mtcookson

The VG30DETT isn't really that much cheaper than a RB26DETT. Its is the better engine for all out torque and power in my opinion, but it would definitely be expensive. It really just depends on what you want though. The VG30ET in the Z31 turbo are pretty strong engines and can make more than enough power for daily driving and even some track days. What exactly are you wanting to use the car for?

Lambo makes large tractors as well... not sure they'd put a V12 in it though.

you're thinking too small... http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl/

there might be some electronic gizmos that need changed over. i know the maxima used a different idle air control valve between the auto and manual models due to them having different air requires to idle.

Supposedly the stock VG30ET manifolds have been proven to flow well enough for up to 400 whp. Some porting and such could probably increase it enough for your goal.

ahhhh... the VG30DET. Better head ports, supposedly better rods, single turbo... awesome stuff. My friend bought one at the same time from the same guy I bought my VG30ET. The VG's are my 2nd favorite engine next to the VH45DE. I like them more than the RB26 even. The things are very strong and absolute torque monsters. The only downside to the DOHC VG's is they're quite heavy, but the power they can make should well make up for it. The SOHC VG's are incredibly light for an iron block V6 (roughly 396 lbs for the ealier Z31 Turbo model) which is supposed to be lighter than the KA24DE. Also, the VG30E's have been proven to be able to make some incredible power as well. Electromotive built a VG30ET using the stock block and heads (modified of course, just not recast or anything) and they made in excess of 1000 hp in the qualifying setup and around 900 hp in the race setup. The VG's are some very amazing engines and would definitely be a good choice imo.

Here's a new VQ monster. Running mid 11's in a heavy 4 door Maxima = power right click, save as http://www.redlinemax.com/misc/mattsrun.mpg

supposedly the heads are the same between the VG33E and the VG30E(T) so I would think they would be able to bolt on. basically you'll just need to check the port shape and size and make sure the bolt holes are the same, which i bet they all are. i have some Z31 turbo manifolds laying around so if you have some pictures or can get some measurements of the stock exhaust ports i can tell you for sure whether or not it'll line up.

going by the design of the grill, that would be a 1994 Q45, not a 1993. they're probably basing the year on the production date but i'm 99% sure that is a 94 Q. i believe the intake port design changed a bit so the power production might be slightly less than the 90-93 Q and it doesn't have the kick-*** double power peak. the benefits of the 94 and up is they have the metal backed timing chain guides so you won't have to worry about them. if someone on here is interested in getting it, be sure to confirm what year it is. if its a 93 be sure to hammer them on the timing chain guides to see if they know whether or not they've been replaced and if they haven't whether they know if the engine is in running condition or not.

heh... its definitely not as weak as some think when it can do this: http://www.theexperience.com/recordrun.htm http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=145093

whoa... is the starter under the intake manifold?? going by the pictures on your site that's the way it looks if so, i'd hope those things would never go out. (after looking at more of the page it does appear the starter is there but you mentioned you'll probably be leaving that off. if you use the TTZ tranny you can just use the TTZ starter (actually you'll most likely have to use it)) that's going to be one badass car when its done. i couldn't imagine one of those with boost.

i think its because of the Maxima owners... being a "family car" they tend to not have as much mod money but on top of that being a fwd platform makes for space contraints and the fwd trannies tend to not be as strong as the rwd trannies. if the vq30 was available in a Z car i bet there would be quite a few more high power vq's.

fj20et... droooooool those are awesome all aluminum wise i prefer the VH45DE. but, speaking of the VQ's, someone at maxima.org built a VQ32DE. low compression, turbo, lots of goodies. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=437478 http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=433416

i think most of the stuff you're mentioning has to do with the vq35. from what i've seen so far, the vq30 is a bit more stout than the vq35 in stock form. there has been a 4th gen maxima guy that made a bit over 500 hp from the vq30 but he blew up quite a few engines in the process. however, the engines were all stock block and i'm sure fuel management wasn't really up to par as it would be if using a good ecu setup. i think his setup was also using some nitrous in it. i bet they could handle 500 whp pretty easily but i'd put in some lower compression pistons and maybe a rod upgrade. with proper fuel control 500 whp shouldn't be too hard to reach. in the vq35 that's another story though. after a lot of research and stuff from the 350z guys it seems the rods are the weakest link in those engines. they were made to be as light as possible and aren't very strong stock. and upgrade quickly makes the engine handle much more power. i believe i read somewhere that they believe the block itself could actually handle upwards of 2000 hp (due to being die cast instead of sand cast like the sr20 for instance).

you would have less fitment issues without the turbo(s). it would be better to just get a vg30de instead of a vg30det(t) (all as said above). you'll only have about 222 hp from it though. better than stock of course, but... just not as fun as a turbo engine. you could probably go with some higher compression pistons and such but in the n/a world, there is no replacement for displacement. in the turbo world that tends to not hold true (since technically boost "adds" displacement).

if you have to go sc then a screws would be better. slightly more efficient. they look similar to a roots too. could always just do one of those sts type turbo setups where the turbo is in the rear

technically, i thought you were supposed to follow the emissions laws of the year the engine was produce that you're putting in there. at least that's what i thought i heard. easiest loophole... leave california cough turbochargers are better cough

you'll probably put out more than that. with about 8 psi (non intercooled), poorly tuned, crappy intake and exhaust i made about 210 whp and 240 or some odd wtq. you'll easily make much more than that on the setup you mentioned. usually used injectors aren't a very safe bet, especially the injectors nissan uses. they tend to be pretty bad.

BRC pistons from there then

6 bolt mains. If its designed like the VH45DE then there will be two on each side of the crank bearings then one on each side of those... so it looks like this: -||O||- - = side main bolts | = main bolts O = crank Hopefully that's not too confusing. Most domestic V8's have 2 or 4 bolt mains. I'm not sure about the newer ones though.

The limit is just in the tuning. I believe there's a guy on Z31.com that was using a VG30E pathfinder block and was making over 500 hp on it. I believe there are a few other guys making 400+ on 9:1 with no trouble. Its just all in the tuning. Fuel is how you can have a 15:1 compression engine running 50 pounds of boost and surviving a race with no problems.

all you have to do is use the turbo ecu on the n/a engine and that is all covered. it might need a bit of adjustment since you'll have more power due to the upped compression but overall the maps will be right for a turbo setup. think of it as just putting some higher compression pistons in a turbo engine, that is essentially all you're doing since the rest of the engine is the same.

that's interesting... i wonder if they use the same mounting locations that the maxima does. when doing the vg30et swap into my maxima that was the very same problem (i just fixed the issue by moving the turbo the crossover pipe which works wonders on the maxima). i wonder why they did that on that n/a though.

i would run an aftercooler regardless. heat is bad on the engine. i believe 10 psi is the limit non-aftercooled using a 84-86 t3 style turbo. 15 is supposed to be the limit with an aftercooler. i'm not sure of the limits of the t25's that were equipped on the later models though (87-89). i did however see a dyno of an 84-86 z31 turbo that was all stock except for the boost was turned up to 15 psi (they were probably running extremely lean or even on the virge of blowing the engine doing that) but anyways, it made about 250 rwhp and a bit over 300 ft. lb. of torque. with an aftercooler, intake, exhaust, and better fuel delivery i'm sure 300+ whp would be easy to hit. i've seen guys make 30+ whp going from a 2.5 inch exhaust to 3 inch on turbo setups. the best exhaust system for a turbo is no exhaust... but since that's illegal (and simply annoying), 3 inch definitely helps out well.

i'd personally go with a n/a block. 9:1 compression is not too high for boost. i've seen quite a few guys run 9:1 compression with a turbo and are pulling lots of power out of them with no problems. unless you're putting a ton of boost through the engine (probably upwards of 25-30 psi) you won't need that low compression. reasons to use the 9:1 compression engine: faster spooling of turbo more power throughout the entire rev range much better low end power which makes for easier launches better daily driveability potentially better fuel economy as higher compression tends to get better gas mileage n/a blocks were used through the early to mid 90's meaning you can find a lower mileage engine much easier than you would be able to with a turbo engine i turbocharged my maxima and going from 9:1 compression down to 8.3:1 was incredibly noticable. the low end pretty much sucks now. if i ever redo the setup i'll definitely be going to a 9:1 block or i'll just get some custom pistons at 9:1. also, i think the 14b might be a tiny bit small for a 3 liter v6. i'm not positive but i believe that thing would probably run out of steam very fast on one of these engines. also, if i remember correctly running about 15 psi through a 14b is a bit out of its peak efficiency. i'd just go with a decent t3 turbo. it'll bolt right to the exhaust manifold and would work much better on these engines. a .63 a/r exhaust housing is generally the nominal size for a non-ballbearing t3 on a 3 liter v6.