SATAN

Holy ♥♥♥♥. I dont even want to imagine how much that cage weighs LOL. Thats gotta be like 200lbs worth of steel!

Dont know if this will help you but it give dimensions on the z31 components http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=669

Sorry guys, all my links are broken because I moved some crap around in my photobucket account. I would go and edit it so it works again, but I don't have the ability to do that. These are some of the pictures that are missing. Down side is that you kinda have to figure out where they go now. Here, this should be the same order as I have it listed above.

Yeah, I wanted to do velocity stacks but the 2nd and third runners are righ next to each other and same with the 3rd and fourth. So it goes 1...2,3...4,5...6 basically. So I welded the plenum to the lower and rounded out the ports to make as much of a velocity stack as I could. I agree on the rounded back wall also, but I figured if the wall was far enough past the last runner it would be alright. I appreciate the input.

OHHHHH MANNNNN!!!! SO HAPPY!!!!

Hey Tim, Just checking out your thread. Pretty impressive numbers. Are you planing on running higher octane and bumping up the psi a little more or playing it safe with what you know works? I have a z31 with 42R as well. However, I am not blessed with the TEC3. I am cursed with the TEC2. I am shooting for 800 to the wheels at roughly 30 psi or so... not on 94 octane though LOL, But we will see what happens this summer hopefully. Here is a pic of my engine bay last summer, didnt get to the dyno last year because fuel pressure was dropping off dramatically so i ditched the twin walbro's and went with a big pump. Anyways, just wanted to say congrats on the numbers even though I believe it was a little while ago.

Yes there is a washer. My buddy has his 88 turbo tranny sitting on his garage floor. I looked at it and there was a lock washer under the fulcrum bolt. Roughly 3/32" thick.

If you took one of them and welded under it to add a little more meat, you could shape it to a better radius. They are pretty cheap.

This is the plenum I am currently working on. I thought it was pretty cool until I saw the plenum thread in the other section:eek:. Either way... It has 6 plus liters of volume for my 3 liter engine (VG30ET). Six if you count just the plenum, and plus if you count runners and pipe right after the throttle body. This is to supply plenty of air at 8k rpms. I put a simple diffuser down the middle of it going into the pipe that sits right behind the throttle body. This is to pull swirl out of the incoming air obviously. It is ground sharp like a knife edge. The back side of the plenum hangs past the last runner about 5 inches. This is because as the air smacks the back wall, there is a lot of turbulence at that point. I wanted to make sure it was out of the way of a port. It seems as though most plenum's taper outward right after the T/B. I figured that if I put the pipe to a flat section the dramatic change from it coming out of the pipe would help to slow it down faster. It utilizes the 90mm Q45 throttle body which has a venturi of 80mm. It is not done just yet, I have been fitting and testing to make sure everything was going to clear first. My last plenum I made was only slightly larger than 3 liters and it tapered down toward the last cylinder. I didn't do that on this plenum. Let me know what you think. Maybe I can change something if your suggestions are good. It is only tacked right now. Ok, enough rambling, here are some pics. Didn't have much light so the red looking ones are where I was covering the flash so it wasn't blinding.

That is GREAT information! I saw those pictures while researching but didnt want to draw the wrong conclusions by saying it was 30 spline. I am glad you can confirm that it is 30 spline AND that it is also available in the 89 R32 GT-R. Does that say that it is a 3.79 ratio on there?

OK I WIN!!!!!! Why? Because out of all the posts in this thread, I am the only one who has a Z31 with the OEM block! There is only one other guy with a Z31 and he dropped a domestic engine in there. Maybe thats why they call this site HYBRIDZ though huh? The blue dash lights are pretty unique. There are some other guys that have that though.

Yeah, I need to jump to a tec3r or just a tec GT. I dont need all the bells and whistles of the R. The GT will do sequential if I hook up a wheel on the cam so... That and it isn't as much as the R, but it still has more GPO's than the TEC2. Its funny but with my TEC2 when it dies like that while I am driving, I dont even have to unplug anything. I just sit there in my seat with my harness on and wait a couple minutes, try again and I am good to go. It only does it like every other week of daily driving though. While we are talking about TEC2's... Have any of you guys gotten a wide band sensor to work with one? I have an LM-1 which can send the narrow band signal that the TEC2, but that doesn't do much for tuning. I have heard of converters and a whole mess of crap to simulate the 5 volt signal but is it really worth it to even mess with? Or just stick with the narrow band for now and wait till I grab a TEC GT to do wide band? I can obviously still log with the LM-1 and go back in and tune but... Thats not helping my TEC2 stay in the 11:1 range under heavy boost.

I am inclined to agree.

Wait a minute, you have both the 280 and the 300 flywheel in front of you, and you cant tell if they are the same or not??????? I'm confused now.

Not a lock washer. It is a spring clip that holds the fork to the ball. If it is not there, your fork will flop all over the place.

OR.... if you guys just wanted to make your own using readily available half shafts..... You may be able to use some of this information. http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6294

This doesn't really fall into the same problem however, These are the problems I experience with my TEC2. When I park the car for winter, I will go to fire it up again a few months later with fresh gas and the car will not start. Will not even TRY to start. It did this to me last spring and I messed with everything I could think of and couldn't get it going. Then one day I tried it again, and it fired right up with out missing a beat. I have no idea why. Currently it is doing the same thing now that it is spring time and time to pull it out again. It will probably just decide to spring into life again. Meh... The other problem I have with my TEC2 is that I will be driving down the road, and the whole computer will just shut off. Car shuts down and I have to coast out of the way and to a stop. I wait about 2 minutes and it fires right back up, no problems.

Time to upgrade to the z31 half shafts....

I was also just informed that the Nissan Armada front diff uses 1.26" diameter input shafts. This is 32mm for those wondering about metric. That is another 1+mm larger than the Q45 or the twin turbo Z's input shafts. Gear ratio out of the Armada R230 is 2.94. So if you are driving across country at 10000 mph but only want your engine to wind up to 500rpm's, this is the ratio for you LOL. If not, you could most likely swap out ring gears and pinion gear from the TTZ R230.

Wow! Just saw this thread. I havent been here very long and have been trolling around looking at different threads. It is funny I came across this one because I just finished fabbing my surge tank about 1.5 months ago. Here is the one I made and will be using. The reason it has a fuel cap on top is for the days I go to the race track. I disconnect the pump that feeds the surge tank and cap it off, Drain the surge tank (which is only 1 gallon) and then I can fill my surge tank with race gas. This way, I am not introducing street gas with my race gas while I am at the track. I dont have to worry about running my main tank down to vapors just so I can get as much pure race gas to the injectors as possible. When I am done at the track, I just plug everything back up normal and I have my normal surge tank again. I have a 255 walbro feeding the surge tank and a Magnafuel fuel pump pulling from the surge tank. Cant remember the part number for the Magnafuel pump, but it is good for about 1000+ WHP In turbo applications. I dont need all of that but I will need about 800WHP worth.

I have also been finding 2 way LSD's on Ebay that have the 6 bolt equally spaced input flanges. These are coming out of some of the R33 Skyline's. As far as I know it is only the R33 V-spec. Also as far as I know, anything that uses the 6 bolt equally spaced input shafts are 30 spline (Still dont know what it up with that damn armada diff). This info may be good for anyone that wants to run the larger 30 spline, but doesn't want to run the crappy VLSD. They can have the better 2 way carrier instead! Now, I do not know this for 100% fact, so dont get mad at me when you purchase your R33 two way LSD off of someone and your Q45 or your TT input shafts wont fit because they are to big. You need to ask the seller if it is the larger 30 spline before you buy it.

I have been searching and searching like crazy to find out this exact information. So far here is what I know. The twin turbo z32 AND ONLY the twin turbo z32 (NOT THE N/A) Comes with the 30 spline VLSD R230. The 90-96 Infinity Q45 AND ONLY 90-96, comes with the 30 spline VLSD R200. I have been coming across more info on the V-spec R33 from japan. It seems as though they ALSO came with a 30 spline as well. However, it is not the V lsd. It is supposedly a two way LSD!!! Dont take this as fact as I am still researching. There are two on Ebay right now, that have the six bolt equally spaced input shafts (not the 6 bolt tripod). As far as I know, anything that has that 6 bolt equally spaced input shaft comes with a 30 spline. So far, these seem to be coming on nissan's 300+hp vehicles. R33 V-spec only, 300zx twin turbo, Infinity Q45.

Ok, Went ahead and punched out the center washer in the viscous coupling. This was supposed to allow me to be able to slide the longer input shaft all the way through the viscous coupling, eliminating it from spinning all together. Well things didn't work out like I was hoping and here is why. In this first pic you can see the area in which I am measuring. Take note of how big that area is on the longer shaft in the second pic. Here you can see that part is longer. About 7mm longer. That ledge there hits the bearing and will not allow it to slid in all the way. If I wanted to slide it in all the way, I would have to have that part milled back about 7mm. But even then, there is a chance that the shafts splines would bottom out on the splines in the viscous coupling. I would have to go and extend those as well. Way to much work involved. So, I decided to stick with my first idea of drilling the splined section of the viscous coupling where it meets the race for the pinion gears. The two sections will share a hole. The hole will then have a drill bit, or some other hardened steel shaft slid into it, and tack welded into place to keep it from coming out. I dont want to fully weld the piece in there because that will change the heat strength of the bit that I slide in. I originally did not want to do this because I thought it would be to weak. I have since thought about it further and decided that it only has to hold the wheels together, it doesn't have to hold massive amounts of torque. The input shafts hold the torque. So I figure 3 or 4 pins should be PLENTY to keep the viscous coupling from even thinking about moving. Even though nobody really seems to be interested, I will still post up more pics as I get further along here in the next few days. Maybe someone will come along one day and need to know this information.

They should be damn near identical if you got it out of a normally aspirated z32. They are both 29 spline.

There is a reason Nissan made two different blocks for the 3.0 and the 3.3. The water passages are moved outward for the additional .3 liters. This is not a guess, it is a fact. Can you take the 3.0 out to a 3.3? Probably. Will it be very strong? Probably not.