HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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How many quarts of oil are in the sump?
Is the dipstick the correct one for your car?
Is this car equipped with an automatic transmission that could be sipping trans. fluid through the vacumm for the modulator?
Just a few things to check before tearing down the engine.
Also....how is the turbo drain path from turbo to pan?
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7 miles per gallon best case scenario with 3x13b.
If they are naturally aspirated and bridgeported, then mileage goes way down from there.
I moved to nissans after running rotaries from about 1981 until 1990 when I left Z shop of Miami for Datsun Dynamics.
They are just too loud in performance trim unless you turbocharge them.....which opens up more that needs to be addressed.
You might get 600hp from a well done turbo II engine.
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I am considering the above post just a pathetic attempt at trolling or an attempt to get the last word in.
Every diesel and aero catalog as well as many compressed air equipment catalogs list them as intercoolers and aftercoolers.
Try to order "intercooler #2" from any diesel or aero engine parts supplier and you will be asked to clarify if you mean the intercooler or the aftercooler.
The only time they number intercoolers is in system with three or more stages of compressing.
TonyD you are a smart and knowledgable man but your willingness to jump down people's throat needs to be tempered a bit.
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You must record the sound of the engine with that induction system at full song!!
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I can't remember if the N47 has the camshaft oil spray bars or not but I do know the maxima N47 does not have them.
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In many markets, the rear sump pans outnumber the front sump pans by a margin of around 300 to 1.
I'm sure they are more common in australia, though.
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When you have two stages of supercharging, names should be used that distinguish the coolers of each stage from each other.
This is important for the parts guys and technicians so the wrong part does not get ordered or replaced.
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Whatever you do, hang on to those front sump oil pans.
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All of the factory lexus manual transmissions I have driven drive like a truck as if the designers just tossed a manual option on the car as an afterthought.
The turbo supra six speed shifts better but you will find them premium priced.
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I work with the Big Stuff 3 system designed by the same John Meany who designed the FAST system.
Pricing of both systems is all over the place so it's really hard to figure out which one can be had cheaper.
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That really sounds like a distributor issue.
Next time it refuses to start, leave the key on and wiggle the harness where it plugs into the bottom of the distributor.
If you hear the injectors click, then you have an intermittence issue within the potted electronics of the distributor.
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Didn't Tony just lecture you in another thread about intercooler/aftercooler terminology? I don't pretend to think anyone is right or wrong, I just find the argument almost hilarious because in the end it really doesn't matter for our application what we call it.
Personally, if I was to do a compound setup, I'd use E85 or similar heat soaking fuel to help cut out some of the heat. But I do agree that cooling the charge can become incredibly important if both your air compressors are only running at a 50% efficiency.
Air to water coolers can definitely help regarding packaging for cooling capability.
No lecture required.
I am a FAA certified airframe and powerplant mechanic and a certified heavy diesel technician having worked reciprocating aircraft engines with two stage supercharging and turbo compound as well as heavy diesel marine engines for hatteras yachts that feature both superchargers, turbochargers, aftercoolers, and intercoolers on each engine.
Tony is not wrong and neither am I.
You, however, are wrong in your scolding.
My point is that you really don't need a supercharger in the mix when turbo technology has come far enough to make it not necessary for any non-diesel application.
I think the biggest reason you even see any cars with both superchargers and turbochargers is because the car of choice was factory equipped with a supercharger already.
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The term intercooler is similar to the term "NOS".
It has been used for a long time and is now accepted whether it is right or wrong.
I come from the aviation and heavy diesel end of things where there are both intercoolers and aftercoolers on the same engine.
In a situation where you have both, you cannot call both of them "intercoolers".
That said, I've done a couple of mustangs and ford GT with both supercharger and turbocharger together but I'm not a big fan of most installations I have seen because most compound turbo or supercharer/turocharger seem to lack a cooler at some point.
Our mustang ran an aftercooler between the blower and the engine capable of flowing 2000 horsepower's worth of air and an intercooler between the turbo and the blower.
We've been much more successful with a twin turbo setup and are getting north of 2000hp from a 5.4 ford modular engine that features almost a 5000rpm powerband at which full boost is obtained.
It's also driven on the street with a/c and all factory comfort options retained.
You run out of room pretty quickly for placement of both of the heat exchangers tasked with dissapating the heat.
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I really like this one I got from "the parts bin" as many aftermarket thermostats have a much smaller opening.
This aftermarket thermostat is closest to factory that I have seen.
It is a NTK thermostat and they are available in 3 temperatures.
The wahler thermostat also features a larger diameter passage.
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Already mentioned but you might want to run a supplemental ground from the engine to the body.
This helped me find the weak link in my electrical system back in the early 80s on a mazda RX2 and I now use it on all cars for redundancy.
It also helps greatly with the stereo system.
You can see it on the supplemental terminal on the marine battery but it can be clamped with the bolt on a normal battery terminal.
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Gently wiggle the wires near the ecu connector when this happens and see if that has an effect.......be gentle....it only takes the slightest pressure do this test and excessive pressure can be tough on the connection where the connector is soldered to the ecu board.
Also.....try using jumper cables between the engine and the body to test if it gets rid of the problem.
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Don't forget to make sure you get the plugs that have a slot that corresponds with the raised "key" on the injectors of your choice or you will find that they won't plug in.
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Don't forget the oil pump shaft from a 82 or 83 car.
Going from auto to T5 is far more painful than going from automatic to fs5w71b trans from a non-turbo 280zx.
If the auto you are referencing is from the 280zx turbo engine you have, the yoke that slips into the trans. will have a larger output shaft diameter and won't mesh with the manual trans......I may fit in but will not mesh with the splines.
If the automatic is from the car itself, you may get lucky and find the driveshaft fits right in the manual.........not fully sure as there are many variations.
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This happens when your wastegate is still getting it's boost reference from the turbo or before the intercooler.
Try moving the line to the intake manifold.
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There is a small "adapter housing" that bolts to the front cover which is used on the non-turbo cars.
Removing this small housing should allow the proper turbo distributor to fit but you also need the proper turbo distributor/oil pump shaft for it to fit.
If the engine is a 1981 it will use crank trigger and an empty distributor as well as the non-turbo style oil pump drive shaft.
Don't sweat the flat top pistons as many run them in turbo cars but you will find that 10psi is pretty much the limit with intercooling and a bit less without it.
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I would also look into the carburetors to see if you can see fuel dripping out of the main jet while idling.
This would indicate too high a float level or a stuck float.
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Here is my L28 priming method.
I get some clear tubing and cut a taper in the tip so I can shove it into the hole that feeds the oil filter.
You have to shove the tubing forward relative to the car's front end into the hole that is in front of the threaded filter.
That hole is the termination of the gallery that leads from the filter boss through the front cover and to the pump output.
1 foot of this tubing works well for this.
So....connect the tubing to a skinny funnel however you can and fill the funnel halfway up with oil.
Put a wrench on the crankshaft nut and turn it opposite of the engine's normal rotation.
This will suck the oil through the tube, down the passage, prime the pump, and also fill the pickup tube.
One quart or less will do it.
Remove tube and quickly screw the filter on.
Crank car for a bit and then pull the oil pressure sender and quickly put a finger over the hole.
Hit a remote starter switch or have someone crank car while lightly holding finger over hole.
If oil does not come out of sender hole then something is very wrong with the pump or the pump drive because you just primed the absolute hell out of it with this method.
Once oil comes out of sender hole, put it back in and crank car until oil comes out of the cracked loose turbo supply banjo fitting screw.
I've actually had an oil pump push zero oil after this priming method was used so I slapped on another pump I had, did the same priming, and instantly got oil pressure/flow from a different pump.
It's not easy to jam that tubing into that hole because you have to point it forward but clear tubing is pretty soft which makes it easier.
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Is it a 4 speed or 5 speed car.
4.44 could very well put the car at 5300rpms at 75mph.
That's not a fun cruise.
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Ok....they all have squirters in the rod.
"rebuilt" engine burning oil
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
What happens when you remove the oil filler cap with it running?