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tooquick260

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Posts posted by tooquick260

  1. Wow sorry about your struggles. Didn't see or read about this issue. I don't know how I missed that. Glad you got it figured out.

     

     

    I was on a big downward spiral with my z31 ecu install. All self inflicted. I am driving everyday now.

     

    Running the 500cc inj, Z32 maf 8lbs boost daily and flip the switch for 12lbs when I want now that the couplers are staying on.

     

    Planning body work.

  2. Checking over the car while I re-connected the other coupler, I found eshaust nuts loose. I retightened them as well as the 4 bolts on the turbo down pipe. I will have to keep an eye on those. They were loose the 3rd day I ran the car back 6 months ago. I will get under the car this weeked and check the ones on the underside of my heat shield. 

     

     

    I now have both front turn signals form a 70-73 240z with wire harness. This along will my front spoiler that I have will be installed this weekend. Pictures to follow.

     

     

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  3. I did a search on car-parts.com

     

    Found a pic n pay and they pulled the cylinder head off of the car me and shipped it. Head was $50 and $40 shipping. As long as the head has not dropped a valve you should be ok.

     

    You probably will do new seats, guides, valves etc. New fly cut on the head you are ready to go!

  4. Suggestion since planning to redo the head... buy another head. have that one rebuilt and then you could do the swap over the weekend and have less down time. I bought a P90 head for Cheap, had new valves, cleaned up port work and new regrind cam.

  5. Can you try to leave that gap on 4 a little larger than the rest.

     

    I know my dad played with gap a lot running nitrous on his air cooled beetle. Something with compression checking and adjusting the shot and setting the spark gap. Now thats custom tuning stuff there. His wet system for nitrous could change the jet for the fuel or gas. Played with that and would alter size on each cylinder specially if one showed signs of leaking seats or rings. 

  6. Car is much better. Will start 90% of the time. Is a little cold natured but can live with that. ONly issue is sometimes it will not fire. Have to unplug the 3 connections to the ecu and the 2 wires to the ignitor. This seems to relieve the draw from the battery. I then switch key to start to make sure the motor turns over freely. Once that is done replug all wires back in and wala car starts.

     

    What gives. I am going to disconnect the battery memory line to the ecu and see it that is it.

  7. Putting more miles on the car. Went to replace the rubber grommet bushings  in the steering rack. Removed the used ones that were in real good shape. The ones that I got from zstore where the wrong ones, one was correct passenger but the drivers side was not. 

     

    Since the rubber grommets were in good shape I reinstalled the used ones. The car only has 80,000 miles on it. I was hoping this would fix the non centering steering problem. Did not help, because I did not change anything. 

     

    Rebekahz told me to adjust the rack, loosen. I did that and it helped a little. I am going to loosen another 5 degrees and see what happens.

     

    The only other thing it could be is the top bearing in the front struts.

     

    The car runs great, still getting a ruff cruise, blurble a/f not happy a certain times if idling in 4th,5th 6th at less than 2100 rpm. If I go above 2500 seems to be happy. I am sure it is the mail order tune on the z31 ecu.

     

    Other issue with starting the car is hit or miss. More miss now. I drove for about 50 miles and 10-12 starts with no problems. Then it will act like the battery is dying. If I unplug the ignitor trigger and coil wire, plus the connectors into the ecu. Then try cranking the car and it cranks like you have a new batter. Replug everything and wala it starts.

  8. I removed the old bushings yesterday. They were in real good shape. Of course the ones that I got new from zcar store did not look like the ones I took off. So since they are in real good shape I put them back on. The car only has 80000 miles on it.  The new ones both looked the same. Where as the ones on the car that I took off where 2 different sizes. One side has a larger hole different thickness.

     

     

    Today I did loosen the adjustment on the rack. I did tighten first to see how tight. Per the FSM it says snug and then back off 20-25 degrees. Mine was maybe 10 degrees to snug. So backed off to what I think is 25 degrees. Went for a drive about 20 miles and 45 minutes in traffic. Seems a little better. 

     

    So i it is too loose it will clunk. Wander if I can back off another 5-10 degrees?

  9. Thanks for the light replacement link. We got the headlights to work. Just dealing with the lights going up and down. Have them permanently up now.

     

     

    Great info on the hvac system. Car is a GL with manual a/c stuff. So will check the plastic lines and the vacuum tank for leaks. Car was already converted to r134a in 2005, sticker on the from core support.

     

    What did you do for rear suspension on your v8 swap in the z31?

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