mtcookson

Definitely. I'm hoping to start on it pretty soon. Just have to order some piping and such. I should have it done within a couple weeks if everything goes as planned. I'll definitely have some pictures by then.

We never got them in the states. The heads on them actually have huge ports compared to the DETT and supposedly the stock rods are somewhat stronger, although oddly enough the overall power output isn't as high, stock, as the DETT.

Supposedly the newer XS Power/SS Autochrome turbos are now single cast pieces and are a bit better... but I would just go for the real deal in the case of a GT turbo. Places like http://www.phoenixturbo.com have pretty good deals. There's another person on ebay that has pretty good feedback with good prices as well on the real stuff. http://www.himni-racing.com/ Himni's prices are slightly more than Phoenix's however they have a lot of turbine housing options, which is definitely a plus.

There are quite a few different setups really. You can have the fake setup which is just an auto tranny and using the the paddles to shift it instead of the gear lever. This would be similar to most "semi-auto" transmission these days with the +/- shifting. The next setup would be like the Toyota MR2 Spyder with the 6-speed. They actually use a real 6-speed manual transmission with the standard clutch, pressure plate, and everything however... its all computer controlled. You can use either the +/- on the shifter or the buttons on the steering wheel. I've read that this setup actually rivals some of Ferrari's own street car setups. The only downside to Toyota's setup is it shifts kind of slow and no one has been able to crank the control box's code yet to speed shifts up. Another, and probably most impressive setup I've seen, utilizes two clutches. You have one clutch on the odd gears (1, 3, 5, etc.) and another on the even (2, 4, 6). When you're in first gear and moving the "odd" clutch is releases to allow you to move in first while the "even" clutch and 2nd gear are both engaged. The instant to press the paddle or button, the "odd" clutch engages and the "even" clutch release simultaneously giving an instantaneous shift. This setup is seen on the Bugatti Veyron 16/4, Chrysler ME412, and I'm sure a few others. Bugatti and Chrysler both boasted complete shifts within 200 milliseconds. I'm sure there are many other designs, but those are the ones I know for sure off-hand.

I hope you aren't talking about the stock VG30E making 300 hp normally aspirated. If you can make a VG30E make 300 hp normally aspirated stock with a cam... you would most certainly have to be God himself. You would first need pistons. Custom pistons since no one makes any for the VG30E in high compression. Minimum $600 from BRC Performance. JWT's biggest possible cam - $560 Upgraded valve springs (for the higher rpm that you'll need) - $129 Port and polish Valves Maybe even lighter rods Modified intake and exhaust Etc. etc. etc. Going by the price of the pistons, cams, and springs alone I could have already had a turbo setup making at the very least 250 whp and probably over 300 ft. lb. of torque. You're probably barely pushing 250 bhp with the N/A mods I listed. It would take a lot of money to get a VG30E to 300 hp normally aspirated. The same money put into a turbo setup would yield more power throughout the entire rev range and you wouldn't have to drive it like an S2000 to make decent power.

Once I get into it, I'm going to mess around with the Romulator setup. I actually met the guy who makes them so that he could try figuring out the real time trace portion of it. He gave one to me for free for doing that so I'm going to tune it with that.... once I get the time. At the moment... its not running. I took the front end apart to put the aftercooler in and ultimately decided to go with a different setup (after cutting everything up naturally ) I have some cool new ideas for a setup on it that hopefully will benefit the Maxima community. Keeping it all quiet for the moment though. I finally got some things in today to start working on it again so hopefully there will be a lot of new stuff to come very soon.

Actually... that's the bad part. I have clicked on the links numerous times and somehow missed those things everytime. Even worse yet... they're the biggest link on the opening page. :lol: I think its time for me to get my eyes check again.

You can get an N/A to 300 hp with a ....load of money. Like say... for instance... the Hekimian racing VG30E. 300 hp @ 7,000 rpm and 240 ft. lb. of torque @ 5,500 for $10,500 (the price went up over 2 grand in about a year). For that price I could make a turbo engine push 600+ whp easy... probably even more than that and with a lot of low end torque for friendly street driving. The VG30E is not easy to make a lot of power with going normally aspirated. The reason that stock 5 liter push rod motor was making that kind of power stock was because of it displacement. When it comes to an engine being normally aspirated the saying "there's no replacement for displacement" is so very true. 300 hp out of a 5 liter push rod engine is kind of weak though. My Nissan 4.5 liter V8 makes about 305 hp stock. Anyways... "abnormal hp numbers" when non-N/A?? Horsepower is simply a function of torque and rpm. (Torque x RPM) / 5252. When going with forced induction you get much more low end torque. What exactly do you mean by "abnormal hp numbers"??

There you go, that should definitely work... however, you may need more than 5 psi to reach your power goals. You might get what you're aiming at, at redline but this won't help you much. Since the boost of a centrifugal s/c is linear, you need a higher peak boost to have more boost in the mid range. At only 5 psi, you'd probably only see roughly 1 psi at the engine's peak torque which would hardly be any fun. I know a guy with a turbo Maxima (VG30E) running a Toyota CT26 turbo that is making over 300 ft. lb. of torque at 2,800 rpm but just over 250 hp (if memory serves). You should also look into turbocharging your car using stock Z31 Turbo components. I bet you could easily stay under $1,000 and have better overall performance. I did something similar using Z31 Turbo parts on my Maxima and got it running on $1,500. That included quite a bit of custom work as well. Yours wouldn't need any. On a poor tune, leaky exhaust, and very restrictive intake I made about 210 whp and I think 230 wtq with an 85 Z31 T3. I'd get the turbo crossmember and various neede swap parts, put a 3 inch exhaust on it, and good flowing intake, run it at about 7 psi or so and call it a day. You'll have much more low end torque, which would make it a much more pleasant car to drive on the street. Like I mentioned above, on a very bad tune with leaky exhaust and a poor intake I still manage a hair under 30 mpg. I know with fixes to those problems I'll easily surpass 30 mpg and make much more power to boot. I can gauranty that you would be overall more pleased with the turbo setup than you would with the s/c setup and you wouldn't be spending any more money doing it. It might take a bit more work to pull off... but the results would be well worth the effort. Here's an excellent site for the N/A to Turbo swap. http://www.redz31.com/pages/turbo.html If you absolutely want to go with the s/c... I think you're definitely on the right track so far but like I mentioned above, you might have to run some more boost than you planned on for the power you want mostly because of the peaky nature of the centrifugal s/c.

Maxima's suck You know I'm kidding

Yes, I know. I just stated that it doesn't matter at what pressure you're running you need the recirculation valve so that it doesn't give boost at idle. A centrifigal likely won't need one. It should be spinning slow enough at idle that it won't create any boost. That's why centrifugal superchargers actually have a sort of lag like a turbo does... even though they are belt driven.

The roots superchargers have a recirculation valve so that there is no boost while idling.

Man... what the hell. I've never seen those before. That's exactly what I need. Thanks for the info 2+2!

VG is an even fire. An odd fire engine essentially fires at "alternating" crank angles.

eh?? link???

Lets say the engine redlines at 7,000 rpm and you need the compressor to spin at 70,000 rpm. Without any other internal gearing, you would need a 10:1 pulley ratio... which is a 10 inch drive pulley and a 1 inch driven pulley. Cut that in half and you'll have a 5 inch drive pulley with a .5 inch driven pulley. The former setup requires a pulley that is way too big, the latter setup requires a pulley that is way too small. If I'm looking at the right maps, it'll take more RPM than that to reach 8 psi. Even if the max was 70k rpm, that's still much higher than you want it to spin. If you absolutely want a centrifugal supercharger, I'd just get a centrifugla supercharger. Most decent sized belts aren't going to accept a .5 to 1 inch pulley very well. Plus... the driven pulley and shaft would need to be perfectly balanced because all of that will be spinning at 70k rpm (if that were the limit). I think its actually closer to about 80,000 rpm, which only makes things harder. Unless you can do some sort of gear box on the turbo compressor, then do the pulleys... I think you're going to be looking at more work than you'll want to do and potentially more money than you'd spend on a real centrigual supercharger. That's how I see it.

From what I can tell... yes. The bore, stroke, and compression ratio all appear to be the same from what I've found so that leaves either changing the timing of the cams or the lift.

When you say clip, I kind of see a design in my head that makes sense. That would be a pretty cool design to try out.

Ahh, ok. I wasn't sure if you sent it yet or not. I emailed him as well earlier today.

So did you just send him roughly £156.05 to make it all match up?

I think that's going to be the same for me. My bank wants 40 dollars and wants a ton of info from John like SSN and such. I'm betting that PayPal will be cheaper and less of a hassle for the both of us. Clifton, do you know how much it is through PayPal for John?

Ahhh, ok. So you're setting this up for a Dodge truck itself. Garrett does make turbos specifically for the 5.9 Cummins. I believe the actual turbo they use is a GT37R, which is actually kind of hard to find on ebay. I would actually love to have one of those for a gasoline application as they have a huge compressor map much like the Holset turbos do. I see no reason why the GT40 wouldn't work, however you need to be sure to get the exhaust just right. You'd basically want to try matching the HX40 exhaust housing to the Garrett housing so that you have correct spooling times.

What type of wastegate are you using?

Me, moreso, a webgeek with nothing better to do than to read about cars all day long. I think I have a pretty good understanding of how it all works, however, I love these types of debates because I can always learn even more from other people's ideas and such like above.

Power output wise... it would probably be the same as the Garrett GT40R. The compressor map is likely quite different and I'm not sure how the turbine would match up but airflow wise, they should max out at the same.