HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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On a L28 without excessive blow-by, you shouldn't hear anything.
If you have blow-by you should hear a growling noise and putting your hand plugging the hole might even cause pressure to build that you will notice when you remove your hand on a car with huge amounts of blow-by.
There are varying degrees of this and what I described is "whole engine blow-by" and just a single cylinder with the amount of smoking mentioned would manifest itself as muted pops through the oil cap hole instead of a groan.
Usually, if an engine has enough blow by to make clouds of smoke, then you should expect that it will expel exhaust gases past the rings into the crankcase.
A properly running L28 with stock breather hose routing may actually misfire as removing the oil cap will allow air that was not metered by the air flow meter to enter the engine and cause a miss in some cases.
Some guys run into the misfire when they remove the hose that goes from the valve cover to the induction system between the air flow meter and the throttle body and instead use a filter on the valve cover barb.
If you don't have any of the "blow-by" symptoms described, then rejoice that you instead have leaking valve stem seals.
Of course, removing the head to fix the seals will also allow you to inspect the bores which might show some scuffing.
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You would be able to tell if it was rings or valve stem seals by listening to the oil cap when the engine is running.
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A man with his priorities in order.
Car and driver did it in 1985
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What happens when you remove the oil filler cap with it running?
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How many quarts of oil are in the sump?
Is the dipstick the correct one for your car?
Is this car equipped with an automatic transmission that could be sipping trans. fluid through the vacumm for the modulator?
Just a few things to check before tearing down the engine.
Also....how is the turbo drain path from turbo to pan?
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7 miles per gallon best case scenario with 3x13b.
If they are naturally aspirated and bridgeported, then mileage goes way down from there.
I moved to nissans after running rotaries from about 1981 until 1990 when I left Z shop of Miami for Datsun Dynamics.
They are just too loud in performance trim unless you turbocharge them.....which opens up more that needs to be addressed.
You might get 600hp from a well done turbo II engine.
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I am considering the above post just a pathetic attempt at trolling or an attempt to get the last word in.
Every diesel and aero catalog as well as many compressed air equipment catalogs list them as intercoolers and aftercoolers.
Try to order "intercooler #2" from any diesel or aero engine parts supplier and you will be asked to clarify if you mean the intercooler or the aftercooler.
The only time they number intercoolers is in system with three or more stages of compressing.
TonyD you are a smart and knowledgable man but your willingness to jump down people's throat needs to be tempered a bit.
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You must record the sound of the engine with that induction system at full song!!
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I can't remember if the N47 has the camshaft oil spray bars or not but I do know the maxima N47 does not have them.
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In many markets, the rear sump pans outnumber the front sump pans by a margin of around 300 to 1.
I'm sure they are more common in australia, though.
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When you have two stages of supercharging, names should be used that distinguish the coolers of each stage from each other.
This is important for the parts guys and technicians so the wrong part does not get ordered or replaced.
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Whatever you do, hang on to those front sump oil pans.
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All of the factory lexus manual transmissions I have driven drive like a truck as if the designers just tossed a manual option on the car as an afterthought.
The turbo supra six speed shifts better but you will find them premium priced.
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I work with the Big Stuff 3 system designed by the same John Meany who designed the FAST system.
Pricing of both systems is all over the place so it's really hard to figure out which one can be had cheaper.
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That really sounds like a distributor issue.
Next time it refuses to start, leave the key on and wiggle the harness where it plugs into the bottom of the distributor.
If you hear the injectors click, then you have an intermittence issue within the potted electronics of the distributor.
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Didn't Tony just lecture you in another thread about intercooler/aftercooler terminology? I don't pretend to think anyone is right or wrong, I just find the argument almost hilarious because in the end it really doesn't matter for our application what we call it.
Personally, if I was to do a compound setup, I'd use E85 or similar heat soaking fuel to help cut out some of the heat. But I do agree that cooling the charge can become incredibly important if both your air compressors are only running at a 50% efficiency.
Air to water coolers can definitely help regarding packaging for cooling capability.
No lecture required.
I am a FAA certified airframe and powerplant mechanic and a certified heavy diesel technician having worked reciprocating aircraft engines with two stage supercharging and turbo compound as well as heavy diesel marine engines for hatteras yachts that feature both superchargers, turbochargers, aftercoolers, and intercoolers on each engine.
Tony is not wrong and neither am I.
You, however, are wrong in your scolding.
My point is that you really don't need a supercharger in the mix when turbo technology has come far enough to make it not necessary for any non-diesel application.
I think the biggest reason you even see any cars with both superchargers and turbochargers is because the car of choice was factory equipped with a supercharger already.
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The term intercooler is similar to the term "NOS".
It has been used for a long time and is now accepted whether it is right or wrong.
I come from the aviation and heavy diesel end of things where there are both intercoolers and aftercoolers on the same engine.
In a situation where you have both, you cannot call both of them "intercoolers".
That said, I've done a couple of mustangs and ford GT with both supercharger and turbocharger together but I'm not a big fan of most installations I have seen because most compound turbo or supercharer/turocharger seem to lack a cooler at some point.
Our mustang ran an aftercooler between the blower and the engine capable of flowing 2000 horsepower's worth of air and an intercooler between the turbo and the blower.
We've been much more successful with a twin turbo setup and are getting north of 2000hp from a 5.4 ford modular engine that features almost a 5000rpm powerband at which full boost is obtained.
It's also driven on the street with a/c and all factory comfort options retained.
You run out of room pretty quickly for placement of both of the heat exchangers tasked with dissapating the heat.
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I really like this one I got from "the parts bin" as many aftermarket thermostats have a much smaller opening.
This aftermarket thermostat is closest to factory that I have seen.
It is a NTK thermostat and they are available in 3 temperatures.
The wahler thermostat also features a larger diameter passage.
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Already mentioned but you might want to run a supplemental ground from the engine to the body.
This helped me find the weak link in my electrical system back in the early 80s on a mazda RX2 and I now use it on all cars for redundancy.
It also helps greatly with the stereo system.
You can see it on the supplemental terminal on the marine battery but it can be clamped with the bolt on a normal battery terminal.
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Gently wiggle the wires near the ecu connector when this happens and see if that has an effect.......be gentle....it only takes the slightest pressure do this test and excessive pressure can be tough on the connection where the connector is soldered to the ecu board.
Also.....try using jumper cables between the engine and the body to test if it gets rid of the problem.
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Don't forget to make sure you get the plugs that have a slot that corresponds with the raised "key" on the injectors of your choice or you will find that they won't plug in.
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Don't forget the oil pump shaft from a 82 or 83 car.
Going from auto to T5 is far more painful than going from automatic to fs5w71b trans from a non-turbo 280zx.
If the auto you are referencing is from the 280zx turbo engine you have, the yoke that slips into the trans. will have a larger output shaft diameter and won't mesh with the manual trans......I may fit in but will not mesh with the splines.
If the automatic is from the car itself, you may get lucky and find the driveshaft fits right in the manual.........not fully sure as there are many variations.
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This happens when your wastegate is still getting it's boost reference from the turbo or before the intercooler.
Try moving the line to the intake manifold.
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There is a small "adapter housing" that bolts to the front cover which is used on the non-turbo cars.
Removing this small housing should allow the proper turbo distributor to fit but you also need the proper turbo distributor/oil pump shaft for it to fit.
If the engine is a 1981 it will use crank trigger and an empty distributor as well as the non-turbo style oil pump drive shaft.
Don't sweat the flat top pistons as many run them in turbo cars but you will find that 10psi is pretty much the limit with intercooling and a bit less without it.
About to build my first L28, have some questions.
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by HowlerMonkey
Too late....I heard it.....strange how it keeps coming up.
Your P79 will run identical to the P90 on a F54 with flattops and I ran one 20,000 miles at 7psi boost without any liner issues.
Higher boost............not so sure of liner longeivity.
I did switch back to the p90 head because I was worried but they looked fine upon inspection.
You won't be able to run as much boost as with the dished pistons but that is a bit debatable since I don't think I've seen anyone run high boost with forged flat tops in a L28 turbo car yet and the quench pad (p90 and p79) brings detonation resistence that is compromised by a dished piston.
Of course, the dished piston is lower compression ratio.
I've run 87 octane with 6psi and an intercooler without pinging and a good tune could possibly allow higher boost even with 87 since I am doing it on a non-tuned ecu that features pretty aggressive timing advance that was mapped for a non-turbo engine.
I mentioned 87 but I don't recommend running anything but 92 or 93 octane with the f54 flat top and p79 combination.