TrumpetRhapsody

Here's some updated pics of the engine bay. My roommate was nice enough to polish the lettering on my valve cover, looks good Still need to tidy things up a bit, but it's making progress. Tuning is coming along nicely, hit 18psi somehow on one of the runs, but probably just a creep fluke, it's usually around 13-14. At these higher boost levels my unbaffled gas tank is rearing it's ugly teeth. Anything below half tank is not a good idea. It would also be nice to get a aeromotive FPR, new fuel filter, and have my injectors cleaned, but one step at a time

Alright, got her all buttoned up, and runs better than it EVER has. I got my 3/8" turbo spacer in the mail, but two of the studs were too short. So, while I had the exhaust manifold in the machine shop having the bolts extracted, I went ahead and had them true up the mating surface on the mani and downpipe flanges. Both surfaces were warped and leaking. Shamrock had the new studs I needed, for the both the t3 flange and hot-side outlet. I did go ahead and use proper gaskets, instead of RTV like I had planned. Hopefully they don't blow out again. I also went ahead and shaved the rest of the old wastegate bracket off the holset, and with my new-found clearance clocked it to a MUCH more ideal position. The angle coming out of the cold-side is soooo much better now. I wasn't able to find a gasket for the hot-side outlet, so I'm running copper RTV. Hopefully it will hold. It's like a different car now. It's never been this quiet or smooth. I can hear the turbo spool and blow-off at partial throttle/load now, which is something usually I'd only get under WOT. It spools sooner and quicker, and feels MUCH more powerful in general. I'll let everything settle in, get stuff re-torqued, then start upping the boost little by little. My tires are the limiting factor now though, safety may be an issue in the short term.

I like the new layout, it's nice to have all the stickies in one location. I too tended to forget which section certain writups were in. On that note, is there a timeline for fixing all the broken picture links, or is it even being worked on? Some of the writeups have become pretty useless after the IPB migration, losing all the pictures.

Alright, so a bit of an update. Last week I had my exhaust completely re-done. Took my downpipe flange to a local welder to have the outlet enlarged from 2.5 to 3", and have a section of 3" welded to it properly so my exhaust guy could make me a full 3" out to my original 3" bullet muffler. It's still crush bent, but oh well it'll do for now. Immediately I could tell the difference. Based on my logs, I was spooling around 1k rpm faster, and my boost creep was down to only 1psi or so vs the 3psi it was before. Unfortunately, I still had an exhaust leak. The exhaust guy noticed that he could wiggle my turbo. Once I took a closer look it became obvious that I was leaking around the T3 flange to the exhaust manifold, BADLY. I tore it apart tonight and found this: Click image for larger version Name: IMG_1240.jpg Views: 0 Size: 94.3 KB ID: 1045Click image for larger version Name: IMG_1241.jpg Views: 0 Size: 97.3 KB ID: 1046 Apparently at some point, I think on the way back from Branson Z Fest last year, I blew out one of the gaskets. On top of that, some of the nuts were a bit loose. So while I'm at it, I'm going to replace that gank spacer I hurriedly made just to get it running. I've ordered a 3/8" mild steel spacer and will use copper rtv instead of gaskets. Fingers crossed my new exhaust still fits right once I get it all back together.

I thought YOU bought and adjusted the FPR? That would be the reason it's so rich, excess fuel pressure. The cam would be likely to need a bit of extra fuel to compensate for the extra air, but not THAT much more

I'm no stock EFI expert, but I wouldn't go above stock fuel pressure levels. The super richness on WOT especially supports that. What I think you need to do is adjust your AFM at idle. Get it to a proper AFR using your wideband, then (at stock fuel pressure) do a WOT run and make sure it doesn't go so rich at the top end.

My tach lives! After two years I finally got my tach working, with much blood sweat and tears of course. I think back when I was last trying to get my tach working, I was messing around with reversing the Zener diode, well I soldered it back in backwards. Fixing that, plus digging the tach out the back of the dash and bypassing an internal resistor, got it working. No more redline guesswork!

Wow Ok... time for a slice of humble pie. Apparently two years ago when I was troubleshooting this issue, I soldered everything back together with the Zener diode facing the wrong way (didn't work in either direction though). So what this tells me is that with the proper circuit out of the megamanual (apparently the 12v zener is ok), and by bypassing the internal resistor, this WILL work. My Z is outside running, with the tach reading. I rev'd it out to 6500rpm (or so it said) and it doesn't drop, looks smooth. From here I'll start seeing how accurate it is compared to logs. Thanks for the help everyone.

Wow Ok... time for a slice of humble pie. Apparently two years ago when I was troubleshooting this issue, I soldered everything back together with the Zener diode facing the wrong way (didn't work in either direction though). So what this tells me is that with the proper circuit out of the megamanual (apparently the 12v zener is ok), and by bypassing the internal resistor, this WILL work. My Z is outside running, with the tach reading. I rev'd it out to 6500rpm (or so it said) and it doesn't drop, looks smooth. From here I'll start seeing how accurate it is compared to logs. Thanks for the help everyone.

Hmm I ran into the same issue with finding the 16v zener, i'm also using the 4742A. I'll try running two inline like you did and see what happens real quick.

I've been updating over in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/73574-tach-with-edis-and-msii/page__view__findpost__p__926272 I've tried a 12v pullup, with or without the zener connected, with or without the 2.2k resistor inline, adding more resistors, I even dug the tach out the back of the dash and did the resistor bypass mod Six_shooter was talking about, to no avail. My tach only wants to work when I hold the wires a couple millimeters apart in my fingers, as soon as you touch the wires together it dies. Any last words before I throw in the towel and buy a real tach? My troubleshooting patience only goes so far, and I'd say 2 years is stretching it.

Just dug my tach out the back of the dash (that was quite the experience), and did the resistor bridging mod. While the signal is somewhat stronger when I pinch the wires together, directly connected it's still not working. When I get home tonight I'm going to re-do all my diodes and try one last time, just in case I overheated one while soldering. At that point if it still doesn't work I'm just going to give up and order an autometer tach. Stupid 260z's.

I tried that, still didn't work

I played with it more tonight. It seems like the 12v pullup doesn't really make that much of a difference in my case. With or without it, I get no movement on the tach until I pinch the wires together in my fingers separated by a couple mm. All I learned by hooking up the scope is that I don't really know how to use it Only thing I can say is that the pulses seemed taller when directly connected (maybe overwhelming the tach) and when scoped pinching with my fingers they were much shorter/more subdued. I don't know how to replicate the effect, or what to do from here. Any electrical guru's have some comments/suggestions? I know there are a few of you on here, speak up!

Not wood, but: Generic ebay wheel, the leather wrapped shift knob is from a 90's Acura Integra.

I've had the diodes facing the right way, that's not my problem. If no one has any suggestions i'm going to break out the scope tonight and see what i can figure out.

Ok uh... some help is needed. I added the 1K resistor to switched 12V (a 12v pullup, basically), and directly connected to the tach wire it does nothing, dead. Only when I held the two wires in my fingers did I notice that IT WORKS PERFECTLY. I guess the conductivity of my skin is enough of a buffer to make it work. I tried adding a few more 2.2K resistors inline to simulate the resistance of my skin but nothing worked. Only when I held the two wires a couple millimeters apart in my fingers could I get the tach to work. Somebody please tell me how to make this work haha. Is this an indication that I should try removing that resistor from the inside of the tach... or do I need something else? HELP! I'm at my wit's end with this.

Plenty have done swaps like this, I myself used housings from rallylights.com Now that you have proper housings, now is a good time to upgrade the harness with some relays and a direct feed. I think you'll appreciate the difference!

Bump. 2 Years later and still no tach for me lol. If I can get a 1k resistor before RadioShack closes I'm going to try your method tonight and report back. If your method doesn't work I'm going to dig the tach out of the dash and remove the internal resistor per this method: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/66137-how-to-modify-a-280z-tach-to-work-with-msd-for-free/ Maybe they accomplish the same thing? If none of that works, I'll either pull the MS box out and try Z-ya's method or just buy an autometer tach and be done with it haha.

The 240sx will bolt on with minimal drama (I used one breifly). The same belt will work, but you'll have to swap the pulley from your old alternator to the 240sx one, as they come with a serpentine pulley.

Awesome, just needed some peace of mind. Thanks John!

Bump from the dead. So this means I should order a BZ3012 to use in the rear of a 280z when sectioning struts, so that I get the right sized gland nut, correct? The sectioning FAQ doesn't mention this, and the "shortened struts" option on Beta's website lists BZ3015's for the rear, which I would think means I'd get the incorrect smaller 240z gland nuts.

Haha thanks Dave, will do. Still need to get this POS looking good, will have to hand it over to a bodyshop for a few months like you did lol. Nice man, glad to hear you've joined the good side of Nissans Sounds like a plan, can't wait!

Been getting the new boost level tuned in slowly but surely. I find it's tough to hit that kind of boost frequently enough for logging without risking getting arrested lol. I've given up on EAE and gone back to normal TPS based accel enrichment, and so far it's working pretty well. Still getting everything dialed in, but it's feeling nice! Also pulled the trigger on a cheapo ebay B&M short shifter clone... completely changes the feel of the car, I love it! Funny how sometimes the little things make all the difference.