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tooquick260

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Posts posted by tooquick260

    Steering Alignment issue when turning

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Well what I think is the top bearings in the body rubber grommets are not working properly. Is you have the car up in the air the suspension travels as it should. No feel of binding and nothing has slop in the suspension. 

     

    So, when you drive the car and turn is when you feel the binding or resistance in the steering that it will not center. Being that is the point the suspension has constant pressure for something that rotates or spins.

     

    I guess I will have to wait for 2 months till I buy my new front coilovers from Technotoy tuning. I will then address this issue. Maybe if I am feeling full of energy I will dive into it one of these weekends

    VW Bay Window Bus - Subaru Powered

    in Other vehicles

    Posted · Edited by tooquick260

    Great progress. Seen a guy do that with a karmann Ghia. 300 hp in a 2500 lb car is a lot of fun.

     

    With the bay window bus should be a great cruiser!!

     

     

    Here is cool cruiser....

     

    Bus051.jpg

     

     

    This has 4 wheel disc brakes. Porsche Fuch wheels. Running a 2332 cc motor with fuel injection. Transmission is from a bug but has the Gene Berg 5 speed kit! He had a 3.44 rear diff in the tranny with a .89 5th gear. Cruises at 80 mph all day long at 2600 rpm.

     

    Can't find the motor or interior pics. He has the interior empty in the rear just carpeted. Front seats are cool bucket seats. He competes in water skiing events. 

     

     

    The pic below shows my dads yellow 73 has 2165cc dyno'd at 188 hp before the nitrous. Black car a 1952 Split window bug is the bus guys other car. Running the same exact setup as the bus motor wise. He dyno'd the bug at 170hp. The buggy is running a 2007 with a T4 turbo fueled by a single barrel mukuni carb. He put down 190hp.

     

    hensericmeloyello-1.jpg

    Steering Alignment issue when turning

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I just replaced the rack n pinion bushings today.Was told that was the issue with steering issues.

     

    What it does is.... if you take a turn at slow speeds the car will act like it is out of alignment. Car will continue pulling for a period of time If you turn the other way slow speed it will correct. But going straight it will take a while for the steering to re-align.

     

     

     

    What have others done?

    Datsun 260Z Turbo S15 6 Speed TechnoToyTuning

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by tooquick260

    Ok...

     

    Going to post here to keep the build post complete.....

     

     

    Did some adjustments today.

     

    Moved the MAF as far away from turbo that was allowed. Went straight up to the radiator electric fans. I want to run the cold air in front of the radiator Another day I guess. This seems to have helped the idle and cruising in the car at steady speeds. Air/fuel is reading better on cruise as well, holding 15 to 16. At idle it seems to creep up out of scale. I have also unplugged the O2 sensor. Just trying things to see whats up.

     

    Redid wiring as in putting a fuse block in that allows to clean up some wiring. I also put both fuel pumps on a relay, still ignition on. I will have the computer start it eventually. This took a lot of juice away from the coil. Man those pumps sound happier. This may have fixed my hard start/ no start. As stated above the coil would lock up. 

     

    Dad took my brother out for a McDonald's run tonight. Bro wanted a McDouble. They messed with the boost controller, they just switched to A and B. I have the controller on off and pulls 5.6. On setting A it pulled 8.6 pounds. On setting B it should be 12 pounds. Well they got back and had a new max boost record of 16.5 pounds. They both came in with big smiles. Dad said everything happens way to quick. Specially when the only lights on are the tach. And I have red line set at 5500 rpm ,so the shift lights start coming on at 4500 rpm. They said its like a light show with that and the boost gauge and air fuel gauge flashing.

     

    They both said it still seems to be cutting out. Not as bad as it did. Maybe need to move the MAF more. 

     

    Stay tuned more little fixes to come. And body work. I will take some video this weekend driving to show how nice the six speed tranny is. Dad wants me to help him with a project he committed to for the school. Installing and hanging a new metal door for the locker room. Oh boy. Maybe film the drive to the school. 

    Z31 ecu install Hard/no start after shut off

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Got some of the above done today...... Man you try to run around and pick up parts and peaces and the day flys by.

     

     

    So I rewired some things. I had 5 things running off the positive leg of the starter,, they were fused but looked bad. So I bought a 6 leg fuse terminal using the newer gm style fuses. Made an aluminum plate and bolted to where the seat belt start interupt button was at.  I  will post pics later. 

     

    I also ran both fuel pumps ( i have a low pressure and high pressure with a surge tank) off of a fuel pressure relay. Yes I know the z31 ecu can trigger this. That will be done when I know that I have all other issues figured out. (want to hook the reverse lights up to the 6 speed sender as well.) Man those pumps have never been that happy.

     

    Also moved the AFM to about 9 inches away from the turbo. That took as long as the wiring did. When I moved it that far away I needed a bracket to hold the end of the air cleaner because it was sagging and would of eventually fall off.

     

    So first attempt of starting and driving with these small changes......

     

    • Started right up.... but had the battery unplugged as well as the ecu during the wiring redo.
    • Smoother acceleration
    • The air/fuel readings where more consistant on cruising and idling
    • Exhaust note was deeper
    • Did not stall randomly,,,, tried a few blasts in 2nd and 3rd and then stick the clutch in lifting off the gas pedal, did not stall. it did a little hickup when it fell below the 1000 rpm but came back to an idle. Before it would just die.

     

    Will be driving it a lot this weekend and see what else pops up. Things I will be looking at and working on.

     

    1. Helping my dad and brother putting subframe bushings in the z31
    2. Figuring out the clunk in my rear suspensin,, happens on accel and sudden decel
    3. Eliminate the gas fumes or at least reduce the amount getting in the cabin
    4. Put a plan together for the brakes. They work great but in a panic you easily lock up the front brakes.
    5. Clean up the wiring with cased tubes, zip ties and electrical tape
    6. Have to fix the no dash lights/ wipers. Night time driving with only a tach light is cool but would like to see the speedo.

     

    Stopped a local non Datsun shop

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Local Orlando air cooled VW shop that has been there since 1973. Dad worked there from 1979 til 1982. Lots of cool stuff comes and goes. Here are a few pics i took.

     

     

    First is a 1970 beetle that was customized for a local radio celebrity. He had the shop hop it up enough to be a fun driver but reliable. He drove it for a few years and let it get in a little neglected state. He sold it back to the shop owner.

     

    20131024_150240_zpsb7c763e7.jpg

    20131024_150231_zps77ab713c.jpg

     

     

     

    This I am told is a car setup from the 70's. Dad said he even drove this back then. Has had many variations of motors. Currently running a 2 litre with a/c, its fast and it has modern comforts. Heated seats, real leather seats and much more. All under original paint. It is a 1966. 

     

     

     

    e7291f5c-007b-4410-a632-81b4c40a2cd0_zps

    20131024_150411_zpsbed17c30.jpg

     

    20131024_150353_zps824a6957.jpg

     

     

     

    Here is a pic of a 73 beetle with almost 600,000 miles. Owner of the shop uses as his daily. On its 3rd paint job. Drives this car all over the southeast. Has a/c as well. A/c is a custom job install job. Owner is working on the dual carbs. Said weather change messed with the idle settings.

     

    20131024_150300_zps0b5e0ecd.jpg

     

    20131024_150439_zps93e6c60f.jpg

     

     

    These are real drivers no trophy cars and not trailer queens. Owner operator does not own a water cooled car. Cool to see and meet people dad hung with 35 years ago!

    Z31 ecu install Hard/no start after shut off

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Yes it is mail order... and I understand. The tune is pretty close. Martin at Z Fever is willing to do a final tune as soon as I have all the issues/bugs worked out. 

     

    So are you saying to move the maf after the turbo in front of the throttle body? Or just move it out length wise past the throttle body?

     

    The tuner told me to try a few things......

    1. get a msd blaster ss coil

    2. unplug the O2 sensor

    3. Unplug the memory power button to the ecu

     

    I will try that tomorrow to see it works.

    Z31 ecu install Hard/no start after shut off

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Since no response now this is my plans.......

     

    move maf at least 8 inches and have the filter in front of the intercooler.

     

    Going to wire the fuel pump to the ecu through the relay like factory. 

     

    Move the maf and O2 sensor wires to there own source for power.

     

    Looking at the 88 300 z31 wire diagram to see if there is a transistor inline for the ecu signal, maybe it reduces voltage to the coil.

    Z31 ecu install Hard/no start after shut off

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Ok posting here for more exposure....

     

     

    I have completed the z31 ecu install. If you havent followed this is what I have.

     

    L26 bottom end

    P90 head

    Schneiders hot cam

    83 turbo t/3-4, 

    83 wiring harness

    If it matters, i am using the 74 datsun balast resistor for ignition on outlets.

    Which I have powering O2 sensor, MAF, low pressure fuel pump and high pressure fuel pump, and coil.

    240sx throttle body

    AEM tru-boost controller

    AEM Air/Fuel gauge

    88 Z31 turbo ecu tuned by ECUtuning

    500cc high impedence injectors

     

    This is the issue:

     

    Car will start and run. I can drive the car feels real strong still on low boost. But, if I drive the car for extended periods of time it seems to run worse. As in, the air fuel when cruising starts out reading great.... 15.2 to 16.1. At traffic lights the  a/f will go up and out of the realm of the gauge reading 18+. On some occasions when going to stop, I lift off accelerator and stick the clutch in the car will stall. I can either let the clutch out and jump start or restart the car(sometimes it will not unless i unplug everthing as stated above.)So, when i stop and turn the car off it will either not start as in no ignition, or have a struggle turning over like the battery is dead and/or strong current draw on electical system. 

     

    Other issue is when driving if I lift off accelerator and stick the clutch in the car will stall like coming up to light. It does not do it all the time but is annoying. Seems to be during more spirited driving on off gas quickly. I can either let the clutch out and jump start or restart the car(sometimes it will not unless i unplug everthing as stated above.)

     

    If I then unplug the ecu connectors, all three, and unplug the 2 wires to the ignitor. Re-plug them all in the car will start and run fine. 

     

    Any suggestions? Any ideas? Anyone experienced this? I know it is either self inflicted or the ecu is bad.

    Datsun 260Z Turbo S15 6 Speed TechnoToyTuning

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    So, after driving the car for 3 days,,, Love the boost and much better ignition with spark gaps down to .27. I have not upped the boost on it though. When I am driving the car it seems run poorer the longer I drive it. The air/fuel reading on cruising goes up to 17+ then 18 and then the gauge goes dead liine like out of scale. If I roll into the gas I can get it come back into a reading. Full throttle will drop it down to 11 to 13 a/f reading.

     

    Another major issue is that when I turn the car off and try to restart it acts like it has a dead battery. Large drain on electrical system. But, if I disconnect the computer and the ignitor wires. Then replug them in it will start back up. Something is locking on either ignition system or the computer. I am going to post in the ems secion to see if anyone can chime in on this issue.

    Datsun 260Z Turbo S15 6 Speed TechnoToyTuning

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by tooquick260

    Ok,,, Lets get caught up on the progress of the car. 

     

     

    Another birthday present that I got was from mom and dad. Nice center console cup/storage holder. This thing is awesome. Also took the furry mammoth seat covers off. Bought these at Pep Boys for $19 picked up some 2" and 5" foam from the hobby store. The factory seat covers were wasted. So, I cut up the foam and contoured the seats as best as possible. Gave me some side support in cornering. I know no professional but hey for Less than $50 it works for me.

     

    20131023_104004_zpskdjjrdys.jpg

     

    Onto the computer issues I have had. All of it was self inflicted. Hopefully someone can learn from my mistakes. First When I did the 83 ecu//turbo install it all worked out great once I found the VACUUM leak. Then had a driveability problem that I did not fix until today.

     

     

    Seems that I had the spark plug gap to wide. Had it at .42 lowered to .27 and wala no more ignition failure when in upper rpms.  I may even drop it more, was told you can go as low as .15 on turbo.

     

     

    During the whole ignition problem I knew that I wanted more power and decided to go with the z31 ecu install. I picked up a really nice 88 turbo ecu from a member on here at a great price. I ordered 500cc injectors and wanted to switch to a Z32 maf. So needed a tune for the z31 ecu to run the larger injectors and different maf. After research decided to go with a tuner that advertises on ebay and has a shop in California. Sent him the first ecu and for $220 he installed the rom chip that is tuneable, tuned for larger injectors and better mapping, removed the resistors to drop the voltage reading 2-7ohms to 0-5 for the maf. Real simple. (Yes could have done megasquirt for about $400, I know.......which is what I have in this journey with shipping.)

     

    So installed the Maf, injectors with new connectors and wired the ecu in per all the information on the web. You can read about that in the posts above with issues can you say burnt. He sent me another ecu and it was toast on arrival.

     

    Sent both ecu's back and neither were fixable. I found another 88 turbo ecu, sent it to Jason at Nismovictor, ecu tuning in california. Now Jason has been doing all these other ecu's pretty much free of charge to fix my problem. He rom chipped the third ecu, ( I had an 86 turbo ECU that he is tuning as well), got this one back and plugged it in. Wala starts right up sounds good. Take it for a ride and again the best it has run. Drove it 2 more times, then decided to take dad to lunch. We make it to a local performance shop. Stop and talk to the owner for about 30 minutes. Get back in the car and it will not start. Determine it has no spark. No power to the coil or ignitor via test light.

     

    Trailered it home, diagnose that the coil/ignitor/ ecu signal was locked either grounded or on. Drained the battery etc. Only way we figured it out was by unplugging the ecu with the ign on and heard a loud click. Replugged the ecu in and now had power. Started car and ran terrible. Like the maf was not working. So, tested the maf harness had no power to the maf. Traced the wire back and it had pulled out of the butt connector at the terminal post where it gets power. Fixed that and wala it started. 

     

     

     

     

    Onto body work soon. Removed the bumpers. Picked up some fenders and front spoiler.

    20131023_111948_zpsg7lj14he.jpg20131023_112035_zpskfqnuy47.jpg

     

    I purchased some 240sx front turn signals to go in there. Just will have to figure some sort of front grill.... Maybe bigger intercooler.

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