thetremendoustim

http://zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24764&highlight=non-egr+n42 THanks nismo I see what you mean with #4 going to the J-pipe I was really confused. AS for the CAS connector I can't find it on the Harness but i'll keep looking maybe its buried under some electrical tape or on the other side that i spliced off (XD) and from what I understand #2 and #5 I can just plug off?

Okay I've actually found out more by and this is what I have come to find out in a few hours... 1. Still have no idea where this plugs to but it needs to make its way to the ECU unfortunately I can't find my 79'-83 haynes so I am lost.. 2. This goes to the Carbon canister which can be removed. i will plug this, and just get a mini-k&N filter and put it on the gas tank line that goes from the tank to the carbon canister 3. This goes to the Fuel Pressure Regulator 4 & 5 are connected to the PCV ventilator on the valve cover by a 3-way connector. AM I RIGHT??

Problem: Hi, I need some help figuring out where goes where and even though I have looked on my '82, '73 and '76 FSMs and Haynes I still can't figure out the right configurations for the non-emissions requirements: there is either too much emissions information or not enough. I just need some pictures of people that have theirs completed or pictures of them in the progress, I have a virtually naked intake manfold with the wholes plugged off and some tubing coming out of some tubes. Information: It's a non-webbed N42, and I am running an '83 L28et with a P90 head and emissions is not required ('74 whoot!) So all i need is just the basic hookups but I'm not that tech savvy. If i can get some pictures and some jabs in the right direction then I can figure it out from there, just what does everybody's look like? These are some old pictures I will see if i can put updated ones up later, but nothing new has been connected besides the lower PCV valve connections. 1. This is connected to the Dizzy but wtf? 2. This goes to the carbon canister(?) if i'm right, do i even need it? 3. This goes to the AAR valve(?) but do i need it? do i have alternatives? 4. I have no idea 5. 8-| Thanks for any help or advice!

I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place and I'm moving so no matter what I can't get anything done on it...

hey the flux core will burn through any thin metals like a hot knife through butter, what you're going to want to do is maybe get some sheet metal from home depot or i personally just go to junk yards and ask for old car hoods and grind the paint off, it works just as good, if not better because it's actually the same metal . It takes alot of practice and you should definitely get a right angle grinder, it's a must! Just slowly fill in the hole in a spiral patter from the outside in, using slow spurts. Flux core requires a lot of practice and all the lumps and spatter you can simply grind off with your grinder. It's alot of fun once you realize what you're doing! I have a Miller 100 and the settings I had were very limited, just 1 or 2 for amperage and a 1-10 wire speed. On you Hobart I would probably use.. around 40 or 50 for amperage maybe 60; but the wire speed is the big thing so I'd use a 1 or 2 speed maybe 3, I cant say since I don't know what a 1 speed on a Hobart is compared to a Miller's 1 speed... Practice using different setting, always wear a mask, blah blah blah and it helps if you hold the welder at a 45-60 degree angle so you can actually see what you're doing as you weld (provided you have that mask on). It's really quite fun!

I have been trying to figure out my wiring for quite a while now, a few months, (schooling in between) and I'm still at square one which you can all imagine is very very VERY disheartening. I'm always scared that someone has asked this question, but since it's being addressed and I've grown tired of staring at wiring diagrams for literally days I might as well ask it. It is concerning ignition... I have read all the writeups on hybrid, zdriver and even yadamnfool's write up, haynes, etc... Okay I have something like this but it looks like this the previous owner has the white and the yellow wires already spliced off so all that's left are the black, green and B/R wires. I just plugged them into the male part which was right next to it although the white and yellow wires on the male part are NOT spliced but are still coming from inside the harness..I hope this is right.. ...I have nothing that resembles this and the closest thing that I can think that you are referring to are these wires... Again, I have no six pin connectors or 8 pin connectors besides the aforementioned ones in the first picture that have the white and yellow wires spliced. <-- so disheartening... I do have something that is familiar to this though!! Today I found that green thing labeled "FR" and I realized it's the Fuel Relay! or maybe the previous owner, Franklin Rossmore, had possession issues nevertheless I have two of those black box shaped plugs I put the Green Fuel relay ( i'm hoping and thinking that's what it is) on the end that is coming from the harness...if that makes any sense, either way it was 50/50 and I"m pretty sure I guessed right. I hope I am on the right track, if someone could point me in the right direction, my real question is concerning the ignition coil. Here's what mine looks like I have no idea where the wires from the trigger go, (the little black box) they are yellow/white and black/white but I'm pretty sure they have to do with power and harness I'm just really confused because then there's an alternate plug that isn't discussed in any readups I've read or any diagrams i have and it's this plug it comes off the +/- terminals on the coil and they are colored black/white and yellow and they come together into a male end of a plug (it's off to the left of the picture) I'm very lost and Losing time fast! I have to move the car this weekend and then I won't be able to work on it until summer because of the lanlord So i want to be able to get all the wiring done while it's still in my memory. Any help is appreciated, ANY! Thank you so much!

are you doing a turbo setup too? I have a non-webbed N42 with no emissions so it's pretty nice. The "hole on the bottom" that you're talking about is for your PCV valve, there's a tube that runs from the engine block that should have some hose to the PCV valve that goes on the intake. The emissions stuff I have no idea, but at least that's one hole down

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2006437&l=0f1e7&id=1034520060 I just did mine this summer, and all I have left to do is the EFI wiring which has killed me. Tell me what you think, there's some other albums in there, like some body work and other stuff if you're bored.

Hey Tony! I know!! I heard of the Rick 'n Ronnies that meet every 4th saturday, i believe, but I've been working every wednesday night since February, hahah so I haven't had a chance to go!! But I just quit my job, and I live right by there!! I hope to go at the end of the month! I got the PCV vacuum setup and I hooked these together too, if this is what you meant, Tony

Oh i got my PCV figured out, I just re routed it with a $5 part from Home Depot I just want to know what other vacuum hoses and all that other jazz goes

What vacuums go where on the N42 intake manifold on my L28et? I don't have anything on besides the Throttle Body. And I did get the PCV Valve setpu even though it doesn't show it in the old pictures

I just put my turbo motor in yesterday and I was wondering what hoses go where on my non webbed N42. Here's a picture of everything I currently have on it. After I put the fuel rail, what goes on? Maybe if someone has a picture of their N42 they could show me that'd be awesome. my second question is what is this for, and where does it go??

PLease!!! I desperately need help!!! hahaha

Okay so I've done a major engine rebuilt, and I'm on the last of my steps, all I have to do is figure out how to get the timing down, distributor wise. I have that part down but how do I get it on?? Facts: I had the engine at TDC before I put my new head on. Last night I torqued the head bolts down (55 ft/lbs) and all I need is this distributor, then I'm going to go ahead and put the intake/exhaust and oil pan and that'll be about it!! BUT UNTIL THEN HOW DO I GET THIS #@)($)(#* DISTRIBUTOR ON!?!??!

Hey i didn't want to start a new thread but will running 10PSI with fuel and intercooler (which I have but haven't set up), at 9.2:1 be safe and no detonation as long as I get like 91 octane? I'm planning on putting a E88 on an turbo block with dished pistons.

from what i understand, correct me if i'm wrong, but it's full boost (all 7) at 3000 RPM which makes it good because it puts out all the power early, but it's also bad because after about 4000 the power curve goes down (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98461) (http://www.dynoperformance.com/dyno_details.php?make=datsun&dynorun_id=751&model=240z) <--different boost numbers but same stock turbo; so you don't have that much wiggle room, it's not too efficient. Check out the turbo maps and plot a line for 7 psi. it's not very hard, just check out that earlier site that i referenced too. 225 should be no problem and be really reliable with that setup you're running. When you get it all checked out, tell me how fast your 0-60 is would ya?

just check the compressor map. here's what I know at 10 psi setting you'll hit 10 psi at about 6500 RPM at 16 psi you'll hit 10-12 at around 5000 RPM a and at 20 psi setting you'll hit 12 psi around 4500 RPM and still have 78% efficiency. With your intercooler and all upgrades, i'm guessing it'll be at least 300 flywheel HP. which is what I'm aiming for

how weird dude, i was just about to ask this question after reading a bunch of other turbo forums, such as that mustang forum and the other turbo stuff and that's exactly what 'im thinking! So far I figured I might as well be safe to go with T04E-50 ("50" trim) from this handy dandy site http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo/turbomaps/index.htm So i can comfortably boost around 15 psi at 3250RPM (set at 20 psi for 6500) or 15 psi at 6000 (set at 16 psi for 6500) it looks pretty straightforward, except for the cost of the turbo I checked and it's about 8 greens :. I'm running a 3" downpipe, 16 row intercooler, BOV, port/polish intake, 60mm throttle, and I have to still buy an Aftermarket fuel rail, but otherwise i'll be set. You have any advice for me?

I want to get new suspension for my '74 2+2 and I found this site, is this a good deal? http://cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=259&pid=1468 I am looking for lowering and a little bit more handling but is this just a straight swap with the stock?

okely dokely neighboreeno

I think i'm a little stupider because of that.... I just finished diong some rust work and body work on my '74 260 if you want to check it out u can here's the link http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2003723&l=baa15&id=1034520060 You don't need to have a facebook. Now i want to find a air dam/side skirt body kit for a 2+2 is there any place that's not so overpriced as MSA that I can find one?

I saw a picture much earlier in the thread about a guy who had a client clint barks or something like that, is there a place to buy 2+2 side skirts??? I don't believe MSA sells them, I've been looking through their complimentary catalogue for like an hour and can't find anything! any suggestions?

Hey I'm considering either edead or fatmat extreme off of ebay. Which would you recommend for my 2+2? I will definately not be afraid to double coat it if it reduces road noise, etc...I don't want to be able to hear any noise from outside, I'm not going for too much of a sports car feel since I have a 2+2

Hi all I have a few questions. Today I took to grinding the hatch area to get rid of the rust and paint and did so, mostly successfully (see pics). Then I took up the carpet and found a bunch of panels that have the consistency of tar and they are "glued" or more plainly "stuck" to the panels, so I took a chisel and after like 2 hours got some of it off and ground to the bare metal. What is this stuff?!?!? (see pics) Finally, I bought some 26 gauge sheet metal and this guy I know said he'll sell me his mig welder. It's an Easy Mig 100 and here are the specs *90 amp flux wire *120v/60HZ *31V Adjustment Positions: 2 Steps Range of current 50-80amp Duty Cycle: 15%@80A; 20%@65A; Rated duty cycle: 10%@90amps Insulation Class: F Welding wire size:.035" to 040" Can i use .03" wire to weld the 26 gauge steel to the body? If not what gauge and wire should I use for the body?? I have a friend that welds and he usually uses an arc welder which he let me borrow but it pretty much burns through all my practice metal.

Hey if you have a no/low rust 70-73 240z in SOCAL PLEASE don't hesitate to contact me first. Motor and tranny aren't a big concern, just the body. I'm looking for another project to start! thettim@yahoo.com