cjames

Thanks everyone! I think we found what we needed.

Email sent.

Juan240z, the injectors we spoke about previously are the turbo injectors that you had posted. Those wont work for this project. As for MY turbo project, I went with something else, stock turbo ones arent going to work for me. I was more interested what the other ones you had were, before you sold that set.

I'm posting for a friend who needs a good working set of injectors for his '79 ZX. He has a mismatched set that are barely working. We're open for options, as long as they flow close to stock (totally stock engine). Let me know if anyone has something kicking around that they aren't using, maybe a complete rail with fpr? Thanks!

I've seen literally hundreds of turbine housings cracked around the wastegate. In fact, when we had one come through the shop that WASN'T cracked, it was rare. In the cases that I would see the same engine a few years later for another overhaul, I never observed the cracks getting much worse until years later. Eventually the gasses will erode the metal around the crack, but that will take years and years, and 4 or 5 rebuilds later, and everything else will be worn out 3 times by then. This observation is based on my experience with marine and industrial diesel engines, and the housings in question were typically run red hot, 24/7, at full load for around 10,000 hours only shutting down every few days for an oil change. Then overhauled whether they needed it or not. I wouldn't worry too much about it, I don't believe it would effect boost whatsoever, unless it was big enough to stick a pencil through.

+1 on tig with argon purge, save the mig for body work.

I'm very happy with my Sig 239, DA/SA. Its a bit smaller frame, and a single stack mag. Very nice for concealed carry. I bought it in .40SW and have shot thousands of rounds through it at the range with absolutely no problems whatsoever. I also have the .357SIG barrel and magazine. I've only fired a few hundred rounds of the .357 through it, and let me tell you, its a very impressive round. Accuracy is spot on with either, although I'm a little more consistent with the .40, probably because I'm more used to it. The .357SIG is a handful, hits fast and hard, but quite expensive. I cant say enough good things about the Sig. I'm a customer for life.

I've had good luck dealing with the members here. 2 or 3 transactions I think, thanks guys!

Mine used to get stuck on the rug... Surprisingly, it took me a while to find it, I was checking linkage, rod ends, everything but the d@mn carpet.

Are you saying that the only fuel you can buy in your area is ethanol blend??

Seat of the pants tells me that my motorcycle doesn't like it one bit. I get the same feeling of the computer pulling some timing out of it. I try and avoid the ethanol blend, but occasionally it's not a choice.

1/4-16 is Acme I think, no good.

I know McMaster-Carr has left hand threaded rod. http://www.mcmaster.com

Another theory (mine) may be that by having the insulating blanket around the turbine housing, you are avoiding some damage that could occur from rapid heating/cooling cycles by keeping the turbo at a more constant temperature. Just my $.02... On diesels at least (the majority of my experience) the water cooled turbine housings were most often reserved for high horsepower applications, due to the higher exhaust temperatures damaging the dry housings. In my opinion, theres no downside to having an insulating blanket on the turbine housing and even the down pipe.

Havent checked the ring gap yet, still need to soap and water wash things, put a little paint on the block, and clean the shop before before I lay the crank and stuff pistons. I'll post details on how close all the specs were in a different thread after I have all the data from the build logged. I will mention that the first set of ITM pistons had a 13 gram descrepancy though.... I got 6 more, and we made a set that was within a gram or so before balancing.

Paul, I've seen that tool around before, and forgot all about it. I believe SnapOn sells a Bluepoint version of it (probably over priced). I know youve built a few engines in your time, so if you give it a good review, I'm sold. Thanks!

Yeah, I suppose I could get one of those el cheapo adjustable band style, but I kinda have a thing for "nice" tools. I was hoping there was another option that I've overlooked.

Finally got my rotating assembly back from the balancer, and I'm ready to assemble the bottom (still waiting on the head, and I havent rebuilt the turbo yet). Looking around the shop I found that I dont have a ring compressor that fits, everything I have is way too large (Cat and Cummins stuff) What do you guys like for a ring compressor tool? I looked on Summit, and didnt find anything that looked like it would fit the 86mm properly.

I'm using ITM pistons, I doubt the quality control, and I debated myself for weeks before I even bought them in the first place, but I havent heard many bad reviews. I weighed my rods, they were close, but the "hung" weight of the small ends varied quite a bit. Could have been the way I hung em too when I weighed em, very un-scientific. I'll post results when I get the final word from my machinist.

A manometer hooked up somewhere, maybe try and adapt something at the oil fill on the rocker cover, and try and test it under load. Turbocharged engines inherently run higher crankcase pressures than NA engines, and theres not a great way to get the gasses out. Pulling PCV into the inlet of the turbocharger works, isnt a great idea unless you have a good system to drop out the oil first. An exhaust venturi works quite well, and can pull a pretty good vacuum. so be sure to have plenty of ventilation. A few inches of vacuum in the crankcase isnt bad, better than positive pressure. In a word, yes. But its not always that easy. I'd say it "could" inhibit flow in the drain back of the turbo. You dont want any pressure in the center section, you want to supply only as much oil as will drain back freely. Its pretty much an oil bath, constantly flowing across the bearings, cooling and lubricating then flowing out. How do you have your PCV hooked up? Are you sure that its working? If you have a breeze coming out of the oil fill at idle, I'd say theres too much crankcase pressure. This COULD cause a problem with turbo drainback, thus a hotside oil leak.

The hot side oil seal on the turbine shaft is simply a piston ring seal, 2 of them typically. From my experience, they will leak SOME oil upon start up. In order for them to really seal up, a carbon dam is formed around these rings, behind the turbine wheel. If oil is getting backed up in the center section, it will leak, most of the time it will leak into the compressor side, since there is a low pressure area behind the comp wheel. I dont know exactly where your oil is coming from, but unless that turbo has been run for a while at operating temperatures, the carbon dam may not have formed yet. I'd probably run it under load for a while, and see if it seals up, if indeed it is a leaky turbo... Just my $.02 I just re-read, check that you dont have positive pressure in the crank case. if you are running positive pressure in the base, you could have pressure in the center section of the turbo inhibiting drainback, contributing to the leak.

How many of you L-series engine builders have the rotating assembly balanced for a build? Its something I do with out even thinking about it when I build any engine. This is my first L-series though. I FINALLY got all my parts together for my L28ET build, and the entire rotating assembly is with my machinist now for balancing. I'm curious to see how much work it will take for him to balance this stuff up compared to other engines I've built. I did a quick search, and found a few posts, but not many regarding L-series balancing. I'd love to hear thoughts on this from some of you other engine builders here.