TrumpetRhapsody

Wow Ok... time for a slice of humble pie. Apparently two years ago when I was troubleshooting this issue, I soldered everything back together with the Zener diode facing the wrong way (didn't work in either direction though). So what this tells me is that with the proper circuit out of the megamanual (apparently the 12v zener is ok), and by bypassing the internal resistor, this WILL work. My Z is outside running, with the tach reading. I rev'd it out to 6500rpm (or so it said) and it doesn't drop, looks smooth. From here I'll start seeing how accurate it is compared to logs. Thanks for the help everyone.

Wow Ok... time for a slice of humble pie. Apparently two years ago when I was troubleshooting this issue, I soldered everything back together with the Zener diode facing the wrong way (didn't work in either direction though). So what this tells me is that with the proper circuit out of the megamanual (apparently the 12v zener is ok), and by bypassing the internal resistor, this WILL work. My Z is outside running, with the tach reading. I rev'd it out to 6500rpm (or so it said) and it doesn't drop, looks smooth. From here I'll start seeing how accurate it is compared to logs. Thanks for the help everyone.

Hmm I ran into the same issue with finding the 16v zener, i'm also using the 4742A. I'll try running two inline like you did and see what happens real quick.

I've been updating over in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/73574-tach-with-edis-and-msii/page__view__findpost__p__926272 I've tried a 12v pullup, with or without the zener connected, with or without the 2.2k resistor inline, adding more resistors, I even dug the tach out the back of the dash and did the resistor bypass mod Six_shooter was talking about, to no avail. My tach only wants to work when I hold the wires a couple millimeters apart in my fingers, as soon as you touch the wires together it dies. Any last words before I throw in the towel and buy a real tach? My troubleshooting patience only goes so far, and I'd say 2 years is stretching it.

Just dug my tach out the back of the dash (that was quite the experience), and did the resistor bridging mod. While the signal is somewhat stronger when I pinch the wires together, directly connected it's still not working. When I get home tonight I'm going to re-do all my diodes and try one last time, just in case I overheated one while soldering. At that point if it still doesn't work I'm just going to give up and order an autometer tach. Stupid 260z's.

I tried that, still didn't work

I played with it more tonight. It seems like the 12v pullup doesn't really make that much of a difference in my case. With or without it, I get no movement on the tach until I pinch the wires together in my fingers separated by a couple mm. All I learned by hooking up the scope is that I don't really know how to use it Only thing I can say is that the pulses seemed taller when directly connected (maybe overwhelming the tach) and when scoped pinching with my fingers they were much shorter/more subdued. I don't know how to replicate the effect, or what to do from here. Any electrical guru's have some comments/suggestions? I know there are a few of you on here, speak up!

Not wood, but: Generic ebay wheel, the leather wrapped shift knob is from a 90's Acura Integra.

I've had the diodes facing the right way, that's not my problem. If no one has any suggestions i'm going to break out the scope tonight and see what i can figure out.

Ok uh... some help is needed. I added the 1K resistor to switched 12V (a 12v pullup, basically), and directly connected to the tach wire it does nothing, dead. Only when I held the two wires in my fingers did I notice that IT WORKS PERFECTLY. I guess the conductivity of my skin is enough of a buffer to make it work. I tried adding a few more 2.2K resistors inline to simulate the resistance of my skin but nothing worked. Only when I held the two wires a couple millimeters apart in my fingers could I get the tach to work. Somebody please tell me how to make this work haha. Is this an indication that I should try removing that resistor from the inside of the tach... or do I need something else? HELP! I'm at my wit's end with this.

Plenty have done swaps like this, I myself used housings from rallylights.com Now that you have proper housings, now is a good time to upgrade the harness with some relays and a direct feed. I think you'll appreciate the difference!

Bump. 2 Years later and still no tach for me lol. If I can get a 1k resistor before RadioShack closes I'm going to try your method tonight and report back. If your method doesn't work I'm going to dig the tach out of the dash and remove the internal resistor per this method: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/66137-how-to-modify-a-280z-tach-to-work-with-msd-for-free/ Maybe they accomplish the same thing? If none of that works, I'll either pull the MS box out and try Z-ya's method or just buy an autometer tach and be done with it haha.

The 240sx will bolt on with minimal drama (I used one breifly). The same belt will work, but you'll have to swap the pulley from your old alternator to the 240sx one, as they come with a serpentine pulley.

Awesome, just needed some peace of mind. Thanks John!

Bump from the dead. So this means I should order a BZ3012 to use in the rear of a 280z when sectioning struts, so that I get the right sized gland nut, correct? The sectioning FAQ doesn't mention this, and the "shortened struts" option on Beta's website lists BZ3015's for the rear, which I would think means I'd get the incorrect smaller 240z gland nuts.

Haha thanks Dave, will do. Still need to get this POS looking good, will have to hand it over to a bodyshop for a few months like you did lol. Nice man, glad to hear you've joined the good side of Nissans Sounds like a plan, can't wait!

Been getting the new boost level tuned in slowly but surely. I find it's tough to hit that kind of boost frequently enough for logging without risking getting arrested lol. I've given up on EAE and gone back to normal TPS based accel enrichment, and so far it's working pretty well. Still getting everything dialed in, but it's feeling nice! Also pulled the trigger on a cheapo ebay B&M short shifter clone... completely changes the feel of the car, I love it! Funny how sometimes the little things make all the difference.

Also if you'd read my sig, you'd see I am in fact running the extra code lol. Sorry to be harsh dude but that's exactly the kind of posts I spent the better part of my evening sorting through last night haha. One thing I forgot to put in the first post, is that I read about the fact that a lot of older stock fuel systems exclusively use fuel-cut as a limiter. Many NA-T people claim no ill effects, and some say that aftermarket overboost protectors also use fuel cut. Another consideration for us EDIS folk is whether to only cut fuel (if this thread proves there is no danger to do so), or cut fuel and spark to let EDIS default back to 10BTDC (if that is preferable to whatever timing you're at when you hit the limiter).

Great writeup X64v! I am curious whether this direct driving of the coils would work if I were to retain my existing EDIS trigger wheel VR input setup. Wouldn't be too hard of a retrofit if so, and I'd gain my spark cut rev-limiter back. I don't think there would be any conflict of inputs/outputs if I were to use the three LED outputs, set it as trigger wheel and specify 36-1. Opinions?

Alright so I spent the better part of last night searching the internet looking for personal accounts of the legitimacy of using fuel cut only as a rev limiter. Obviously I bring this up for us EDIS guys that don't have the option of spark cut. If a dedicated topic about this already exists I apologize, but I spent over an hour searching hybrid alone, so if there are topics here then the search function is useless. The obvious concern everyone spouts is going lean at high revs, detonating, and blowing up your motor. The main argument against this is the fact that once fuel is removed completely, there is not enough combustive power (even if it pre-ignites) to cause a significant detonation event. The counter argument being that yes, there is enough residual fuel to det and cause damage. Does anyone have any first hand knowledge on this, stories of someone hitting a fuel cut and blowing up their motor, or the opposite case where someone has used fuel cut in a drift car bouncing off rev limiter for months with no ill effects? Just trying to get some facts and weed out the baseless opinions.

Wow... again with large update gap. Lets see I guess the main thing I've done since last post was change over to a 280z hood (stock black color, rocking the panda), install my Hella E-Code yellow star headlights and relay harness upgrade, and just today finally installed the megasquirt boost controller mod. I have it set around 10psi currently (up from the stock 7) and the difference is pretty amazing already. It is spiking up to 13ish under part throttle, so I'll have to try and get that under control before I turn it up much more. I'll probably settle for now somewhere around 15-18psi, just need to get it all dialed in! I see that MS2/Extra has a new 3.1.0 code that supposedly improves closed loop boost control, so maybe I'll play with that once I get my tune dialed in a bit better with the higher boost. Looking above I still have the following left off that to-do list: - Weld up my mirror and side marker holes - Do a little rust maintenance and re-flatwhite the car - Polish the lip and repaint my current wheels - Get my EAE tuned a bit better - Swap to the 240z tail lights I have Maybe I'll get it all done by this year's Branson meet Next big thing in my bulls-eye is getting my coilovers and RB-R's bought and installed. That is probably going to still be several months away though. I've included a few of the more recent pics of my car, from Branson Z Fest last year. My best was a 13.2@106, which is pretty surprising considering my crappy tires.

*EDITED* Double post, no option to delete?

Been a great game, especially with the wheel, but I do have my gripes (especially after waiting 8 YEARS): - The progressive damage system is stupid. Sorry. - I don't like the used car system, I should be able to buy any car at any time. - I'm a Forza guy so I don't know if it's normal for the GT series... but the paint color system is DAFT. - The racing line is complete and utter ****, might as well not be there. The flashing red gear indicator is the only saving grace.

I play, gamertag FlyingTrumpet ... But my roomate just got GT5 and has a Logitech G25 wheel (best out IMO, won't break), so we'll be focused on that for the foreseeable future

I've still got quite a bit of clunk with your previous kit, so I may see about picking up your revised set and tearing the back into the diff again this winter to see if I can get it tighter.