Blown77Z

What RPM is the engine at in 5th gear @ 35 mph? My LS1+T56 has a terrible bog in 6th gear if the RPM is @ 1.5k or lower. Have you checked for any squeals while the tranny is in neutral? Try running the RPMs up and down while in neutral.

I bought Moog ball joints for my 77 280z. They've been working great so far.

Thanks ! I think they look great too ! Here's a picture of me sitting in the seat. I did measure the actual seat with me sitting in it, there was no change in seat/roof measurement. Final install

NOW for the measuring write up for you guys ALL of the following pictures are from the drivers side mount. I assumed the mount was equal on the passenger side too..... I'm 5'11 and they fit me GOOD Rear mounting bracket Front mounting bracket Measured from the rear bracket to the front bracket, outer edge to outer edge Length of the front bracket Length of the rear bracket Height of the rear bracket Headroom measurement

I've been looking for quite some time now for some nice seats to replace the 30+ year old ragged out seats in my 77 280z. Well, now I have some ! I picked these up from misterZ on the board yesterday. Cool guy to talk to with some nice toys in the yard These are 03? S2000 seats that were already modified to fit the 280z chassis, PERFECT find for me!

Electrical system: Did you put a test meter on the wires BEFORE wiring it up? If not well............ Fuel system: Are your braided fuel lines brand new? If they aren't new, check them GOOD, I had a similar problem when I got my car back on the road. I had no fuel coming from the pump to the rail. Turns out it was my fuel line...it had ruptured on the top of the line, so it didn't leak any fuel (an obvious sign of a bad line) and was pulling in air from the ruptured portion making a gurgling sound thru the line when it tried to start Are you using an adjustable FPR near the fuel rail?

There is a digital 240-280z in the new Disney Cars 2 movie

That would be AWESOME! Definately let me know the next time you come down to Pensacola My LS1 is bone stock w/ the exception of the Sanderson headers and a cold air induction kit. I'm also running a single 2.5 exhaust out the back of the car. I'm looking at adding an e-cutout and underdrive pulley soon to free up some HP. My goal on street tires is a 7.99, so I'm VERY close to it

A little wheelspin from 1st-2nd shift, nothing really bad. And a little wheelspin off the line around 2.3-2.4k rps launch. The car bogged a tad off the line at 2k even, so finding the "sweet" spot is a pain... I did launch it higher, closer to 3k, on an earlier run and spun the tires ALL the way to redline LOL and ran a 8.3x

I posted a NEW best time last night @ the Emerald Coast Dragway 1/8th mile. I ran a new best of 8.02 @ 92 on 245/45/16 Toyo tires set to 25 psi I JUST got the car back on the road after 2+ years of paint and body work. I wasn't planning on running anything spectacular since I'm rusty on the track, guess that wasn't the case..... Was mainly focused on getting the right RPM launch settings figured out with the T56 setup. Was dumping the clutch around 2-2.3k RPMs getting 1.97 60fts. I've cut 1.85 60s before, so I need to work on those too. I also ran a 8.08, 8.05 and then the 8.02, pretty consistent I say ! Needless to say I was STOKED at last night's runs

A LOT of work is an understatement The bulk of the cost included the air compressor, paint, and paint guns was around 900-1,000, plus an additional 100-200 in various sanding pads, body filler, etc... and at LEAST 100+ hours of work over the past 19 months or so. I wanted the experience of doing it myself, but I will NEVER do this again LOL. There's no question about it, a professional WILL do a better job That's why it costs so much, they deserve it.

Base coat / Clear coat DONE. Finished the car, took ALOT longer than I expected (19 months total). I still need to polish out the clearcoat. Has a little orangepeel in it, but I knew it wasn't going to be perfect. It looks 100% better outside in the sunlight than it does under garage lighting. Will I do this much body work / complete paint job again.......NOPE NOW to get it put back together, mount the front bumper, install front/rear glass, change oil, replace fuel then MAYBE I can drive the car again! What a HELL of a journey this has been LOL.

More pictures of 3.0 work. It's NOT 100% perfect, however, it's 100% OK by me. I didn't expect it to come out looking like a professional did it I just want this thing back on the road.

Body work / primer 3.0 COMPLETE. Sprayed the primer on this afternoon. I've worked on this car off and on for the past 3-4 months (again). I had to add to some of the body work to make it right this time. First coat of primer: Third coat: First coat: Third coat:

This is what I don't like about that bumper... I'll be doing something very similar to mine when I get around to it.

Replace your bushing in your transverse link too.

Could you post pictures of your engine setup !!! This is going into a S30 chassis right?

Well, your car IS an OUTLAW!

I had my stock 280z tank boiled/recoated for me. It works great.... however, I had to add inlet/outlet fuel fittings for my aftermarket fuel lines. I do believe the 280z gas tank was the only one that came with internal baffles... I'm also using a high flow external inline fuel pump bought from JCI and an Aeromotive filter and FP regulator. The stock wiring was fine on my car for the fuel pump. You can have the STOCK ECU flashed for cheap. VATS, secondary O2 sensors, EGR, AIR is what most people have removed from the programming. This is what I did for my swap. Wait4meperformance

Cable knows his **** for sure ! All of the previous responses hit on the MAJOR portions of the swap. Just follow most of the build threads to get an idea of what other people did. That's what I did when I built mine. Another thing you will have to think about is the rear end. The stock 240 R180 rear end with the stock axles = eventual failure behind the LSX...

I'm using different guns for the base and primer The paint was strained into the spray gun canister and the gun was cleaned prior to spraying !! Still leaning towards application error (to far away). I'm going to find out next time I spray for sure ! I'm going to put a light coat over the "fixed" areas like you mentioned, not just clear coat it....it looks horrible atm lol.

Yeah, it's tiring to say the least! I've been working on the body off and on for the past 4 months or so, maybe longer I don't recall anymore lol. I'm almost to the point where I say the hell with it and leave it as it sits I have a new found respect for the body/paint PROS out there that do this daily! Now I know why professional work costs so much for a GOOD product !

Good advice I'm leaning more towards material application since this is my first paint job. I'm using the tcpglobal HVLP spray gun kit. Base coat tip size is 1.4 on my gun. My compressor size is more than enough CH 3.2hp 60g compressor. Air pressure is set to 29psi at the inlet (10psi at tip). My materials are Limco paint and transtar primers. ALL materials are compatible and bought from same supplier. All materials; base coat, hardener, reducer are measured with proper equipment My paint supplier told me I can recoat the base with no problem after I wetsand it.

I'm in the process of fixing the low spots/body work areas again. I could see them clear as day once the color was sprayed Yes, block sanding is a must for me and anyone doing bodywork however, I know the final product will NOT be perfect or show car quality. I've already accepted that I will have some areas that aren't perfect, but to me it will be a great success and learning experience for sure !!!

I just called my paint supplier / painter and he told me I can use 600+ and wet sand them down until they are gone and then check to see if I have to re-apply the base or not. I just rolled the car into the sunlight to see how the paint looks outside and wow it looks good IMO !