HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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I mounted mine in the block because I really wanted it above the oil level.
If the oil level is ever higher than the hole in the pan, you will surely get oil coming out if the crankcase pressure ends up higher than atmospheric........unless you use some soft of super dipstick seal and a tang like some of the automatics use.
I extended the pickup using stock parts welded together but I had a few of them and used half of one for the flange for the turbo drain.
It has to be tucked up relatively tight and I bent down the pan baffle to clear it.........probably would have been better to cut a perfect round slot but I wanted it done right then and wasn't about to spend a ton more time chasing every single shaving from the die grinder since they are particularly nasty and I don't have a parts washer.
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The only Z31s with a L series engine that I've seen were all SCCA GT cars and I've even seen a few 240sx GT cars with L series engines..........even a few Z32s but I guess the racers have developed the v6 enough to do away with that........but for far more money.
I drilled into the block at a steeper angle such that the stick hole comes out through near where one of the bolt holes would be if the front pickup boss had them but it is a little too close to the pan to keep the angle from being too extreme.
I also had to drill the baffle in the pan but not a big deal.
I used a Mr gasket dipstick for a ford but avoid it since I found flaking on the stick itself to the point that I sanded off the offending metal that was flaking off........I also cut the stick shorter such that it hangs out about 1/4 an inch above the bottom of the first generation maxima L24e pan.
Poor product, if you ask me.
It's possible that one could just drill the front boss (a some have suggested) but I just don't like the fact that it looks very much like it passes right through the oil passage because the rear sump L28 pickup boss requires the block to be drilled right past the front stick boss.........which would not be drilled in stock configuration.
You can see the hole in the front boss where the stick comes out on this block that got filled with water during a hurricane.
My finger is on the front dipstick boss and you can see it would have to pass through the oil passage.
Care must be taken to make sure the pickup that you extend doesn't sit right in front of the stick making the stick hit it instead of going all the way down.
I first made my turbo oil return system so I had a nice hole in the side of the pan to look through to make sure I had the pickup screen near....but not on the bottom of the pan.
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You could modify a 1981 280zx turbo pulley to duplicate the z31 style signal (wider slot in cylinder 1 than the rest) but then you would have to rely on a part that hasn't been made in many years.
Next is to check the distributor disc on the obd2 ecu vg30s single cams and hunt around the engine for any type of crank reference sensor.......maybe even today.
If the waveform is the same as the Z31 distributor waveform then it should be gravy.............unless there is a true crank position sensor on engine.
Off to the junkyard.
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The saddest part is that the dealership pay structure reward parts changers and penalizes the true diagnostic technicians.
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Going to try to clean up this old thread......the "new forum software" of a few years ago change seems to work better now.
Two years ago, I bought a M30 with a spun rod bearing and just went to a junkyard and got another cap and used bearing so I could move it around without it throwing a rod and ruining the block.
So......I suspended the engine on a sling I made from a 4x4 with some chains and large eye bolts with long threaded shanks so I could do the measurements needed to attempt a VG30et since I have every part to do so.
In the mean time, I bought another crank but soon found the VG30et swap would not be a fun road to go down because of the already too steep steering shaft angles as delivered from the factory to the point that the u-joints are almost binding which would be made worse by trying to fit a Z31 turbo crossmember........and I wasn't interested in laying down the rack....which again makes the angles more steep.
The other alternative is making one's own turbo manifolds to relocate the turbo and possibly losing power steering or A/C.
I got discouraged and it sat for 2 years.
Upon getting fired and my landlord putting the house up for sale, I needed to make this car mobile so I just installed what I had lying around which is a L28et and a built 3n71b.
I had already converted it to a front sump by relocating the oil pickup and fitting a front sump oil pan from a first generation maxima (l24e) as well as drilling a new dipstick hole (not in the front blank dipstick boss because it goes through an oil galley which is drilled deeper in the rear sump iteration of the L28.........unless you want to shove a plug down the passage to the proper depth).
Yes it will receive the proper studs at each end of the manifold.
I also own a 1984 rear wheel drive maxima which is similar to the M30 in many dimensions and I also had spare engine mount brackets as well as the sump because this L28et was supposed to go in that car but I just bolted turbo manifolds onto the stock L24e and drove it 50,000 miles that way.
It's for sale on this site.
The maxima mounts were perfect for front to rear location but had the engine 2 inches too high so I found that S30 or S130 mounts would mount the engine (kind of) closer to the proper height and had the proper front to back location........but not ready for prime time.
Time to cut and weld the S30 mounts which seem damn weak as delivered from factory compared to the S130 (280zx) mount but the tranny mount is what is designed to combat front/rear movement.
Right side is actually a S130 mount but they are same dimension but with extra bracing in between.
Turns out is is a lot more of a pain in the ass and requries mucho time on the grinder but I was able to drill a hole through both the stock portion and my welded pad which will have a bolt in case my welds turn out be metal caulking (not likely as I used a torch to preheat the work area)
I cut them shorter and re-angeled them rather than molest the crossmember since I may want to fit the soon to be rebuilt VG30.
I do have a spare crossmember that might be for sale soon.
Left side mount made from s30 (no webbing between legs).
On the left mount, I cut a slot in the added pad and fed the front "leg and foot" through it for an extra measure of safety should my welds suck and break.
I would have done the right side that way but I cut the wrong leg off and had to end up cutting both.....Doh!!
If I don't mount something to the extra bit of pad, I will probably cut of the extra bit but it does clear the 280zx a/c compressor.
Next was my ghetto turbo drain I have put on many a car but this time I actually had the engine out of the car when I installed it.....but it was designed to do while the engine is in the car without removing pan.
Details on this turbo drain are on this post link below.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=820316&postcount=30
Then it was time to mount a 3n71b tranny which isn't longer than the stock tranny but the bellhousing has to move back a few inches to restore stock L engine clearance to firewall which means the tailshaft also sits further back.
Ultimately, the car will sport a FS5R30 tranny using Austin Hoke's adapter but time and money dictate I not spend the cash on a flywheel and clutch parts at this time.
Now to contemplate whether to just put the 280zx turbo yoke on the front of the two piece stock m30 shaft that is designed to work with an "extra long nose" (m30 diff has 3/4 inch longer pinion shaft) r200 but I would rather swap in a standard length long nose since I would have a hard time finding another M30 diff. in case it fails and would have to send out the driveshaft yet again if I swapped in a standard long nose later.
That one shiny bolt is ground such that it fits like a glove into a countersunk hole.
Yes I will be tying the two individual mounts together on that one side........someday if necessary.
More pics to follow of clearance between s30 fan/clutch assembly and stock radiator as well as 280zx turbo radiator which seems to fit.
My plan is to run a 1987 300zx turbo ecu first since I have one and an adapter made from the connector of a m30 ecu and 300zx harness plugs but it will eventually run on a late VG single cam engine'd nissan quest or pathfinder ECU in the hopes that I can fool an emissions inspector (if I move to an inspection state or Obama has his way) by blowing clean readings and the car looking stock underhood with no shiny pipes or racer boy looking stuff.
Another benefit of those late vg30e ecus from a quest is that they are obdII.
I have not cut anything on the car itself other than the stock exhaust pipe just after it collects though I will cut the harness since I have a spare.
The stock 280zx turbo turbo elbow/downpipe clears the steering shaft like the car was made for it.
Yes that O2 adapter is bolted using the bolt holes from the heat shield and guess what?.......they aren't metric but instead are size 10 with the fine 32 threads per inch pitch.
Good luck getting them out of any 280zx elbow you have without snapping them off but I got lucky.
Yes, my hand is wrapped around the steering shaft between it and the turbo elbow but the egr is not as close to the firewall as the picture makes it to be.......plenty of clearance for all of the 280zx turbo hardware.
Better pic of bay.
So far, every part on the car is genuine nissan except for the brackets for the tranny, the adapter for the 02 sensor, and a few hose clamps.
I will be lowering the engine another inch but it will require a slight denting to clear the front sway bar when suspension is hanging and fabricating a custom downpipe which turns back sooner than the factory setup to keep the exhaust system tucked up clean.
It's all labor and has cost me nothing since I had these parts laying around from an aborted Z31 turbo project and the maxima turbo project. -
You would also need to change the oil pump shaft.
The 1981 turbo distributor drops right in on the n/a shaft but it's empty!!
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Edited for strange double post.
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I've been running a 1984 L24e with stock compression ratio and 280zx turbo hardware on it with the stock injectors, stock 1982 280zx non-turbo ecu and air flow meter, and stock boost for the last 50,000 miles with no troubles............but I have to run 93 octane.
With an intercooler and the 280zx turbo or 300zx turbo management system, you could probably run up to 10psi on 93 octane on a non-turbo compression ratio.
Keep in mind what kind of fuel you intend to run when deciding on compresion ratio.
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I bought aluminum brazing rods at harbor freight and can repair a coke can bottom with a 1/4 inch hole in it.
It's trade name in the old days was "aladdin rod".
I haven't yet tried it for anything other than showing my buddies I can repair a beer can.
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Doh.........just remeasured a f54 and it is 16 5/8 but the rivet that holds the tab must have caught when I saw 17 earlier.
Now as far as mounts go, the S30 and S130 mounts end up with center of the mount even with the block's bolt holes front to back but the first generation maxima mounts are shifted backwards about 1 3/4 which ends up almost the center of gravity of the longblock.
The s30/s130 mount rear bolt holes are the same distance from center as the maxima mount points.
The rearward shift was necessary to mount the L28 in my M30 but I ended up cutting up some S30 mounts because it was about 2 inches too high with the first generation maxima mounts and the angles did not match the crossmember.
There is more at the link below which details the swap.........I might be helpful.
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17 inches.
Tell us what car you intend to put it in and we might have more information.
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EGR maybe
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I was able to check out a 1997 quest with a VG30e single cam engine and it had the post cat 02 sensor.
When money permits, I will experiment with this ecu on the L28et.
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The reason for the spool gun is that aluminum is too soft to be pushed 10 feet.
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Here's one.....
If welding aluminum, make sure it isn't magnesium.
Here's something helpful....
Clean the clamp that goes to your work.
I watch people bouncing the wire off of their work and cussing up a storm all time because of this.
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Cool.........I'll save all the cases/housings, valve body, and shafts while looking for the best application for a starting point.
These transmissions are stronger than people know as I had a stocker 100,000 mile, 10 year old 3n71b last 1 year behind a bridgeported 13b that I shifted at 8500 rpms many times a day.
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All of the gearsets have 3 planets.
Now, I am curious. Are there 4n71b with 4 planet gearsets?
The output shaft is larger diameter like the 3n71b found in the 280zx turbo rather than the thinner one found in the N/A models but I've heard the first generation maxima iteration is weak compared to the 300zx version but maybe that's down to the number of friction plates and clutch plates.......not sure.
As far as mods go, they sound like the mods I did in 1981 to the 3n71b that came in my RX-2 which are along the lines of the B&M shift kit available at the time.
I guess they now call them "level 10 mods".
Since this is a L4n71b and not a E4n71b, should I be keeping the cases as well?
I was wondering if the hydraulic 4n71b is more desirable for a high hp build.
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This is an autopsy of the L4n71b from my 1984 maxima with 277,000 miles (50,000 miles after turbocharging).
One day out of the blue, the car was reluctant to shift to 2nd gear but it did shift a bit delayed on the way home from work.
A few miles later, I was putting down power while turning pretty hard (sticky comp T/As 225/50-15) and lost drive when the inside tire broke loose causing the car to from 1st to 2nd to 3rd in quick succession.
This was followed by loss of drive in 3rd and a ringing type grinding noise that lasted for 2 seconds and no more noise........but no 3rd gear either.
I drove the last two miles home with 1st and 2nd gear only.
The car also had no reverse.
Upon disassembly, I found this.
Parts are as they are in tranny.....left to right is front to rear.
No trouble here from convertor to rear of overdrive unit.
There it is...........just behind the drum support that centers the overdrive unit on the front face and the drum that contains the front clutches and front planetary set.
I usually don't see this failure on this type of tranny.
Look where the "drums" meet and you will see they no longer have "teeth" with which to mesh like the assembly above or the one behind it.
Looks like the non-metal thrust washer split and fell out allowing the front drum to rub on the back of the drum support......which would be the back of the front pump if it didn't have an overdrive unit sandwiched between the bellhousing and the rest of the tranny.
I placed half of the washer where it belongs but all both halves were in the pan when I opened it up.
The added play allowed the drum that contains the front and rear clutches as well as planetaries to not fully mesh the "connecting shell" which is really just another drum that doesn't have a band acting on the outside of it.
You can see where the lack of thrust washer allowed the drum to rub the support in the center as well as on that bright spot at the top of the pic.
It's usually a planet seizing in one of the planetary gear sets that I find or burning.........and then a planet seizing...........after one is overheated to the point that the non-metal thrust washers compress or break up causing tolerance trouble and possibly low pressure system wide.
Different damage and causation in my case than most I've seen but it always seems to be the non-metal thrust washers that start the cascade of failures.
Since I found zero wear or damage to any of the gearsets or anywhere else, I fully believe these would last forever if .......
1. Fluid is replaced any time tranny has gotten hot to restore some sort of film to keep metal to metal contact from happening.
2. Non-metallic thrust washers were replaced with some sort of metal thrust washers that don't melt when tranny does get hot.
Now that I think of it, this is the first 4n71b failure I've seen without burning or contamination causing undue wear since only large chunks came off and fell down rather than smaller debris being sent throughout the tranny to grind it to death.
Time to go back outside and rescue the innards for future use.
I think I might see just how far I can build up a 4n71b using 300zx turbo parts since I now have a bellhousing with which to mount the stronger Z31 box to a L series engine.
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Pathfinder FS5R30....Length (bellhousing to tailhousing): 28.50"
Shifter Position (bellhousing to center pivot): 27.0"
Trans Mount position (bellhousing to center of mount) forgot the number but seems to be about 25.0" to 25.5"
It also sports a very cool longshifter that angles backward such that the knob in neutral ends up about 30 inches from bellhousing.
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Also check the wiring diagram to see if they share the same 5 volt reference voltage circuit.
Even newer obdII cars will throw a code for a tps when the real problem is the map or mass air flow sensor for the very reason that they share the ref. voltage circuit.
Very common in jeep 4.0 liters.
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Pressure is one thing but it won't combat low pressure that is the result of loose bearing clearances.
A higher volume pump can help in that instance but it's best to fix the cause of they symptom (low oil pressure) rather than use a band-aid.
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Seat definately fell out.
Ferdinand porsche had that happen on the first volkswagen beetle during an endurance test when he was descending a hill and shock cooling caused a seat to fall out.
They took a feeler gauge, put it between the seat and the head, hammered the seat in, and then broke off the feeler gauge and drove the car a few thousand miles with no troubles.
Is your thermostat sticking open?
I'll guess somebody knife edged the throttle body and that's what caused the screw to fall out in the earlier mishap?
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The reverse light switch is mentioned in the service manual.
And something on the opposite side called the reverse check sleeve.
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That would be the computer not seeing either tps or air flow meter.
New Dyno Numbers
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Considering the sweetness of the sound and the fact that you are getting 231hp to the wheels, who needs a turbo?
That's a lively car you've got there.