but the ic tube has to be removed. I made a "box" out of scrap styrofoam to my liking and we'll attempt to fab it to that shape once it looks like it will fit right.

Okay it's kinda late at night, so give me a break if I'm having a brain fart here, but I don't see the what kind of cfm ratings the stock engine intake has or should have. Is it correct to take the displacement of the engine and multiply it by half of the redline to get the total (N/A) air displacement rate? If this is the case, 2.6L is equivalent to 367cfm@8000rpm. Something then has to be added for the turbos though because the mass air is going to be higher since it is above ambient (intake) pressure. Although, that would mean if you're boosting 15psi, your intake cfm is actually double that number. For stock (which I think is 7psi boost?), that would be 542cfm at the intake. Who knows the actual number? My design calls for a 6X10 K&N filter, which looks like it's 450cfm-ish. The k&n website doesn't say what the ratings are, but I've comparing filters by looking at how much oil it says to use on them. Based on this the round cone filters seem to be better in general than the panel ones.

"However, it doesn't look as if it would fit this rendering exactly -- which is not a bad thing." Ha! BOO YA!

Maybe it's just my skepticism but the headlights on the orange car look potoshopped big time around the edges. Neither of the hoods are very intimidating. The silver one looks like it has the hood of a 90s mustang, not in a good way. From the little to be seen of the back half, the silver one is still much better. The quarter window is a lot like the late 60s chevelles. That one still has the bulgy sideways door handle, which leads me to believe they still don't know where to put it, because in both cases it was totally cropped in after the fact. The orange one also has an extra sharp edge spanning down the side of the car that doesn't function very well, especially with its intersection with the headlights and front fender. And those canines are soo pointless. They would probably be the main reason people buy new or after market bumpers because they keep snapping them off when they bump something. Also, the grill makes some sort of smashed chevy logo. No thanks.

I spent some time on google looking for oversize rings for an l24 and was able to find some part numbers. Most people (ebay) just want to sell the rings and pistons together, so just the ring kit is harder to find. ITM-021-1431, add -010, -020, -030 for oversize of your choice Clevite #MHL-50983 must specify 20 over (some add .02) (chrome top #40983.02) Federal-Mogul #E-399X .50 Hastings #6856 ? must specify 020 over Grant #1297 020 Beck/Amley #013-3504

Yes note how the bulge in the hood intersecting with the bumper doesn't make sense. Also, the doorhandles are different. And those awful fangs in the grill. The headlights are totally different. The quarter window is basically upside down. The wheel scoop is added... There's actually very little about these two cars that is the same. I sure hope the gray one is the real one. I did enjoy how barf comes out his nose though.

Okay, so how about a hommade box for the intake? A 6x10x4" enclosure of sorts featuring a panel type filter and a duct out the front scooping air from the holes in the radiator wall. The mafs bolt right on to the back of it plumbed with a few hoses to their respective turbo inlets. The box would be relatively easy to make out of sheet aluminum and a lip on the inside under the screw on face to seal the filter down when it's closed. To clean the filter I would have to unbolt the mafs and slip out the ic pipe, but it's not that big of a deal. I actually thought of incorporating a vacuum meter gauge on the back so I could see how the filter is doing. Wouldn't that be neat? A 6x10 filter would be good enough airflow right? I'm sure the oem filter was a little larger but they always have crazy ducting rather than pointing straight forward, and are the cheap paper type--supposedly washable k&n filters do twice the flow rate as the disposable type. Eh?

That's a very interesting idea. It might also be easier in the long run. The good news is I already have a bunch of 3" tube. Making a true Y collector could prove to be too challenging for me, so I figure the easiest alternative is to make a triangle plate to angle out the two halves into a vault a little more than twice the original height with a flat plate closing the end and two individual tubes coming straight off of it. Actually, I could probably then taper the edges of the tubes before welding them on to angle the exits a little in favor of the direction to the mafs. I have to make sure there's enough vertical space for the two tubes to be directly on top of each other though. I would probably buy all the hoses and fittings that won't weld together, assemble it towards the center, and then figure out exactly how short this collector is to be made etc. Hell if I can figure out how to make a standard y union work it would be worth the money. It's just that they always split at 120 degrees and it would be a pretty tight fit that way. The ideal type would be more like a dual exhaust union flipped around... We'll see. I drew up what I'm talking about to clarify, but my scanner doesn't want to work today!

I was also wondering if any of you guys just lathed off the flange from your maf and slipped a silicone connector over it? It would save a little space and solve a problem if I have to connect a tube end to the maf, like from an angle and using a reducer--the silicone piece could cut out the middleman (an extra aluminum bend). No thoughts?

If anyone has a better idea I'm open to suggestions. Pictures of your setup would be great. Keep in mind I'm doing my intake through the stock form using the original rubber flex tube that came with the motor. I don't know if this is how anyone else has done it so far. I'm going for function, not form. Also trying to keep costs down. Shoot if I had a mandrel this would have been one fine piece of cake...

I've got an idea for how I would like to make the turbo intakes, but for it to be desirable I need two 4" 45 degree aluminum elbows. There are only a couple for sale on ebay and they cost a fortune for some reason. I could do it with 3" pipes but I would like to keep the flow as free as possible. Does anyone have any leftover intercooler piping they would be willing to part with? I'm going to scan a crude drawing later tonight of what it should look like when it is done.

Ouch! That sucks. I always new fram was on the low end, but sometimes you just look at the outside and think a filter is a filter. I bought mine for the exact same reason you did. I plan on changing the oil again after a 500 mile break in. I don't know if what happened to your engine concerns me much right now, but either way I will definitely be steering clear from fram in the future. Thanks for the heads up. The filter study actually sounds pretty scary indeed. I speculate it could be a combination of things that ruined your day, prominently the failing bearing easily clogging the low surface area filter element. Of course every time I hear the word "plastic" I think of another critical component that's going to fall apart. Just a really sad day.

I actually sharpened them just for the laughs. If I cut off a finger I want it to at least be a clean cut. ;p

I should have a poll to see if this horn I scored should be mounted on my hood. I forgot about the injector resistors for a while. Here's the pack made out of heat shrink. The odd thing is that my ohmmeter says something like 8ohms even though they are labeled 6ohm. I don't know if this will be a problem or not but we'll see. The turbo inlet flange after the two pieces being flush welded and sanded smooth. Can't even tell they were once separate. The aluminum fan shroud. The tray is about an inch deep with a rolled tunnel around the hole. So far just primer black. The side view of the fan shroud including the newly installed temp switch for the fan.

Well there's plenty of room now. When I get my custom fan shroud from the shop it's all getting filled.

The new larger fuel tank lines. The pressure line never did seal well so I ended up silver soldering the crush fitting together at the seams. The tank after silver soldering. The solder cracked at first, possibly due to cooling so quickly (full of water), but after pressure testing and resoldering a problem area several times it eventually sealed up good and tight. After the first coat of rubberized underbelly paint. Don't be confused by the size of my old oil pressure sender, it's actually a kiddie chair. To work with my stock oil pressure gauge. I'm starting to feel like a Fram sponsor, because it always seems to be conveniently posed. The new front turbo flange and inlet. Hopefully the last of the ic accessories. One cut and we're good to go. Two cuts on this side of different lengths. Definitely not an exact science. I'll only end up using one of the hump hoses after all. It was supposed to be blue as well, but the seller mailed me the wrong ones and refused to return them. What a prick. In retrospect all black couplers would have been safer. The reducers look more purplish in real life and in turn make the engine look a little greenish, while the elbow looks more bright blue than the engine, so it's all a bit mismatch, but oh well--that's what the hood is for.

Yeah... Got it! We're on the same team here, I was agreeing with Ron. Turbines, as in gas turbine engines: no carb here. Revving too quickly causes a compressor stall. I wasn't asking what a trigger wheel was, I was asking if all the major aftermarket em's incorporate the crank disk method or if there are some that go a different route, seeing as how the stock ecu seems to work fine without the use of a big ugly disk and a magnet... But I digress. I guess it is best to search around for the ecu's that work best, rather than discuss it in a thread titled "which ecu's work best"...

Oh, slow transition to different attitudes. I now understand what he meant by jam. Yes, turbines don't like that much. I wasn't saying pilots gunning it is why they worry about having two wheels for redundancy, I was just saying it's an idea, proof of theory. The real reason they have two wheels doesn't apply to cars at all... Anyway!! How bout them dodgers... How about, which aftermarket ems don't use the wheel? I'm always one of those, there-has-to-be-a-better-way kinda guy. Can they not talk to the stock cas? Cut out the middleman, or rather, don't add that greedy middleman in the first place, right?

What do you mean by transition? They certainly speed up and slow down... The orientation of the shaft in this case isn't used for fuel metering and the like, I'll give you that. The synchrophase system however is to keep the rpm of both engines and alternate the blades passing by the cockpit for noise and vibration suppression. I'm thinking since they are governed, WOT would only prove to be not so efficient for cruise flight. But no, I've never personally flown...

I'm not sure that a high spike is actually a good thing... I dunno, that gas tank looks pretty buff. Yeah I'm thinking on the same track there. If the drive shaft breaks it's pretty much time to call it a day anyhow. Still, I guess I should probably not plan on lining my transmission tunnel with flint or anything.

It seems like if a system counted every sixth tooth or something of that nature, and there was some sort of error and it missed one, such as with belt tension changes, it would be like a chain skipping a tooth and from then on be off by one. If there are key teeth however, then I guess the extras could be for redundancy? I can't imagine that the ecu would get that far behind, far enough to cause a real scheduling difference. I mean if in the time of one revolution, which is like .01 seconds, the rpm jumped from 5000 to 5500, then the ecu would be behind about .001 seconds. But I guess I'll just trust the engineers that designed the thing. Either way belt stretch would keep the ecu from ever being 100% accurate, the only difference would seem to be in keeping it from recounting or skipping teeth so that a miss wouldn't ripple into the next cycle. But like I said, if there are key teeth, it fixes itself on the next cycle such as in the way you suggested drilling a hole at tdc. Food for thought, on some twin engine planes with systems that syncrophase the propellers, I've noticed that the control unit gets two signals from wheels mounted behind each prop. One wheel has 60 or so teeth and is strictly used to determine the rpm of the prop, and the other wheel has one tooth for each blade to determine the phase angle. In this analogy the phase angle would be like the crank tdc, only of course on props there are more than one position to worry about.

I'm not understanding why there are so many notches in the first place. Couldn't they simply have one for tdc and program the ecu to figure it out? I'm super new to the whole idea though. I guess someone will just tell me I should search to find out more about how it works...

Negative. He just liked the look of it being upright. The only obstacle is the shifter. I don't remember how that was solved, but I could speculate. While I believe Marc had the whole car professionally built, I'm not suggesting it takes a genius to make a car like his. I don't want to sound like a hypocrite, but the main reason I bought Rick's mounts myself is because I "didn't have the time" to make my own. Surely Marc's car doesn't have the posts in the stock position though. You could probably use rick's mounts just the same and "simply" move the posts back as far as you want--but I guess at that point, you might as well be making your own mounts anyway. I wonder if anyone skips the middleman and makes new posts that line up to the rb mounts or something of that nature. For a stress free stock application however, Rick's mounts are second to none. ...But hot damn Mark's z is sexy.

That was oddly specific. 40 amps! wow. Is it a manual switch to go into high speed? I can't imagine a motor like that would fit in my bay though--same reason why I ended up not going with the cruiser fan, which also had two speeds, one ridiculously high one that it automatically goes into if it gets a little hot. I could have scored that fan for free too, but it was about 5" thick and would probably still rub the ati damper. I think it pulls about 30 amps... Wow, that's a pretty scary thought. Either way I'd be screwed, but if there's any line that could be impervious to severing, it would be this stuff. I think it's even rated at over 200psi. Ruber, wrapped in steel braid, wrapped in rubber: surely tougher than the original lines. But I guess if someone rolled a grenade under there...

With the disclaimer that it probably depends a little on your application, the supra mounts went straight together in about five minutes. With the dodge mounts I wasn't sure how people were suggesting they would go in except for a compiled theory that the engine would sit lower and closer to the firewall, so the engine went in, out, in, out, in, out, and then I went back to the store. It now sits safely away from the steering rack, the hood closes, and the driveline is pretty much a straight shot back. I don't think I would want it to sit any lower than it already is, I just got swayed by the hope that I would have more room in front and save money by getting the cheaper alternatives. If you want your engine to hug the firewall, you're probably going to have to either move the posts themselves or design your own mounts that are more offset. I know Mark Rolston's z fits both the radiator and the intercooler on the inside of the bay and the opening in the front looks pretty sweet. However, I'm not Mark Rolston.