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pat1

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Posts posted by pat1

  1. They said roughly 10 grand. Includes motor, tranny wiring, install, exhaust, radiator, fmic, r200 rear end. Pretty much a complete install.

     

     

     

    for the above it seems high. I work on cars for a living and I do this stuff everyday. I wish you were closer I would give you a much better price. Did the shop give you a break down on parts and labor? Get it in writing before you do anything.

  2. The parts for the rb20's are getting alot easier to find you just have to know where to look. Alot of the parts on a rb20 come from different nissan engines that are available at the local auto parts store down the street. I have not had one problem finding any parts for my rb20. The rb20 is cheaper and a easier swap for the budget minded swapper than the rb25. I know of two places local that have the rb20's in stock with everything you need for 1000.00-1200.00. The same places have the rb25's in stock also for 1800.00-2300.00. With the rb20's you don't need the high dollar motor mounts or a custom driveshaft. that saves what around 800.00 easy. Now if you want to run nistune with the rb25's you have to get a rb20 or z32 ecu and that's more money. With the rb20 the nistune was easy no other ecu's to buy. I guess it's all about the power you want. I have seen a 240sx with a rb20 on the dyno putting out very close to 400 hp on stock internals. 400hp in a datsun z is nuts for a street car. When I started my swap I wanted at the most 300-350hp and drive it everyday wuth no problems on a low budget.( I have other toys to spend money on LOL) 300hp in a 2200-2400lbs z car is hauling a$$, thats what high 11's to low to mid 12's. I'm not trying to argue with anyone but all the negitive stuff about the rb20's is probably turning some people away from this swap. Not everybody has tons of money to buy the best of the best.

  3. I don't get the attitude towards the rb20. It's like the red headed step child that nobody wants. People with the rb20 need to chime in and let all these rb20 HATERS know that is a very good motor with alot of protential. Bottom line the rb20 can produce very good hp numbers with little money.

  4. there is a guy on nicoclub.com named Carlh that knows the answer to your question. I remember searching and searching for the same answer. I gave up and used a n62 out of a 300zxtt and then the next day found the answer. I forgot but I think it will work but I think there is a few different n60 afm's out there. I think it depends on the color of the tag on the n60 afm. There is a green,blue and a pink tag.

  5. Sorry,I thought you need a 4 wire o2 sensor. I used a nissan 300zxtt o2 sensor in my rb, It's a 3 wire. the connector is the same. I had to get emissions done on my 300zx and one o2 was working very slow. I grab one of my o2 sensor out of my rb and put it in my 300zx, It worked like a charm. Alot of the sensors interchange with other nissans.

  6. Did you hook up the start signal wire from PCM to the factory datsun starter signal. Look at my post rb20 wiring in this rb section I know I covered it. If that is not hooked up the ecu can't tell the iac valve to idle up on cold start. Also check your airflow meter wiring and voltage output. Also check your cas also

  7. I've noticed since the ZR200 rear sump oil pan went NLA that most of the forums I've been on that used it have slowed down considerably as that has become the biggest hurdle for "low budget swaps" the RB25 prices have also plummeted here locally due to that very fact a few months ago they were going for $2,500+ and are now down below $1,400, because the "custom" oil pans add so much more to the total cost of the swap. Just a personal observation.

     

     

    I have been building custom pans for several months now. I have a few versions available now from 250.00-575.00.

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