PanzerAce

about building a high-hp NA L-series engine? (and yes, I searched ) I ask because I'm thinking of building a sort of 'franken-engine' out of parts from various pick n pulls. Thanks for the help guys.

um...Unless I'm looking at something completely different, their feedbacks are the same. The greater number of negs on the one that is cheaper is easily explained by the greater volume of sales.....

On the other hand, it has less PE than Gasoline, so you aren't going to get the milage you would get with regular gas. (Not that it matters much the way most of us drive).

well, metal on metal might be loud, but firing a battle rifle without ear protection on HURTS.

well, I REALLY like these rims (Centerline billet Stars), so I found a shop in town that will fix it and polish it back up. oh, and mopar69, I doubt that a hammer hitting a rim is going to be louder than my Mosin-Nagan 91/30 is at the range

If I can get it cheap enough, it'll be time for a L28et swap. Man, I've had a Z less than 2 months and I might be picking up another.

I emailed a shop I trust with that picture as well. I'll see what they say. I'm sure there is a place that can do it for cheap (considering how many shops there are in the area), but I don't know where said shop is

Anyone know an easy/cheap way to fix it?

already talked to him, he said he wasn't taking any more until he finished his current projects that he was behind on, and he didn't know how much a 26 would cost until he built it, since it had been awhile.

Cause since it is also my DD (well, my ONLY car) I don't have the time to do a good job myself. Also, I need it to work the right time . Plus, I don't have an engine crane or the room to do the swap (4 college students all with cars tend to take all the space that you could park a car to jack it up then work on it).

1.5 hours from sac? Less than an hour from me down south of you in merced How much for a swap including the engine? (25 or 26). Oh, and how long would it take to get done?

I use email, saves me the time of writing down everything. I'll be honest though, when I see 36k including engine and tranny vs. 4k if I supply said engine and tranny, I think I'd take the extra time and money to drive down to SoCal to get the cheaper install

Never had to start a car that old, but this is what I would do: Drain the fuel and replace it (including the fuel in the lines) Drain the oil and replace it Flush the coolant system and refill it. Check the bearings to see if they are still good to go. Check the belts as well. Clean the distributor. Check the brake fluid, and possibly change it. I'm sure someone else will chime in, but that is all I can think of for now.

can someone post pics? I just don't want to f*ck up my Z doing it the wrong way

So the copy of the fsm that I have lost all the picture quality when it was scanned, but I need to know where the lift points/stand points are for a '73 S30 are (I'm leaking fluid from SOMEWHERE, and it would help if I could jack it). SO, yah, just pictures of where to lift from, and where to put the stands to hold it (assuming it is a different spot). Thanks.

midnight performance quoted me 36 grand for a complete install of an RB26 (including the cost of the engine).....yah.....

nice. All I really know for sure about the final engine setup is that I am keeping the TT setup, and 99% likely to run a water/methanol injection system (gotta keep it running in the 110 degree heat we get in the valley). course, big turbos goes without saying

thats what I was looking for, thanks that basically removes the last obstacle (other than money) to me doing a RB26 swap. Should be fun, especially since there is going to be little to no indication on the exterior just how fast it is

wow, irony, I'm getting quotes on a Rb26 install. Thanks for the link

might be the fuse for the fuel pump as well.

Basically, I'm thinking of getting a RB26DETT swaped into my '73 240Z. However, if at all possible, I want to modify it slowly. So does anyone here have a picture of how easy it is to get the turbos in and out once the engine is completely installed? It seems impossible to find a good head on or top down engine bay shot of a RB26 in a S30... Thanks guys.

I'm going go give a mechanic in the area that knows old Z cars a call Wednesday if I can't figure it out before then.

Unless you plan on mouting something else there, I would say ditch the battery tray. IMHO, leaving it would make the bay 'unbalanced' from a visual standpoint. Or, since you are turboing it (I think I saw that you were), maybe mount a water/methanol tank there?

grrr, so it did it again today, but I think I might have found the problem. This time, it was after a two hour, 80mph drive through the mountains, followed by idling. Is it possible that there is to much heat in the engine bay (previous owner put a insulating material on the hood), causing it to not draw properly?

Yah, because blown carb setups are common. Most people just slap on a P90 and go with EFI. As for blow through with downdraft carbs, I think the primary problem with them, and why you don't see people doing it is the issue is clearance with the hood of the Z. There really isn't alot of space above the intakes, and a downdraft will take some of that up, and a bend for the actual intake will be even more. If you want to do a draw through supertip, best of luck to you, but I need my Z to be drivable in below freezing weather as well, since it is my *only* car, and it gets cold here int he central valley of CA.