HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Hammering in the freeze plugs with too small a socket can cause them to bow in the center which can cause them to not fit as tightly.
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Airflow through the engine compartment is very important as well especially when concerning parking a hot car.
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Many of the chryslers don't turn on the fans until 230 degrees F.
The reason for the high temperature is that they are sampling the temperature of the cylinder head itself instead of the thermostat housing.
I run a M30 ecu on my L28et and use a laptop to pull data from the consult port and the temp sensor on the head is always a bit higher than the temps I deduce using the lookup tables for the brand sensor installed in the thermostat housing.
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When I pull a coil/igniter from a later model nissan, I also track down the small condensor that is in the harness a foot or so from the coil assembly.
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I had a mazda RX-2 that did this every once in a while.
One day, I pulled into a gas station and decided to fuel up while trying to figure out what was wrong.
When I remove the gas cap, it was difficult and a large sucking sound was heard as I got the cap off.
Apparently the tank was ending up with a vacuum in the evening after the sun went down in Washington DC and the temperature dropped 30 degrees.
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The heat shielding is rubbing your driveshaft.
Check the shield that bolts to the frame rails.......it goes over the exhaust but below the driveshaft.
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Remember that it's possible to kill the lifespan of certain components by not letting them shed heat.
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I've been running flat tops with P90 and turbo for 4 years myself and have fixed a few as far back as 1988.
I was relating from experience.
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5 speed and 3.54 differential are sweet.
Many nissan ecus will switch to open loop operation at 3500 and some even lower than that.
If that happens at your preferred highway cruising speed, your mileage suffers greatly.
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Replacing the stock pistons with forged flat tops would be the ideal setup as the factory cast flat tops will easily lose parts of thier skirts on relatively mild detonation events.
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Initial overheating might have been air in cooling system......very common on first starts.
I always run the engine a few times and ease up to the point that the thermostat should be near to opening.
Then I shut it off and let conduction do it's thing.
Upon restart, I am usually greeted with a significant lowering of coolant level to which I add coolant and let run until I see flow through the radiator.
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The VH41DE did not have the variable valve timing so its rated hp and tq were correct. the heads also didn't flow quite as good. There are rumors that it is 1" skinnier. There are tons of other differences.
It is already under the 4.2 liter limit for the class in stock form.
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Before you start chopping things up, check out the 1992 nissan stanza throttle body.
I believe it is far better starting point and it is the same size.
There are a few flavors of the 60mm throttle body on nissans made by at least two manufacturers.
some fit better than others.
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Volvos had some super loud and obnoxious horns in the 80s 240 series cars.
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Make sure your fuel pressure regulator is doing it's job as well.
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I would check the front turn signal bulbs (or anywhere else that uses the 1157 dual contact bulb).
Toyotas are notorious for feeding back through a bulb that was installed 180 degrees off.
Or you have a ground that is not working and the car is seeking ground through the other lights.
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How viscous does the oil on the dipstick feel?
Maybe the oil is thinned out?
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Some guys have gone to the Z32 engine management system and edited the prom to ignore missing sensors and cam actuation equipment.
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Nissan won many championships without stroker engines.
Sure, a stroker will have more horsepower than a non-stroker but, if your horsepower goals are relatively sane, there is no need to triple the price of your engine build.
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Too late....I heard it.....strange how it keeps coming up.
Your P79 will run identical to the P90 on a F54 with flattops and I ran one 20,000 miles at 7psi boost without any liner issues.
Higher boost............not so sure of liner longeivity.
I did switch back to the p90 head because I was worried but they looked fine upon inspection.
You won't be able to run as much boost as with the dished pistons but that is a bit debatable since I don't think I've seen anyone run high boost with forged flat tops in a L28 turbo car yet and the quench pad (p90 and p79) brings detonation resistence that is compromised by a dished piston.
Of course, the dished piston is lower compression ratio.
I've run 87 octane with 6psi and an intercooler without pinging and a good tune could possibly allow higher boost even with 87 since I am doing it on a non-tuned ecu that features pretty aggressive timing advance that was mapped for a non-turbo engine.
I mentioned 87 but I don't recommend running anything but 92 or 93 octane with the f54 flat top and p79 combination.
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On a L28 without excessive blow-by, you shouldn't hear anything.
If you have blow-by you should hear a growling noise and putting your hand plugging the hole might even cause pressure to build that you will notice when you remove your hand on a car with huge amounts of blow-by.
There are varying degrees of this and what I described is "whole engine blow-by" and just a single cylinder with the amount of smoking mentioned would manifest itself as muted pops through the oil cap hole instead of a groan.
Usually, if an engine has enough blow by to make clouds of smoke, then you should expect that it will expel exhaust gases past the rings into the crankcase.
A properly running L28 with stock breather hose routing may actually misfire as removing the oil cap will allow air that was not metered by the air flow meter to enter the engine and cause a miss in some cases.
Some guys run into the misfire when they remove the hose that goes from the valve cover to the induction system between the air flow meter and the throttle body and instead use a filter on the valve cover barb.
If you don't have any of the "blow-by" symptoms described, then rejoice that you instead have leaking valve stem seals.
Of course, removing the head to fix the seals will also allow you to inspect the bores which might show some scuffing.
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You would be able to tell if it was rings or valve stem seals by listening to the oil cap when the engine is running.
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A man with his priorities in order.
Car and driver did it in 1985
Is my engine locked up?
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
Pull the spark plug of the cylinder where the distributor rotor is pointing and look inside.