HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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I just spent the afternoon tweeking the spring on the front of 2 of my spare fan clutches and found you can really dial it in such that the fan freewheels at your stable operating temperature and starts grabbing anywhere above it.
They aren't really optimized from the factory and the bi-metallic spring is pretty brittle but it doesn't take much bending of the spring to have a pretty large effect as to what temperature it comes in.
I moved the first one about 15 degrees on a way too tight fan clutch and didn't kick in until the temp gauge was way too high so I tried to bend it back a bit and it snapped.
I bent another one about 5 degrees on a way too tight clutch and it's perfect in that you can hear it come in while sitting at the drive-thru at idle but fades after a block or two of 45mph driving and makes no noise at all on the highway.
Before, it was so tight that the car sounded like a huge leaf blower and the plastic blade tips actually bent forward from the bite and touched the radiator slightly because of the excessive fan speed going fast on the highway.........it got moved back 1/4 inch as well.
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Back bumper gone but engine still complete down to carb setup and air cleaner.
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Are those drain and fill plugs?
If so, I'll venture a bet that it's the fluid that ages........or seeps out.
Crosses fingers hoping that drawing came from a nissan service manual.......because that unit looks servicable with simple snap ring pliers but I doubt seals would be easy to come by.
It might be possible that toyota fan clutch fluid could be used.
If it is the correct formulation, then toyota offers 3 viscosity indexes.
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Never mind......I found it in the FSM.
Strangely, text search did not find it in acrobat reader.
For the record, it is located in the "B pillar" on the driver's side.......unless the drawing is reversed.
Of course, this is the area that gets wet (do you have wet seatbelts?) when the rear side windows become unbonded to the body so...
If you wonder why it didn't come in 1987 and later nissans, it is because they went to dual feed injector scheme where the fuel return system allows fuel to flow in one feed and out the other to cool the injectors after a hot soak.
Nissan figured out the fuel system modification was far less expensive than the supplemental motor/timer/wiring system and the extra burden on batteries that running a blower 15 minutes after most every run cycle in warm weather causes.
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I need one for my M30 with L28et and am having a hard time finding it on the 1985 300zx I have chosen to source it from at the junkyard.
Any ideas before I just wade in, remove all the interior panels, and start searching?
I'm sure it's near either side kick panel and either above said panels or sunk into the "A pillar" behind other components but it is just too hot here to spend time doing an extended search by unbolting tons of most likely rusted bolts/screws.
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Every time I pass up a complete SU induction system on a 240, I later kick myself.
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I still had crosshatching on an engine that had 280,000 miles.
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I was just at U-pull and pay on benoist farms road in west palm beach and saw a complete (and completely rusted) 240z right down to the non-square top carbs and air filter assembly.
It is manual tranny and has the e88 head and has not exeperienced any rain as of 3:00 wednesday (today).
I peered through the tinted rear and saw a pair of 3 into 2 into 1 headers in the rear cargo area.
Hopefully someone can benefit from this before the butchers descend upon it.
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Remember that the car uses ground as it's reference for zero voltage.
If you have a lifted ground, your car will overcharge regardless of how many alternators or regulators are installed.
I would check the path from negative battery terminal to body ground and then make sure all wires going to the extrernal regulator actually make the trip.
Some common symptoms of a lifted body ground are a jumpy tach and a whining noise when the radio is on and engine running.
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Attention Thrustnut.
I recently stumbled upon a epic thread which is right up your alley (high performance cars....and planes).
Make sure you have plenty of time.
http://www.aafo.com/hangartalk/showthread.php?t=5320
For car nuts, it get's to the car stuff on page 13 with stories of mickey thompson and other cool car stuff.
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The tide has shifted recently to the point that a running LD28 is worth far more than the diesel crank that will just sit until it rusts up before the owner can get around to finishing the stroker engine.
Putting a stock L28et turbo setup on a LD28 is just enough boost to wake up the engine and cleans up the smoke pretty well.
Great way to get similar to stock performance while getting near 45mpg in the more aerodynamic 280z or 280zx body.
The maxima itself shares many parts with the 280zx though it uses the wheel offsets found on S13 and early Z31 4 lugs so it's easy to replace the skinnys with tires as large as 225/50-15 and not worry about rubbing.
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Does it actually run without the starter turning it for a couple of seconds while popping and missing?
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There is a bi-metallic spring on the front of the fan clutch which turns a shaft that goes into the clutch and varies port opening so the viscous fluid can vary the amount of energy transferred to the fan blades.
Yours spring could be stuck in the warm position......or......the clutch has seized solid.
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I've recently replaced my water pump because of suspected runout because of a similar noise.
When watching the fan (careful)....with the fan at low rpms (cold clutch) and engine at high rpms, I could see the fan running out enough to touch the front pulley (power steering extra pulley).
I can also feel more vibration..........but....it only happens when fan is in slippage mode and not when it's tightening up.
I'll be trying a variety of clutches to see if that's the problem or whether this problem is runout of the crank pulley being transmitted through the belts to the less robust water pump rotating mass.
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A while back, I wanted to supercool the air and enclosed an a/c evaporator....actually many since more than a few had the vanes vibrating an insane amount and one actually had the vanes fold over from the velocity of the air coming in from the turbo.
They just aren't made for crazy velocity and you can guarantee that some types would lose vanes or other parts.
I guess one could swap velocity for volume further upstream of it and get around possible evaporator core damage but I'm not sure if that would be enough and you would have to add more volume to the "column" or pressurized air causing longer lag times.
I used a double pole brakelight switch (cruise control cars have them) and energized the compressor clutch through the brakes to use the A/C system to cool the core.
I eventually used a maxima or stanza a/c clutch sensor/controller from the climate control system that would keep the clutch from being energized at crazy rpms.
It worked OK but is pretty much only good for a road racing track car where the brakes are used often since the compressor's loading while engaged will negate any HP rewards if it runs during acceleration.
Sadly, the extra weight and the fact that most road racing classes don't allow turbochargers means it was more just playing around but......if you only plan to blast the road course for fun in non-sanctioned "arrive and drive" events....it might be fun.
The mustang guys are always selling air/water intercooler systems when they swap out the supercharger on thier late model cobra for a turbo system but it might require a bit of work to fit it to a different application.
Air/water intercooling works pretty well on the car I am doing some custom parts for......we'll find out october 11th when it competes in the standing mile competition at the "dade collier training and transition airfield" or "everglades jetport" which is a huge airport in the everglades that was intended for the concorde (which later landed an miami anyway).
If anybody is interested in seeing an event like this, now might be the time because the super high speeds and lack of sanctioning body tell me someone will crack up pretty badly eventually and these events will disappear shortly.
The car is in the center video at the bottom of the page.
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The clicking is probably a grain of sand or other matter between wheel and housing.
Blow it out with air (don't spin it up with no oil) and see if you still have the clicking noise.
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If you're leaking minor oil, I would first check the drain back to the pan since I have seen many that get clogged causing oil issues.
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I'll be dyno'ing a L28 F54 with flattops, p90, and dead stock unmodded mechanicals and turbo blowing through a cat and stock infiniti M30 muffler with the only "mods being a Infiniti M30 ecu and MAF.
I will post the numbers at stock boost and boost levels up to 10psi or pinging....whichever comes first.....no intercooler.
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The Z32s were accumulating oil in the heads in long turns such that the pcv would sip oil.
The Z31 issues I see the most often that lead to failure is heat above 300 degrees.
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The spring is pretty damn strong so it will be hard to move.
I would undo the hose, the two bolts that hold it on, and the pin that holds the actuator arm to the lever and take out the actuator........or you can use one of the pressure/vacuum pumps and see if it moves when you apply pressure to the actuator port.
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A datsun 610 would be cool.
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If you're running stock boost or slightly higher, the T28 would be fine since the later Z31 3.0 liter came with T25s.
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The fact that he had adjusted the crank angle sensor to it's lowest point and still has 22 degrees might suggest the throttle position switch is not closing when throttle is closed...........or his throttle is not closed.
If the car is above the specified idle, the timing will be advanced as well.
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Throttle actuation setup is sweet.
280z Cranks and Pops but won't start
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
It's possible that the exhaust system is filled with crap that is burning/boiling off or your oil level is way too high though the white smoke usually points to coolant being in the combustion chambers.