PanzerAce

yah, I found that thread after I posted that. That is the exact head that I was thinking of. As for designing the intakes around a different manufacture (makes sense now that you wrote it down), are the weber/solex manifolds compatible with Mikuni carbs? (I don't know NEARLY enough about this kind of stuff).

agreed. After all, we already know it works. Plus, once there are a multitude of DOHC heads out there, people will start messing around with them and figuring out changes. Though IIRC, you can't use the normal L series intake stuff on that head, which kind of sucks. I wouldn't mind a DOHC with triple Mikunis....

What we really need to find is someone that can do it that can afford to spread the initial cost over on units not yet actually sold.

As a point of interest, once all the molds and everything are made, how much would it cost to get a finished block, including any machine work? (Just in parts/labor, not including money to recoup the cost of getting it all setup)

Well, I don't know jack s**t about making engine blocks, but is there any reason you couldn't make both an L28 and LD28? It seems to me that while there would be some people that want the LD28 block, more people would want to go with something that is dimensionally the same as what they already have, so that they don't have to think as much when they start using it.

If it came down to a DOHC head or an aluminum block, I would pick the DOHC. While less engine weight is always a good thing, better airflow beats that out in my book. Especially if it was made suitable for both turbo and NA applications. IIRC, didn't someone take a couple of KA24 head, chop them up, and then bolt them all together? If we could get something like that as a single unit, that would be awesome. Especially if the intake side could take all the normal L series stuff (Webers, Mikunis, etc).

Well, with 4 PnPs within an hour of me, I can probably track down a bunch of blocks, if there is someone that can use them for this.

from his post, we probably are looking at atleast a year, probably more.

What kind of cost would we be looking at for a L28 block? And I don't think I'll be able to make the drive across the country to help pour :/

nothing is a pipe dream given enough money. If enough people were fim for buying them, we could probably get some place to make them. Of course, the issue is getting people to drop money on something that not only isn't in stock, but not even had the mold/whatever for it made yet.

I was going to say something looked wrong to me, but then I saw you didn't go past 5000. Looks like you have a little bit of tuning to do around 3,500 though. Other than that, looks pretty damn good. I bet you either are or could put down 300whp easily in the higher RPMs.

why not go with the lower compression and turbo it?

Well, it does say it was the first run of the engine, so that number probably climbed upwards. But dang, I want to see someone make an aluminum L engine now.... Actually, if we can get someone in the states to make an aluminum L series block, I would most likely be down for one

http://www.vildinimotorsport.com/ start by talking to them.

I wouldn't have minded driving, if a good 3/4 of the strands hadn't snapped already. Thanks for the info though, I'll keep those places in mind.

thats the reason why in Cali especially there is a premium on the pre '75 S30s. (and why I got my greedy hands on a '73)

Fixed it using a Avenir Universal Brake cable instead that I cut down with wire cutters. Part number 33-07-410 FYI. Now I just need to take her out to a dyno to see how much that inability to go WOT was costing me.

Never mind. Turns out the spare e-brake cable I had did the trick. If anyone else needs to know, it is an Avenir Universal Brake Cable, Part number 33-07-410 (though -411 *should* work as well). It comes as 78" long though, so you are going to have to cut it down.

IIRC, there is a picture of a red 280zx at the track with its front end several feet in the air. I don't recall exactly, but I'm *pretty* sure that the text in the picture says that it was running stock internals on the engine...

Wow, there are a bunch of us in the central valley it looks like. I might have to stop by as well some time twistex.

Mine has decided to start fraying, so I need a replacement, but none of the auto shops in the area carry cables for ANY cars Anyone know a place online I could pickup a new one? (Its a triple mikuni setup, if that matters)

grrr...except the throttle cable needs to be replaced first. About 2/3 of the strands are broken, and the auto parts stores don't have it.

Yah, I've got enough travel that I'm just going to go ahead and move which hole the cable is bolted to.

Stupid question, but I'm going to ask it anyways. When I push the pedal all the way in, I shouldn't be able to push the throttle levers any further, correct? Oh, and what do you guys like to use for carb cleaner that you put in the gas tank?

dunno the process for EFI to carbs in general, but for turboing a carb, there are two ways to do it: blow through and draw through. Blow through places the turbo before the carbs, drawthrough places it afterwords.