mr jdm

That was exactly something I was looking for. Thanks a lot.

Someone will explain it better. He can still adjust his ride height without preload adjustment, just instead of spinning the sleeve with the ears, you have to spin the whole hub to the desired height, then you bolt up the coilover. Theres a pic to explain what he did, (arizona z car pic)

Kris, the bottom part of those coilovers, that bolt to the hub, and the subframe. They are threaded. What I think he did was just unscrew them off, then he installed them like you would diy ground control coilovers.

I think I am going to end up running the entire system using this line. http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?shop=Hose&dept=Speed-Flex

This is only to repace the rubber, its 16" long. I want to replace the ENTIRE system. no hardline. Eh, this is going to be one of those things I want to try and make my own judgement based on experience

Any suggestions on where to get -3 hose ends for a decent price besides anplumbing.com

here is a diagram of the ignition circuit Here are the instructions from my tach adapter http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/atm-561.pdf According to everything, would it be ok for the output of the ignition relay be connected to the INput on the tach adapter. Then the output of the adapter goes to the input of the ignition/coil harness?

Just like title says, about to grab a front setup. I need a rear 240sx caliper kit. If you dont have a "kit" and just have the caliper adapters, I would take them also. Let me know, thanks.

Hey I was wondering if you could measure the 240sx throttle cable. Its total length from the firewall on. Only wondering because I dont want to get to long of a cable

Sorry, post might not be clear. I either want the whole entire setup. OR just the front spacers and rear brackets.

I was reading around a bit and I think a member was running this setup, but I forgot who. I just wanted to see if this would be a safe setup. I want to get rid of the stock proportioning valve for the brakes. Here is a diagram that I drew up real quick. Btw, plans for the brake setup is front brakes will be 4x4 vented, and rear brakes will be 240sx calipers and 15/16 master

Just like title says, I need to upgrade front and rear brakes. The front to the vented setup, if you have the spacers only for sale, I will buy those and for the rears I will buy only the brackets to be able to bolt up a 240sx caliper, or I can buy a whole setup from you. Just pm me what ya got. Thanks.

Hey I was workin on my project the other day. I took a decent look and the alternator isnt even going to be close to clearing the steering shaft. The motor sits low with the mckinney member. I think I am going to mount the alternator on the other side using a FWD sr20 alternator. Let me know what you do for making a bracket I dont really have any good ideas at the moment.

If your going to spend the kind of money to make 500-800 whp. Why are you thinking about going with the weakest option as far as a motor goes. 700whp. Your looking at a gt42r = 2g turbo, and a exhaust manifold that will cost 2g. 4 grand for only two components, if you that kind of money. Definetly go with a rb26, or no less than a rb25.

Hey it turns out you can have them make a custom main hoop. I forgot who it was but somebody on here posted dimensions on a very tight main hoop. Here is there order form. http://www.brokedickracing.com/Instructions/BDRCustomrollbar.pdf I wish I know about these guys, I bought my cage from Jegs, havent installed it yet but shipping was 120 dollars, I could of went and picked it up from them.

haha that slipped my mind. Thanks for the advice. I guess the very low square tubing I can move up in between the tubing with es bushings.

Hey I made a trans crossmember for my Z. I'm putting an sr20 in it and since there is lmited space between the clutch master and intake manifold I couldnt mount the motor as far back as possible unless I had floor mount pedals. I couldnt use the mckinney trans member, so I made one. It used the an Avid racing solid mount between the trans and member. What I did was just go down and across using square tubing, Then I drilled holes in the tubing that was perpendicular to the ground. I welded a 1/2 thick rod to one side THen I used 1.5" angle and drilled holes for the mount and holes for the 1/2 rod to slide in. While I was under the car I could slide it on the rod, when it got to the sweet spot I just tacked up and welded it up. What do you think of this?

Hey I was wondering, the 2+2 is just longer n the bottom, has anybody tried putting a coupe dogleg on a 2+2 z? Let me know thanks.

I had my hopes up. Thanks for keeping me posted though. Still need one

Challenger I should have bought both of yours for sure. Thanks for the good word. Richard, email sent.

Just like title says, must be in good condition, paypal ready, thanks.

No it sits slanted, but I dont have a trans crossmember made yet, just a jack under the trans. No matter how I positioned it in the motor mounts it sits slanted.

Hey whats up, I have a sr20det mounted in my bay using mckinney crossmember. I have to make my own crossmember, I cant use theres. Making one isnt a problem. I dont know how high or low the trans should sit. I currently have this short shifter. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2654/3702290862_cefc494b4b.jpg Now, with the shifter in and trans where I think it should be, the green piece is about 1/4-1/2" below the top of the tunnel. Is this right or should I mount my trans lower?

Il take the trans crossmember, maybe we can meet somewhere?