Blown77Z

Curious why you are running 2 diff volt meter guages???

I've narrowed down the Centerforce DF clutch as my clutch of choice for the 02 LS1/T56, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CTF%2DDF017010&N=700+115&autoview=sku Summit's site states: "This clutch assembly requires the replacement of the hydraulic cylinder with GM part number 12565145. The GM part includes the cylinder and release bearing." NOTE, this part number has been changed by GM to: 15046288 GM Part, which is $132 dollars and is NON-RETURNABLE: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm and type in 15046288 (won't keep search result active with link) Has anyone replaced their stock units with the above parts? I'm wondering if they changed any dimension of the fittings with the new part and if the mcleod quick connect line and fittings with work with it (that I have already).... Would like this swap to go as easy as possible without long delays Sorry for the rambling on, trying to clarify so many different parts and their compatibility is kind of frustraiting.

What bellhousing are you running? The JTR manual says to use the .75" bore Tilton for a Camaro bellhousing and a 13/16" bore for a Corvette bellhousing. For .75" bore http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=TIL-75-750U&FROM=MG

You need the tilton master on the car to better match up with the clutch slave in order to get enough pressure in your line to fill the clutch slave properly. The stock unit will not do. You will need to mount your washer reservior in a different location.

I just purchased a NEW taurus fan from Ebay for $85 shipped. Wouldn't want my LS1 taking a dump because a tired 10+ year old fan took a vacation

I just purchased my 02 LS1 w/ T56 The engine will also come w/ ECU, engine harness and all related accessories. JTR headers, radiator w/ mount kit, and air induction plumbing ordered as well. Placing my order with JCI for my mounts, vital liquids set, and fuel pump on Tuesday. The LS1 wasn't my original plan (Blown SBC), but I believe in the long run it will be more reliable/suitable for a DD w/ a few passes down the drag strip every now and then. Plus, I can always build it up and throw a blower on it down the road I'll post pics once I get everything

Thanks Xander ! Were there any burs or metal shavings on them when you received them? Also, what headers are you using.... JTR ?

Anyone have any experience with these heads? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PATRIOT-SBC-CHEVY-ALUMINUM-CYLINDER-HEADS-2-02-VALVES_W0QQitemZ260200853585QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33617QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Was thinking of buying some for my build...

Oops, yeah it's a 280. I was planning on cutting them off. Out of curiosity anyone know why they were put on to begin with? Maybe a jack or jackstand location?

I started removing the underbody coating on my frame rails tonight and have a quick question. Did you guys remove the little tabs/wings when you installed your rails or did you put the rails up flush with them? Here's a pic of the tabs/wings I'm talking about...

datsun40146, thanks for that thought! I had been thinking about my brake setup and my drums are the ONLY thing I haven't touched since I started trying to fix the brakes. The drums were my next step. Thanks again for thatr little tip, I'll try that here soon.

The MC is also new, I replaced that before I found the fluid in the booster. I'm thinking there is still some more air in the MC or lines themselves. I'm going to do another round of bleeding the MC and all 4 corners...again, ugh.

I got the remanufactured booster installed tonight and tested out the brakes again. I'm still not happy with the feel of the brake pedal. With the car ON the pedal will go down about 1.5 to 2 inches or so then start to grab. With the car OFF the brakes get rock hard after 3-4 pumps. With the car ON I tested the brakes again without the vacuum hose attached and the pedal was rock hard and would barely move... I shook the booster before I put it on and didn't hear the reaction disk bouncing around. I measured the adjustment rod on both units and they were VERY close in measurement, but I could go back and recheck the clearance between the rod and MC. Could there just be more air in the line/MC that I haven't bled yet or is having about 1.5 to 2 inches of pedal throw "normal" ???

I have the MSA ones and they fit like a glove. Not sure on the Black Dragon ones.

Thanks for the reply. I figured the booster was toast when I poured about a 1/2 qt of black fluid from it I'm going to order me a new booster today.

Tonight I thought I would tackle the task of taking out my brake booster to see if the reaction disk had fallen out of place since I was having some brake issues; good brakes when car is off and sloppy brakes when car is on. When I finally got the booster off the firewall I tried shaking it to see if I could hear anything bounce around in it and some fluid came out of the vacuum nipple. I must have drained at least a 1/2 qt of brake fluid from that damn thing My question is should I go ahead and buy a remanufactured one or try to drain the rest of the fluid out and try the old one? Thanks

I finally got a chance to put on the POR-15 today and I also hit some misc stuff such as behind the door weatherstrip, it had some little rusty spots and the rear deck area where the hatch closes down on. I love this stuff !!!

I talked to MSA yesterday and confirmed I didn't receive the inner seals for the glass to frame, Part # 76836. I received 2 other pieces instead, ugh. I called again today and they are suppose to ship out the inner seals tomorrow.

I received my Precision weatherstrip kit today from MSA. I've figured out some of the pieces by trial and error, but some pieces have me utterly confused. I'm having problems figuring out which piece is for the inner seal on the quarter panel that goes between the glass and frame... I took some pictures for reference to go with this issue. Here's are pictures of what I think should be the inner seal on the quarter panel. I have 2 of these in the kit. One side is coated with a velvet type material. and IF this is the piece, is the velvet side suppose to be for the glass to rest in AND where does the "90 degree" bend sit??? I have 4 more similar pieces without the little spongy piece on the 90 degree bend, here's what they look like: and ALL six pieces are equal in length, but I only have 4 pieces of glass to which they could possible go to. Could 2 of them be for T-Tops? One thing I did notice was these pieces, when wrapped on the inside of the frame on the quater panel, are to long. Are these pieces in the kit made that way and need to be trimmed accordingly? I also have 2 of these, which are about 18" long with no velvet crap on them. WTF are these for... and