mtcookson

Yeah, I definitely like the options I'd have with the 240SX rear setup plus if I used the Q45 hubs and brakes in the rear I should be able to fit 15 inch wheels for the strip if needed. Man... too many options. My only fear is that the car might be fast enough that the guys at the drag strip would likely not let me run without it. I'll have to double check their rules but I believe they would require me to have one. I believe they go by NHRA rules. I don't want anything too extreme but enough to pass tech and keep me safe.

Thanks for the input. The only thing I didn't catch was monoballs. Are you talking like the heim joints?

This page has my writeup of my turbo engine swap. It has most of the basics of turbocharging the Maxima: http://members.cardomain.com/mtcookson I have a sort of updated tutorial on what should be done instead of a swap in this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=409410 This one is somewhat old but its a FAQ I thew together: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=304464&highlight=turbo+writeup That should hopefully get you started.

If you're talking about the VG30E S13, that manifold is off of a Maxima from 85-88.

I'm swapping a VH45DE into my 75 280Z and am planning on turbocharging it. I'm trying to figure out what the best setup will be for the rear end. I'm having a hard time deciding between the R200V and the R230. I already have the Q45 diff. since I just bought the whole car for the engine and such but can't seem to find definite info on some things. I'm wanting to make probably at least 600 rwhp so its going to need to be quite strong. From what I've found so far it seems the Z32 R230 would be the strongest (next to the Armada R230) then likely the R200V would be next. It seems the R200V is supposed to have stronger axles but from a bunch of pictures I've seen, the R230 and R200V have the same bolt pattern for the CV's... is this true? Another thing I'm trying to decide on is gearing wise. The R200V comes with a 3.538 ratio and the R230 a 3.692. Its a slight difference, but enough so that I can't decide which would be best. In the end, I guess I'm basically trying to find out what would handle the power the best for my setup. I have another thread in the suspension forum trying to figure out what would be strongest there and that will likely be a big factor into what diff. I can use but any input would definitely be appreciated. Before confusing myself more looking at all of the different setups I was basically considering this setup: Definites - VH45DE with a turbo and a Z32 TT 5-speed Most of the parts I was planning on getting were from MM: Billet R230 CV adapter with custom axles (anyone know if this was designed for the true Z32 R230 or for the Q45 R200V commonly mistaken as a R230?) Billet 280Z stub axles w/ 5x4.5 lug pattern I was also thinking about getting their new rear control arms... but that's pending on what would be a good suspension setup. The 240SX rear end swap really caught my eye since you can use the coilovers and the Q diff bolts right up but I'm still very undecided on the whole setup. Basically, I need it to handle the power but I definitely want to keep it an IRS. Any pointers?

Okay... so, I have a 1975 280Z. I'm swapping in a VH45DE and will be turbocharging it. I'm wanting to make a minimum of about 600 rwhp. I'm trying to figure out what to do about the suspension and the drivetrain so I'll try to keep everything split up and make another thread in the drivetrain forum. Current plans to make all this work utilize: TTZ 5-speed 280YZ kit (at the very least in the rear) From Modern Motorsports: Billet R230 CV adapter w/ custom shafts 280Z stub axles (5x4.5 adapter) I'm trying to figure out if the suspension will handle this power, and if not what can be done about it. I've been doing tons of reading and I've seen everything from a incredibly fast [slightly improved] stock suspension Z to full custom carriages and everything. I basically want to take the car drag racing a little bit, autocrossing, and to some road races if possible. It will also be driven on the street. I know, I know... wanting to do all those things will keep it from excelling in one particular type but I'm not really planning on doing all out racing, moreso I just want to go out and have some fun at the various events without having to have a dedicated car to that event. I'm trying to decide between the R230 and R200V, which will likely dictate the type of suspension setups I'm able to use. I'm leaning towards the Q45 diff. since I already have one, the lower ratios will likely fit better being turbocharged, and its supposed to have quite strong axles. A swap I noticed that really interested me was the S13/S14 rear end swap. There was a lot of debate on whether it actually benefitted the car over the stock suspension but being able to drop the Q diff right in, having the 5 lugs, and being able to use the 240SX coilovers in the rear seems kind of nice. I'm not really much for the sleeve coilovers so that seems like a good choice. Really in the end though, I just need something that'll handle the power but will handle decently. I'm planning on getting it caged to stiffen up the chassis a bit and such but I'm just trying to find the best route I can. What would you guys recommend for this type of setup? (I'm leaving a few specifics out but have most of the stuff covered. If you guys need anymore info from me, just let me know.) I guess I should also ask, what are some suggestions for the front suspension? It definitely seems to be a weak link and would definitley like to spend some time improving it if at all possible.

This one? http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB9&Number=67961180&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

There's a chance the 87+ VG30E(T)'s are slightly heavier than that 392 listed as they changed the design to help NVH. They called the later engines the W block. The page that has all of the changes seems to be down right now but if it comes back up, this is the link: http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~radare/wserieschanges.html

I would guess that they would be different that any of the other vehicles listed as it will have a couple extra wires for the additional injectors and will likely have even more wires for the direct ignition (when compared to an engine with a distributor). You might take a look at http://www.nicoclub.com for some parts as there are a lot of Q45 guys over there. They might be able to point you in the right directly pretty quickly.

As said above the VG30DE(TT) is a lot wider. On top of that, it is much heavier. From what I hear, well over 500 lbs. The guy that did the VH45DE swap into a Z32 said the VG30DETT was heavier than the VH45 (kind of apples and oranges since the VG is iron block w/ aluminum heads while the VH is all aluminum but compared to the VG30E(T), it is very heavy). The swap would definitely be awesome. I actually considered doing it in my 280Z until I decided on the VH45. Whenever my brother gets some money together I'll likely be doing this swap into an S14. Should definitely be fun after that.

Yeah, that looks pretty good. Nice work!

a vacuum leak could definitely cause some issues but unless it was a pretty big one i wouldn't think it would be causing that big of a problem. although, if it were leaking around an injector those gaskets are big enough that it could cause a pretty big vacuum leak if it was pretty bad. does that VG still have side feed injectors or top feed?

holy hell... 80 Z cars??? that's awesome.

My brother wants me to do this swap on his S14. It would definitely be an awesome swap because you get the awesome torque of the VG without a lot of weight. (From what I've found, the VG30E(T) actually weighs less than the KA24DE). On top of weighing less you can get it close to firewall (and being shorter in length than the KA) will move more of the weight to the center. On top of that the engine isn't near as tall lowering your center of gravity for even better handling. Most of this is speculation but it all makes sense and should definitely work out for some very fun times. I'm not too sure of the specifics on how to do it yet, as I've not done it, but I think really the hardest part will be the wiring. You mainly just have to make everything work together. I think that since you have the S13 it'll be a bit less of a hassle than the S14 though due to the OBD1 vs. OBD2 ecu's. Unstable Hybrids actually made motor mounts to do the swap but I'm not sure if they're still in business or not... their website isn't up so I'm not sure. That would really suck if they were because they did some pretty awesome hybrids. There's a thread that I've seen of someone doing the VG swap into an S13 but I'll have to find it again. I can't remember where its at at the moment. For now, here are some pictures of that swap that I saved to my computer.

might take a look at http://www.car-part.com and i see some floating around on the classifieds at http://www.z31.com every once in a while. might also look on ebay but i think you'll have better luck at car-part.com.

if you're planning on a supercharger i'd personally go with a screws (whipple). they are way more efficient than a roots, nearly as efficient as a centrifugal, and give you the instant boost down low like a roots. definitley the best supercharger imo. the only thing better would be a turbo since they're efficient and more importantly don't have any parsitic losses.

Ahhh, hey man. Small world... wide web eh? If its the injectors you can start by pulling the spark plug wires off. The crappy part is, you need the engine running to tell. Start the engine, then pull one spark plug wire and listen for changes in the way the engine runs. If rpm drops then put the spark plug wire back and check another. If its an injector, or even a plug/wire, when you pull one of the wires and the engine doesn't change at all you've found where the problem is. Have to be careful though. Those things will shock the hell out of you if the wires have any bad spots.

For the tranny, i'd swap in either a 1987-1989 300ZX Turbo transmission or a 1990-1996 300ZX transmission. They are basically the same gearbox. The Z32 trannies are said to handle 600 hp no problem so they should work for what you want. If you go with a VG30DETT clutch setup be sure to get the tranny from the Z32 Twin Turbo as the start mounting spot is slightly different than the N/A Z32. It has slightly more material on that spot due to the larger clutch and flywheel setup. (240 mm N/A vs. 250 mm TT)

not likely to be the maf as if that was causing an issue, the ecu is supposed to keep the engine from revving past roughly 2.5k to 3k rpm. another thing that could cause running issues is the coolant temperature sensor. there should be two of them, one for the gauge and one for the ecu. the one for the ecu would be the causing the problems. it should have two contacts whereas the gauge sensor will have one. for it to be acting the way it does, it either must be running too rich, too lean, or a cylinder isn't firing. does black smoke come out at all? if so, its running rich and can be due to too much fuel, not enough air, an ignition misfire, or an injector putting in too much fuel. no black smoke? if its running lean it can be due to not enough fuel, too much air, or an injector isn't putting in enough fuel. when was the last time the distributor cap, rotor, and wires have been replaced? does it sound like the engine is missing (lopy idle, doesn't sound smooth)? since it has issues only when it gets warm the first thing i'd check would probably be the coolant temperature sensor since that is highly affected by engine temp. once that's checked out we can go from there if it doesn't go. hopefully some other guys chime in with their ideas too though so we can try tracing the exact problem.

If it weren't for people being afraid of nuclear energy (and probably the damn environmentalists) then we would probably have some pretty safe nuclear energy even today. I would think a nuclear battery could be made pretty safe, but who knows.

VG30E(T) and VG30DE(T)(TT) have the same bell housing design so tranny shouldn't be a worry as you said. I'm 99.999% sure the intake manifold won't switch over. VG30E is SOHC and VG30DE is DOHC, naturally. The heads on the DE are much wider and I'm pretty sure the ports are different. I've not messed with a DE(TT) before but I'm pretty sure the intake wouldn't swap. I know for sure the exhaust manifolds are different (I know you didn't mention them but I figured I'd put that out there just incase). Either way though, if you could pull that swap off it'd be pretty cool. Personally, I'd put in another VG30E. Turbo it with a somewhat larger turbo than stock, but not too big. Something that'll spool pretty quick and give you 250-300 whp pretty easily. This would be a sweet setup for a truck since usually you want some good low end grunt in those vehicles (I guess it really depends on whether or not you tow stuff and such). The VG30DE(TT)'s have excellent low end torque compared to say an RB26 but compared to the VG30E(T) the peak torque is a bit higher. Peak torque of the VG30E comes at roughly 2800 rpm. If memory serves VG30DE(TT)'s are slightly over 4000 rpm. I know a guy who turbo charged his 93 Maxima and that sucker dynoed at over 300 ft. lb. torque at 2800 rpm. That would be a blast. That's with a Toyota CT26 turbo on there. I can't remember what psi he was running. Anyways, just another really good option.

http://www.acpropulsion.com/tzero_pages/tzero_home.htm I swear if they ever allowed nuclear batteries [that were safe, which shouldn't be hard] you could make an incredible electric car. That would be very fun.

After reading all of this, it makes me even more glad that I bought a Toyota MR2 Spyder. 2195 pounds... A bit on the underpowered side, but with only 138 hp and 125 ft. lb. torque it is still faster than most cars with more power. Down the road it'll either get a turbo kit, or a 2ZZ-GE swap with a turbo kit. Damn that'd be fun.