HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Back in the late 80s, Dan Bisone lapped the field in a Improved touring race in his 240z.
Pretty sure it passed tech. that time and a rumor was about that it turned 190hp to the wheels.
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Make sure the sensor isn't touching the "wheel" that triggers it.
Removing the fan makes it easier and I used a feeler gauge but don't remember thickness.
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I searched in vain as well.
I have a fel-pro gasket here and it's really thin so I will try it and then maybe do an a/b comparison.
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Does anybody know if we can trust a fel-pro gasket to be the thickness to achieve proper rotor to housing clearance?
Now that we have have all these pumps apart, we'll need gaskets that won't compromise in this area.
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Just pulled one from a 1996 pickup....will measure rotor tomorrow.
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Dang...forgot to suggest oil change but am glad to see you did it.
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240sx not a bolt in......different tranny.
I'm sure Bernard has the solution.
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How long did the car sit cooling or idling before the dyno run?
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Click.....add to favorites....thanks.
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Apparently, thermostat selection in the L6 is very important....don't buy crap but rather spring for the good stuff.
Many aftermarket thermostats have a much smaller diameter hole....some as much as 30% smaller but it is definately a good idea to replace a 30 year old thermostat.
The fan clutch started freewheeling about the same time the temperature sender stopped working but not before I heard what sounded like someone knocking on the floor of my car..........it was water banging around from extreme heat when I was in traffic.
I replaced the fan clutch and it immediately overheated the next morning on the way to work but I wisely had a laptop connected to the consult port and turned around as soon as the temperature climbed above 220 without stabilizing and drove 1 block home. The temp at arrival was 329 degrees!!!
Head gasket blown and who knows what else so a spare p90 goes on (after close inspection) and an ishino head gasket.
I have a LD28 now and will be installing it with turbo soon but I need it running now so the write up on the diesel will have to wait a couple of months.
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I've had about 10 m30 ecus (5 got stolen) and found intermittence issues with about half of them.
Luckily 3 of the 5 stolen had the issues but sadly one was a california ecu that was yanked forcefully off of the car without unscrewing the bolt which ruined my harness connector.
That said, I snipped the M30 harness and fit it to the L28et in my M30 car in one day and tossed in stock 280zx turbo injectors (using dropping resistors) and the car runs rich for a few seconds on cold startup before the o2 sensor comes on which causes the M30 ecu to pull fuel.
I'm not really sure how much fuel the m30ecu can pull but I've put 28k miles on this ecu with a L28et and only had issues from running too much initial timing and a bad thermostat.
It's not fully necessary but, to get all the benefits from the m30 ecu, you will need to make sure you get the firing order correct for the injectors since the m30 ecu is sequential.
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Innovate motorsports, makers of the LM-1 have an obdII bluetooth adapter for the iphone.
I think they are working on one for the android.
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Anyone know the rod bolt size of the LD28?
I'm wondering if any of the arp rod bolt offerings for L engines will fit.
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the cap and rod should have marks from where the tang on the original bearing was.
I match them up if the engine has never been rebuilt before.
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I know this is an old thread but I've searched and can not find any mention of the size of the LD28 rod bolts.
I will be ordering some arp bolts but not sure if they are 8mm or 9mm.
I'm trying to finish my infiniti m30 with ld28 and turbo project.
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We're going to use them on a twin turbo Z06 build simply because there is no room for anything else
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You could run it on e85 but would need some ecu changes to go with the bigger injectors.
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Isn't the mn47 a high quench head when used with flattops?
If so, it's possible the mechanical combination will work but, as someone else said, a cam change is a good idea and it's possible that the factory timing curve will be too intense making a good working egr system mandatory for highway cruising.
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Same boat here....
At some point, I will do a google search with the name/number of a few helmets and maybe add words like "slow" "strobe"....etc. and see if there are complaints of it being too slow.
One thing to make sure is that any auto-darkening helmet has a true battery and not a capacitor or welding in a dark area will guarantee bright flashes before the helmet clamps down.
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Elbow AND wastegate housing are different.
It is possible that the Z31 elbow will fit but you would need a far longer downpipe since the elbow terminates at least 5 inches higher than the 280zx elbow.
If you still have the original turbo, reclock the cold side or the new turbo to match the old one, and either remove the exhaust housing with wastegate housing and even elbow still attached before clocking it properly and fitting it to the center housing of the 300zx turbo.
Sadly, you will end up with difficult bolts and it is easy to ruin the exhaust turbine when removing exhaust snail so it's not going to be fun whatever path you choose.........unless you can get away with reclocking cold side and just use a taller downpipe to fit the shorter 300zx elbow (which I cannot confirm will clear the steering shaft).....maybe someone else can.
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I'm kind of partial to heavier flywheels.....unless this is a dedicated road racing car.
After years of running a light flywheel on my 13-b RX-2 with J-ports, finances caused me to go back to the stocker for a bit and it ended up being the perfect combination such that it allowed me to "store" more energy which was needed to launch the car. Once hooked up, the extra mass actually helped the car from breaking traction in second gear once it came on really hard because it help resist the engine running away rapidly if traction wasn't perfect.
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To fit the olds 455 into a ventura, you have to relinquish the evaporator as it will hit the head.
It's close enough with the 262-403 but the higher deck height causes issues.
It also causes issues on the 1979 and later cars for the same reason.
I had one in a 1969 ss396 chevelle with mickey thompson valve covers and a torker 455 manifold painted factory colors on "F heads" (no heat riser) and that car was a monster beast.
Best factory versions were actually out of the old toronados.....not sure why but they spec. more hp than almost any other olds 455.
One thing to keep in mind is that engine mounts and header/exhaust manifold angle is different between the 455 and the rest of the olds engines which might cause issues if not paid attention to.
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I got a 1/4 inch piece of steel plate, burned a hole with a torch to slightly smaller than needed, drilled the bolt holes, and then touched up the large burnt hole to match the gasket.
Then I used a bench grinder to do the final shaping.
L24E or L28E
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Then there's that converting the L24e to rear sump issue.
Whatever you do, don't throw away that maxima cylinder head.