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HowlerMonkey

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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey

  1. I already have a FS5R30 with Austin Hoke's L28 adaptor for the current L28ET engine.

     

    I have no use for a 4 speed because I need the overdrive ratio of 5th gear as this is for a LD28 diesel with turbo and I need the overdrive.

     

    I'm expanding this search to include a Z31 turbo automatic or 1984 nissan maxima either of E4n71b or L4n71b in rebuildable condition.

  2. Title says it all.

     

    I need a FS5W71B transmission (and the clutch fork) for local pickup.

     

    I'm willing to drive from key west to orlando but I am in west palm beach.

     

    Condition needs either to be daily driver working (ok with 1st to 2nd grind) or rebuildable but with undamaged gearset.

     

    PM or e.mail response ok.

     

    sparkus@att.blackberry.net

  3. Back in the late 80s, Dan Bisone lapped the field in a Improved touring race in his 240z.

     

    Pretty sure it passed tech. that time and a rumor was about that it turned 190hp to the wheels.

  4. Apparently, thermostat selection in the L6 is very important....don't buy crap but rather spring for the good stuff.

     

    Many aftermarket thermostats have a much smaller diameter hole....some as much as 30% smaller but it is definately a good idea to replace a 30 year old thermostat.

     

    The fan clutch started freewheeling about the same time the temperature sender stopped working but not before I heard what sounded like someone knocking on the floor of my car..........it was water banging around from extreme heat when I was in traffic.

     

    I replaced the fan clutch and it immediately overheated the next morning on the way to work but I wisely had a laptop connected to the consult port and turned around as soon as the temperature climbed above 220 without stabilizing and drove 1 block home. The temp at arrival was 329 degrees!!!

     

    Head gasket blown and who knows what else so a spare p90 goes on (after close inspection) and an ishino head gasket.

     

    I have a LD28 now and will be installing it with turbo soon but I need it running now so the write up on the diesel will have to wait a couple of months.

  5. I've had about 10 m30 ecus (5 got stolen) and found intermittence issues with about half of them.

     

    Luckily 3 of the 5 stolen had the issues but sadly one was a california ecu that was yanked forcefully off of the car without unscrewing the bolt which ruined my harness connector.

     

    That said, I snipped the M30 harness and fit it to the L28et in my M30 car in one day and tossed in stock 280zx turbo injectors (using dropping resistors) and the car runs rich for a few seconds on cold startup before the o2 sensor comes on which causes the M30 ecu to pull fuel.

     

    I'm not really sure how much fuel the m30ecu can pull but I've put 28k miles on this ecu with a L28et and only had issues from running too much initial timing and a bad thermostat.

     

    It's not fully necessary but, to get all the benefits from the m30 ecu, you will need to make sure you get the firing order correct for the injectors since the m30 ecu is sequential.

  6. I know this is an old thread but I've searched and can not find any mention of the size of the LD28 rod bolts.

     

    I will be ordering some arp bolts but not sure if they are 8mm or 9mm.

     

    I'm trying to finish my infiniti m30 with ld28 and turbo project.

  7. Isn't the mn47 a high quench head when used with flattops?

     

    If so, it's possible the mechanical combination will work but, as someone else said, a cam change is a good idea and it's possible that the factory timing curve will be too intense making a good working egr system mandatory for highway cruising.

  8. Same boat here....

     

    At some point, I will do a google search with the name/number of a few helmets and maybe add words like "slow" "strobe"....etc. and see if there are complaints of it being too slow.

     

    One thing to make sure is that any auto-darkening helmet has a true battery and not a capacitor or welding in a dark area will guarantee bright flashes before the helmet clamps down.

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