mtcookson

They've been using them in the Skylines as well and are doing incredibly well compared to the RB. The weight and near "mid-engine" placement makes for a very well handling car and its power output can be equally matched. Not only on the course but its done an incredible job at the drag strip too... http://www.theexperience.com/recordrun.htm For a while I figured the thing was going to be a performance junker as people were blowing them pretty often it seemed... but now, they're proving to be simply amazing.

Thank you very much Mike!! That definitely helps out. Now to start some number crunching... oh joy!

Those trannies are definitely much stronger than the 240SX tranny. They are very similar to the ones used in the 90-96 300ZX's. The 240SX might handle that much power for the KA guys from what I've seen but the VG is going to make quite a bit more torque and will be much more likely to break it. I picked up a Z32 TT tranny in good condition for $250. I picked it up myself so I saved on shipping costs but I would base the price on that. I found it on http://www.car-part.com. Might be able to find a similar deal for one of those or the 87-89 300ZX Turbo tranny.

Awesome. Thanks for your help! I have some basic info on those axles that I actually found while on Napa's website. I know the 90-96 Q45 and 90-96 300ZX Twin Turbo axles are 32 spline. The threads on the end are 24 x 1.5. Compressed length of the Q45 axles: Left - 24" Right - 26 3/8" Z32 TT axles: Left - 24 1/2" Right - 26 1/2" If I can get the axles out tonight I'll double check those measurements. I had to pick up a 36 mm socket last night as I didn't have one so I'm finally ready to get those things out of there.

VG30DETT and likely now the VQ35DE as well. I wouldn't say they were the absolute best but I would definitely prefer those two over at the least the RB26. I'm not sure about the 2JZ, but I dislike the really high rev power output of the RB26. The VG would be much more streetable with its higher low and mid-range torque.

The 89-91 SE and 89-94 GXE Maxima ECU's can be hooked up to a Zemulator and modified from what I'm told. Another option is the romulator for the chipped ecu's. Just as fyi, its a pretty common misconception that turbo setups produce no low end power. I know a guy with a turbo Maxima (VG30E) making nearly 350 ft. lb. of torque to the wheels at 2800 rpm and around 250 whp on a very bad tune (extremely rich). That was before some good head work and with a somewhat inefficient turbo (toyota ct26). with something slightly larger with a ball bearing setup it would spool just as quick and give even more low end power and best yet, hold that power till redline. roots superchargers tend to not hold power all the way to redline like a centrifugal setup can but most importantly... that M62 supercharger on the VG33 are way too small. If you absolutely want to go with a supercharger route I'd get a M90 at the very minimum. The best supercharger setup would be a screws supercharger as they are much more efficient than a roots yet still have the instant response. The only downside is they are quite expensive since they aren't as abundant as the M90's found on the Grand Prix GTP and such due to not being used in factory applications as often like the roots. Just some ideas.

That's interesting. I'll have to add that to my list of VG info.

Sorry about that. I think I spaced out on that post and didn't clarify myself too well. One measurement I'm trying to find is the rear stud spacing difference between the R200 and R230. The spacing from center to center on the Q45 R200V is 4.75 inches. During the whole Q45 R200/R230 debacle I was under the assumption that the R230 (TTZ) had the same 4.75 spacing on the rear cover as well. This doesn't seem to be the case now so I'm trying to find the spacing of those two studs on the TTZ's R230. The next measurement I was looking for is the spacing for the front bolt holes on the differential. I'm pretty sure the subframe of the Q45 and Z32 N/A is identical and depending on that spacing might be the same as the Z32 TT subframe. Third is the input shaft flange of the TTZ differential (the 6 bolt flange that the driveshaft bolts to). I believe the Q45 input flange is slightly larger than the TTZ R230 input flange but the Q uses a 4 bolt flange. Either way, I'm just basically trying to get the measurement so that I can make an adapter that would hopefully allow the Z32 TT driveshaft to bolt to the Q45 differential. Going off of a fellow member's pictures I would need these dimension: What kind of axle info are you looking for? I have the stock 90 Q45 axles and I also have the stock 90 300ZX N/A axles.

To my knowledge all US VG30E(T)'s had the same cams. Compression of the VG30E's are 9:1, compression of the 84 to early 87 non-"W" VG30ET's were 7.8:1, and compression of the later 87 to 89 VG30ET's were 8.3:1.

Any of you guys have an R230 diff from a 90-96 TTZ laying around? I'm trying to find some measurements of it. Diameter of input shaft flange Bolt spacing of the rear studs (mounting studs) Spacing of the front mount bolt holes I've tried the Z32 boards but it seems they don't have quite the tech knowledge that everyone does here. I'm trying to compare these to the R200V Q45 differential from 90 to I believe 96. I have a 90 unit and it has the same 6 bolt output flanges as the R230 (as everyone knows) but I was always under the assumption that the rear two studs had the same spacing on both diffs but that doesn't look to be the case. The Q45 diff has a 4.75 inch spacing between the two rear studs, which is the same as the 90-96 300ZX N/A diff, which seems natural as both are R200's. The N/A diff has a 4.08 ratio but with 5 bolt output flanges and a 29 spline cv compared to the 32 spline of the TTZ and Q45. I picked up a 90 300ZX N/A and am wanting to put the Q45 diff in there as it should be strong enough for what I want but also give me a lower ratio than the TTZ, which should get me some better times in the 1/4 and possibly better gas mileage... plus a gear limited top speed of 200+ mph

Cool. Not a problem.

3.69 R230 (had to add that to not start any confusion on the R200/R230 stuff )

The 350Z 6-speed, from what I hear, isn't all that strong. Any particular reason you want a 6-speed? If you absolutely want one you could go with a T56 with a custom bellhousing. Might check the gear ratios though to make sure it matches the RB26. You might have to go with a Cobra T56 as it has a .62 or so 6th gear compared to the GM T56, which uses a .50 6th gear. Depending on your rear end, that .50 top gear could make the rpm too low for the RB to be able to cruise efficiently. Most importantly, you need to make sure the gear changes are within the RB's power band. If the rpm drop is too much it'll be slower than having a good 5-speed that matches the RB. The T56 should work pretty good... but double check to be sure. Here's a good page for calculating all of that: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission_300zx_tt.html

I didn't notice your thread somehow. Sorry for not helping out. Its possible that the turbo just seized from the oil cooking in the housing and building up junk in there. The 86-87 "T3" turbos were watercooled so that usually helps out, but there's a good chance its just at that age. At the same time it is also possible that the feed or return got clogged so definitely be sure to check both of those before putting another turbo on so that the new one doesn't die the same way. I'm sure they make an external oiling kit for turbo setups but it shouldn't be necessary. For an extreme performance application, it may not be a bad idea though to keep the turbo cooler and the engine's oil cooler as well. As for the turbo are you looking for some performance upgrades? If so, you'll need to be sure to upgrade everything else accordingly. Fuel, aftercooler, etc. will be necessary once you start turning up the boost. As for some t3/t4 turbos I'd probably look around on ebay for some Garrett or similar turbos. Definitely stay away from those XS engineering or SS autochrome or whatever turbos. I've heard of some bad stories of those.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html bottom of the page might be what you're looking for.

Yup, that'd be one of them. Harness wise I think one of the main differences were that the turbo models got a knock sensor. I wouldn't be surprised if the MAF was the same, but I'm not positive on the Z31. So at the very least the turbo ecu/harness will have one extra wire but there's a chance there could be a few more. I'm not too familiar with the earlier VG wiring.

I think some of the Japanese regulars like HKS and Greddy used to way back when but definitely won't make them anymore. If you can find one, they're very expensive due to being so rare. From what I've read at Z31.com the stock turbo manifolds are proven to handle 400 whp or so. Some port would likely increase that. Your best bet would be to make your own or have someone make some for you.

grade 8.8 metric should be the most common out there. grade 10.9 is a bit harder to find but is quite a bit stronger. i'd actually search around your area in the yellowbook under fasteners. that's the best way to find nut/bolt specific companies. they're always listed under fasteners.

i'd just try a local infiniti dealer if you want the oem bolts. otherwise you should be able to find some metric bolts at any hardware store that would work. i'd be sure to use grade 10.9 at a minimum.

I love diesel engines. I wouldn't mind at all putting one in a sports car. Have you seen the new Audi diesel race car that one the 12 hours of Sebring? Its pretty awesome. As for the weight, I'm not finding info on it so far. It must be too new for people to have weight specs for it or at least any posted online.

Yeah, I bet if its coming from the input shaft its likely the input shaft seal... if you own an 89-94 Maxima you'll become very accustomed to replacing input shaft seals and bearings. If it is, depending on the design of the tranny you'll likely need to pull the whole tranny apart to replace it. Hopefully that's not the case and its just motor oil leaking from the rear main seal again. Good luck with it!

ahh, ok. when internet explorer opens a picture larger than the window it shrinks it down. to make it larger again, put your cursor over the picture (don't click). two boxes will come up, one in the top left corner and the other in the bottom right corner. click the one on the bottom right corner and the picture will go back to its normal size. another option is to right click on the picture and click save picture as, save it to your computer, then open it. from there you can zoom in and such. good luck!

here's some info http://www.redz31.com/pages/fuel.html

it would also likely run extremely rich as you would be releasing metered air. you would have to move the maf after the pov... but would still be pointless due to the reasons listed above. the turbo would likely spool much quicker, but you would see boost spikes and its likely that the pop off valve may not flow enough to limit boost where you want it. it'd be best to just stick with the tried and true method of using a wastegate.

A guy did something similar on a turbo 240SX by putting the maf sensor into a larger pipe. Doing that tuned the car better than a JWT ecu tune. I bet doing that and adding an Apex'i S-AFC II or similar would give a pretty decent tune. I'd highly recommend getting a wideband o2 sensor setup when doing any tuning like that though. Knowing right away what afr you're running will save you time and time again.