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240hoke

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Everything posted by 240hoke

  1. Dude I seriously just laughed out loud....thats bad lol
  2. To make it really work properly you need to constraint all DOF's at the strut tower joint. The width adjustment could be provided by a turn buckle in the center. What you have drawn and what most bars do is still allow the struts towers to flex side to side I think this is what jon was getting at...but anyway here is a perfect example: Several other questions maybe I missed something obvious: why are there 6 bolt holes? Going straight across like that will NOT clear any L series motor.
  3. Thanks a lot guys. I am really excited and feel lucky to even have a job lined up right now. A lot of my friends graduating with mechanical engineering degrees are having a hard time getting jobs..much less ones that they enjoy. In todays market it pays to have good work ethic and get good grades. Racing is an an interesting place now too, some sponsors are drying up and teams have less money while at the same time things are getting A LOT more technically advanced in the Cup World. Garvice - They are very competitive, especially in this job market, and most teams have excellent benifits as well. It is a lot of work though, everybody there is dedicated to their job and put in many more then 40 hours a week.
  4. In NC if you get a ticket for 9+ over then your insurance goes up ALOT for three years. So its always best to pay the money for lawyer and get it dropped. I also suggest a Valentine One
  5. Hey Guys, Today was a big day for me, I just signed the contract for my dream job. Ive been interning at Penske Racing for the summer and Have had a wonderful time, it has been a lot of work but it has been interesting and rewarding. I have one semester of school left and I have a contract to start working at Penske Racing as a Design Engineer in January. For those of you that don't know Penske is a first class racing organization and one of the most successful in history. The racing facility that I work at is over 500,000 square feet and houses all of the Penske racing team; this includes 3 cup teams, 1 nation wide, 1 ARCA, 3 IRL, and 2 Pan Am. I can finally say that my long nights in the shop working on my car, and the long nights studying in school have paid off. http://www.penskeracing.com
  6. I love mine. No more messing around with pumping the brakes, no need to keep filling the reservoir, no need for two people, easy to completely flush the system. Pour your new fluid in, pump it up and then start opening bleeder valves. Works like a charm.
  7. Getting the factory NATS system to work is not all that hard. They even make an entire book about it: The factory nissan service manual....it has detailed information and schematics on everything in the entire car. You can download it for free. I would suggest doing that and taking a look at the power distribution section
  8. IF you can figure out how to trick the ECU into seeing the nats signal or not needing it then yes you could remove the BCM. You dont need anything except the following stuff to make the engine run IF you can figure out how to get rid of the nats: ECU, Engine Harness, Diagnostics Port, Electronic Throttle. Having a Diag Port is MANDATORY regaurdless. You engine will obviously run without it but good luck trying to figure out any problems you might have lol. If you want to buy my car money talks
  9. The BCM is what powers the nats and routes the signal to the ECU. It is required if you want to run the NATS system. The IPDM is not required for anything.
  10. Wiring in the appropriate wires for the dash harness would be easy. In fact you could probably just cut the body connector off and put new connectors on there to mate up to the DBW pedal, nats, and diagnostic port. I would prolly do that if i do mine again. The three connectors extending off the page to the top near your ecu are all your power connectors basically. I think they just figured out how to make the ecu run without the bcm, which shouldn't change how it runs, just weather it runs or not.
  11. I reckon you're not to good with algebra.
  12. looking for the adapeter and shift braket and alot some tips.. have an old skyline.. need loads of advice

  13. To me it just needs one word: LUNCH. Sorry but that 240z looks like its about to be eaten alive, very cool pic though.
  14. Thanks for the compliment JSal, Ill chime in here on cost.... I paid $3800 two years ago for the following: - 2004 350z Engine with 300-400 miles on it - All the electronics from the car (ecu, bcm, dash harness, engine harness, nats amp, and ignition switch) - 6 spd transmission - Driveshaft I have roughly 7K in my swap when all said and done. But I spent big bucks on my fuel system and exhaust and didnt really skimp anywhere I dont feel...and I still need to drop in a real fuel cell because Ive having serious fuel issues below 1/4 tank. So tag on another 800 or so. I think it is really nice to buy the engine setup as a package from the same car because you dont have to hunt for parts and get nickel and dimed to deep as late model parts are expensive. It would be worth it to me to pay the extra money and find a complete drop out with accessories. That being said though you can find engine for really cheap and piece everything together but it will require a lot more work and research. Electronic parts are EXPENSIVE if bought bit by bit from the junk yard.
  15. Wish I had the money, that is a sweeeet setup.
  16. Hey Phar, Thanks a look at this page: http://www.vq240z.com-a.googlepages.com/mockup Scroll down and you will see why I didnt run the a/c, is leaving it on was my original plan. You will have to get pretty creative it you decide to keep it as it severely interferes with the steering.
  17. That thing is beautiful I love how you have kept everything bascially stock looking and man that is a clean engine install! LOVE every bit of it!!!
  18. Will you be machining any more transmition adapeters? If not, any chance you would give me the CMM data or the SW file and I could machine myself my own? Or maybe even machine some more for the members?

    Please let me know,

    Thanks.

  19. They use these all the time on new cars....prettty trick becausethey can be completely adjustable depending on your speed or whatever you want if you have the right controller. I am really interested in a setup...just doesnt seem to be much good info them...I would love to see a writeup or a test from somebody with personal experience. That guy should seriously go buy some electrical tape, loom, and zip ties.
  20. Haha, I had power before. Im honeslty enjoying the motor how it is. I think i'm going to focus on other things like getting the suspension sorted out how I want it finishing up the interior real nice etc etc. Im been driving my 240z alot lately and I have been loving it, just no a/c is getting a little brutal since its been in the 90's recently. Future to do list before I add power: - Wilwood Front Brakes - Adjustable Rear control arms - Fuel Cell w/ Baffles and in tank pump (Fuel safe probably) - Engine mount cross member - Aero Work Maybe - Front chassis brace (triangulated strut tower bars maybe Engine mods: -UTEC - NAWWWWWZZZZ ? maybe maybe
  21. I have to mirror what Jon said, Im currently working at Penske Racing as an engineering intern and what they do to get max performance within the rules is pretty dern cool. Im looking forward to the road course race this weekend as well, they are moving pretty good.
  22. Yup, take the four factory bolts out...use two for the top and one for the shackle. I went over it in post #59
  23. 240hoke

    Corbeau A4

    I stand corrected on the sold individually...just most places I have scene them only offer pairs.. I have sat in the CR-1's and they are WAY more comfortable then my A4's are. They show an A4 wide on their website though.
  24. Grim: So far I am happy with the car...its no drag car, and she wont do rolling burnouts at 80 but she is plenty of fun. I honestly think its a great match for the car, its got gobs of torque down low and moves out good. PETEW, rturbo: I think If I slowed down a little and kept it around 70 mph I would get even better fuel economy, I was driving about that speed on the way to school and I think I got like 28-29. That could be optimistic though....I didnt check the mpg until I drove it around town to the show, and gave people some rides. It got 26 in the "mixed" scenario. HowlerMonkey: NO safety net, all I brought was a multimeter, OBDII Scanner, and a 10,12, and 14mm wrench. Pharaohabq: I did have a transmission mount bolt fall out after zdayz lol....It was caught in the crossmemeber so I just put it back in. Other then that so far so good, the cantilevered engine mounts kinda bother me...but so far they are holding up great. Heat really wasnt bad, but it was 80-90 out anyway so I was cruising with the windows down the VQ certainly burns a lot cleaner then my L28 did thats for sure. The second resonator in the exhaust was wonderful; while cruising I could hardly hear the exhaust, no drone. Its still loud when I get on it though and thats one thing I wish I would have changed....I wanna be able to romp on it all the way to redline without drawing attention. Anyway Im still hung up with starting my new job so I gotta get back to studying and stuff...hopefully I get time to upload some pictures tomarrow. It was my first day as a Engineering Intern at Penske Racing today
  25. Hey Guys, I just took the car on a trip up to school and went to the Triangle Z Club B-Z-Q and car show. All total it was a 500 mile round trip and the car preformed flawlessly. Needless to say I was pretty happy with everything...finally felt nice to be able to go for a long cruise. Most of the driving was on the interstate, traveling at an average of 75 mph I got around 27 mpg. Im pretty busy tonight but Ill post so pictures from the show tomorrow, its was a pretty fun time and I even took home a peoples choice award w00t.
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