mtcookson

the ZZII? i could only wish to own that car... very, very awesome car. the Tommy Kaira ZZ is a pretty cool car too. doesn't look as good but it has a SR20DE in a mid engine, rwd platform. oh yeah... its carb'd. they say the thing pulls like it has a turbo in the top end. i believe it has a redline of about 9 grand. the ZZII would be badass though. the very low weight alone would make it insanely fast even if the RB was stock.

http://www.fast-autos.net/tommykaira/tkzztwo.html i have a MR2 Spyder and its very stable in the rain... so far. the bf goodrich kdw's kick some major *** so that could be why its so good in the rain. gravel on the other hand... (i shouldn't be driving on gravel anyways though... i live in kansas though so that's hard to avoid )

?? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105215 i put a reply in the other thread. i'd just turbo the n/a engine. you'd get a bit more power, spooling would be quicker, you'd retain low end power, and you'd most likely get a bit better gas mileage compared to the vg30et. it would also be cheaper to get the basics like the ecu, wiring, injectors, manifolds, and turbo compared to getting a whole motor. that's just what i would do though... i really don't see any benefits in having the actual turbo motor since the stock n/a 9:1 compression isn't all that bad for boost.

personally i'd turbo the stock n/a motor. the higher compression would make it quite a bit more fun not to mention more powerful and it would most likely get better gas mileage compared to the turbo engine. oh yeah, the VG is slightly lighter than the KA from what i've seen. the KA is a good engine... but the VG is a lot better, especially since its lighter.

slow but steady. i pretty much just need to get the tranny conversion plate made and i'll be able to start doing mounts and such. hopefully next spring it will be ready to go, so to speak. there's a lot of work to but i at least want to get it where it will drive under its own power. from there i'll start doing all of the add-ons that i need (brakes, suspension, etc.)

the VH45 has been done successfully at the very least once, but i'm pretty sure a few other guys have done it as well. i'm doing a VH45 swap myself.

those are definitely some nice numbers. hopefully i can get to work on the VG in my maxima sometime and some similar numbers.

i've thought up similar ideas before and if just sucking air through the s/c causes too much vacuum (so to speak, and most likely would only occur if using a positive displacement s/c) you could probably use one of these: http://www.mccordcg.com/mpp/mpp.htm just have your main feed pipe from the s/c, then have a secondary pipe with the valve on the end (closest to the s/c pipe). hit a switch to turn of the s/c and open the valve at the same time and that should work pretty well. the only problem i can see is weight might start getting a bit high and i've heard that in some cases those valves don't seal the greatest, but i'm not sure. a somewhat basic setup could look like this (sorry for the paint like drawings): a bit more compact setup with a single filter could look like this: there's a chance that if you did the design like the second one that you'd need two valves, one at the beginning of the "crossover pipe" and the other at the end as pictured (the black line). the maf, if one is used, would definitely have to be mounted before the crossover pipe so that it would get a proper reading (which might make the second drawing a bit easier to do.)

might check http://www.car-part.com but being overseas, shipping might be hefty.

Probably a lot less difficult with one turbo. You could do some slim manifolds coming to the front of the engine and hook them to a single turbo in the front (considering with a V engine you have a lot more room up there than with the inline). I'm planning on doing something similar with my VH45 swap as I find twin turbo setups to not really be that beneficial anymore. With ball bearing turbos and such, spooling is pretty much equal between single turbo and twin turbo setups. On top of that, most single turbo setups tend to be more powerful plus you'll have less weight, less heat, and lower costs since you don't have to buy nearly two of everything needed in a turbo system.

The VG30E(T) and VG30DE(T)(TT) blocks are basically the exact same design, however, the head bolt holes and I believe coolant and oil passages differ quite a bit between the sohc and dohc VG's. There are even differences in those between the 84-86 VG30E(T) and 87-94~ish VG30E(T) due to a upgrade of the design. Basically, without some major modification it most likely can't be done. Also, you probably wouldn't really want to unless you're planning on changing the internals of the VG30ET as well. The VG30E(T) has a larger combustion chamber than the DE(TT) which would make the compression ratio very different if you mixed and matched the rods and pistons or heads. If I remember correctly the VG30E(T) has a combustion chamber volume of roughly 55 or so cc and the DE(TT) heads between 40 and 45 cc. Basically, if you're wanting a DOHC VG your best bet is to get a DOHC VG. It would be too much work to really make swapping the DOHC heads onto the SOHC block worth it. Granted the VG30DE(TT)'s are quite expensive, I think the time and money that you'd have to put into converting the VG30E(T) would make it not worthwhile. This is all basing off of information I've gathered. No one has tried it to my knowledge so there's the slight chance that it might be a worthwhile task... I'm 99% sure that won't be the case though.

Comparing the swap to the 350 swap for instance, its a pretty difficult swap. I'd say really, the hardest part is just getting a manual tranny on there (if that's the way you want to go). Since none are made for it to anyones knowledge you either have to get a custom bell housing made or, for the trannies with a non-removable bell housing, a conversion plate which is what I'm doing and what a few others have done. Once you get that done its your normal wiring and motor/tranny mount fabrication that you'd have to do with 99% of the other swaps, which shouldn't be all that difficult so to speak. The only other problem area that I can forsee is the size of the oil pan and intake manifold might make the engine a bit tall for the Z... but I'm not sure. I'm planning on going dry sump myself, which will eliminate the oil pan situation (if there is one) and also allow me to set the engine lower if need be taking the intake manifold situation out of there (as above, if there is one). I'm in the middle of the swap right now so I'll know more very soon. I FINALLY got the parts in that I needed to get the tranny setup on there so I'll be dropping by a machine shop to get a conversion plate made or I'll just do it myself possibly. I'm using the 300ZX Twin Turbo 5-speed tranny which doesn't have a removable bell housing (sucks) but, its a very very stout tranny proven to handle at least 600 hp without modification. The VH45DE is a wonder. Stock it has 6 bolt mains, a massive girdle tieing all of the mains together as well as (from what I can tell) some massive cast steel caps holding the crank into place. It has sodium filled valves, stock. Produces in the range of 300-315 hp and tq stock and in the 90-93 engines actually peaks the power out two times in the power band (not something many engines accomplish)... Having had a Q45 I'm sure you know what I mean, how the thing will give you a nice tug two times in the same gear. Its a blast stock and with some big mods could make that very fun. As I was saying above, these engines are nearly race built from the factory. They actually used a destroked version of this engine in, I believe, the R89C race car and they also use a variation of it in their Indy cars. Its closer to the newer VK45DE but that engine and the VH45DE are nearly the same. There are guys making 600 hp or more on the stock block. One guy I know of was using a roots supercharger with nitrous making around 600 hp with no internal modifications. Another ran a 275 shot of nitrous, stock block. Another guy is running a twin turbo setup making 500 to 600 hp and that is in a Z32 (I believe his username is "lost" on here. http://www.freewebs.com/axepower). These are all on the stock, 10.2:1 compression ratio engine. I don't believe they are even tapping the full potential of this engine. You get custom lower compression pistons, about 9:1 or so, turn up the boost and you could make some incredible power. I'd also either get some custom rods or, to keep costs down a bit, work with the stock rods a bit. They're already forged, as well as the crank. Stock pistons are cast so those might need to be replaced at a certain point (but that certain point is quite high). Might even toss in some oil squirters to hit the bottoms of the piston for some extra cooling. If that's not your style, then you could probably get by with some coated pistons. Whichever way one were to choose, these engines have so much potential that the possibilities are nearly limitless. Another Nissan engine I'd recommend is the VG30DETT. They are probably Nissan's second best engine in my opinion (yes, I believe they are truly better than Nissan's coveted RB26DETT. I'd probably rate that engine at 3rd). They are torque monsters all throughout the rev range yet can make gobs of top end power as well. On top of that, they are very, very strong. Plus, being a newer and highly modified engine there is lots of aftermarket support. As a comparison, there's a post on here somewhere comparing a nearly equally modded VG30DETT to a RB26DETT. The RB made 13.4 more horsepower than the VG coming in at 759.9 hp at 7,820 rpm. (The VG did 746.5 hp at 6,550 rpm.) The VG made... get this... over 300 ft. lbs. of torque more than the RB coming in at 865.8 ft. lbs. tq to the RB's 543.2 ft. lbs. Not only did it make that much more, it peaked at 4550 rpm. The RB's peak torque was at 7,000 rpm. The only real downside to the VG is the weight. It weighs even more than the VH45DE (which is natural since the VG has an iron block and the VH45 is all aluminum). Hopefully this will help you make a more informed decision and not confuse you at all. If you have any questions on those just ask me because I love just studying these engines all of the time. The ones I really know best is the VG30E(T) and the VH45DE but I also have some good knowledge of a few other engines. Most of all, good luck with whatever decision you make.

They believe stock power output of the VH45DE is actually closer to 300-315 hp and tq. I mean no offense but, I'm sorry to hear that you're putting in a less superior engine. That VH45 is to die for. The thing is damn near race built from the factory and will handle just about whatever you throw at it. I don't want to start any flame wars or anything but its the truth. They are very awesome engines. One of Nissan's finest IMO.

the n/a Z32 engine is the VG30DE and the turbo Z32 engine is the VG30DETT. that VG30DETT is the most commong swap (naturally) but I think the best swap is the VH45DE. a guy on here did it to his Z and has a badass Z32 that makes tons of power. oh yeah, i forgot to mentioned he twin turboed it too. http://www.freewebs.com/axepower/

so then you can just use a conversion plate or, depending on the tranny, a custom bell housing. simple.

new maybe not, but there are a ton of them on car-part.com for between $2200 and $3630

Actually, most inline engines have a higher center of gravity than V engines. They lean the inlines over a little bit to try lower the high center of gravity but unless they make a very, very short stroke inline engine it'll sit higher than most V engines. Higher compression actually tends to give better gas mileage than low compression. I was also surprised by the S2000's low gas mileage. I have a MR2 Spyder and although it doesn't have the power output the S2000 has, its still gets about 32-35 mpg on the highway. I'm not sure the reason the S2000 has such poor gas mileage so to speak... you could have 1 million horse power but when under partial throttle you'll only make very few. Actually now that I think of it, I know why the S2000 has such poor gas mileage. Its because of its very high peak torque. Peak torque is where the engine is most efficient and therefore would burn less gas. If you have a low rpm peak torque, that'll be where your peak fuel economy comes from. For instance, my 90 Nissan Maxima has a torque peak at about 2800 rpm stock. I turbocharged it and I can still nearly get 30 mpg if I keep the cruising rpm at around 2800 (which I can do up to about 80 mph in 5th) (the peak torque of the turbo engine is around 4400 rpm due to the lower compression and such but it still has good torque down low). Granted, I got better gas mileage n/a simply because the peak torque was at the 2800 rpm where I could keep the rpm's at while cruising. I bet when I put the 9:1 VG back in it and keep it turbo, my gas mileage will increase quite a bit due to the increased compression and 2800 peak torque. I think the reason the MR2 has such good gas mileage because it has one of the most linear torque curves I've ever seen. It makes a lot of torque down low which is probably due to the constantly variable valve timing. Have only variable lift seems kind of pointless for a street engine imo. On the SR, could you not legally swap an early US spec SR and turbocharge it? Seems like you could make that legal pretty easily, especially one that use OBD1. Unless they drastically changed the design between the FWD and RWD SR, which I wouldn't think would be too likely since for instance the VG30E was used in both FWD and RWD cars and had no difference in the block or heads, I would think you could find a rwd tranny from a RWD SR vehicle that could bolt right up. If nothing else, you could just have a bell housing or tranny conversion plate made. You'd spend less money doing a swap like that compared to the F20C plus you'd make more power and have a hell of a lot more torque.

they do fit perfectly as OneSickZ said... however i found out recently the reason not to use them is the difference in the heads. you can use the rods just fine but you'll need custom made pistons. the rods/pistons use a floating wrist pin instead of a pressed in pin which is supposed to be better so they're supposed to be a good upgrade however the combustion chamber of the VG30DE(TT) is smaller than the combustion chamber of the VG30E(T). basically this mean the compression ratio will be a lot lower if you put DE(TT) pistons in a E(T). i'm not sure how much lower the compression ratio will be but it'll be enough that it'll probably make it a dog off the line. personally i'd go to a place like BRC to get some custom made pistons for the TTZ rods with a 9:1 compression ratio. that should give awesome strength with very quick spooling of the turbo and a lot more power all around. more importantly, you'll have much better low end response with the 9:1. comparing my maxima's 9:1 VG to the jdm 8.3:1 vg-t that i put in it, it now is a lot harder to take off from a stop than it used to be. down the road i'd like to put a 9:1 vg back in it.

I believe the early non w-block VG30ET was 396 dry according to Z31.com. I'm not sure what was all on the engine though.

Looks like he's actually already been to the ECU forums over there and got the same answer as we gave here, basically.

Just curious, but what is your reason of putting the SR20 in a Z32? I don't want to make it sound like its a stupid swap in any way, but, it seems like the SR20 in such a heavy car as the Z32 would be kind of counter-productive. Granted you'll lighten the front end a **** load (which will require a major change to the front suspension) but I don't believe it will lighten the car enough to make it as fun as say a S13/14 with a SR20 in it. The VG-TT is such a torque beast that it can move those Z32's like they were nothing. The SR20 has a much higher end power output and on top of that has 2 less cylinder with 1 less liter... it just doesn't seem like it would have enough low and mid range grunt to move that type of weight (unless of course you're going to try getting the weight down of the Z32 a lot... nearly half a ton. You should be able to shave a few hundred pounds alone using the SR but I'm not quite sure what else would have to be done to make it lighter).

Do you happen to know what all that includes? That seems aweful heavy to just be the engine since its an all aluminum V8.

Actually... I would go with a stock ecu, but with the Zemulator. My friend has a VG30DET and was talking to JWT about it trying to find out what ecu setup to use. They said to use the Z32 n/a wiring harness and ecu with a reprogram (or using a Zemulator in this case). Tuning wise, the stock ecu with the Zemulator would probably be way more powerful than most of the standalone units out there. The only thing you don't have with a chipped ecu compared to stand alone is extra inputs/outputs. Other than that though, a stock ecu with the Zemulator (or even a romulator in that case) is usually a much better idea than stand alone. With the Zem option the standalones are pretty much a waste of money. If you're dead set on standalone though I've heard good things about Microtech.

Yeah, I definitely agree with Clifton on the VH/VK. Search for the member "lost" for info on his VH45DE(TT) powered Z32.