thetremendoustim

So this might seem a random question, but there's a method for my madness... Does ANYBODY know what temperature the gasoline is at when they test the flow rate of injectors to give it that 265cc/min rating? I know that gasoline is very effected by temperature in relation to density so I'm wondering if a 10* difference in liquid temperature could mean a 20cc/min change...etc....

Yeah from what i understand from that thread, RTz, is that you can loop it as long as you use some water wetter, to increase the cooling abilities of the water.

So plugging off is a better alternative than looping?

are the injectors supposed to all tick loudly? My L is only running on like 3 cylinders right now and my plugs are always coming out really wet and black, not to mention the exhaust smells like a lawnmower just went by, should all the injectors have the same loudness of tick? I mean, some are LOUD and other are pretty soft, you have to put the screwdriver up to them to hear them.

+1 for Loop I grabbed a 1/2" 90* street bend copper pipe, a 1/2" MPT to Hose barb, and a couple feet of heater hose! So cheap yet so beautifully effective! Oh yeah, and a 3/8" brass plug for the Thermostat housing. head is a P90....standard L28et....

"somethings wrong with my Z, i did step 1 of troubleshooting."

Okay so after thinking about it all night and morning, I guess securing on the crank to intake and leaving the valve cover open is essentially pointless since its a huge vacuum leak. Where can I put the valve cover to considering I'm a l28et without a AFM boot with one of those plugs on top. I am thinking route it to the j-pipe/AAR via ANOTHER pcv valve and a 3way connector that makes sense right now to me at 10:14 AM. let me think more about it.

wow this thread (braap guy) answered all my PCV questions, however I have just one. I've been convinced that its in the best interest of my old rings, and overall engine stress to plumb the PCV back on the intake (N42 with turbo = but i already have a 90* fitting) but I dont want to have to find a new hole to vacuum the valve cover to, so would it defeat the purpose to have the block go to the intake but leave the valve cover open? Its baffled, so i think that will help in answering the question...

Hey flatblack! Yeah it was sitting on the side (the AFM) Yeah its the stock T3 Today i replaced the ignitor with a nismo one I had, got new NGK's (gapped at .043) and made myself some IC piping (the one by my foot (dont worry its just the fender) ) and this is today's result Tell me what you think!

yeah i know, i've posted a cople threads trying to find people in L.A. to help me but nobody seems to want to, unless I'm the only person in L.A. with a ZXT XD But, i ended up going to glendale and almost buying another AFM, but while i was testing his I figured out the problem with mine. The carbon swiper had been moved about 2mm so it was not contacting the board until the amount of air requred pulled it to touch the board (flapper about 1/8th inch open). When i moved it to be touching the board when the flapper was closed it now idles fine, but I moved it a few teeth leaner so it's a little better, the P.O. really ****ed me super bad. I have NO idea how it wasn't even touching or how it moved but such is life. Now this is what it SOUNDS like (the video sucks) but hey its running!

was this ever resolved?

83' JECS computer, 83 wiring which was a pain cuz all the writeups were for 81/82 >.

well considering the engine is already in the car, the radiator, IC and everything else, i've matched the lobes (at 10 and 2) with a dark visual of the cylinder that's the best I can do. But this picture seems to say that I'm about 9* to many so my 15* BTDC is actually just around 6* BTDC....would that cause my problems?

So I found this picture of the engine before I put the head on, after I took the crank off Notice the notch position? I have the piston at TDC but not so much calibrated with the notch, its reading what looks like around 9 (+/- 1) degrees advanced? What do you think? Could this cause some pretty terribly low idling and non-runability?

'ello there mate, you got yourself a...JECS L28E computer from the years of 1976-1978 M/T version. However, the same JECS computer was used on the 1976 M/T as it was on the A/T. hope tihs helps mate!

I dont mean to :hijack:but is there a way to test the ECU if the connections are all good but its still running like a pumpkin pie shitcan?

So I made a new ground connection from the ECU but still no go, how do I know if its the ECU? Should I just take it to the Nissan dealership and say test it? Are there any tests I can do with the ECU to see if its running correctly?

no thats my last resort its like when you''ve lost your keys and after a while you just start looking everywhere; in the cookie jar, underneath the rear van seats, or in boxes in the attic you know? also, she's hot in person http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116263&page=18 i'll try it!! edit: But hey I have been reading other posts etc and these 2 questions just came to mind, could the fact that 1. I'm running small (14ga?) wire from the ignition to the fusible link be a problem? 2. The fact that my ecu ground isn't very good be a problem?

well guys since you're enjoying my videos, the best one is definately or maybe the one of me rubix cubing from a couple years ago, you know its funny I just did a rubixs cube at this condo on wednesday and after almost two years of not doing it, and having a martini and some hefenweizens(?wheat beer) i was still able to do it in a time of 1:30ish uhhh yeah all continuity to ECU checks out on EVERYTHING, and the plugs are fine testing clean to the ECU, maybe my ignitor is bad? maybe the tires don't have enough tread? who knows, i'm completely mystified.

......you're kidding right did you even read this thread? WHY DIDNT I THINK OF THAT!!!??!?

I've hooked up my injectors to my flow tester and they seem fine, with no leaks, also the plugs for them are brand new they carry current to the ECU. Also, I've tweaked the AFM (dont worry i marked it and put it back), tested its resistance and also tested the CHTS (it matched the characteristic curve in the FSM) and although the CHTS seemed fine my AFM didn't seem right...it had some "jumpy" readings....(http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150654) However, shouldn't it be able to idle without the AFM plugged in? As you can see it neither idles with the AFM or without it. Could my ECU be bonkers?

I can't do anything, I'm giving up and I need someone who lives near L.A. (within 50 miles, I'll pay for your gas don't worry) to help me. Someone who knows what they're doing, and has done a L28et -> S30 swap before. You have no idea how crazy I'm becoming seeing as I can't get a job until I get my ride going and I'm running out of time!! PLEASE HELP!!! ME!!!!!!!! p.s. moderators, section this wherever it should go

if you can solve my problem i will cut off my rat tail.

there's no cold start injector, i'm running a straight Non-EGR N42 intake on a L28et. actually as you can see i'm not running it, its running itself.

Yeah.... The fuel doesn't burn completely, I have some smoke coming out of the compressor end of the turbo and also... its takes a video to explain but as i plug the afm in while the engine is running then it will idle normally, but it will start to die so i have to plug it back in. This series of in-n-out keeps the car idling, but when I turn the key completely off it will still run until it dies.