PanzerAce

yah. the Z isn't actually all that bad, small interior means that body heat and the engine through the firewall heats it up decently fast. The biggest problem with the weather is getting the engine to warm up to the point that the engine can actually idle, though the weather has changed enough that it isn't as much of a problem right now.

nice.

Just got back from a warm up/re-create the problem drive. She acted like nothing had ever happened, and idled just fine. No spitting, no overly rich mixture smell, none of that stuff. I think I was being told not to think of engine swaps till the current engine was good and dead

people that build draw through carb setups really need to read 'Maximum Boost'. And then switch over to a blow through.

Yah....I'm going to be DDing my Z in everything from 120 ambient air temp down to (hopefully not) as low as say....10 degrees. Going to be interesting.

not really, oh well. You ever been up to Red Bluff? where Hwy-36 and I-5 cross? I've heard that -36W from there is about 140 miles or so of awesome driving.

lol, we both must be bored if we are responding at the same time. Where in napa you located? we might have to drive together some time

doh, just realized you meant (I think) just pull the wire off the plug, not the plug out of the head, correct?

cool, thanks. I was hoping there was a visual way to do it, but I guess not. Ah well, something to spend tomorrow doing. Don't suppose you know how far down they are suppose to be torqued down when putting them back?

So my 3.0 just started idling rough, and it is acting like it is running overly rich (exhaust smell, spitting (if that is the correct term), when I upshift, etc). Is there an easy way to tell which cylinder is running incorrectly? (It's triple mikunis, so it should be only one or two cylinders, correct?). Thanks for the help guys...

ah...the things we put up with to drive a Z

you mean the little knob facing downwards to the upper right of the foot well vent control?

wait, dimmer switch? I didn't even know that Zs had one.... when you turn the lights on, are any of those wires getting current?

I actually kinda need it though. Sure, rolling the window down defrosts it pretty well, but while the engine is warming up so that it can idle, it would be nice to get it going. Also, rain + open window = not so good.

whups, I meant what volt meter to get As for the actual defrosting element, can't you just take a look at it and see if it is getting defrosted? Or has it never gotten cold enough where you are to actually frost up?

just realized I don't have a volt meter, any recomendations?

Title basically says it all. Last night I noticed that my rear defroster doesn't work at all. Switch doesn't light up or anything either (should it?). So what is the easiest/cheapest way to tell what part of the setup is busted? Considering the amount of driving I do in this weather (humid, rain, cold, etc), I kind of need it to work...

so I might be going in a different direction with my engine modifications, but thanks again for all the help guys

sounds pretty interesting actually, I'll have to remember that if I ever get a project L24 engine. Probably good for the times, but I wouldn't be surprised if my current NA engine puts down more power than it could pull.

my local libraries don't have it it looks like. Eh, I'll be needing it in the future anyway, so I might as well buy it

any chance you could scan that section? Or let me know what the ISBN number is? Thanks.

I get a happy feeling every time I bury the throttle on my Rebello 3.0L, I can't wait till I have the chance to do it with an extra .2 liters.

Dang, a 3.3? I know they sell 3.2 without the cylinder head, but I didn't know about any 3.3. I'm pretty sure it is a large bore with a L28 crank. I have to call Rebello tomorrow anyway about some stuff, I'll see if I can find out about this 3.3 you are talking about.

sorry, should have been more clear: I DON'T have a P90 head (AFAIK). Point 1 was more like: 240Zs aren't that common in the central valley of CA anyway, but I also don't want it to be like other people's that just put P90 heads on when they want a turbo kit. Actually, thats one more thing I should check out when I fix the throttle cable is what head I actually have

Well, the appeal (to me), is: 1) Being different. Sure, its not like you see 3Ls with P90 heads and turbos very often, let alone 240s at all in the central valley that are actually on the road, but it is different from the norm. 2) Different kind of labor that has to be done: Instead of having to pull the entire head assembly, AND do all the piping, so far it seems like this setup would mostly just need the piping redone. 3) My current setup was built by rebello, and probably is worth more than I paid for the car when you include labor, so if at all possible I would like to keep it the way it is (mostly). Sure, there are some things that will make it more difficult to do than a straight head swap etc, but there are other things that matter to me (like keeping computers as far away from my engine as possible). *shrugs*, thats just me.