HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Cam out of time 180 degrees?
It might be pointing at cylinder 1 but I would pull the valve cover and see if the cylinder 1 cam lobes are facing up.
If not, do what was suggested above by re-indexing the oil pump shaft.
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It's getting difficult to find a muffler that..........muffles.
Most companies cater to people who want to mount a rear muffler that makes the car louder than the stock iteration.
Amazing job on getting clearance where there is none.
Back in the early 80s, I used to run rotaries (RX-2 with bridge ported 13-
and one had to run three mufflers to make the car tolerable without killing the power.On a "long primary" system (the collector is at the rear of the car instead of the front) we used two straight through bullet mufflers packed with stainless wool on the primary pipes and a huge honking rear muffler that cost a fortune.......I think it was called a "primaflow" muffler.
The price of the primaflow was excessive so on later cars I made a "Y" after a certain distance of collected exhaust and ran two "turbo mufflers" side by side oriented 45 degrees for clearance issues (too tall when standing up).
As I get older, I like my cars to make less and less noise.
I also haven't had a ticket in 20 years which I attribute to super stealthy exhaust note.
You should submit that design to borla and get some cash.
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We used to balance plane props with nothing more than a fast strobe and a video camera on a tripod but the new digital cameras might work even better since they net a much clearer picture of each frame.
I used to use a strobe type spin balancer (just the strobe and trigger) and mount the strobe trigger to the tailshaft of the tranny and then to the diff.
Then all you had to do was have somebody up in the car run it at a certain mph and read which number you saw illuminated by the strobe to find the heavy side.
Got the idea from watching Danny Arredondo using the tire spin balancer at Z shop of miami.
The problem was finding the speed that worked with the balancer and the fact that a driveshaft shop can balance one infinitely better.
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The end result is that you have to change your driving style when comparing most locking type diffs to an open or VLSD diff.
Most every locking diff will induce power-on understeer for the basic fact that most locking diffs will fight having both side wheels going a different speed to some extent when power is applied.
While testing at any track with a carousel in an r200 equipped car, I've found that the VSLD to have the least power-on understeer but the stock nissan implementation will never carry one through even half a season of Improved Touring racing let alone a higher powered class and many VLSD only last a few laps in classes that don't allow a pumped diff. cooler.
I'm sure there are some crazy expensive VLSD out there but I am not aware of them.
They just weren't made for long term thrashing.
With a VLSD, you can get on the power sooner while a mechanical locking diff. will require you to change your driving style in that you "re-index" your braking/turning/acceleration events to later in the turn to keep the power-on understeer from rearing it's head to the extent it either eats up front tires or hurts your lap times because you encounter understeer as you power out of the corner.
This means a change from getting all your braking done in a straight line and powering out to braking deep and putting power down only after you are again going relatively straight.
Then you've got the guys who use slip to point the car in while braking late and can get on the power sooner but that technique requires a lot more driver attention and is subject to being hard on rear tires and brakes.
I am a lexus tech and lexus uses open diffs. and computerized braking schemes to control yaw and, as said above, will burn up brakes quickly on a road course........but lexus designed the system thinking of the average driver who got in over his head or ran into an unexpected change in road conditions.
I'm not sure open diff./electronic controlled braking for yaw control will ever be ironed out for road racing because you need your brakes for..............braking and any braking usage beyond retarding the car's speed is counter productive to brake heat and wear.
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I believe the one in the picture has a thermostat like the early rotaries I had in my RX2s.
I think if you unscrew that bolt near the fittings, you should find a bypass/thermostat there.
Back in the early 80s I had many a discussion on oil versus water temperature on Improved Touring RX-2s with the Kearneys who ran at summit point.
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I've swapped a few flanges back and forth on r200s and no troubles.
The 280zx turbo has a semi-rectangular flange which I would imagine is stronger than the circular one found on s12 200sx and non-turbo 280zx.
Not sure if they are stronger but nissan felt must have done it for a reason.
Not sure about the 300zx flange, though.
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Quick hijack.
Hey daeron......have L28 mounted again in M30 and will have pics soon and writeup on mounts.
I used the front sump from a first generation maxima and it clears fine with the engine low enough to have enough hood clearance.
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A lot of confusion in some posts above.
The engine management system doesn't care that the car has turbo hardware until you run out of injector flow rate.
I know......I'm currently running turbo hardware on non-turbo ecu and harness and it's fine under stock boost.
First thing to do is have someone crank it while you use a timing light and see if cylinder 1 fires when it is supposed to.
If not, you will have to remove the oil pump and index the shaft properly.
A timing light is a great diagnostic tool overlooked by many. I also use one to determine where noises come from and to see excessive runout on moving parts.
Are you sure the car has fuel pressure?
Are the plugs wet?
The answers to these two questions will mean very different problems.
If you find your fuel pump is not running while the engine is either running or trying to run...........check below.
Depending on the model year, there are 3 fuel pump schemes on the N/A cars alone and that's just on cars from 1981 to 1983.
Some have one relay, some have two and some have three.
I don't have wiring diagram of the 1979 system and I believe they use the e12-80 module which means less ecu integration concerning fuel pump operation.
I believe (but not completely sure) that the 1979 system uses both the alternator and oil pressure switch to ensure fuel pump operation.
That is where you should start.........if the fuel pump does not continue to run once the car is started.
It uses these to determine whether the engine is turning rather than in the turbos and later ecu types which won't energize the fuel pump relay(s) beyond the initial prime until the ecu sees a good crank angle sensor waveform.
I don't think the 1979 has a microswitch in the air flow meter to energize the a fuel pump relay like the 1975 to 1978 cars....but it might....don't remember.
If the plugs are wet and you have a cylinder head temp sensor (not all zx do), clean the terminals.
Another thing (if there is no switch in the air flow meter) is to unplug the air flow meter and throttle switch. The car should idle without these.
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Never mind..........got some........seems that the S30 and s130 are the same dimensions with the S30 brackets being easier to work with since they have a lot less bracing.
The down side is that they are plenty weak.
Moderators........feel free to delete.
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I used to repo cars........in Liberty City.
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Damn dude........you should sign your stuff.
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Speaking of dimensions, what about external dimensions.
I can provide maybe pictures with markings overlaid to show the dimensions of both front and rear sump versions as well with and without stock turbo connected......if anybody wants that.
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What does he mean by "the sunroof has been deleted?" I hope he means that it just doesn't work....
First generation maximas have leakage problems with the sunroof........bad leakage.
Many times, the sluice where the water is supposed to collect rusts and drains into the car.
If it doesn't leak into the car, the stock routing puts the water into the rocker panels and it's supposed to drain from little holes very near where the jack points are. One misplaced jacking will bugger them and they will clog which causes them to fill.
If you want the car to last, it is best to get the sunroof in a good position and use a black polyurethane caulk like sikaflex.
If I were selling one, I would wait a few months until gas goes back up to 4 bucks a gallon.
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Exactly what I am thinking.
I see this symptom about 4 times a day during my 20 call average day.
The ecu isn't liking a signal that it requires when going into closed loop operation.
I'm not sure what they have in japan but one would think they don't dumb down the ecus since they already make them damn smart for the US market.
They should have some sort of freeze frame data that records the datalist at the time the ecu detects a problem.
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One thing that just popped into my head.....
When swapping into an older car, what does one do concerning placating the immobilizer system?
I'm pretty sure most any VQ equipped car uses this for anti-theft.
Or do most use an aftermarket stand-alone system.
Testing ECUs for standard motor products, I am able to beat most immobilizers but not the newer nissan and toyota setups.....not yet anyway.
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I seem to have lost one but will buy both if necessary.....just the brackets.
I will drive over and pick them up and pay $25 bucks anywhere within 100 miles of west palm beach.....no work on your part required.
I need this pronto and can possibly find one at a local u-pull for 6 bucks but again.....I need this right away.
I will check back tonight and tomorrow morning before going to the u-pull yards.
I can check this from my blackberry.
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Adding info. for future searchers.
The best way is to use a 4n71b that was originally in a z31 turbo because it is indeed stronger than the maxima iteration having more friction plates/discs.
Use the maxima L24e bellhousing, flywheel, and convertor on it and it will fit.
The caveat is that you will have to find a very early z31 turbo automatic tranny (L4n71b instead of (E4n71b).
The E version uses a tranny control module but I haven't tried it with the L engine management system/sensors.......etc.
If the control module doesn't see what it wants to see, you won't get overdrive and possibly lock-up.
The L4n71b doesn't need a control unit.
Another possible problem is that the 4n71b from a maxima has a very low stall speed which won't allow you to launch with any boost.....it will come in about 60 feet from the start.
If the convertor from the z31 version has the same dimensions.......you can use it to gain enough stall speed to make a huge difference in acceleration.
If you're going turbo, use the turbo modulator from either a 280zx turbo or z31 turbo as well as the small rod that it acts on since there are different lengths.
One other possible problem is the downshift switch on the gas pedal.
With a turbo, it is easily possible to get the car going fast enough in 4th with lockup at part throttle such that stepping further and engaging the kick-down switch will cause the car to go to 3rd.
If you're going fast enough, you could possibly overrev the engine by a large margin when it kicks down from 4th to 3rd.........pretty harsh when you're going over 120 and it downshifts causing your engine to rev over 7200rpms coupled with the possibility you could break traction to the rear tires at that speed.
I rig a switch on the dash inline with the downshift switch on all my 4n71b trannies behind a strong motor.
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Well that's certainly good to hear and should ally any fears as to longeivity.
I'm not a big fan of iron or steel liners in an aluminum engine and mentioned the potential problems in my "ridiculous" post above.
I like to work on them only once and drive them every day for years without anything other than fluids and such.
Every suggestion I made was purposely written with an out to avoid the term ridiculous being applied to it.......it's the politician's way.
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WD40 will not keep rust at bay for more than a couple of days.
Garbage bags, scissors, and tape is what I use.
I use a heavier oil that is used in the aviation industry specifically for that.
It's probably a bit like fogger oil for storing outboards.
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I used to work on subarus and someday there will be the last XT with non-cracked cylinder heads at a barrett jackson commanding high prices.
The air suspension shocks are super expensive and dirt road driving guarantees a sharp rock will end up between the "bag" and shock which will hole it soon enough.
They also have the worst shifter in the world and I still have scars just from shifting one with worn shifter hardware causing me to punch the radio........which is far less fun than punching the clown.
They're damn fast and a bit more aerodynamic than the original subaru RX from the same time period but without the super rarity of the original RX pictured below.
If any of you see one of these for sale......please let me know.
If you are a subaru tech, go for it.
If not, expect to pay and pay and pay to keep it on the road.
If you already have a L series engine, go on over to the "small port heads" thread.
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I would agree with renatodato.
The black box bolted to the side of the distributor is usually the culprit with the symptoms described.
We used to tap near them on a solid piece of the distributor housing with a brass drift at Z shop of miami but I got to the point that I would run the car, experience the failure and use freeze spray on the distributor housing since it is basically heat sinked to it.
If cooling it brough the car back to running, then I replaced it with a new one.
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The Stefan-Boltzman law covers this but at a higher level then I care to research.
It also applies to black bodies (bodies being the natural color and not a covering)
That said, all of the radiators I see at lexus and toyota since they went over to aluminum are not painted.
The 1986.5 to 1992 supras use an intercooler painted black.........but they were painted at the factory.
Painting an intercooler that has even experienced the least bit of exposure to the elements would probably net you flaking paint and I'll bet toyota went to extreme lengths such as the proper primer, and possibly dipping it to ensure it didn't flake off.
Now if you just want to make it less visible, you can probably get away with "dusting" it such that only the cans and just the very front face of the fins get's paint while leaving the other 99.9 percent of the surface area of the fins unaffected.
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Stock or near stock HP levels, the VQ is king.
If you want big HP, GT motorsports or Forgedperformance are a good place to start.
At GTmotorsports, you can get a block with darton sleeves in it for $1795 (700 core charge........if you supply them a workable block).
This does not include boring or honing so figure in those prices in.
Forgedperformance offers a short block for $3490 fitted with arias pistons and eagle rods but the core charge on this is $1500.
http://forgedperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16354&cat=264&page=1
If you want insane power, you will also need a girdle which is $1000 but I'm not sure what power level would require a girdle on this engine.
I'll assume line the crank bores would need to be line bored after install but I don't know.
But hey.......some of the VQ crowd spend 10k to butcher their suspension and another 5k on appearance alone so it's really a drop in the bucket for an engine that can handle pretty high power levels.
Of course, you need to figure in cylinder head work (if required) for your desired power level manifolding, turbos, and plenum parts.
For my cheap ass?
I would fit darton sleeves, leave everything else stock except engine management and injectors, and boost it up a bit.
This would give you a bit of safety should you run into detonation at anything over about 500hp as it seems even one big detonation event has been known to break stuff on a non-sleeved engine.
Then there's the longeivity..........there isn't much long term study on whether you can sleeve the block and drive it 50,000 miles as a daily driver without having sealing issues and such.
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You might be able to stick one of those LED lights into the hole and see a bit........or use a borescope.
and one had to run three mufflers to make the car tolerable without killing the power.
L28D transmission
in Drivetrain
Posted
Tranny behind the LD28 maxima is a FS5W71b.
If you want to sell off stuff you don't want out of that package, try link below.
There are lots of very rare and specific parts on that engine and you might be able to fund the rest of your project.
Of course there are guys who fit the diesel with a turbo and then put that combination into an early Z car which nets near stock performance and almost 40mpg.
Might come in handy if gas goes back up to $4.00 a gallon again.
http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/index.php