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HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Then it shouldn't be hard to produce a part number or a picture.
The LD28 patrols were not turbo.
The RD28 patrols were available with turbo.
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Yet nobody....even the guys in the New Zealand forums, have seen one that didn't have a modified L20et or L28et manifold.
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Then you can post the part number of the exhaust manifold so I can check it against my nissan diesel fiche.
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Pics? I've worked on many nissan forklifts and ordered parts for them and I don't remember seeing any turbos attached to LD28s either in real life or on the microfiche.
The only LD28s with turbos I have seen were some marine conversions and a couple of conversions done for industrial pumps.
As far as turbo choice?
Mercedes runs a 45 trim T3 on a 3 liter 5 cylinder om617 engine.
Many volvos and saabs used 45 trim T3s and I see them everywhere at the junkyards.
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What LD28 was offered with a turbo by the manufacturer?
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I used a recirculation valve picking up from right in front of the throttle body and ran that to the turbo inlet as described above.
The car has a stock "vacuum control valve" that is enough for the small volume of boost in the stock J pipe but I added a recirc. valve when the intercooler went on since the volume of pressurized air is much higher.
It's dead quiet unless you have the air cleaner top off.....then you can hear it working.
Be careful choosing valves as some are pulled open by vacuum at idle and require that they are plumbed somewhere between the maf and the turbo inlet.
If you run these valves with the dump open to the atmosphere, you will be pulling air through the valve and bypassing the maf.
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I've got the entire setup but am having second thoughts at swapping the LD28t for the current L28et in my Infiniti M30.
I feel the setup needs a car with better aero than what I have so maybe a 240sx will have to do.
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I use a snap punch and all but one has come out over the years........so I used a regular punch on that one.
I was at a party and some girl asked me to give her a ride home while claiming to love Z cars.
Some wannabe suitor decided to hide my keys in an attempt to give her a ride home himself but I had a snap punch in the center console and further impressed her when I stripped the column cladding, quickly took off the lock, and drove off with her.
Once the snap off bolts are out, you remove the switch from the back of the lock and use a screwdriver to start the car.
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Getting the l28et manifold fitted up is not very easy as the intake ports are much lower in the LD28.
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Definately get it running or at least the drivetrain complete.
In the case of a build like yours, the car itself is but a shell that can be replaced by one better at a later date but a complete car, whether running or not, is far more attractive to a potential buyer.
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Those are really cool and truly ensure great ventilation.
If I got a 2+2, those windows would be the reason.
I'll look around here in florida but I would really like to make something similar that will work with the 2 seater.
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WTF do bonneville speeds and drag have to do with the original post?
I haven't seen any speed claims from the original poster.
Tony will throw his weight around and run off a legit asset to this community.
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Never seen a ridge either..........just something that comes off with mild rubbing and carb cleaner.
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My current engine has reused the rod and head bolts through 3 different configuration changes and engine installations in multiple cars for about 10 years.
That doesn't mean someone else won't have a rod bolt break 1 week after replacing rod bearings but reusing the bolts on his pristine 1983 ZX with 83k miles on the clock.
I've also seen someone actually put 65 foot pounds on the rod bearings and only stopped because the 9th bolt he torqued started stretching and he checked to find he was using the wrong torque.
For a LD28, replacing rod bolts with ARP is a no brainer as well as a high HP or high RPM driven car.
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1986....Washington DC......constitution avenue at rush hour.
Car: mazda RX-5 cosmo.
Pulling out of the library of congress, throttle goes to floor...no acceleration.......pull over halfway on crosswalk.
Throttle cable is snapped.
Bummed out.........weedeater is on reclined passenger seat....
Unwind the trimmer line, disconnect old throttle cable with diagonal cutters and attach trimmer line to throttle linkage and route cable from carb over the engine and around the tall oil filler tube for 90 degrees to get it pointed at the hole in the firewall.
Then attach to pedal and drive away just as police shows up.
Two weeks later....same spot.....transistor fired fuel pump no longer works but does pulse a single time per being energized.
Yank off door sill on passenger side, find fuel pump wire, cut and extend it so I end up with two wires with bare ends on passenger seat close to console.
Tape one wire to the seat and tap other wire's bare end to it repeatedly as you drive away.
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Must have been because it's parts weren't as "all things equal" as a 1UZFE when it comes to metallurgy...
I have to ask though, any clue as to the bend con rods? That takes some serious work!
It was a LSA cadillac CTS-v with a V650 hennessey kit.
The owner somehow got it to downshift (automatic) into a gear that should normally be off limits due to the rpm at the time.
I'm not sure if they modified the transmission shift algorithms but most all stock algorithms usually don't allow a shift that would put the engine in an overrev situation.
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I just pulled a cts-v LSA engine and it had four bent pushrods and two bent connecting rods.
The car had an automatic transmission.
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I routinely see Lexus LS400s with over 200k miles and only one or two valve lash settings are slightly out of adjustment..............after never having been adjusted for the life of the car.
They are not hydraulic.
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Sweet!!!
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The turbo does not whine at idle on the L28et.
I've run them with straight pipes but I really like the sound from running the big VG30et cat without a muffler........as long as the car is turbo.
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M30 has a different connector.
It does run the L28ET nicely in my M30 after customizing the M30 harness.
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Sweet.........was wondering about that.
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If the car had an oil cooler, then the ball is in the adapter housing and a small freeze plug is in the block.
I'm not sure if the later manual transmission 280zx turbo had the oil cooler but all of the automatics did.
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Proper routing of water cooling lines on the turbo might get you a bit of residual coolant flow through convection.
Backbone Chassis
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
My bud build a few similar machines when he worked as a fabricator for mosler.