peej410

http://www.1speedway.com/swaybar35.htm The guy that i work for had a 35 inch 1.25 inch .120 wall sway bar that he didnt need so he gave it to me. the link above has the rates at certain lengths... the overrall width of the sway bar including the offset arms ill take care of but what i was wondering is if i intend to autocross and road race my car aswell as street drive it. how long should i cut the arms to? can i use the aluminum ones because im not really running a 3400lbs cup car? also, does anyone know if anyone makes aluminum bent offset arms? i want the bar to be adjustable, so what length range should i shoot for ? the car its going in has a SBC mounted 1.5 inches further back and 1.5 inches lower than JTR. my front springs are currently 225, i havent taken the rears out to measure them yet. they are springs i hacked out of a prelude my friend had because the car was way too scary with the stock springs. they will be replaced with real coilovers in the future. the car has a cage similar to what would required in an SCCA open top car. it has subframe connectors and the frame rails in the engine bay are 2x3x0.125 strut tower bracing front and rear. Front strut bars Rear cage section 2nd question. the guy with the race car said he would only give me the bar if i used needle bearings to install it and not bushings. i looked on mcmaster and i found needle bearings 8258K28 Sealed Precision Steel Needle-Roller Bearing for 1-1/2" Shaft Diameter, 2-1/16" Outside Diameter these are for running an inner race, the race is 8258K38 Sealed Precision Steel Needle-Roller Bearing Inner Ring for 1-1/4" Shaft Diameter, 1-1/2" OD the issue here is that the tolerance for these is .0010 to .0019 but my shaft (giggle) measures 1.253 with my caliper. is the difference the right amount to press the inner ring onto the sway bar without being too tight in the needle bearings? the carriers will be CNCed out of 6061, how much crush should i design into them so that they dont overload the needle bearings? if you cant tell ive never done a setup this extreme on a car before and given the cost of bearings and parts i want to get it right the first time around. thanks very much, you guys are the only people i trust with an issue this specific

alright cool thanks! i checked out the pictures on that sight and the hood loooks goood and for 350 you cant go wrong, too bad i have to save for my motor. haha

alright cool thanks, i might be making fiberglass/carbon door panels because my cage intrudes into the stock units. i was oggling your front suspension on your website because im looking to do the same thing. did you use really high quality heim joints or just regular ones?

hey is that a carbon hood? if so hows the fit?

heh its .095 wall DOM mild steel heh, no chromo here

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/peej410/detail?.dir=b912&.dnm=1fd3.jpg&.src=ph mwahahahahah maybe i shoulda just drilled and tapped my baseball bat instead

to take care of spatter use a 4 inch wound wire wheel on a 4 inch grinder, itll knock off most spatter and slag left by welding. the wound wire wheels have the wire twisted around itsellf in like ten big sections, they take alot more abuse.

agreed, i was looking for a tko untill i personally saw my friends mustang with that many miles on it haha. i need to rebuild mine (output shaft wobble) but i made my own shifter and the transmission is great, factor in that i paid 100 bucks for it and for me i just cant go wrong

heh well it sounded ok i installed it on an infinity as a resonator so i cant really judge how it sounded but it does sound deeper than a regular cherry bomb, inside it has a rifled (spiral) notched tubed with stainless packing in it. so i guess u could call it a glass pack without the glass hah

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=266020&prmenbr=361 these are thems

hey guys im about to install a Stainless Works smooth tube muffler on a customers infiniti. i just wanted to mention that this seems like a very well constructed muffler ! for 110 bucks through jegs its all stainless even the packing, its all 304, the barrel inside is rifled. i just love this thing, im going to buy two of them for my Z heh so i thought id mention it because if anyones looking for a muffler or a resonator they seem like an awesome "muffler"

the only issue with that suggestion is that the weaker of the T5 trannys is weaker because of its internal design the WC T5 is actually a better designed tranny, so in this case its better to start with the more expensive WC T5

i just wanted to mention that its been verified by magazines like car craft, that the crate ls1 motors make more then they are rated for by quite a bit. i wouldnt be too suprised if a crate ls6 makes more than an ls6 that comes out of a vette.

why does the program take into account gasket thickness and valve relief volum if your adding it into the combustion chamber volume figure? that doesnt make sense, that would put those two variables into the program twice wouldnt it ? nevermind i figured it out, my friend told me to put the piston dish volume in as a negative figure, im using patrick kelleys DCR calculator

hrm, alright, in the dynamic and static compression software i used i came up with a 10.4 CR where are you getting this 9.5 number from? also the cam that you linked me to has a whole lot more lift than the cam i mentioned. whats the correlation?

if i went to a smaller combustion chamber later couldnt i just retard the cam ? or is that a bandaid fix ?

hrm well i know the 882's will kill power but they are all i have for now. if i put it together with those and upgrade later, what unforeseen problems might i have?

ok im building a 350, heres what i got so far GM Forged nitrided indexed and min stroked crank, 3.493 stroke, it came out of some sort of oval track car but its been checked and its good to go bore 4.030 rod 5.7 head volume 76 (882 casting 1.94 intake 1.50 exhaust) piston to deck 0 piston -6.6 cc (valve reliefs) cam 274 intake 286 exhaust .490/.490 110 lobe sep @ .050 230 intake 236 exhaust i calculated a 8.14 dynamic compression, which is pretty much where my engine buddy told me i should be. intake manifold is a weiand single plane similar to the xcelerator. exhaust is shorty block huggers (for now) and 2.5 dual all the way back i dont think i left anything out, i realize this isnt exactly a perfectly matched setup but it will leave room for improvement down the line and i think the cam is the right choice. critiscise away

well the only problem with that is that my firewalls modified... http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/peej410/detail?.dir=b912&.dnm=1885.jpg&.src=ph

hrm i was just wondering what the advantages would be to load the chassis and stuff like that. the diagonals are going to be welded in. they arent meeting at the center but instead about 10 inches apart.

to bring this back from the dead again... im designing a strut tower assembly for the front of my car. two diagonals will go back from the strut towers to the firewall and will be reinforced by bars going to the dash bar in the car. im now trying to make a removable cross brace from one strut to the other, should i make it adjustable like a big tierod? since it will be bolt in should i use heims on the ends or solid mount a 1/4 inch tab to the plate i already made for them and machine some solid stock to put a bolt through it. also should i put the bolt in from top to bottom or front to back ?