Blown77Z

What were your 1/8th mile times??? Thanks.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123189 There ya go. I've started on mine already Ordered all the material yesterday and already have the cracks filled and sanded. GL

Tonight I finally got the chance to run the LS1 swap down the local 1/8th mile strip, Emerald Coast Dragway. I can't scan the time slip for some reason /shrug. My very first and best run of the night I spun the hell out of the tires shifting from first to second gear. Here's my very first run with the car. Reaction + .8990 60 ft 2.15 1/8 ET 8.36 1/8 MPH 90.87 My second run of the night I ran a 8.59 @ 89.79MPH. It was a little later in the evening and the track was getting a little damp due to the weather Suspension/Wheel setup: Stock suspension all the way around with 16x8 rims running on 245/45/16 Toyo T1Rs. With a little more seat time and practice I should be able to get it in the 8.2X range on street tires

Nice runs. Could you tell me what your ETA and MPH was on the 1/8th mile part of your ticket. Thanks.

Here's the link for the JCI LS1 mount kit to get you started. http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm You'll need to print out the order form, fill it out and send it in with your payment. Be sure to include any notes for them if something is different on your car. BTW, I would buy your LS1 radiator, air intake setup, and LS1 headers (Sanderson) from JTR. I did and they work great ! ALSO, download and read the guide from this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123533 It will save you a ton of time and headaches. GL

Feels good doesn't it? The clutch break-in will seem like an eternity! hehe. Just don't forget to check your lug nuts so you don't have my experience to deal with...

Update: I got the brakes bleed today and got the replacement fender mounted on the car. I wired up the headlight and side marker as well. Looks GOOD too ! I did a quick test drive up to about 20mph or so and noticed a little bit of shaking, but I do need to get it aligned for sure now !!!

Update: The passenger side suspension is done. Replaced the lower arm, tie rod, spring assembly yesterday and got everything tightened down. Got the driver's side rotor assembly replaced as well. Now I need to bleed the brakes and put the other fender on the car. Then hope the car drives straight......

No spacers.

I just got back with the "new" parts I need ! I now own a 78 Gold 280z (Automatic) and a 73 Green 260z (Manual). I guess it's a 260. The 260? has old school gold mesh Enkie 14" rims on it ! The best part is the 280z interior is almost PERFECT in condition and I needed a full interior I'll be parting out the 260 when I get time to actually get the parts off..... Tomorrow begins the resurection !

I just put in about 5 hours of pulling the busted parts off the car. Most of the time was figuring out how to remove the body panels that weren't in the best of shape. ALL of the bent/broken/twisted/damaged parts have been removed from the passenger side. My observance of the damage... 1. The entire front passenger suspension setup is FUBAR. Removed. 2. Passenger fender, headlight w/cover is FUBAR. Removed. 3. I massaged the piece of the frame that holds the hood hinge back in "shape". 4. I still need to remove the front sway bar and driver's rotor since both are damaged. I checked the frame rail on the engine side where the passenger mount bolts to it and there seems to be a slight wrinkle in it, not much. But, I can't remember if that was already there before I put the LS1 in........ I carefully looked around that area and nothing else seems out of alignment. I cranked her up after I pulled the parts off and she ran like a bat out of hell. Played with the throttle a little bit while listening for weird noises of rubbing or binding and couldn't hear anything odd or see anything out of whack. Steering rack worked fine with no snags. So MAYBE I can get buy with some stock bolt on parts to get me back on the road.

Looks like the wheel lugs came off......... The studs don't appear to be sheared or broken off, so I guess the lugs backed off somehow I don't remember ever taking the wheels back off since I put the new brakes on the front. And the car drove ok I guess.. Going to go wrench on the car to remove the busted parts.

Yeah, long story short (yeah right). Driving home from work this morning when the driver's front started shaking REALLY bad. I tried to slow down but was to late and at about 55-60mph I watched my front tire fly off the car. I managed to get the car on the grass with the remaining 3 wheels locked up and heading straight for a gosh darn telephone pole. With about 15 feet left before I hit the pole head on I FINALLY managed to turn it a little to the left. Damage done to the car (preliminary) is passenger side fenders, headlight, suspension parts and driver's side rotor......... And all that after I had a bad case of food poisoning Friday night This weekend has been a PITA !

Yep, I'm right outside Pensacola. If anyone else is near Pensacola, send me a PM. I haven't met anyone from the board yet, but I would like to see some member's cars in person ! BTW, there's a swap meet at the Emerald Coast Dragway this Sunday. There might be some Z cars there, but I'm not sure. I have to work that day, so I prolly won't make it like usual.... http://www.emeraldcoastdragway.com/

Transmission ?

Compliments of VinhZXT, who helped me wire mine up http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/8

Cool, I live right outisde Pensacola. Keep us updated on the fitment of these seats please !

The fuel level sending unit is located on the top of the fuel tank on the passenger side. If you pull up the rear deck you'll see your access cover for it, which is held down by 2 screws. Unscrew it and you'll see the top of your sending unit. There should be a metal ring that clamps it down onto a rubber seal. First unplug the sending unit, then turn the metal ring counter clockwise to get it off and gently pull the sending unit out of the tank making sure the rubber gasket doesn't fall off into the tank. Easy huh After you get it out of the tank you can test your gauge by plugging the sending unit back in and moving the metal rod with the float on it and watch your gauge to see if it moves. Yes, I got the gauge you referenced: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=atm%2D5416&searchinresults=false&N=700+115 And to make it work, I followed this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127605 GL, Tim

It might be your fuel gauge that is the problem, mine never worked on my 280z. I just bought another fuel sending unit for my Pro Comp gauge because the other one had some major play in the metal rod that holds the float. This newer sending unit had a little play on it, but not as bad as the old one so I had to put a small modified washer on it for it to work GOOD all the time, easy fix once I figured out what to use. I'd pull your sending unit out and examine it first, which literally takes 2 mins. The fuel level sending unit works by using a metal "finger" that runs across some tiny wires, which in turn sends the correct ohm signal to your gauge. If there's any play in the "finger" or metal rod then the signal won't be read. I tested mine THOROUGHLY to find this info out on exactly what causes them to lose a signal to the gauge. BTW, ask for a picture of the one that is for sale and compare it to yours... Hope that helps.

73LT1Z, where in Florida do you live? Are you interested in making more of those seat brackets

Nice job dude ! The way you planned and tackled it was just about the way I did mine, lol. What 60 fts were you cutting on the slicks?

I used all electrical gauges when I did my swap, although it's a different drivetrain. I think it comes down to personal preference and what options you have to work with. If your transmission has an electrical VSS sending unit then I would get an electric speedo. Also, you need to remember the sending unit range of the stock Z fuel level sending unit. I used this thread to help me choose mine: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127605&referrerid=15552 Hope my rambling helped a bit.

If you drive that car, you passed me today on some backroads south of I-10, BTW, I was "test" driving my dark green 280z Hit me up with a PM.

Send it to JCI...

What type of gauges are you referring to, Fuel, oil, water, tach, etc... ? And do these gauges use sending units from the stock engine?