PanzerAce

If you are in NorCal, you might want to give Rebello a call. For one, they don't have 'stages' in their cams. http://rebelloracing.com/nissan1.htm (scroll all the way to the bottom for a small selection of what they have). I'm running one of their 63DE cams, and I LOVE it, but I'm also running a L30 and triple mikunis, so I can't say how it'll feel on your application.

And where can I pickup a heat shield? I'm not having much luck finding one...

Sounds like actual vapor lock in the fuel lines to me...

I'm slightly confused. Are you referring to vapor lock in the fuel lines, or the fuel in the carburetors vaporizing?

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129367 links are on the first and second pages.

Don't worry, they never do Someone awhile ago linked a fan system that you could put into a speaker box under the rear window to act like a defroster...

hey, it IS reliable. You can always rely on the clock and rear defrost to not work

whoa whoa whoa. What is this CNG you speak of?

Wow, I don't think ambient has hit 100 yet, but with an L30 in the engine bay, and a 20 year old at the controls, I'm sure it gets hot in the engine bay. I have the cooling bodies under the carbs, but I'm not quite sure yet how to integrate it into my current fuel line setup. First step is to tear out the insulation that the previous owner put on the hood... Thanks for the help

Dayum. Black would look really nice on the hood.

I think most people attach it basically right to the turbo i they can...

Kind of OT, but did you have to do any additional wiring to get those headlights to work, or was it just an issue of plugging them in an going? I need to upgrade my lights, and those seem to be a good bang for the buck.

man, I wish this thread hadn't been bumped. I don't need more ideas

It probably would be most effective if at the same time the piping was done to make it a CAI from in front of the radiator. Beyond that, something tells me not much.

I just read this entire thread. Monzter, you don't happen to have a daughter I could date, do you? And if/when you decide to start selling these, I'll be in the line

I have no idea what the history on the carbs is like. I got the car in January, and they were on it for at least the past 7 years (as far back as the previous owner had kept records). They are 44mm. I have not check the float level, but if it runs fine at speed, wouldn't that not be an issue? And were would I find the size of the idle jets? (presumably on them, but I haven't pulled the carbs apart yet).

I posted this in originally in the L6 forum, forgetting that there was a fuel specific forum. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=878024 The short version of my current question is this: Once my engine has fully warmed up (~half hour of driving), if I let it idle, after about a minute it starts missing a beat every so often. This will get worse the longer it sits, to the point that it has died on me twice. There is no noticeable problem when I'm on the throttle. Also, if it helps: if I take the engine up to speed, it seems to 'reset' the problem clock, if that makes any sense.

Ok, good to know about the coolant, since a bunch of those caps are cracking and the like. The idle problem is that when the engine has fully warmed up (ie: after a half hour drive), if I am at idle for more than about a minute, it starts to miss a beat here and there. The problem gets worse the longer the car is idling, to the point that it has actually stalled out completely on me twice. As for the idle jets/mix screws, no idea. I guess this weekend I'll get some canned air and carb cleaner and clean them up. Didn't even remember we had a fuel delivery section, I'll repost this over there. Thanks for the help. EDIT: Actually, re-reading your post and the service manual, Mikuni PHH carbs don't have chokes, and the starter system is on the top of the carb...

Finally got around to taking pictures of the undersides of my carbs so I could see them easily, and what I found....concerned me, but I don't know how worried I should be. So, onto the questions: First picture: What is the tube directly in the middle that is un-capped, and how vital is it to have capped? I'm assuming it should be, so does anyone know where to get rubber caps that will fit over it? Second picture: Since all the other carb throats have something screwed into that threaded hole, and this one doesn't, I'm wondering wtf is supposed to go there. I have the Mikuni service manual, but I can't figure out which part it is Thanks for the help, I really want to get this engine running in top condition... EDIT: I *think* the stuff that should be in the threaded opening is N3-06 and N107/173....

well, re: carbs. If you think twin carb systems are a pain, try throwing on a threesome of Mikuni PHH carbs. Six different throats that you have to adjust...

I'll be honest, while no bumper looks good, the early model bumpers like yours and the kind I have on mine I actually think look ok. They aren't the huge blocks that the later ones were.

Ah, got it. For some reason I was under the impression that you had it. My mistake....move along people, nothing to see here...

Agreed, that paint job is awesome. It's the first one that made me re-think how I want to re-paint my Z when I get the money.

So, why can't we use that Paeco-Goerz head? My understanding is that basically everything that is needed is already there but the molds...

Damn that is an awesome looking Z. But I have to agree, ditch that bumper. And where did you get the hood with the air extractors?