BRAD D

it is from japan. I think it is to help swap in some sort of R200??

I have a griffen in my car, and when I was running my L24 the altenator got in the way of the lower inlet because it was angled in. so if you could get it with non-angled inlets it would fit better.

I might just do that, or try and tuck the lines beside the sump.

So, if I can come up with a M-bar that is from any 280Z that has a R200 in it, you'll trade me for a sump straight across? yep You are talking about just the rear bar that goes behind the diff right? yep I think the 76 and up 280z had R200s in them.

I blocked off all my other lines, using the old feed as a return and a vent from the top of the tank. Im not saying that that is the best thing to do but that is what I did. As far as parts to swap for a sump, I am in the middle of a RB26 swap, so the parts Im looking for are to swap in an R200 diff. So I need the M-bar that holds the diff. so I need all 280Z parts.

We could work some thing out. I dont think shipping would be too much. I would even trade for some parts, M-bar or 280 Stub/flange?? let me know. here are some tips on the install 1. Remove tank from car. 2. Remove fuel level sending unit from tank. 3. Wash tank with a pressure washer, or have steam cleaned. 4. Sand blast or grid bottom of tank to make it easier to weld. 5. Position sump on tank with the fuel fittings facing the rear of the car. 6. Trace around the outside of the sump with a marker. 7. Remove sump and with a 1.5" hole saw drill a pattern in the bottom of the tank, being careful not to make a hole over the traced line. 8. Clean out metal chips in tank. 9. Position and weld sump in place. NOTE: tack the sump in a lot of places, because when the tank heats up from welding it will pull away from the sump, making a big gap to fill with weld. 10. Check for leaks. 11. Paint tank with good quality paint like POR15.

I would say for 300HP EFI -6 should be good. The Aeromotive 800hp fuel pump i have dumps out at -6. You use the stock sending unit, But when it shows empty you will still have a full sump, not that you should run the tank that low.

The Headunit has to go... if you give me some specs I can draw it up on AUTOcad for you and send you the file, then you can send it to a laser cutter near you?

Here are som photos before the install

2-1/16" in the custom consol 2-5/8" in the dash 5" thach / speedo held in by 1/5"x1/5" foam tape/weather strip

I made it to fit stock Z tank. If any of you are interested, my friend that owns a custom metal fab shop will make them for 60$. They are laser cut and tig welded, and come with any two Earl's fittings you want welded to them in any location.

http://s-garage.hp.infoseek.co.jp/sonota.htm Here is a translation from http://babelfish.altavista.com ???? for 408.58 U.S Companion * side flange for diff. As for this commodity, when the K / the GC10, 110 and 111, S liking to install the diff. of R 200 in 30 and 31 Z and the like, the diff. of R 200 medieval times (quotation 1 ten thousand? 5 ten thousand) If so you search and install this SET it is completion of the diff. for description above. Furthermore at the same time the skyline R31 (the GTS) and the like being to be the genuine LSD attaching, if you find, super being cheap, completion of the R200 non pickpocket equipped diff.. Presently the propeller * drive shaft of use that way connection. As for installation only volt/bolt * nut removing exchange.

what spot should i put the HKS boost controoler and the SDS rich/lean controll, SDS controller??

Am i crazy to try and fit 26x10.6R15 ET STREETs under my stock fenders?? I have GC coilovers and I would go to a 8" springs for the extra room. Pete P has a tire with a 10.5 sectoin width under his stock fenders, So would this fit?? Also if could get this to work how quick of a 60' time do you think i could pull?? How much better than my 225/45R17 G-Force DR's?? they have a section width of 9.2" Here is my set up now

I'm 6' and I fit nice, lots of room.

Autometer Ultra-lites. No Timer, just a boost controller. Need to find a spot for all of that.....

They are 17x7 Motegi MR7's I paid 225$ CAD for them, they are heavy at 23lbs. you need honda wheel adapters to run them.

The injector I have is from an GLS-SE RX7. 680cc How much should I pay for them? If I can find some in junck yards I will get them for 10$, but the people who have them think they are worth 50-100$ and I can get NEW Blitz injectors for 110$

just got back from my car in the grage, and the RX7 injectors fit!!! just a bit tighter. I was just eyeing them up before. So now i will have it cleaned and flow checked. Thanks for your reply.

So i picked up a RX7 injector today to try and get more cc's to my RB26, but it looks like the pintle cap is 2mm too big. Other than that if would fit fine. The reason i picked one up is because RX7 injector's come in 550cc's and 680cc's and 720cc's. I know 720cc would be too big but the others would be nice. so my question is can I make the RX7 ones fit with a bigger rubber?, Is ther another cheep way out? can i run the RX7 ones with out the pintle cap? Or will I have to dish out 660$ min for some new Blitzs injectors (the lowest $$$ i could find)?

The carbon fiber Dash is very cool, good for racing, it dose not look like stock it looks better. you can see the carbon mat through the clear resin.