240hoke

Its a Z and G club. Nobody in the club has a nice s130 or z31 so there are none in the pictures

Hey Guys, A member of my local Z club, Carolina Z, has put together a nice calender, the little profit there is goes to the club. Thought some of you guys here might be interested, its put together nice and has a good mix of cars all from club events...september is the best though http://www.cafepress.com/CarolinaZ.425356470 Thanks! -Austin Hoke

You should check out the train industry, they are pushing hard right now and have hired several people from my class. Northrop Grumman also hires ALOT of people every year. These are really the only two companies that I heard really hiring people at my school...unless you had worked for them previously. I would go for it and try to find a job. A masters would be great but after talking with alot of people decided its wasnt right for me...I wanted to jump in and get practical experience. You can get in trouble with a masters and do research on something that you will frankly never use unless you stay on the research route. In addition to this almost everybody that cant get a job is getting their masters lol. I may get my MBA later in life after I have more experience depending on where I want to go with things. I was able to find my dream job, but I left school with a 1 year co-op with a robotics company and an internship where I ultimatly got a job. I also had a very high GPA.

I personally think the car is sitting perfect! It sure does look good. I had mine that low most of the time I drove it with the L6. Had to raise it up a bit for clearance with the VQ...regretfully. I dont think being that low is going to affect the ride as much as you think unless you are slamming hte bumpstops all the time....and with sectioned struts you really shouldnt be.

Man those Scott wires are SEXY. Nothing like some cup motor parts on a L6 I just zipp tied them together on my setup, you can really get them streamlined and out of hte way: http://gallery.voodoo-people.com/albums/album915/verticle_IC_018.sized.jpg

I believe Jon has hit it spot on, I have the exact same issue with mine. I am running GC's with sectioned struts and I took alot of care in aligning them properly. Ive never noticed the rubbing will driving and it really doesn't affect the functionality. Ill replace the sleeves whenever I install camber plates but until then everything works fine. As a side note I am running 250/275 10" springs with tokico illuminas and the car is real comfortable. Its stiff but not harsh at all.

There is also a tool that you can buy from Matco that draws a vaccum on the engine. You can check for leaks and then suck coolant into the engine, completely fills the engine on the first try with no air pockets. They are a little pricey at around 300 bucks but they work awesome. I had to use one with my VQ.

Lol, my videos are about as long as my attention span. I could just save the video and retitle it since there aren't any close ups we can call it mine Well minus the whole japan thing. Maybe Ill see what I can do. Ive been thinking about a big-phil style walk around. I cant do the whole film, drive, and narrate thing without dying.

Very Nice! I love the look of those, updated and functional without too much flash.

I ran aftermarket gauges in my car because I wanted more gauges and more accuracy then stock could provide. I like all the gauges to match and there are so many good options out there that are more suitible for a highperformacne build. Check out KTM's post today, these things look great: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1101233#post1101233 If I was doing a 'stock looking' build in the future I would pull all the stock gauge guts out and place new traditional style gauges in the housings. I was suggesting that you switch to a 260z or 280z tach...I *think* I have 2 or 3 in the shop if you want one. I just read though that you already have an adapter, so might as well use it, but im still a fan of the less extra junk the better.

I think i would swap tach before I bought a tach adapter, since tach are about 5 bucks and easy to change out. That way you wont have to worry about it later and its one less electronic thing you have to put on your car.

Hurm, I can say that I have used the SDS output with a factory 1974 260z tach and a 1976 280z tach. The 280z in the above install had the factory tach and it worked perfect. Id love to come up and help, I dont think im allowed to travel farther north though at this time of the year. I might freeze.

I would seriously consider ditching every single crimped on connector like this in your wiring. They will cause pain at some point or another, whether they work loose will driving or rip off the next time you replace the relay. Ignore me if this is just your mocked I just had to point it out. I highly recommend these mounting blocks (same as ones on my install on the previous post): http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...Y%20CONNECTOR/ You can mount them securely to the car and then easily remove and reinstall the relay with no issue. They can stack to make block which Keeps the wiring clean and reliable. You can also get a good soldered connector on the spades.

I did a SDS install a few months ago in a friends car and just went through some of the things you did. I found that it was convenient to trace the tach signal wire to the Dash connector, I then depinned the harness side and slide the sds single into it with a new spade. This gave a clean install and left all the wiring like stock. He however did not have the original engine harness, if he had you could do as mentioned and just cut the factory signal wire to length. I HIGHLY suggest just removing the dash to do the wiring job. It only take an hour or so and allows a MUCH MUCH cleaner install. You can easily get to the back of the gauges and run all the wires in with the factory loom. It also makes mounting and running the rest of the EMS wiring through the firewall much easier. IMO if you install any aftermarket wiring without the dash removed you can get a rats nest really really quick and it will be aggravating if the wires and electronics get in the way and you cant remove the dash. I dont mean to thread jack but here are a few pictures of the Fuse box setup and wiring that I did. It uses key switched power from the dash to flip a relay and pull power from the battery. Its all easy to remove with connectors and does not interfere with factory wiring. We used a PLC wideband gauge and ran the output directly to the SDS, everything worked like a charm (on the wiring side anyway). (pay no attention to the red hose covers I personally removed them before his car left the garage!!) Ecu Mounting, nutserts used on drivers kick panel with all wires going though factory hole in firewall. Power wires meet the harness with a connector coming through a factory hole in the passenger side:

Hey, The problem is I dont have a copy or anything of that website. it was built through geocities on their little webbuilder. I would love to repost but just dont have the material. I do have all the pictures though. Maybe I will have the time in the near future to rewrite the information and post it on my google pages. However the same thing can happen there. I guess one of these days Ill actually have to break down and figure out how to make a real website! Until then feel free to PM or email me with any specific questions you have.

Haha, I'm impresssed somebody noticed! I just noticed it a couple days ago. I wish I knew more about webpages so I could just build them on my computer and host them, but I always use these silly page builders. Im a little scared my current site will get wiped out in the same way. I still have all my build photos so it would be nice ot make one large site. Ill prolly wait till I build another car though, this time Ill build it right the first time

tires all mounted up...they are a good bit taller then the last ones. Had to trim the air dam and zg's a bit more in the front to clear when turning. BFG G-force Sports F 245/50/zr16 R 255/50/zr16

Good news! Nothing is wrong with the transmission.....got hte car jacked up and when i got under it I found a shifter bracket bolt had backed out and was causing interference. A little locktite and a tightening and she will be back on the road! It was a total coincidence that it happened when Gabe took it down the strip! Thats the way thing happen I reckon.

Why do people thing that 4 lugs are not strong enough? Everytime this gets posted I am always baffled. I don't think the studs are the weak point here, there are lots more failure points along the line before your studs. The only reason I see to go to a 5 is to get better wheel choice, maybe thats just me

DEFINITION OF UTILITY 4 Crated Z32 Transmissions 2 XR650R's Two Guys and gear for a weekend. Just put a hitch on a fun RWD car, buy a new utility trailer for 600 bucks and call it a day:

Wrong Section, ask a mod to move it to Drivetrain and youll get much better replies....and no its not a direct bolt on its a viscous short nose r200.

My old 260z.... I love white cars...that last one with the white zg's is SICK.

Nice Video, and once again, congrats on the 11's. At least somebody can take my motor there It was really good seeing you guys again, Im looking forward to Zdayz! ps. Already ordered new tires lol.

I think you should buy new tube!