240hoke

I dont know of any downside of using it on the OEM manifold. I used it to keep temps underhood down, I dont have a heat shield on my intake manifold so it helps out there and in addition to that my to4 b housing is run without a spacer so it is very very close ot hte manifold. Oh and i think its pretty oinojo -- its more of a chainsaw noise lol I posted the video in the nontech board, but ill post it hear again for future reference: http://www4.ncsu.edu/~alhoke/TurboNoises.wmv

My bmw has a vaccum gauge from the factory. They call it a MPG gauge lol. It works in conjuction with the speedo to give you a average miles per gallon readout on the trip comuter. Its pretty nifty on trips, but other then being nifty its pretty worthless, I would rather have a boost gauge

Thanks for the comments guys! I hope to make a camera rig at some point for more stable shot and get a detached mic. I love watching footage on the car fomr the outside but wind noise is horrible. Gabe - I wanna line up with ya at SEZ!!!! Youll prolly put a hurtin on me with them wide turs on thur. el -- i hope you ment change your mind to l28

Awesome times man, kudos! Hope i can run that fast.

Good luck Mike! Hope to see you at SEZ!

Haha difinitly not as fast as i want! Target is 400hp to hte ground on a mustang dyno... definitly not there yet. Gonna have to address drivetrain issues before anything is useful!

Put together a short video of my car. Lots of short clips for those that wanted to hear the wastegate I just installed (wg thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108785) Shes running around 15psi right now, tuned to 12:1 with LM1. Prolly gonna leave her at this level for SEZ, tranny, axles, and tires are already crying. Video: http://www4.ncsu.edu/~alhoke/TurboNoises.wmv Anyway lemme know what yall think!

Ive heard that too, I have had ZERO problems even on a low tank. Fuel pressure is nice, solid and steady

I would be concerned about how fast the switch reacts. Ive been tuning my SDS with my LM1 the last couple days so I can test it out today. Flip it rich during a pull and see how fast it richens up. If in fact it richens quick enough then you could tie the resister and the solinoid into the same circuit and run them both with a WOT switch. Cool I dea for sure, Ive been wanting to go nitrous, this would defiitly be a more affordable way.

Awesome manifold! Very very cool. So much room with RHD

Hey, Im running a generic i/c too, made in china or somewhere over there. Bar and plate made by "turbo xs". I like mine, the welds are beautiful, seems to be good quality. But that only goes for chiwanese intercoolers, anything with moving parts is junk! i/c 24"x12"x4" I had to modify the endtanks to get the i/c to fit, pretty easy to do, just chop the stock spouts off and cut up some aluminum mandrels, i used 2.75" aluminum mandrels as they slide into the outlet great for welding and also fint through the stock air vent holes. I got the i/c for 180 bucks, and then spent about 60 bucks on the mandrels for the outlets.

If you have a infrered thermometer that would be ideal. i believe innovate suggests a 900degree surface temperature. i ended up placing mine about a foot away from the turbo. I have run a lm1 a good bit today and I havent recieved any error messages and everything seems to be kosher. Picture: I redid my downpipe to move them farther away, dont want to risk damage to the sensor.

grind those welds down and powdercoat it, will look like one piece!

Will have more vids by the end of the week

Thanks for the comments guys, took the car out today. Open wastegate is incredible. Ive never heard one before! Wow it screams! Heres a pic of my new downipe, lengthened the space to the bend off the turbo so access was better to the nuts and moved the o2 sensors down a bit:

make friends with your car, now that your old friends are outta the way there is really some time for modification!!! i did the exact oppsite, I moved away and went to college where i dont have many friends, and all my car buddies/old friends stayed in the area after highschool working and what not.. i come home on hte weekend to work on my car and hang with my friends

Hey Guys, There has been lots of talk going around about external wastegates, welding to the factory cast manifold etc etc. I just finished the process of switching over to a TiAL 38mm external gate. I thought I would share what I did. I am running a t3/t04b turbo with a 60-1 compressor wheel, and a stg5 .82 a.r exhaust side. Part used for external gate install: (1) TiAL 38mm wastegate (2) TiAL 38mm w/g flanges (1) Internal w/g block off plate (ATP turbo) (1) Schedule 40 90deg. Pipe from McMaster-Carr (1) 1.5" aluminumized J-bend (1) 3" Doughnut (1) 3" section of 3" aluminized tubing (2) O2 bungs (5) feet of silicon hose (1) V-band Clamp You can add the prices up wherever you find them.. my total came to a little over 400 bucks. I did searching and read about hte proper way to weld cast, the right rod, the preheating to 600, and the slow cooling. But i also searched and talked to people that had had good exprience with welding the stock OEM manifold with mild steel rod and no preheating. I did just that and we will see how long it lasts. I chose to stick the gate under the turbo so i could get a short pipe right off the maifold in the optimum spot, and it also tucks up nice and compact.. Pictures: All laid out: I cut the hole out with a 2" hole saw, worked great, whent marking the hole i put some grease around the pipe and help it where i wanted, leaving a ring to use as a reference. This is the flange from ATP turbo it was 28 bucks. Bolt holes are VERY close to hole, and the pattern wasnt exactly right, I had to drill out the holes one size to fit over the studs. Overall though nice for the price. Doughnut used for DP bends, I had this left over from another project.. Perfect madrel 3" bend, much higher quality then typical dynomax bends from JEG's, which I have had bad exprience with especially the tight radius ones! Mocked up! View from the bottom of the bottom of the car.. mocked up and ready for welding... Welded w/g pipe. Turned the mig up for good penetration throughthe thick metals.. hope it doesnt crack... Heat wrapped and ready to go... My first DP, I welded the 02 bungs too close to the turbo outlet. Ill be tuning with wideband so the sensor needs to be placed about 10" away (around 900 degrees). So ill be redoing... but you get the idea. All bolted up! Im gonna wrap the pipe up too but didnt have the material at the time. Almost back together! This weekend I will be redoing the downpipe, and testing it all out. Also will be getting first impressions on the Competition Clutch Stage 4 6 puck... will give a little write up about it.... Anyway, lemme know what yall think!

LOL nice, I like the second one

Just search for innovate wideband, youll see the price is slashed. There is also clearence section on the site. Im pretty sure they are all gone now though.

Looking awesome man!, Got alot of neat stuff, wish i had that set of cv axles!

Thanks alot guys hopefully next week Ill have some time to work on this

Hey guys, Im working on designing a turbo header in solidworks, just messing around at school. Was wondering if anybody already had the flange deminsions laid out, maybe a technical drawing they had sent out to get flanges made etc. Also for those of you that have made headers, I was wondering what the options were for switching over from square port to round port. I assume you could transtion a thick flange or machine one end of the tubes. Is the P90 the best thing to use, perhaps a round port head? Anyway the idea right now (long way off) if to draw up the header in solid works and then have teh flanges laser cutt, and see how much it would run to have the tubes CNC mandrel bent -Austin

I might be selling mine I need wider meat under my car. Mine have 300 miles on them though so I owuld be asking around 1K. My biggest issue with getting rid of them is the tires, they are 900 dollar bfg kd's , eeeeeeekkkk! Ill prolly run wear these tires out (SEZ???? what??) And then sell the wheels.

The wheels on alex's car are wantanbes 16x8 front and 16x9.5 rear. They can only be ordered out of Japan and are not reproduction wheels! Very expensive I believe around 2200 for a set. I believe Quoc (240zMaster) can get you a set now. The wheels on my car are Panasports, a classic american racing wheel -- They are very simlilar to the English Minilites, not sure who came first. They have been around for a very long time. Look to Classic Datsun for a set of panasports -- they many times have them in stock and are very good people to work with. A full set of panasports with caps, and stems will run you about 1200 bucks. They come in a 16x7. MSA sells them too, but you never know whats gonna happen when you deal with them. Both those wheels are availible in 4 lug, in the correct offset etc. The konig rewinds were mentioned but I dont think your gonna be able to fit a serious set of brakes behind those since they are only in 15's. However they are much more affordable!

I second ATP they have a good selection, good prices, and i always get all my stuff quite quickly. The only time they have been out of stock on a connector was for a 2.5" straight piece -- they upgraded me to a hump connector for free instead of backordering, but called to be sure it was okay. I recommend buying t-bolts to -- definitly worth the investment.