mtcookson

supposedly pvc is very bad to use on an engine... something like fumes are created from the heat that go into the engine and are bad for it or something along those lines.

I've been looking into those for a while now. I'm planning on putting one on my Maxima and a hybrid Holset on the Z. What kind of power are you looking to get? The HY35 should spool pretty good but depending on how much power you're looking to get can choke at the top end. A 12 cm HX35 would probably still spool just as well yet be able to flow a lot more. Also... from what I can tell the 2002 or so on up Dodge's have the newest design which includes a cast titanium compressor wheel!! That should help spooling even more. As an idea of how well these things work, there's a page floating around somewhere where a guy basically built a junk yard car. He used a Ford 2,3 liter, 8 valve, 4 cylinder engine and still made one of the 12 cm or 14 cm HX35's spool by 3800 rpm!

"The Japanese test, you can read? Someone please write the reply." using a translator

my personal guess would either be none or less. the gtr is twin turbo so taking a turbo off of a tt engine and putting it on a single turbo engine would most likely not gain you anything. i'd have to see the sizes of them though. i'll search around and see what i can find. ok, it does look like the stock rb20det turbo would be the one to stick with when comparing to the gtr turbos. it seems like the later rb20's (r32 and up) had a better turbo than the earlier ones and are actually sometimes a pretty sought after turbo. from what i can tell they are ball bearing and are just all around a very decent turbo. they'll handle about 1.2 bar of boost and spool pretty well. the gtr turbos' exhaust housings are just too small to use in a single turbo application. you would quickly choke the engine or just shred the turbo to pieces.

i found them, they were in my hotmail account for some reason (which i don't check all that often) lol

very, very nice! i'd love to do a custom console... but that'll be a bit down the road after i get the engine in

ahh, alrighty!

you sure RB means race built?? i've heard numerous times that that isn't true...

speaking of rotaries i picked up a 75 mazda rotary pickup recently... definitely excited to get this thing going. plans are a turbo 2 engine and tranny. should be enough to pull the Z considering stock, with 110 hp, guys have pulled a lot of weight with them (one up to about 5,000 lbs). only problem with them is braking which shouldn't be too hard to overcome.

my take... borg warner sucks an absolute big one... they are on the top of my to kill list. granted all of shitty borg warner trouble i've had is with a fwd maxima but that doesn't mean it doesn't extend to all of their other trannies. i've heard of numerous people complaining about the bw tranny in the Z31's and i also know someone who's had an absolutely horrendous time with one in a camaro. i personally would never touch a borg warner tranny with even a 10 mile long pole. the only thing that should touch a borg warner transmission is a ******* nuclear warhead... scratch that... one of those needs to be put in all of their manufacturing facilities so that no one ever has to deal with the **** that is made by borg warner. that's just my opinion though. lol

its not totally free power as that would defy the laws of physics and whatever but its damn close. they are way more efficient than all other forms of forced induction out right now. reason why this wouldn't work too well is simple... a turbo spins in excess of 100,000 rpm. a roots supercharger that uses the same basic turbo compressor design spins a maximum of about 40,000 rpm. this is because the wheel was designed to push the high amount of boost at that speed compared to the turbo which is designed to create the boost at does at the very high speeds it does. lets say for instance you have an engine that will spin to 10,000 rpm. to get a pulley setup that would spin the turbo's compressor wheel at the 100,000+ rpm needed the pulleys would need to be something like this: Crank pulley - 10 inches Turbo pulley - 1 inch Or to minimize the size Crank pulley - 5 inches Turbo pulley - .5 inches this would land you 100,000 rpm compressor speed at 10,000 rpm engine speed. now... lets make it more realistic. 6,000 rpm redline Crank pulley - 10 inches Turbo pulley - .6 inches Crank pulley - 5 inches Turbo pulley - ~.3 inches If you were at 3,000 rpm with this setup the compressor would be spinning at half the speed, 50,000 rpm which most likely is either not producing much boost or is out of the turbo's efficiency range. Basically that's the reason why that wouldn't work out too well (considering a .5 inch or even a 1 inch pulley would most likely be hard to come by and even make work as would a 10 inch pulley on the crank... ouch). (i'm pretty sure i got the pulley calculations right, someone please correct me if i'm wrong) Now... the reason why you 'wouldn't' want to do this is because: 1. a belt driven compressor is inefficient compared to an exhaust driven compressor. its been proven that s/c's take quite a bit of power from the engine to run. for instance... they estimate up to a 500 hp loss on very high hp drag cars. (its too bad turbos aren't allowed in those races... that'd prove to everyone that turbos are better... ******* idiots paying people off to keep turbos out so they don't lose s/c sales most likely ) 2. boost isn't attained till redline (centrifugal) or boost tends to drop off nearing redline (roots) 3. centrifugal s/c's still have a sort of lag... they basically don't produce boost instantly. a roots does... however due to their nature they aren't made to boost very high and are pretty hard to cool (the air charge) in the end, a good ol' regular turbo setup can't be beat. if i remember correctly a magazine (hot rod or something like that) did a test with a mustang using a roots, centrifugal, and a turbo setup on it. they didn't change anything between the tests at all except for the type of forced induction and everytime the turbo came out on top. more reasons they're better... older f1 cars used to use turbo's and it is estimated they pulled about 1,500 hp... ... ... out of a 1.5 liter engine! makes you wonder what one would do on a funny car...

hmm... is it just me or do i only count 4 exhaust pipes coming out of each side? (which could either mean one of the pipes joins the other so the 4 can fit or something else...)

i haven't received any pictures yet...

that things that i quoted is from a guy that's on a maxima forum i'm on. he tried it on his maxima engine while the heads were off and so far everything seems good. i'll keep tabs on it and see how the long term effects are. he did say the idling got a lot better as the article said would happen and he also said his car has never ran better... so, so far it seems its working out really well. i guess time will tell.

yeah, i've heard of the pointy thing too. my guess on this is that since the grooves induce movement during compression compared to the mixture being stagnant, it allows them to cool off (or at the very least keeps the mixture from staying around hot spots in the cylinder). i should have reminded the guy to cc the heads to see how much of an increase there was, i didn't even think about it at the time.

here's something interesting that boosted maxima guy did after reading an article in popular science:

agghhh, i'm confused now... lol http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93444 (second post)

what's the benefit of going with a Z31 T3? i thougt they were smaller than the 280ZX turbo....???

valve float is only caused by the springs not being strong enough to pop the valve back into place in time. i would think you could keep the hydraulic lifters and just get some better springs to fix that problem. besides, i'd take hydraulic lifters anyday over ones that you'd have to adjust. they just seem to be a lot better and less of a headache imo. i know of the jwt springs but didn't know that ferrea made them. i know ferrea makes some over sized valves and such. are the jwt and ferrea springs a bit stiffer than stock?

ahhh, crap. that bites. good luck with whichever route you take!

fl, you want me to put you on the list for the trans adapter? if so, you'll be number 7... so very close!!!

T3 - 84-86 T25 - 87-89 both have the same t3 style flange that bolts to the manifold from what i can tell. my jdm engine came with the t25 i believe and the t3 that i picked up bolted right to it. i believe the oil flanges and such are different.

from what i understand... usually with a larger turbo you'll run less pressure due to its higher air flow at any given pressure. with a smaller turbo that can provide the air of the larger turbo but at a higher pressure should get you the same amount of hp (maybe a bit less due to efficiency) however the pressure, being higher, should land you more torque (this is due to turbochargers theoretically increasing the displacement of an engine. for every 14.7 psi of boost, you are effectively increasing the displacement of the engine by two times. so, if you have a 3 liter v6 engine running 14.7 lbs. of boost it would be the equivalent of a n/a 6 liter v6.) the only downside to running more pressure is it can be harder on the engine and the heat is probably a lot higher... but you should gain a good amount of torque.

most likely it should be the same... i'm not positive but i bet all nissan did was change the bore and stroke of the vh45 to get the 4.1 liters. it'll definitely be down on the power and potential... but i bet it would still be strong as hell. there's a page floating around online that has some info on a guy swapping a vh41 into a 240sx edit: yeah, it looks like they destroked it a little bit for the decrease in displacement. appears to be a 76 mm stroke compared to the vh45's 82.7. the bore stays the same at 93 mm on both engines. with the stroke being a bit less i bet that engine could be made to rev quite high.... that'd be pretty fun to do