Blown77Z

One of the first things I did was rebuild the turn signal switch. I'll look at it again to see if it's sending power from the middle wire to the turn signal wires...

Now I'm really lost/irritated. I replaced the cloumn flasher unit with a brand new one from Autozone. I spliced the wires from the hazard switch to give me power to the combination switch on the column (middle wire on the switch), and still NO turn signals whatsoever.... The hazards work just fine. Is there another flasher unit somewhere that I missed???

I'm having the same problem on my 77. I just installed the hazard switch (cleaned and reworked), which solved that problem, but still no turn signals. I tested every connection combination tonight and they all seemed good. I want to replace the "Turn Signal Flasher Unit" under the steering column to knock that possiblity out. Doc Hawk, where did you find a new flasher unit for under the column??? Thanks in advance.

Very nice results from your upgrades ! Are you running the T56 transmission? And what size slicks are those? LSD? Thanks.

AMEN to that !

I plumbed the return from my FP regulator. The bottom fitting is the return line.

JSM, I did spell it wrong, wow... fastzcars, that's the one I was looking for, thanks ! StreetGlide07, if you decide to go the V8 route, this is the place to do it ! Shoot me a PM if you have any LS1 questions in the future. Thanks guys for pointing me in the right direction

I'm looking for the thread that a member put up in reference to a write up he did on a 280zxt axel conversion using bolt on parts? I have searched and cannot find this thread to save my life !

I recently found a OBDII plug and have been doing a little reading on how to wire it up and want to make sure the wiring schematic is correct before I cut the harness. Here's a picture of the plug from ls1tech. I simply splice the purple wire from the OBDII plug into the dark green wire (PIN 58) on the blue PCM module? 58 DK GRN 1049 Serial Data Thanks

From what I remember on my 77 Z the plugs for the dash wiring was the blue and black plugs underneath the passenger side of the dash. It sounds like you have a loose/bad ground wire somewhere...... I would check ALL your ground wire connections first.

Update: I replaced the filter today with a brand new one. The old one had some rusty metal flakes in it since I last cleaned it (3-4 days ago). I need to monitor it like Phantom mentioned to make sure my fuel tank is not rusting on the inside.......ugh.

Thanks for the info Phantom, I'll check on it again in the near future. I did have the tank boiled and recoated earlier in the year before I put the engine in, so maybe that is the reason it got so dirty. Thanks again guys !

I found the problem !!! The fuel filter was VERY dirty. I cleaned it out really good to unclog the buildup for a temporary fix until my replacement filters come in from Summit. I ordered 2 filters for down the road to limit any future downtime. It really surprised me to see the filter soooo dirty with only 1900 miles on the swap ! One snag I have is the way I have my feed line laid out. I have to wait for the tank to get close to empty before I can check the filter or I risk dumping a lot gas out of the tank, which I wound up doing anyway, about 1/2 gallon Anyway, one thing I did notice right away was the needle on the FP gauge was solid at 58 PSI, so I knew I was heading in the right direction with it. Took it out for spin and DAMN, strong pull all the way to redline in 3rd and 4th before I let out of it about 110mph Phantom: The battery tested out just fine too according to the machine at Auto Zone.

The voltage at the battery when the car is off is 12.5v......... Now, where's my receipt for it, hehe.

EDIT, I just ran another test just now and here's the results. Battery is at 13.4v Tested at the fuel pump terminal: Fuel pump voltage is 12.4v-12.6v at IDLE Fuel pump voltage is 12.1v.12.2v at WOT You really think it's a dead cell in the battery ?

I installed new power and ground wires for the fuel pump yesterday and tested voltage again. Voltage ranged from 11.4 - 11.9v on idle and dropped to almost 10v on WOT ! So I believe there's something in the wiring, maybe the relay itself? Going to check the filter later on today. BTW, I forgot to mention the needle on the FP gauge attached to the regulator bounces back and forth between 58-56 psi really fast on idle.....

Aziza, did you test for voltage on the pump terminals themselves? Your readings were in the 11.0 - 11.5v range correct? And my fuel pump from JCI is not that old either, been running it for about 5 months now...

Aziza, I found your thread you made regarding your fuel pump issues; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135835&highlight=bad+regulator How did you resolve your issue?

I believe the fuel pump relay is fine. I didn't see a voltage drop from the power wire leading to the pump when I gave it gas. Next step I'll check the filter before the fuel pump. BTW, I noticed today after driving the car to work the fuel pressure was reading about 5-7 PSI lower at idle than normal (58 psi). Could this be a sign of the fuel pump failing?

It's a fuel related issue. Under WOT my FP drops to around 20 PSI I'm going to check the fuel pump relay first. Not sure why I didn't think of this before, but for the past few weeks the relay won't kick on the first time the key is turned over making me have to play with it a little to make it work. I think it might be a loose connection on the relay itself. Next, I'll check to see if voltage to the fuel pump drops when I give it gas. Off for diagnoses...

Mark, I just checked on the plug wires and the plug wire on Cylinder 3 was loose !!! I will test it in about an hour or so when I drive it to work. Aziza, I'm using the in-line pump from JCI. I will check the FP gauge under the hood while I'm revving the engine to see if it drops under WOT if the "loose wire fix" don't work... Keep the suggestions coming guys ! Thanks, Tim

Yesterday while driving to work I was passing some "slow" driver on the highway when I noticed the power kind of die off. When I passed another "slow" driver a few seconds later I watched the RPMs this time and around 5k or so the car seems to hit a wall on power, or lack of power.... I played with it again this morning coming back home from work and around 5k or so under moderate throttle it seems fine, but under full throttle it seems to hit a wall. The car doesn't stumble or hesitate, but it does make a weird noise like it needs more fuel. Here's my observations on the issue: 1. Car doesn't pull after 5k under WOT, but makes a weird noise. 2. RPMs don't rise after 5k, needle just kind of stays there. 3. Fuel pump is kind of loud, but has been this way before. My initial and worst fear is the clutch is going out. But, the RPMs don't rise when this is happening.... My second thought was the FP, I checked it last night and under idle it's 58 PSI, I still need to check it under WOT, but don't have a gauge in the car yet. I'm starting to think it's fuel related. Either the injectors are dirty (never cleaned them) or the fuel filter is getting clogged. Any other suggestions?

I just sprayed my dash tonight with the texture coating after finishing the SEM bumper repair. I'll scuff sand it tomorrow and apply a few coats of the SEM Trim Black. BTW, If you work with the SEM bumper repair, make sure you DO NOT mix a bunch up at once and use what you mix FAST, because in less then 1 minute it starts to cure

Sweet, that's VERY close to the time I ran with my LS1 setup in the 1/8th; 8.36@90.87

The SEM bumper repair is now spread and dried on the dash, I'm going to go buy an orbital sander and sand it down in a bit, I'll post some pics of the dash after it is sanded.