240hoke

Corbeau's are only sold in pairs. A4's are pretty tight in hte shoulder so unless your a skinny narrow shouldered guy you might want to look for a different seat.

I think that looks pretty slick. I like the outside half circle photoshop though.

Yes Sir

IMO you should look at a isolator kit if you really want to stay mechanical. There is basically a diaphram that transfers the pressure to antifreeze and that goes to the gauge. Some about pressurized fuel in the cabin I dont like Personally I would pay the money and go electric if you feel its that nessecary.

I plan on being there.

Hey Guys, Thanks again for all the compliments. Ive been realy busy lately (In a good way ) with Zdayz and a trip to florida, which I cut short for a job interview w00t. So I havent had a chance to reply any. Dave - Yes thats it, I plan on remounting the splitter in some form but I have yet to decide what to do. I need to make a skid plate for the motor or figure out something there and try and maybe tie it in with the splitter. I have raised the ride height of my car up and the lowest point is the oil pan with 3" of clearence. Pete - I couldnt believe that I won both those prizes I cant wait to get out there...prolly will be in my 350z though. Thanks for the props on the car Mark - The diff is working out well, It has started to whine a little again, but it is not bad at all. I did however set it up WAY to tight. I will be removing all but maybe one shim from the cluch pack for the type of driving that I do. I was skipping all over the place at the Dragon. Come up any time. I should have alot more stuff sorted out and everything ready in a couple weeks. And speaking of that Zdayz was incredible again as always. Just a great Z event all around. We need to get some more first gen representation out there though!!! There were only a handfull of S30's and a bazillion 350z's. My car did great though and I really enjoyed driving it, it also got a lot of attention at the car show. It proved to be a good shake down and I have a few more little things Im working on and she will be ready to go. Here are a couple pictures:

Hey Guys, Ive seen a lot of talk about the honda wiper motor recently. IMO the Z motor is as good or BETTER just by looking at the size and the quality of the build. I have both and have taken them apart and compared them side by side. Just recently I got my windshield wipers working VERY well. The stock motor I had would barely move the windshield wipers and even off the car hooked to power it was very labored. I started taking the motor apart and found everything to be in great working order, the brushes were good, the windings looked great. The problem was the wiper drive shaft that goes through the housing. It was so corroded and gunked up I couldnt move it with my hand. I knocked it out with a punch and clean it up with sandpaper and steel wool, then relubed and reassembled. Took a total of 1 hour max and the motor works like new. I will take a video as soon as I can to show you how well the wipers work. The only reason I would upgrade is to have an intermittent feature but I think the 280z's had that anyway? Just my 2 cents.

I have plenty left, shoot me a PM if you want one.

I wanted to update this thread as I figure it out and it was an easy fix. The problem WAS the idle are volume. However relearning the idle air volume was not possible using the consult due to the amount of codes thrown by the ecu....all the chassis codes, a/c, power steering, etc, etc. Anyway the fix was simple. Disconnected the battery cables, stuck them together for a minute or so discharging all the power from the ECU and viola the engine ran great. It has continued to run well and idle ever since

Weight was not really a factor in me picking the engine though. Ive been able to start putting miles on the car and I am throughly enjoying it. The car is a blast to drive and the overall feel is great. The low end torque, throttle response, and transmission feel are awesome. Its smooth and starts and runs beautifully at all times thus far

I dont think you read what I wrote. Here is what was added to the car since the first weighing that would add weight and would effect BOTH setups. Sound Deadening (At least 25lbs) Jute + Carpet Power Windows Interior Plastic Door panels Bumpers and brackets Grill 3" Driveshaft 300zx CV Axles 3/4 Tank of gas More rubber and wheels heavier battery The previous weight also included a STOCK 5spd transmission. The L28 I was running had an adapter plate and a z32 trans which adds ALOT of weight. SO in response, yes I think the weight has moved back, yes the entire car lifted up if you look. How much weigh did I drop I dont know. I dont want to IN anyway compare the two numbers because they cant be compared...for those of you trying to figure out which setup is lighter. That why I didnt post it the first time.

Well I got a chance to shake the car down on the dragon at Zdayz. I have to say I was very impressed with the car... I think it feels better then it did with the L28. S That being said though, like I mentioned previously, I think I DROPPED weight over the L28 setup I took out. I wish I would have taken the time to weigh the car before I pulled it out but not something I was thinking about. I also really want to corner weigh the car to see how the weight distribution is and then set it up. I know that the front of the car sat a good bit higher after the swap. Before: After: It kinda hard to see but in the first picture the tire is actually tucked under then fender flare a bit, after the VQ I had about a 2 finger gap. I know technical measurements.

I forgot to list power windows....but they add all of about 4 lbs (maybe). The reason I was slightly dissapointed was that the last time I weighed the car it was 2280. This was as follows: Scale: Silver Dollar Raceway (SEZ: Macon GA) - 1/4 Tank of Gas - L28et - Factory 5spd Transmission - Factory DS / Factory Half shafts - One layer of Sound deadening / No Interior/ No power Windows - NO bumpers / NO Bumper Brackets - Panasports So a good bit less stuff, I think the car is lighter then the same chassis setup with a L28et and the Z32 transmission.

Curiosity was killing me so I finally went by a truck stop today and weighed my car. I was a little disappointed but overall I am happy, considering the addtion of the interior with ALOT of soundeadening and jute . I weighed it on one pad, I should have put my front wheels on one and the back wheels on the other but I wasn't thinking about it enough. Ill go back and re-weigh it if I don't corner weigh the car soon. VQ35 Setup: Certified Automated Truck Scale @ Truck Stop Weight: 2480Lbs - 1971 240z - Full tank of gas (~16 gallons) - VQ35DE w/ 6spd transmission - R200 LSD - 300zx CV's - 6 pt Roll Cage - Subframe connectors - TWO layers of brown bread asphalt sound deadening - Corbeau Seats w/ Full Interior - Watanabe's w/ Flares - Fiberglass bumpers

Is that USD? I am interested.

Haha, I knew that...I looked at your location and didnt think it was right. I knew you were an east coaster. Once again me reading to fast. Ill pass on MD , too bad you dont have the car ready for Zdayz!

Thanks for the compliments guys...Ive spent a long time working on the car and It feels good to be at a point where I can (hopefully) enjoy it. DeleriousZ - I Haven't decided what to do with the engine bay. I was planning on blacking everything out like my L28 but I'm afraid it will get pretty busy. Just something Im going to have to think a bit on..I'm not usually one for polished engine bits either but a polished plenum and intake piping would look sharp. Evan - I'm not sure what brand cabinet it is, I bought it off one of my roommates for cheap. I really like it, its a metal cabinet with glass top and good quality gloves. I just need to seal it up a little better and get the light working in it. Cant do without a good sandblaster!! FlatBlack - I'm going to drive the car and enjoy it for a while and then decide what to do with the motor. It may stay the way it is, as I will be in transition with looking for a full time ME job and a house and all that boring real life stuff. I would love to do a nice front mount single turbo setup in the long run. I actually graduate in December finishing my ME degree in 4.5 years with a one year full time co-op. Ryan - Thanks man, I couldn't decided on the carpet at first, but I'm really happy with they way it turned out. Joe - Hey you buy me a plane ticket and ill wire your car (Ive gotten decent at wiring I must say )....I would love a vacation to Cali.

http://mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_240-260-280Z+KA24DE+swap

Hey Guys, Well I got out of school for my last summer of college and finally got some time to "finish" my car up. I wrapped up a lot of the details I had always wanted to get around to but never did. All the electrical is done, and everything works...including the wipers, and power windows! I got my defrost and everything working smoothly as well, wrapped up a lot of loose ends and finally installed the interior. I farmed out the first thing I have ever done on the car and had the carpet put in by a local shop. They covered the shock towers and transmission tunnel for me as well as layed foam down to level the floors with the sub frame connectors. I also installed NOS door panels along with pull handles. The SPAL power windows ended up fitting very nicely. Anyway the only major thing left is making a console to fit the new shifter location. I also washed and waxed it for the first time in two years! I am heading to Zdayz on Thursday and hopefully I will finally get to enjoy the car and put some miles on it! Hopefully some of you guys will be there. But anyway here are the pictures: Lemme know what yall think.

Ive finished the power windows install in my 240z and I am VERY happy with them. They don't weigh much more and the convenience is great...its pretty difficult (and dangerous) to try and grab the passenger window while moving and if you have harnesses its impossible all together w/o pulling over and unbuckling. I thought about power door locks but ultimately decided to leave them off. Number one because to me its not very hard to reach across when you are getting out and pop the lock down if need be. And number two MOST lock systems I have used/seen have not worked very well, although im sure there are some good ones. Regaurdless of what you do IMO the most important thing to keep in mind is keeping the wiring neat and properly installed. There isnt anything that makes me cringe more the hastily and improperly installed electrical accessories. When I installed the power windows in my car I took the dash out and loomed everything up and ran the wires in my harness. Anyhow its your car, do what you like Vintage cars arent all they are made out to be unless you are rich and park them in your garage and drive them every once in a while (Yea ive already got my firesuit on). All in all I think for a street car any added convience is nice.

Jon are you have straight ends on yours or curls?

Thanks for the info. I wont be in Raleigh for a while though. My heater controls have two posts on them, one that the curled end can slide over and then another one that a straight wire can slide in. They are both stock, however the one for straight wire has more mechanical advantage. Ill prolly just chop the ends off.

Nice work, those seats looks really nice in the car...much like the originals but updated.

I was just reading though this thread, as I happened to get a HX35 yesterday. I removed it from my cousins truck as he upgraded to a HY35. As far as the boost thing I can say this for certain. The HX35 runs 26psi STOCK, thats what the factory wastegate is set at and what he ran on his truck without any issues for 100K miles....the turbo still looks perfect without any shaft play. The USED HY35 was in good shape as well. He is going to install a boost controller on the truck, I believe high 30's is common for these turbos on the diesel trucks.

That smell is old vinyl and exhaust fumes lol. Its a common smell for 70's car without catalytic converters.